Factory Five Forums - Roadster https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/ en Sat, 02 May 2026 12:55:34 GMT vBulletin 10 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/misc/rss.png Factory Five Forums - Roadster https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/ Roadster radiator question https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53577-Roadster-radiator-question&goto=newpost Thu, 30 Apr 2026 00:26:47 GMT Just replacing a two year old rad, that seems to have a small leak. Ordered a new one from factory fave and it just came in. Question is the new one... Just replacing a two year old rad, that seems to have a small leak. Ordered a new one from factory fave and it just came in. Question is the new one has the same angled top tube but the bottom comes out at a straight shot from the bottom, is this a new setup or did I get the wrong rad. The outside of the box says roadster . Just looking for input. If this is the new setup is there any tricks ideas to help reroute the lower hose for a 302 engine .

Thanks ]]> Roadster Bellecobra https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53577-Roadster-radiator-question Upgraded Louver Install. https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53575-Upgraded-Louver-Install&goto=newpost Wed, 29 Apr 2026 19:13:09 GMT I wanted to install my louvers without a rivet showing, so I took this route. Stole this idea from another member here and I apologize for not... I wanted to install my louvers without a rivet showing, so I took this route. Stole this idea from another member here and I apologize for not remembering the user name. So credit goes to the unknown member that got me started down this path.

I contemplated using the epoxied studs on the body, but ended up using industrial velcro. I measured the thickness of the velcro to give me an idea of how much gap to have on the backside.
20260429_120021.jpg
This is the stuff I'm using. Once stuck to the body, it felt very secure.

I then started bending the tabs up on the louver.
20260306_170916.jpg

Once I had all the tabs bent up, I was able to create a template for the L bracket.
20260306_172721.jpg20260306_171035.jpg

From there, I just transferred the template to the L bracket and ground slots where marked.
20260306_173805.jpg20260306_172919.jpg

A little trimming and the L bracket sits on the louver quite nicely. Then just bend the tabs back down.
20260306_175013.jpg20260306_174726.jpg

I had even 3d printed a gauge for the thickness of the velcro. It's off by about .008, so don't rely on that for an accurate.
20260306_175057.jpg

Hope this gives some options for people. You could still use the studs epoxied to the body this way. This just makes it so you don't have to rivet the L bracket on.
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]]> Roadster Wizbangdoodle https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53575-Upgraded-Louver-Install T45 pops out of 2nd gear https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53574-T45-pops-out-of-2nd-gear&goto=newpost Wed, 29 Apr 2026 05:11:42 GMT Hello Gentlemen, My MK4 is a donor build (circa 2015 with a 98 Mustang GT donor) 4.6 2v with T45 five speed transmission. As my car is in body... Hello Gentlemen,
My MK4 is a donor build (circa 2015 with a 98 Mustang GT donor)
4.6 2v with T45 five speed transmission.
As my car is in body shop jail, body off now after body work and almost ready for paint I brought the chassis home for cleaning, wire tidy up, etc.
I drove the car 5000 miles in gel coat before taking it to body shop and never having driven the Mustang as it was a crashed car I discovered that the transmission would pop out of 2nd gear while cruising or decelerating if I hit a small bump (or big bump).
Does the forward slanting shifter handle play much of a part in this?
It stays in gear fine under throttle.
If transmission is in need of parts now is the time.
Any insight into this situation is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Dave ]]> Roadster Duke66 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53574-T45-pops-out-of-2nd-gear Mythical art of plug reading (help needed) https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53570-Mythical-art-of-plug-reading-(help-needed)&goto=newpost Tue, 28 Apr 2026 20:38:09 GMT Hello Peeps!
Since it's a rainy day here I decide the next things to start looking into is to see what the plugs are telling me about the running condition of the car. It's been about 20-30km and not much driving since I've started to adjust the carbs and moved the vacuum advance to port vs timed (i.e. more timing at idle). The car was definitely running rich before, and is probably still rich but less so now. I only did 2 plugs for now just to see what I find, will probably pull the rest later.

Car has around 9300km at this point, plug likely have been in since rebuild.

