Factory Five Forums - Blogs - skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?4301-skullandbones Builder community site for Factory Five Racing. en Sat, 02 May 2026 22:30:43 GMT vBulletin 10 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/misc/rss.jpg Factory Five Forums - Blogs - skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?4301-skullandbones Running and Driving: Tuning is Working! https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1194-Running-and-Driving-Tuning-is-Working! Mon, 04 Apr 2016 08:23:14 GMT I'm pleased to say I got my new computer system installed and started the engine with the new PCM and base tune that was sent with the kit. I was equally surprised to hear the engine come alive this time as I was when it started immediately on the first start of the EEC-IV setup years ago. As reported in the instructions the engine does not run very well at first. It requires some adjustments of some of the cells in the VE fuel table. There is only one of these with an option to put another in for what I am not sure yet. I will be reading about that soon. Anyway, there is a table for fuel that has 256 cells: each with a value which is a percentage of load at a certain rpm. Load is represented on the left (y axis) and rpms is represented on the bottom line (x axis). So each cell will have something like 40. If you change that cell to 50 you are adding fuel or going richer and less is leaner. Of course, the idea is to get the engine to run as lean as you can and still be safe from detonation and run with power. You have to get the engine to run well enough to be able to stay running and pull, at least, to a slow to medium cruise speed. It didn't take me much changing the cells to get it to drive normally. There were a few stutters and stumbles but for the most part it ran well enough to get up to speed. There is a "life boat" for new tuners as the literature calls it in Tuner Studio, one of the software apps that support this PCM. It is a "live tune" mode that has an algorithm which calculates the AFR (using a wide band AFR sensor/gauge to compare the real AFR values in the load/rpm ranges you are driving in on your VE fuel table. It changes the values of that cell as it moves through the load/rpm ranges. If that cell is not used in your driving scenario for that tune, it will not be changed. The object is to drive in every possible scenario that you will find to achieve the maximum number of cells changed in that tuning session. One of the tech gurus said not to worry since I have a N/A engine as only about 70 cells will ever be affected. If I had a power adder, it might be as many as 140 or so. But I can not create a load over 100% with a n/a engine. After I have tuned as many as I can with the auto tune, I work on the table manually so I can smooth the transitions from cell to cell to make it smoother running and looking on the table. This is a somewhat trial by error method but it does work. After about three driving sessions, I have gotten the tune to a point where it is as good or better than it was with the other computer. I know there is room for improvement and also there is capacity for improvement. Where as with the old computer, I did not have much if any tools to make the computer run better. At this point, I think I could take the roadster cross country. That's how well it's running. I still haven't done any WOT launches or red line shifts but that will come after I get back to it after finishing another project that had to be done. I can get into the roadster now any time and drive it without worrying if it will run well or not. One mysterious aspect of this process is the ignition portion. I have an ignition table form one of the Mustang racers who has an engine very similar to my setup. It was a two year development during two racing seasons. So I removed a couple of degrees as it was optimized for 93 octane which we can't get here. I'm thinking I might try a little more or less rather after I have my fuel table "perfect". However, I will not be doing much on it beyond that as there is not a lot I have found in my research that is intuitive about ignition timing adjustment. I will have to read a lot more and maybe get some books on the specifics to get some insight. The ignition timing is good though.

My next move is to disassemble my intake and install the new ITB setup (8 down draft 52 mm TB). I should probably wait for the heads which I am porting (cleaning and smoothing mostly) but they are not ready so I guess I will be going thru a few sets of gaskets before it's finally done. After I am reasonably sure I have the ITBs right, I will be going to a DIS (distributorless ignition system). This is one of the major reasons for me changing the computer as it will support multiple setups for induction and ignition with a little user input. I don't want to change too much at once so I got the new computer started with the engine setup exactly as it was with the old computer. One change at a time will reduce the variables for trouble shooting. It also keeps me busy! (ha-ha).

