How I installed power steering

818 Power steering
Here is how I connected my power steering.
A couple of unique items on my car may cause you to make other choices but this write up should provide you with an overview of what can be done.

First, My engine is JDM. The right hand drive may have placed my power steering pump on the opposite side from what is found on engines made for the US domestic market. My power steering rack is from a standard US (left hand drive) wagon.

The Power steering rack – I used the OEM rigid lines that were mounted to the power steering rack and pinion. These steel lines have the same fittings on both ends. For the high pressure side I used the opposite end to mate with the power steering unit. The pre bent shape on the opposite end was closer to what I wanted so I used it. I mounted this steel line parallel to the 45 degree chassis support tube. At the upper end of this pipe is a 90 degree bend. I had my local hydraulic shop braze on a standard jic type hydraulic fitting here. The OEM Subaru hydraulic fitting is unique to Subaru. You will need to use the OEM type fitting at the power steering unit then switch over to a more common US style of fitting. Be sure to install new “O” ring seals on the OEM fittings. The pump has a banjo type fitting with copper washers. See PS1.jpg

At the upper end of the high pressure pipe I purchased and installed several fittings. Jic male flare fitting - 90 degrees ell and then another male Jic fitting. Having 2each 90 degree bends gives me lots of flexibility when it comes to lining up the next steel pipe. I choose to use steel pipe traveling from the front to the rear of the car. It takes up less space, looks cleaner (oem), I am expecting it to radiate heat better than rubber hose, plus it will last forever. Also the standard industrial hydraulic hose is much thicker than automotive grade power steering hose. It would be bulky to use in both directions. I have highlighted the route I took choosing to follow the radiator tube out the front and along the passenger side. Red for high pressure and blue for the return line. Once the tube is behind the door I angled it up to a final position secured onto the vertical tube of the firewall. See PS4.jpg
Continuing with the high pressure line, I flared the end of my steel line then connected it to my rubber hose (allowing for engine vibration). The other end of this hose is connected to the OEM steel pipe with its banjo fitting. Again I had the hydraulic shop braze on a jic fitting to mate with the fitting on my flex hose.

Low pressure return line - The return line is one size larger than the high pressure line to minimize any back pressure as the fluid travels the distance. I kept this line low on the chassis and followed the high pressure line and radiator tube to the rear of the car. Use clamps as needed to secure each line in place.
I used the OEM power steering reservoir & mounting bracket. I had to mount it onto a 1” tall spacer making room for the suspension. This tank is lower than the pump which generally is not good practice however, I reviewed the OEM setup and it too was lower in the car than the pump. Lines in and out of the reservoir can be connected by hose clamp as there is no pressure here.

Special considerations: I used my newly formed tube bending skills (remember the brake & clutch lines?) to form the bends needed on this system. My brake bending tool was not sturdy enough for the heavier gauge steel hydraulic line. To make these bends I used a tube bending spring and a 1” round aluminum bar. The bar provides a single point for the bend with a minimum radius. The spring prevents the tube from collapsing. A proper tube bending spring will be made of thick gauge wire, wound tightly. It should just fit over the tube O.D. I suggest purchasing a spare piece of tubing to practice your bending technique. This material will require more force to bend than the brake lines.

Same idea with flaring the ends of your tube. Practice a few times before working on your final part. I found our local parts store will loan out (yes, for free) special tools like the flaring tool and for brake lines the double flare tool.

Purge the lines - After cutting and flaring the ends there will be metal shavings. Assume that these have made their way into your tube. Before my first start of the engine I filled the reservoir with fluid then unscrewed the high pressure line at the power steering rack. After starting the engine it took about 3 seconds to drain the tank. Fill and repeat until a significant amount of fluid has exited the tube flushing out any debris. Reconnect the high pressure line at the power steering and disconnect the return line just before it enters the reservoir tank. Of course you need to cap off the tank so you can fill it up. Again, flush out this line until you are comfortable that all of the contaminates are gone. A few contaminate particles could ruin all your efforts. Close the loop and fill the tank again. Run the engine, turning the steering wheel lock to lock 5-10 times. Refill the tank when needed.

Draw up your plumbing on a piece of paper. Call out each fitting size and shape. Simple flare fittings work great for the end of steel lines. Make sure you obtain the matching male fitting where it connects to the next piece. I found shopping on line was easier than over the counter. On-line stores have a wider selection and some unusual sizes, shapes, or adapters. If you can locate automotive grade power steering hose and fittings and a shop to crimp on the fittings then this could be less work than bending steel pipe. For those who have plenty of money to spend look at the aircraft fittings and hose.
It remains to be seen if an oil cooler will be beneficial. These lines do get hot. It’s just one more thing to gauge and get right before traveling very far.

Enjoy the ride or racing whichever direction you’re headed.
Attachment 52142
Attachment 52144
Attachment 52143
Attachment 52145
Attachment 52146
Attachment 52147
Attachment 52148