Here's what Cylinder one plug looks like:
cyl 1 042826.jpg

And cylinder 5
cyl 5 042826.jpg
cyl 5 042826 - 2.jpg

Gap is at .35 (a little low isn't it?) and its a NGK Vpower R5671A-8.

What I'm seeing is:
1. Running rich (carbon build up)
2. Some carbon build up on the electrodes, especially Cyl 5 on the case of the side electrode

I don't have enough run time on the "new tune" to see if its leaned out yet, but looks to me like the plugs are too cold? Would appreciate your opinion!
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]]> Roadster Kivyee https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53570-Mythical-art-of-plug-reading-(help-needed) Longer Brass Nuts for sidpipe mounting (?) https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53569-Longer-Brass-Nuts-for-sidpipe-mounting-(-)&goto=newpost Tue, 28 Apr 2026 18:19:05 GMT I'd like to replace my existing 3/8" Brass Nuts next time I remove the sidepipes.
I've had the longer nuts and prefer them, but can't remember where I purchased them from. I've seen the shorter Dorman nuts, but can't find the longer ones now.

Can anyone tell me where they got them from?

Thanks! ]]> Roadster MPTech https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53569-Longer-Brass-Nuts-for-sidpipe-mounting-(-) Windshield wiper wheel box locations with firewall forward https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53567-Windshield-wiper-wheel-box-locations-with-firewall-forward&goto=newpost Tue, 28 Apr 2026 14:03:48 GMT Hello all Creeping up on getting to the State patrol office for my VIN inspection here in Colorado. One of the last few steps I have is to mount... Hello all

Creeping up on getting to the State patrol office for my VIN inspection here in Colorado. One of the last few steps I have is to mount the wiper wheel boxes. I went with the specialty windows unit, and I installed a firewall forward in my Mk4. I wanted to see if the locations of the wheel boxes needs to be changed at all? Sounds like it might be the better/easier answer to have the cable run to the front/hood side of the engine bay rather than towards the firewall? All input appreciated!

Thanks ]]> Roadster Rian_Colorado https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53567-Windshield-wiper-wheel-box-locations-with-firewall-forward Need Wide Band A/F Gauge Advice https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53566-Need-Wide-Band-A-F-Gauge-Advice&goto=newpost Tue, 28 Apr 2026 12:23:05 GMT .
I'm running a 427W with Holley 750 double pumper. I wanted a "stand alone" air/fuel meter to aid with tuning. I installed an analog-style (NOS brand) meter along with a Bosch LSU 4.9 O2 sensor which came with the kit. I am NOT impressed with the gauge. (Yes, it is installed correctly). It works sometimes....but not other times. Sometimes, under a steady load, rpm, and throttle position the needle will jump around quite a bit (for example, from back and forth from 13.0 to 19.0 rapidly).
.
1) I've decided I want to change out the gauge and I am looking for recommendations for a better gauge. I would prefer analog style if possible as I find it easier to read at a glance while driving.
.
2) I'm wondering about the plug connection for the Bosch 4.9 sensor. My question is: Is this connection a universal connection? If so, I would only need to buy a gauge and plug it in the the sensor I already have. This would lower my cost as I would not have to buy a complete kit. For some reason, I am thinking all Bosch 4.9 sensors have the same plug.
.
Thanks for any help. ]]> Roadster ProfessorB https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53566-Need-Wide-Band-A-F-Gauge-Advice First attempt at a somewhat authentic glove box door https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53565-First-attempt-at-a-somewhat-authentic-glove-box-door&goto=newpost Tue, 28 Apr 2026 02:16:17 GMT I have been going back and forth as to whether or not to add a glove box. Finally, I decided to try to build the door and if it turned out... I have been going back and forth as to whether or not to add a glove box. Finally, I decided to try to build the door and if it turned out reasonably well then I would move forward with the glove box project. Below is a picture of my first attempt at building the door... I cut a total of six pieces of aluminum, so I actually have enough aluminum to make two more should this one not be satisfactory once completed.

I moved the fuse box to the right side of the car so there is not much room behind the dashboard where the glove box is located. The glove box will only be about an inch deep. A buddy of mine is going to 3D print the box itself. I looked at this project as the door and hinge being the difficult portion... if I can pull that off then my buddy can design the box to work with the door.