As I said, the engine is running as good as it was before the change but it gives me hope to be able to tweek the tune for those extra hps that were left out of the EEC-IV by the Ford engineers. I will have to see how much I can squeeze out of it. The other cool thing is you have literally control of every aspect of the engine management with the touch of a computer key! Maybe that's a little scary in some ways but also very powerful tool when you learn how to use it.:cool::cool::cool:

Thanks,

WEK. ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1194-Running-and-Driving-Tuning-is-Working! Starting the Computer Install https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1189-Starting-the-Computer-Install Sat, 09 Jan 2016 20:37:35 GMT I've been reading like mad to get a head start on the computer installation for the tunable ECU that I got. Most of it is pretty simple mechanically but there are many small steps and every one can determine success or failure. As an example, the setup of the vehicle has to be configured in the ECU with short jumpers to let the computer know it's a V8, stock ignition, running BAP or not. Thankfully, mine is a simple setup. I plan on going with DIS later but that will be configured then. Another reason for this choice is it's versatility.

I will change out the stock ECU for the new one which fits in just like the EEC-IV (so nice for the Mustang crowd). It turned out that my oil temp gauge was not working. I wondered why. Then I found that the sender lead is not connected to the gauge. I had been trouble shooting the sender and I thought I had connected the blue wire to the gauge but there is no trace of that wire so far. I will have to trace it from the engine bay (???). It gives me the opportunity to use this gauge hole for the WB O2 gauge for the startup. I will change that later as it really sticks out like a sore thumb on the vintage looking dash. I'm removing a few wires from the harness which I could have not done but decided to do it anyway. So most of the work will be cleaning up the wiring and rewrapping the harness after I know it all works.

This is another level of learning about my car since I have no clue how the EEC-IV really works. I will probably have to stop at some point and just accept it. However, I already have more knowledge of how the system will operate than before I started this new project. for instance, how critical is the BAP for making your engine run. It turns out not as much as I thought. The air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, etc are much more critical. An example is when you have a small stumble on acceleration, it could be due to one cell in the fuel table above where you are idling. If you fix that, the stumble magically disappears. So far I have learned that keeping the readings a little on the rich side (safe side) allows you to experiment and still not blow a head gasket or run into a bad detonation event. I'm sure I will learn a lot of details and some of the quirks of this system as I get more into it. My initial goal is to get it running well enough to drive and tune.

Turns out this has been a good time to start since we are getting a lot of weather that usually isn't part of the AZ winter. I haven't seen this much rain since I moved here. But the roadster is safe and dry in the garage. I have a few pics to show the rather messy process I'm in right now.

BTW: I have been able to delete the wiring and component for the BAP, MAF, EGR, O2 sensors, so far and a little later will delete the IAC as well.

WEK.:cool::cool::cool:
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]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1189-Starting-the-Computer-Install One Step Closer. https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1188-One-Step-Closer Fri, 13 Nov 2015 05:58:42 GMT I purchased the AEM wide band last month which is supposed to be the most popular one he has seen with his clients according to the engineer/owner of... I purchased the AEM wide band last month which is supposed to be the most popular one he has seen with his clients according to the engineer/owner of the Stinger PiMP. But I really pulled the trigger today when I bought the PiMP computer for my 5.0. It's based on Megasquirt technology but the thing that made it most attractive to me was the "plug and play" feature. It actually plugs into the EEC-IV harness connector of my engine harness. There is a vacuum hose that attaches to the engine and that's supposed to be it. So the "plug" part, at least, is accurate. If it "plays" nicely then I will be a happy camper. We will see if the base tune that is included will get the thing started. After that it's a session or two with the Tuning Studio software to see if it will auto tune and how well. I've never done this before so it is a new adventure. I will be uninstalling my Mass Air Flow sensor and replacing it with an aluminum tube to allow my cold air to still work. Right now I'm still running the plenum chamber manifold with 75 mm TB. I'm going to change out the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which was a donor item and install new hotter plugs. But besides that, I will do nothing to change the system. Since I will be going to the 8 stack EFI next, I thought it was wise to transition to the new computer with the same system that my EEC-IV ran on. If I get too many variables going, it could be problematic. I've heard the most important basic thing other than changing out the computer is getting the base time to exactly 10 degrees so it will match with the expected 10 degrees that is in the design parameters of the PiMP. It's a good thing my dash is hinged and can be released with not a lot of steps. I have to release the collapsible steering shaft and move the quick release hub behind the dash and then just work the dash down by massaging it a little. I will be installing a RS-232 line to the computer that stays in place. It's long enough to run out from under the dash and connect to the lap top on the passenger seat. The other big install is the wide band sensor and gauge. Not a big deal for the exhaust location since it will replace one of the narrow band sensors. However, I don't have any plans for installing it permanently; that is the gauge. Still haven't decided if that will be something I want to look at all the time. It will not really fit the design of the other gauges (digital and modern looking). I might install it with a cover over it under the dash. Well, that about covers the plan. One of my theories why the engine has been running intermittently off is that the PCM is crapping out. It is a 1992 donor item and it could have an adulterated file or two. We will see when I change it out. This operation will allow me to go forward with the 8 stack induction without too much fuss, I hope.

