Tko bellhousing

OK. So the boxes are starting to roll in and the my new coyote motor arrived, but I have yet to purchase a transmission. I was thinking a TKO600 is my future, but what bell housing for my MKIV? I see a lot of people using QuickTime instead of the recommendation of the FFR site. Any reason why? The SFI type I read does not fit without cutting, so the QuickTime housing is not SFI rated. I am using the Wilwood pedal box and plan to use a hyd. Clutch if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance and I apologize if this has been covered already. I will need to get better with the forum search, as I did not see anything come up.

I used the QuickTime RM-6080 bell for my Coyote/TKO Roadster build. You're right, it's not SFI rated. But it's still significantly stronger than a stock aluminum bell. Is it necessary? For my street use, very likely not. But if you shop around, it's only a $100 -$150 upcharge from the aluminum piece, so I went with it. Mike Forte's hydraulic clutch setup with the Ford Performance M-7515-A clutch fork fit well. If you use a Moroso pan for your Coyote, you'll find even this bell housing sits slightly below the pan. About 1/4-inch along the bottom flange. Although probably not necessary, I trimmed it so it was even with the pan. Lots of pictures in my build thread. Link in my sig line.

Edwardb thanks for the response. I have been following your build and it is an awesome resource.

Just I found an aluminum bell housing with all accessories for $300, but the QuickTime is around $600 or $700, so I was trying to figure out if it worth the extra $$$. How they fit or easy of maintenance or any bonus to a different bell housing. I want a quality build, but still want to save where it makes the most sense.

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Originally Posted by unrealmach1

Edwardb thanks for the response. I have been following your build and it is an awesome resource.

Just I found an aluminum bell housing with all accessories for $300, but the QuickTime is around $600 or $700, so I was trying to figure out if it worth the extra $$$. How they fit or easy of maintenance or any bonus to a different bell housing. I want a quality build, but still want to save where it makes the most sense.

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Yea, I hear you. That's a good price for the aluminum bell. The eBay seller I bought my RM-6080 from for $509 last October is now selling them for $639. Ouch.

What kind of bell housing are you using and what came with it.Thanks

Just I found an aluminum bell housing with all accessories for $300, but the QuickTime is around $600 or $700, so I was trying to figure out if it worth the extra $$$. How they fit or easy of maintenance or any bonus to a different bell housing. I want a quality build, but still want to save where it makes the most sense.[/QUOTE]

I am planning on a TKO600 Trans, but they don't include a bell housing. The kit instructions suggest a standard Ford aluminum bell housing PN M-6392-M46, but I have seen several people choosing to use a different steel bell housing. I believe edwardb is using a QuickTime PN- RM6080 bell housing per his about post. I have yet to choose a bell housing for my build, but I am kind of leaning towards the recommended Ford bell housing because of cost and the sandwich plate does not require the flywheel to be removed.

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Originally Posted by unrealmach1

I am planning on a TKO600 Trans, but they don't include a bell housing. The kit instructions suggest a standard Ford aluminum bell housing PN M-6392-M46, but I have seen several people choosing to use a different steel bell housing. I believe edwardb is using a QuickTime PN- RM6080 bell housing per his about post. I have yet to choose a bell housing for my build, but I am kind of leaning towards the recommended Ford bell housing because of cost and the sandwich plate does not require the flywheel to be removed.

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The roughly $200 difference between the aluminum and steel bell is certainly a decision factor. But I'd recommend not making the decision based on the flywheel removal and replace. It's easy to do. Certainly no harder than many of the other steps required to build one of these. The holes are indexed so it can only go back one way. Some have voiced concern about the crank sensor that's behind the flywheel, but it too is indexed and doesn't need to be disturbed.

True, the flywheel easy to remove and reinstall. I was more concerned with the 2 year warranty provided on the crate motor. But I guess if I am pulling the oil pan then the flywheel would be pretty minor infraction.

I just got my Coyote Engine and Tremec TKO-600 tranny. I ordered a "Quicktime" Bell housing with it. I got the SFI version, #6081. Will this fit? Does it require some modification? If so, what, and how difficult is it? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Jazzman

I just got my Coyote Engine and Tremec TKO-600 tranny. I ordered a "Quicktime" Bell housing with it. I got the SFI version, #6081. Will this fit? Does it require some modification? If so, what, and how difficult is it? Thanks.

