https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?688-Center-switch-console Builder community site for Factory Five Racing. en Tue, 05 May 2026 03:57:46 GMT vBulletin 10 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/misc/rss.jpg https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?688-Center-switch-console https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?371-Rear-Tail-Lights-Mounted-high-No-quot-spacers-quot-required Sat, 17 Mar 2012 13:02:26 GMT All of the originals were a little different. But for the most part CSX2286, 2287 and 2299 were like FFR's placement and CSX2601, 2602 and 2300 were high. I like the high placement because I think it Accentuates the uniqueness of the Daytona's Kamm tail.

As much as I like the vintage looks, I also like Pete Brocks newer interpretation with the single reverse light on the left side, so I will be doing this.
A Lot of thought went into the layout I chose along with how the lights would pickup the mount.
The upper lamps won't hit the mounts, but will be right above them. The body will be "lamp secured" with the lower lamps on both sides and the reverse lamp on the left.
Here is a shot of the mounts with the holes.
A lot of people have commented that they felt like they needed "spacers" when securing the rear lamps to the body mounts, however I found that there is quite a bit of flex in the rear body panal and that it can easily draw up tight to the mount without requiring a spacer.


[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/tail001Medium.jpg[/IMG]

And a inside pic of the body holes. Highlighted is an image of FFR's placement that I just noticed.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/tail009Medium-1.jpg[/IMG]
[URL=http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Door%20fitmit/?action=view&current=Daytonabuild002.mp4][IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Door%20fitmit/th_Daytonabuild002.jpg[/IMG][/URL] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?371-Rear-Tail-Lights-Mounted-high-No-quot-spacers-quot-required https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?97-Cooling-System Mon, 07 Mar 2011 02:09:42 GMT I didn't care for the kits corrugated stainless steel hose and instead will be using mostly Ford 4.6L hoses. One Non Ford hose I did need to source (for the Coupes unique configuration) however was the lower Radiator hose.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/inertiaswitch0021Medium.jpg[/IMG]

Lower Rad hose to Cold side Thermostat. GATES#465-20603. With a nice bend over the Rack.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/inertiaswitch004Medium.jpg[/IMG]

White powder coated dual fan shroud.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/carlislelarge1.jpg[/IMG]

To be continued. ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?97-Cooling-System https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?62-Steering-Rack-Extender Tue, 22 Feb 2011 00:25:26 GMT Factory Five has a Continuous On going improvement strategy which can be seen with constant kit revisions. Changes to steering geometry have... Factory Five has a Continuous On going improvement strategy which can be seen with constant kit revisions. Changes to steering geometry have resulted in better Steering Axis Inclination and less “bump steer”. A lot of the improvements have been Customer driven from lessons learned at the track.
Some of the most frequently asked build questions are in reference to the FFR rack and pinion extenders. The purpose of these parts is to extend the pivot point of the inner Tie rod socket, so that it more closely matches that of the lower control arm pivot point while in the straight a head position. This can help minimize what is termed “bump steer” which results from changes in Toe specs as the suspension moves through its up and down travel. Having the Tie Rod and the Lower Control arm on the same horizontal plane goes along way in this elimination effort.

Installation- It stands to reason that if you are going to extend the pivot and hence the whole Tie Rod by 1 5/8” on each side, then you will have to remove 1 5/8” from the end. This is easily done by cutting off this amount from the threaded portion of the inner Tie Rod.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/steering008Large.jpg[/IMG]
Once you have your installation complete you may want to call Mark Reynolds at Breeze to replace the original Boots (that will now no doubt blow off due to their extended travel) with longer ones that he carries. I would also highly recommend his solid Rack Bushings.
[url]http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=849&cat_id=12[/url]