So wish me luck,

WEK.:cool::cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1188-One-Step-Closer Coming To A Crossroad: More HP and Change in Configuration https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1186-Coming-To-A-Crossroad-More-HP-and-Change-in-Configuration Thu, 24 Sep 2015 06:36:55 GMT Building and then driving and maintaining one of these cars is not the same for sure. If I had built this roadster with the idea of showing it, I... Building and then driving and maintaining one of these cars is not the same for sure. If I had built this roadster with the idea of showing it, I probably would not drive it very much so at least I got that right as driving has been much more fun than building for me. I'm constantly thinking about how far to go with the hp and upgrades in the engine that will take me to where I want to keep it for a while. Driving it also weighs on that as well. I don't want to leave it down for more than a week or even less if possible for whatever I do. So that will be the guiding pathway for this project. I really do have a general idea of what I want as a "perfect engine" for this car but it is influenced by so many things day to day.

So far it's a mild build with probably around 340 350 HP at the flywheel. I just did some repair/maintenance on the distributor as I was getting a intermittent miss that I could not track down. So I replaced the TFI module (engine control module). I also found that one spring clip in the distributor body may have been loose. The plastic bracket holding it fell apart when I released the clip. Can say it was not holding but it was suspect. So that could have been my problem as well. Also, for some reason, the SPOUT was out of the harness. I know I put it back last time I checked timing but it was not there and no where to be found. Now it is running like it did when I first started it. I love the way it runs. I also love to drive it. So the dilemma is do you want to take this to another level? I believe the answer is YES. I will be purchasing a MS tunable computer for the system next month along with a wide band O2 sensor/gauge. This will be the first step toward a completely different level of 5.0. The reason is the ECC-IV PCM is just not designed to reflash or upgrade except by piggybacking on the service port with an aftermarket chip. I don't want to be tied to the tuner for that process so the stand alone version is the only way for me. The Stinger Performance MS PiMP will be the PCM. It will also let me get rid of my Mass Air Flow sensor and a little later go to a crank trigger and dc the distributor as well. The first stage will be the computer change and a base tune. After that I will be changing the engine in stages. First will be the new induction. I have tried the Holley Systemax long runner intake and now have a fabricated plenum chamber type manifold. Both ran well but differently. I gained more low and middle range power with the later but lost some high end. So the next new induction will be a 8 stack EFI which I have always wanted to try. It will also represent a return to the original looking engine for the early roadster whether it is accurate or not. I know they didn't run EFI but the 8 stack setup really reminds you of what they looked like back then. Most people don't get beyond the velocity stacks to see that there aren't any Webbers underneath.

So the plan is to tune the 5.0 with the stack system and the new computer before doing any more changes. After that the DIS will be added to clean up the engine bay a little more. The final step is to abandon the 5.0 to a different short block based on the 351W. It will most likely be the 408 although the 393 would be OK too. At that point, I will be doing some major work of not only changing the displacement but also the heads and cam. I'm working on the heads now but they are just too big for the 5.0, I think. The other change will be the induction again. I will have to ditch the manifold and upgrade to a tall deck replacement but the TBs, injectors, adaptors, and other hardware will transfer.

I love the good gas mileage, the simplicity of the system, and all the practical things that go along with the 5.0 but the desire to maximize the fun is just too much. So it looks like a 408 with 8 stacks and DIS is in my future. Maybe not in this driving season (AZ-Oct to May) but definitely some time in 2016. It's still amazing how much fun it is to drive the way it is.