Cobra glove box door 3.jpg
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]]> Roadster StangRacer https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53565-First-attempt-at-a-somewhat-authentic-glove-box-door Do I follow the manual or what experienced builder are doing? https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53559-Do-I-follow-the-manual-or-what-experienced-builder-are-doing&goto=newpost Mon, 27 Apr 2026 18:13:02 GMT Here’s our dilemma. I say ‘our’ because there are two of us building roadsters side by side out of one garage. We assumed we would install the... Here’s our dilemma. I say ‘our’ because there are two of us building roadsters side by side out of one garage. We assumed we would install the windshield as the manual says before starting to fit and gap doors and lids. The concerns we have are as follows.
Most of the info here and elsewhere discuss the MK4 and we have MK5 cars. As far as fitting things are there truly important differences between the two models?
With the bodies sitting on the chassis as delivered by Factory Five Racing and the windshields in place with the strut holes clearanced as needed should there be weather stripping in place on the aluminum at the dash and in back of where the seats will be? We figure weather stripping should be at least partially in place for the trunks and hoods.
Really want to fit the doors and lids and get the bodies of to the body work guys while we carry on with the rest of the cars. Are we potentially setting ourselves up for trouble if we don’t wait until the car is nearly built?
Thanks for any advice. ]]> Roadster Slideways https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53559-Do-I-follow-the-manual-or-what-experienced-builder-are-doing Happy 4/27 Day! https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53558-Happy-4-27-Day!&goto=newpost Mon, 27 Apr 2026 14:55:23 GMT Just wishing everyone a Happy 427 day today! Just wishing everyone a Happy 427 day today! ]]> Roadster BamaFord https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53558-Happy-4-27-Day! spongy brakes, pedal goes to floor https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53557-spongy-brakes-pedal-goes-to-floor&goto=newpost Mon, 27 Apr 2026 02:34:15 GMT I'm having a big problem with my brakes. The pedal is soft/squishy, and slowly sinks to the floor.
What I've read on the internet is that soft/squishy brakes is usually caused by air in the lines. But a pedal that sinks to the floor is caused by a bad master cylinder or a leak.
I am using the 4 stock mustang calipers that came off my donor 1996 GT. It has two piston PBR's in the front. This spring I bought powerstop Z26 pads, which are supposed to have higher friction. I thought they might be better than the stock pads I bought at auto zone when I built the car 10 years ago.
First problem. I could not retract/turn the rear caliper pistons into the calipers, probably because they were 30 years old. I bought 2 new rear calipers at autozone. I added new DOT 3 brake fluid (that I bought last month) ,and bled all four calipers. I was careful not to let the fluid level in the reservoir get too low. I "adjusted" for the parking brake by pulling the lever about 10 times (which is how I've read you're supposed to adjust it.) I could not get a firm pedal, and it would sink to the floor.
My research on the internet led me to believe that the master cylinder had an internal leak. I purchased a new Dorman master cylinder (M39637 for an 87-93 mustang), which is what factory five told me to use when I first built the car. I bench bled the MC, following the instructions in the box, installed it, then bled all four calipers. No change; it's still soft, and sinks to the floor.
I don't see any fluid leaks. there are no bubbles when I bleed the brakes. I've used almost a full quart of new brake fluid.
What am I missing? Could the new rear calipers or the new MC be bad? Could there be something wrong with the new carquest brand fluid?
Thanks for your input. ]]> Roadster Joel Hauser https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53557-spongy-brakes-pedal-goes-to-floor Fun with Carbs https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53556-Fun-with-Carbs&goto=newpost Sun, 26 Apr 2026 17:38:46 GMT Being a carb neophyte, it's taken quite a bit of research on getting up to speed on what's needed to set-up a carb properly and then to actually tune it. (@mike.bray you probably wouldn't want to read this ;))

To start with, this is a MkIV with a rebuilt 302 (306), with Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb (600cfm) w electric choke, Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake, No-name Aluminum heads (**Maybe Promaxx), roller rockers, Magnum Hydraulic Roller Camshafts 35-440-8 (110 lobe separation, 281 duration, .512 lift), and finally out to BBS long tube headers and standard FFR sidepipes. I bought the car built and the PO basically handed the engine to an engine builder and asked for a rebuild to 350hp, he doesn't remember exactly what the internals are but I'm assuming they are probably stock ford stuff since 350hp isn't really "forged internals" territory.