When you install the Rack you want to count the number of turns from lock to lock. Then center it by turning halfway from one lock. Then install your Wheel and Hub assembly onto your shaft. At one time some of the Wheel and Hubs supplied by FFR had evenly spaced holes, I know this BECAUSE I HAD ONE!
If your holes are not evenly spaced you can either Re-drill the hub or install a quick release wheel like I did this time.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/steering010Large.jpg[/IMG] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?62-Steering-Rack-Extender https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?57-Battery-Juntion-Box-BJB Fri, 18 Feb 2011 03:29:52 GMT Image: http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Batteryjunctionbox001Medium.jpg Attached to the X member with a bracket that I fabricated. ... [IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Batteryjunctionbox001Medium.jpg[/IMG]
Attached to the X member with a bracket that I fabricated. Still needs to be powdercoated.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Batteryjunctionbox002Medium.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Batteryjunctionbox013Medium.jpg[/IMG]
At first I had it sitting flat, but since it will be under the coolant reservoir I placed it tilted out
inorder to have clearance to open the lid. Still dieting the wires, when done they will exit forward
with the necassary ones coming back to their locations like the ABS harness shown in the pic.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/Batteryjunctionbox011Medium.jpg[/IMG] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?57-Battery-Juntion-Box-BJB https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?53-Firewall-Modifications Thu, 17 Feb 2011 22:32:07 GMT Stock FFR Firewall
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FIREWALL018Medium.jpg[/IMG]

Modification providing additional 3" for evaporator footprint.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FIREWALL030Medium.jpg[/IMG]


Again stock FFR Firewall
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FIREWALL022Medium.jpg[/IMG]


Russ Thompson inspired firewall mod.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FIREWALL024Medium.jpg[/IMG] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?53-Firewall-Modifications https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?52-Fuse-Box-Mounting Thu, 17 Feb 2011 22:29:02 GMT Central Juntion Box CJB The 16GA steel plate will rivet to the 3/4 sq pedal-box tubes and to the round footbox crash bar. The hindged box plate... Central Juntion Box CJB

The 16GA steel plate will rivet to the 3/4 sq pedal-box tubes and to the round footbox crash bar. The hindged box plate will be held closed with a 1/4 turn dzus fastener.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/fusebox008Medium.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/fusebox016Medium.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/fusebox029Medium.jpg[/IMG]



[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/fusebox018Medium.jpg[/IMG] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?52-Fuse-Box-Mounting https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?51-Fuel-Filler-Neck-and-Lemans-Gas-Cap Thu, 17 Feb 2011 21:55:57 GMT In order to maintain the stock filler and vent tube here is what I did. First I modified the neck by cutting it and incorporating a Jeep filler hose... In order to maintain the stock filler and vent tube here is what I did. First I modified the neck by cutting it and incorporating a Jeep filler hose pn# 5357970 that has a 1” ID and a 90*elbow at one end.
I had a fellow forum member fabricate some aluminum I purchased off eBay to create a mount/spacers. I also sold the new style Lemans gas cap and picked up an old style one. While few will be using a tank with this neck, if you are, this combination seems to have worked out pretty good with a nice unkinked shot to the tank.




[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FUELFILLER007Medium.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FUELFILLER009Medium.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FUELFILLER001Medium.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/FUELFILLER005Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[url]http://www.xtremeterrain.com/1978-86jeepcjgastankfillerhose-doesnotfit20gallon.aspx[/url]