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I personally haven't used the SFI version. But my understanding is the bottom flange extends significantly below the 4-inch chassis tubes so must be trimmed. Also I understand there is possible interference with one of the diagonal braces in the engine compartment. I did end up trimming about 3/16-inch of the bottom of the non-SFI RM6080 so it was exactly the same depth as the oil pan, but it was pretty minor and could have been left alone. Everything else fit fine. You may want to consider switching to the RM6080.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unrealmach1

I am planning on a TKO600 Trans, but they don't include a bell housing. The kit instructions suggest a standard Ford aluminum bell housing PN M-6392-M46, but I have seen several people choosing to use a different steel bell housing. I believe edwardb is using a QuickTime PN- RM6080 bell housing per his about post. I have yet to choose a bell housing for my build, but I am kind of leaning towards the recommended Ford bell housing because of cost and the sandwich plate does not require the flywheel to be removed.

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I was searching the forum to determine if anyone else has an issue with the M-6392-M46 rubbing the ring gear. I have this set up. If you try to align the bell housing without the sandwich plate there is hard contact. With the sandwich plate it slightly rubs. I can of course take care of this, but I'm surprised that this is happening hence I am here searching the forum. Even though it looks as if the sandwich plate will install without removing the flywheel, it will not. I would like to correct that last sentence, it will go one with a technique that is not obvious. I'm not even sure if I can subscribe the method, I discovered this when it almost fell off by itself.

Furthermore, I have also discovered that the the crankshaft and bellhousing are not concentric by approximately 0.009". I spoke with Tremec and confirmed that they want the centerline of the Crankshaft and centerline of the bellhousing/trans within 0.005". Tremec was not helpful in helping locate dowel pins. I found 0.014 and 0.021 offset dowels for the Ford modular on Summit's site. The 0.007 that I needed did not show up. To make a long story short, they were there, but the description was lacking so the search did not find them.

I called the Ford Racing hotline, the person I spoke to had never had anyone inquire, but he was very interested, and they actually got back with me quickly with a source.

QuickTime part numbers are RM-140 (0.007), RM-141 (0.014), and RM-142 (0.021), these can be ordered from Summit. Modern Driveline also has these offset pins, and the person I spoke to seemed very knowledgeable. I was not happy with the response I got from Tremec, all the machined holes are not lined up well with the casting features. I checked the tolerance of the dowel holes from the centerline of the crank, they are not to exceed 0.08mm which is 0.003". If my block is at the end of it's tolerance, the the bellhousing is out another 0.006. In reality, it's probably more, but I don't have any equipment to prove that. OK, I'll quit complaining. Hopefully when my pins arrive, I will get this dialed in.

American Powertrain has a nice video on You Tube https://youtu.be/vO9f4FhK13U . Note that is the video he does not divide the difference in measurements by two, but he compensates by saying that a 0.007 pin will move the bellhousing 0.014. It is more straightforward for me to divide the measurement differences by two, but his method does work. The main thing I liked was seeing how he set up the dial indicator. You will figure out what I mean if you watch the video and think about it. I measured mine four times just to make sure, unbolting the bellhousing and reseting the dial indicator just to make sure I wasn't being fooled by my own inexperienced measurement technique.

I made a quick video of a hydraulic technique to remove the Coyote dowel pins. Note they are hollow, and basically can not be driven out from the back side of the bore. I did not invent this, but basically copied it from someone else. https://youtu.be/i4bRhsua4rg available are 0.500" (Ford pushrod?), and GM 0.625". I think the Coyote is 0.630" or 16mm, I have emailed an engineer I know that works on Ford V8 to see if I can verify from a Ford drawing. Quicktime may sell some proper Coyote pins in 0.014 and 0.021 offset, butI need 0.007 offset. This seems to have quickly become a mess. I will remeasure this again today and see if I get similar results.

Tee salmon,

I had the exact same issues with my quick time bell housing, I could not get the correct offset dowel pins, in the end I ended up machining my own dowels with the correct offset. So the moral to the story is the quick time housings are no better than the ford/tremec ones.