Kevin Davis

I keep a pretty extensive blog going, and I thought it might be interesting to post a repeat of it here as I do new entries.

I would LOVE to get feedback if this is a complete waste of space and time, it won't hurt my feelings. I'll keep doing the other blog for sure.

[B]Dash Install and Holy Crap Bar:[/B]

As you can see in the pics, I also finished up my Holy Crap bar. There are lots of names for this, but it's for the passenger to hold onto, and it's appropriately named "holy crap bar." Since it can see a good bit of stress, it was important for me to get it very secure, yet be able to adjust it's position for final dash and body fitting. I fabricated a mounting system to allow for that, then drilled the holes in the dash for it. The dash position is static, but the part that mounts to the secure assembly is adjustable up and down (not a lot of side to side movement anyway with the steering column in place.)

[B]Pics:[/B]

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[B]Alarm LED:[/B]

I was able to get my alarm red led installed a couple of weekends ago, and so I thought I'd give the how-to on that as well. I wired it up, but since it's going into the tranny tunnel cover now (just in front of the keys), I won't do final install until that's ready to go in. It did work very well though.

For those that might want to do a similar thing, here's what I did.

Found the blinking LED here: [url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170477135292&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT[/url]

I used an extra housing I had from my del city order, but you can also buy them from del city or from parts express.

You don't really have to, but I used a relay for this, just so I could make it easy to switch between the key ON and key OFF status.

Here's how I wired it, using a standard 12v relay and socket (parts express too). I'm just going to give the wire colors, but you can look up the relay positions if you want.

Red - Battery - always hot
Blue - + side (red wire) of the LED
White - Ground
Black - Keyed 12v (ignition source)
Yellow - Not used

Obviously, the black wire (-) of the led is to ground.

That way, the light blinks when the key is off, but goes out when you start the motor or if the key is on.

[B]Interior Aluminum:[/B]

After a really cool mini-event of actually driving the car out of the shop, and then backing into the other bay, it was time to continue work on the interior aluminum. This is one of the last big steps in getting to go-kart status.

I was able to get the driver's floor, passenger's floor, and the bulkhead pieces all drilled, siliconed, and riveted in. Thank GOD for Mike's air riveter...I can't imagine trying to do all of those rivets by hand. I was glad that I ended up buying the double-ended 1/8" drill bits from harbor freight, but wish they were a little longer. Every time I use my drill, I am reminded that I will NEVER buy another chuckless drill, they are worthless for small bits, and end up having to retighten the chuck all the time.

I was also able to get the rear bulkhead access hole cut out, which will allow a little pocket for "stuff" behind the seats, but also will serve as a location for some small speakers in the corners that will fire across from side to side to get some sound. I just drilled a few holes, then cleco'd the panel in place, marked there the frame pieces sat, and cut the hole. I added a 1/2" to the measurement on the lower cut, which turned out great since the bolt heads on the 3-link retrofit kit make the trunk floor there sit up to almost that level. It was a pretty good fit. I'll add a "wall" that will sit 10-12" behind the opening.

One note worth mentioning. When I placed the bulkhead piece in place, I noticed that the holes for the seat belt routing didn't line up right. I took a closer look and realized the cross bar was actually not even or straight across, so it stuck up about 1/4" on the passenger side. I ended up "massaging" it with a dead blow rubberized hammer, and it fits great now.

I'm really enjoying the aluminum fabrication stuff, and just thinking through the problem solving aspect of the build. One issue I was having is the location where I want to mount the 10" subwoofers. I want to use the rear cross as part of the mounting system, which meant that the floor was about 3/4" too high. Relatively easily solution, I just need to make some "boxes" that will sit into the floor so that the subs will be able to be "submerged" slightly in the floor. After checking clearance on the 3-link banana bracket, I decided 2" depth was a good size. I also checked and marked for floor supports to see how much room I had from front to back (bulkhead to trunk). I ended up with a box size of 5" x 13.5". I was able to get the first one marked and cut, but have not bent it yet. I misfigured the first time, but luckily I remembered to fix it before I cut. I had allowed for the 1" lips for the bends on top, but forgot to allow for 2" of drop. I believe I ended up with an 11x19.5 piece.

[B]Pics:[/B]

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