78-86 CJ with 15 gal tank
OMIX-ADA 17740.03 replaces 5357970

Sometimes sold with both the fill and vent hose I have seen the fill for less than $10 on ebay.
I came up with this hose by googling 1" fuel filler hose. I was surprised how easy the search was and how nice it all fit. ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?51-Fuel-Filler-Neck-and-Lemans-Gas-Cap https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?34-Dash Wed, 16 Feb 2011 04:20:55 GMT The FFR dash is ok, But I wanted a gauge layout a little closer to the originals.
From what I've seen all 6 of the original Coupes were a little different. CSX2287,CSX2300 and CSX2601 all had the Gauges upper/bottom row stacked directly on top of each other, and all had the speedometer on the passenger side of the dash except CSX2601 which had it in the middle located above the console. And only CSX2299 had the Tach and two small gauges "Staggered" over the bottom three...So my layout is kind of a combination of the CSX2299 Stagger and the CSX2601 center speedo. Another thing about the originals would be their smaller 3 3/8" Stewart Warner speed/tach and larger 2 5/8" SW sub gauges.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/dash2Large.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/dash1Large-1.jpg[/IMG]
Here are the dimensions for my layout in the pic below
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/calvinkleincapris026Large.jpg[/IMG]
I had Russ Thompson bend up the first custom dash above. I was very happy with it until I burned though it trying to "alumaloy" a stiffener in the steering column slot.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/calvinkleincapris034Large.jpg[/IMG]
In order to have enough room for the Tach stacked on top of the smaller gauges I increased the height of the dash face 3/4" to a 7 7/8" total and then raised the dash 3/4" for knee clearance by welding in another dash support on top of the one already there as you can see in the pic above. ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?34-Dash https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?23-Radiator-Duct-Aluminum Tue, 15 Feb 2011 23:14:26 GMT You have 5 main pieces. The center piece, the 2 sides and the 2 supports that attach to the sides and then to the frame. First make sure your... You have 5 main pieces. The center piece, the 2 sides and the 2 supports that attach to the sides and then to the frame.

First make sure your radiator fits under the radiator hold down band. (Some earlier kits required modifications to the lower radiator brackets.)

Next’s it’s a good idea to have the nose mounted so that the radiator duct can be positioned properly for the hood opening and also hood contact.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/DuctWork004Medium.jpg[/IMG]



[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/DuctWork006Medium.jpg[/IMG]



[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/DuctWork008Medium.jpg[/IMG]


Here it is installed with a Glimpse of the not quite finished custom rear of headlight splash shield.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/DuctWork010Medium.jpg[/IMG]

There is the commonly referred to "u" piece that sits in front of the radiator and connects to the rear duct at the bottom...many have reinforced this at this point like the angled aluminum in the pic below. Otherwise you may experience a fluttering noise at hwy speeds.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/radduct2002Medium.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coolanttube010Medium.jpg[/IMG]
I have not seen anyone else do this, they usually stop at the Radiator. However the Radiator hold down band has a vertical upright that can except Bulb seal; if you make sure the band is installed so that this is on the back side you can attach bulb seal continuously around the duct opening.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coolanttube021Medium.jpg[/IMG]
Condenser mounted Receiver/Drier.

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coolanttube014Medium.jpg[/IMG] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?23-Radiator-Duct-Aluminum https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?17-DOHC-Coupe-build Sun, 13 Feb 2011 18:32:25 GMT What I would like to do is put together a "build blog" by slowly putting in topics, along with pics and commentary that shows the process I took along the way. And then organize this in a logical and numbered build sequence, hopefully answering some common build questions. I think these types of blogs could be a great way for members to build this site with useful build info and personal modification ideas.
The "DOHC COUPE BUILD" would be my opening title page.
At this time Factory Five does not support the 4.6L Modular motor in a Coupe, but with
Some modifications it can be done. The only two concerns are the width of the motor and the lack of 4.6L Coupe exhaust.
1. To solve the exhaust issue you can get a custom exhaust made up or simply opt for Factory Five’s ROADSTER Headers and Side pipes like I did.
2.a To solve motor width issue on the driver side all you need is 2 pieces of Factory Five Aluminum FFR#14718 LH 4.6L INNER WALL and FFR#14719 4.6L INNER WALL TOP.
2.bSo the Pass side was the only side I really had to modify and in doing so I also dropped the floor. So while cramping up the foot space in favor of the motor nothing was done that effected length other than increasing it by dropping the pass side floor.

3. One more thing you will need is a new shallower oil pan, and I would recommend the Champ pan sold by Richard Oben of NorthRacecars

[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308008Small-1.jpg[/IMG]
Non Donor, New Ford Racing Cobra Motor and T45 Trans package.
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308012Small.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308413Small.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308032Small.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308033Small.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308034Small.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/coupe8308035Small.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/carlislelarge4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/carlislelarge.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/Tyrod2/body2Small.jpg[/IMG] ]]> Tim Potts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?17-DOHC-Coupe-build