The cams are pretty aggressive, so the car has a very distinct lope and slightly rough idle. When I first got the car in December, I had to adjust the choke to richen up quite a bit for it to run.

Fast forward to this week when the weather was finally nice (dry) enough for me to make the 45min trip to the mechanics for the mandatory out-of-province inspection prior to getting it registered and insured, the car was running mega rich on cold start and idle, then would be fine after about 5 minutes of warm up. It finally occurred to me that I needed to adjust the choke for the warmer weather and voila, cold starts no longer sting my eyes.

Then I discovered that the car would bog/hesitate momentarily if I depress the loud pedal quickly. It's a relatively new discovery thanks to wearing in of my new Nitto NT05s and warmer weather. More research and shifted the accelerator pump linkage for "faster action". Boom, instant transition to acceleration on WOT.

The car would also burble and pop something fierce on downshifts (overrun), which I kind of liked but which also told me too much fuel was making it past where it was supposed to be burned, leading me down another rabbit hole. I know in EFIs you can actually tune for that by retarding timing when the throttle plate is closed and RPMs are above idle, so I looked into that and discovered the wonderful world of "ported vs manifold vacuum for timing advance" debate. I verified that my distributor vacuum canister was hooked into ported vacuum, swapped it for manifold vacuum (more timing at idle, off idle), readjusted idle mixture/idle speed back to 800rpm (was high right after the swap), and boom, smoother idle (I do miss the crazy lope), and no more crazy popping on decel (I miss that a little too).

So now we are FINALLY ready for actually tuning the carb, which I will take slowly as the engine actually runs very well right now. Between playing with the timing curve and the carb jetting sounds like I will have tonnes of teeny tiny parts to play with and drop into the bowels of the engine bay - fun times ahead. :eek::cool: ]]> Roadster Kivyee https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53556-Fun-with-Carbs MK5 Blueprint 347 Canton T-sump and 4R70W does not fit https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53553-MK5-Blueprint-347-Canton-T-sump-and-4R70W-does-not-fit&goto=newpost Sat, 25 Apr 2026 23:44:39 GMT Anyone else trying to get a Blueprint 347 with 4R70W transmission into the new MK5 frame? I've got two big problems.
1) The Canton 15-610 Front T sump oil pan will not clear the angled cross bracing in the front of the frame.
2) The rear pan on the 4R70W will not clear the transmission mount tabs welded to the frame in the rear.

For the oil pan, I guess I could change the oil pan to a non-T design, but this is a new engine bought along with my MK5 kit, so I would think the parts supplied by the two manufacturers should work together.

For the 4R70W clearance, it looks like I need to cut off the forward carriage-bolt holes (at least) on the frame. But then the transmission mount is just held on by the back two carriage bolts. :(

Ideas? ]]> Roadster ironman16nc https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53553-MK5-Blueprint-347-Canton-T-sump-and-4R70W-does-not-fit Wtb: 302 headers https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53551-Wtb-302-headers&goto=newpost Sat, 25 Apr 2026 20:40:29 GMT Wanted to buy 302 headers..mk4 Wanted to buy 302 headers..mk4 ]]> Roadster 2012COYOTE https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53551-Wtb-302-headers Ball joint boots, I need em. https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53548-Ball-joint-boots-I-need-em&goto=newpost Sat, 25 Apr 2026 18:57:39 GMT Just doing an inspection on the underside of the car and found the upper ball joint boots would not stay attached to the ball joint. I believe these... Just doing an inspection on the underside of the car and found the upper ball joint boots would not stay attached to the ball joint. I believe these are Chrysler ball joints but don’t know what year. Does anyone have a line on some good ones that are durable and will stay on the ball joint. G ]]> Roadster ggunter https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?53548-Ball-joint-boots-I-need-em