7216 has a roll bar.. not that I want to use it as such....

After some pondering the original look or what I felt I wanted for the car to be mine I went with the full width bar. If I have to roll over I want a smooth continuous event without the double hump bump. Safety police be warned, yes its lower than standard. That's also is to look more correct in my mind. I'm paying the bill so I can do it to suit myself. A full bar also adds some protection from a rear impact from a higher vehicle. So I'm not without some safety concerns. I don't plan to race it so it is what it is.

Anybody know a good chrome shop in the central NC area?

looks great , the ffr ones are paperclip strength, thay'll actually work...............Steven

Are you making the down tubes removable ? If not, how are you fitting body on ?

Kenny

Ooo yes it installs exactly the same as FFR does the dual humpty bumps. The right side mount bolts in exactly the same way in the FFR holes. If you look hard at the photo youy can see the difference in the tubes. I've had it togeather and apart several times sanding out the tubes to make sure its a nice slip fit later on. I hope the chrome doesn't build up to much and effect the fit. I may have to sand out the tubes again if it does.

Looks like one I worked on a while back.

As far as the chrome goes, just make sure you tell the plater and they will make as to not build up on the stubs. Find a local metal polisher and see if they have a chrome shop they work with., Most of the cost in chrome is the polishing, bet you'll get a better price. I pay about $250 per each full roll bar for chrome, you should be able to find a place to do it for about the same price. Looks good!

3kcarbon,

At what height did you set the roll bar, from the top of the chassis to the top (or bottom) of the horizontal section of the bar? What is the angle that the roll bar legs are from vertical?

I'm also doing a full width roll bar.

Thanks, Rick.

Rick, I can tell you the stock measurements. 3K cut down his hoop so his measurements are a bit different. The roll bar height if you were to stand it up 90* from the floor is 24" to the top of the bar. The stubs are fish mouth cut at 18* from 90*. The kit made for 3k was just the hoop and raw parts ready for him to cut to his own height and weld in.

I got another MK 4 owner to do some measurements for me and rounded up information from other cars. Keep in mind the angle the windshield is set at effects the difference between roll bar height and windshield height. I am not planning to race the car so the 2" over the helmet inspection is a moot point. I was trying to get the bar level or just slightly lower than the windshield. Measurements off another completed Mk $ showed the windshield to be 2.25 below the bar. I wanted to be in that range and went with 21" which is 3" below standard (24") which is .75 lower than the windshield at the angle the car used for the measurments. Not super low like a West Coast car but more in line with the times the car comes from. Not a big difference but noticeable and a more natural look at least to me. It wasn't just about the bar looking right to me but I want to do a hard top like the Dragon Snake cars had back in the golden age of Chicken Ranchers. The condo addition on the double hump bump tops isn't too original looking. Nothing is wrong if its your car and its what you want but the high top isn't for me. There are good reasons for a tall bar but I think a full 2" bar is still safer than a single 1.5 car even if its lower.

Thanks for the info guys.

I'll shoot for 24" above the upper trunk floor to the top of the roll bar and adjust down from there if it needs to be tweeked to match my Top.

I have a 6 degree list to the rear that seems to be what the factory put in for the driver side roll bar. I sold that part so I didn't have anything to judge height from.

Regards, Rick.