A little Brake line QA please

I just ran my roadster brake lines and since this is my first time ever with flaring, bending and routing, I'd like to get some quick feedback. I'm mostly concerned that I didn't paint myself into a corner with the aluminum panels that go on later. The book was a little vague with routing and everybody's build thread is a bit different.

I posted a quick 2 minute video on YouTube of the lines. https://youtu.be/1MV_xzodmR8

So, if you see any issues with them being in the wrong place or will be in the way of any future assemblies, please let me know. I'll wait a bit before putting in the brake fluid.

The lines are only tie wrapped for now, I'll use the fasteners when I'm comfortable with the routing and after filling and bleeding and leaks fixed.

Thanks!

You're in the clear. No issues.

Looks like you're good to go from a routing standpoint.

:)

Hi dmoran, just one minor point, if you are going to use a front battery mount you may want route in the front of the X bar instead of the back. You may have interference with the battery or in my case the negitive terminal. If you are using the trunk mount no worries. This is my setup.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1463870822

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MillerCobra

Hi dmoran, just one minor point, if you are going to use a front battery mount you may want route in the front of the X bar instead of the back.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...4&d=1463870822

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DOH - yeah - I plan to to use the breeze front mount. Thanks!

I'm not a big fan of all the loops, but that's more of a personal opinion. No reason to change them. I didn't think to ask about the front battery mount. If so, yes, the front crossover brake line needs to be on the other side of the X-member.

The one slight issue I see is the rear brake line you have coming down the inside of the DS footbox. It will need to get from the inside of the footbox to the outside to go down the 4 inch chassis tube. Since you already have both ends connected, you will (I guess) need to cut a slot in the floor piece to get the brake line from inside to outside, and then fill with a small piece. Note the floor piece intersects the 4 inch tube right about in the middle. So the brake line needs to be below that. I mounted the floor piece first, routed the brake line tube as high as I could on the 4 inch tube against the bottom of the floor, through a hole near the front, and then routed up and connected to the master cylinder.

Everything else looks like it will clear. Personally, I prefer to mount the aluminum panels first with clecos, then determine the best routing for fuel, brake, and electric harness. Removing panels as needed to gain clearance for fab and mounting. But not everyone does it that way. Just happens to be my approach.

from another forum...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...96165bbeec.jpg

LOL - Forgot the nut on my first flair. And the whole time I was saying "Don't forget the nut, don't forget the nut..."

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Originally Posted by edwardb

The one slight issue I see is the rear brake line you have coming down the inside of the DS footbox. It will need to get from the inside of the footbox to the outside to go down the 4 inch chassis tube. Since you already have both ends connected, you will (I guess) need to cut a slot in the floor piece to get the brake line from inside to outside, and then fill with a small piece.

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Yeah, planning to cut a notch. The one was in the book and seemed a straight forward route.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Everything else looks like it will clear. Personally, I prefer to mount the aluminum panels first with clecos, then determine the best routing for fuel, brake, and electric harness. Removing panels as needed to gain clearance for fab and mounting. But not everyone does it that way. Just happens to be my approach.

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Good idea. I will try that for running the fuel and electrical. It will take a lot of the guessing out for sure.

When you move the tube to the front of the X tube, remember that is a good place for wiring too. It looks so much better to have all that stuff somewhat hidden. Using adel clamps you could arrange it so one screw or rivet holds two clamps, one on each side of the fastener.
http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-404172-E...ds=adel+clamps
You can get the more common version where the insulator looks to be a dipped style at most hardware stores.

My only couple of observations, turn your front wheels lock to lock, it looks like your flex line might hit a tire.

Second observation, there is a nice tool for straightening lines.
Attachment 54193
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-han...FYkCaQodPGcN-w

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Originally Posted by 6t8dart

Second observation, there is a nice tool for straightening lines.
Attachment 54193
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-han...FYkCaQodPGcN-w

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6t8dart, I have been looking at this option, have you used it on coil tubing and does it work as well as advertised??

thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 6t8dart

My only couple of observations, turn your front wheels lock to lock, it looks like your flex line might hit a tire.

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I checked and it was close - so I adjusted the banjo and now have good clearance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 6t8dart

Second observation, there is a nice tool for straightening lines.

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I just ordered one to use with my fuel lines, I'll report on how well it works.

Thanks!
Doug

I moved the front crossover line to go in front of the "X" member to give room for the Breeze battery box - Thanks MillerCobra

Attachment 54495

I really didn't like the way the front "T" fitting, which is more like an "L", forced a loop into the front crossover line. I ordered a real "T" for the DS and a 90 for the PS and was able to get rid of the loops and keep everything straight. With the front routing and the straight fittings, I'm much happier with the clean look. Thanks edwardb for the nudge over the fence :-)

Attachment 54496Attachment 54497

Although I do like the loops coming off the MCs

Attachment 54498

Doug

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dnew

6t8dart, I have been looking at this option, have you used it on coil tubing and does it work as well as advertised??

thanks

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No, when I did it, I used the rolling the tubing on a clean smooth floor method in my house. This tool works better, I saw it used before and was amazed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoeT

from another forum...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...96165bbeec.jpg

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I want to get a poster made of this flair qoute for my workshop. I find it humorous every time I see it.