Thanks,

WEK.:cool::cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1186-Coming-To-A-Crossroad-More-HP-and-Change-in-Configuration Aluminum 302 Heads: Pouring and Micing the Exhaust Runners https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1163-Aluminum-302-Heads-Pouring-and-Micing-the-Exhaust-Runners Wed, 18 Mar 2015 05:42:12 GMT received my buret from Amazon today so I did some preliminary measurements on the exhaust runners. I didn't expect to get exactly 70 cc for the volume as the valves are not installed. However, I did have a goal of getting a good baseline measurement for comparison of the like runners on each head. So I "poured" the runners after blocking off the ports and guides. I was pleasantly surprised to find a consistency of within one cc (84 to 85). There is a error factor of +/- 1 cc (had to double error factor due to two pours per runner - only a 50 cc buret). The measurements are acceptable though. Next I miced the roof to floor, wall to wall, diagonals, and any other parameter that I could that was repeatable from runner to runner. It was very consistent except for the one runner at the valve seat where I had "ported" the area for smoothness. I use the word porting loosely. I also poured and miced one exhaust runner on the other head to see if I had a consistent set. It was also similar in measurements to the other runners. I am relieved that the data agrees with the "eye test" which was based on experience but no measurements. I must have gotten a 4th or 5th generation head from what I have read in the machinist forums. Their comments tend to favor heads produced 2012 or later. That is consistent with my findings. Next I will continue copying my work for the other three runners then try to duplicate a master runner on the other head to match this head and copy the others to match.

When I have assembled the heads, I will "pour" them again to see if the volume is close to the design specs. As I mentioned before, I'm more concerned about the intake runner volume. I hope they run a little smaller than the published numbers but will just have to live with it if not (until the next shortblock).

Thanks,

WEK. :cool::cool::cool:
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]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1163-Aluminum-302-Heads-Pouring-and-Micing-the-Exhaust-Runners Port Matching/Polishing Aluminum 302 Heads: Exhaust Runners https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1162-Port-Matching-Polishing-Aluminum-302-Heads-Exhaust-Runners Sun, 08 Mar 2015 20:29:30 GMT I have never worked on aluminum heads so this is a slow process to transfer what I know over to a different medium. I changed from a 1/4 inch shank,... I have never worked on aluminum heads so this is a slow process to transfer what I know over to a different medium. I changed from a 1/4 inch shank, air driven tool to a 1/8 inch shank rotary tool with very precise speed control. I found right of the bat that the aluminum is much more critical as far as "touch" to get the same results. A very slight pressure on the material with grinding stone gets the same results as from significant pressure with a carbide cutter on steel. So I'm beginning with the exhaust runners as they have less work to accomplish a smooth surface. The exhaust ports have been raised in the casting which will flow better. The only real work with a stone was around the guide boss which I will still clean up on the final hand work. The other "defect" as I see it was a ring around the whole runner about a half inch in from the valve seat. It was removed on the long radius from about 4 to 8 o'clock but I wanted it gone all the way around. I will reduce turbulence but probably not add to flow rate. The other work was around the base of the valve seat interfacing the machined surface. It looked a lot worse than it really was by feel. The surface smoothed out nicely with a sanding drum. The runners are supposed to be 70 cc so I'm not concerned about making them too big but that won't be an issue since I took out so little material. These look at least twice the size of my GT40 heads. After smoothing out the guide bosses a bit more it will be ready to do final hand smoothing of the walls by sanding with 400 grit transversely across the runner. It will produce a smooth surface that still has enough texture to create a boundary layer to create a non turbulent flow. I've got a few shots of the "as cast" runners and then work as I progressed. It's good this is a loose schedule build since it would severely tax my patience if I had to keep my nose to the grindstone (ha - ha!).

Thanks,

WEK. :cool::cool:
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]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1162-Port-Matching-Polishing-Aluminum-302-Heads-Exhaust-Runners Portmatching/Polishing 302 Aluminum Heads https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1160-Portmatching-Polishing-302-Aluminum-Heads Fri, 27 Feb 2015 23:37:30 GMT Going from GT40P heads even if they are ported to aluminum heads is going to be a vast improvement for my performance plans. My self imposed budget... Going from GT40P heads even if they are ported to aluminum heads is going to be a vast improvement for my performance plans. My self imposed budget is based on being a poor hot rodder which has caused the habit to stick. I'm starting with a set of Victor Jr clones that are bare "as cast". My initial inspection and evaluation of these is good to very good. There are defects as with any "as cast" product. The defects, parting lines, and other rough areas will be smoothed an blended to meet my needs for this project. It should take about 2 hours per runner. My time is much cheaper after retirement, I've found. The coolest thing is that I will be working indoors where I worked on my intake manifold about two years ago. It turns out to be perfect for this sort of job with lighting (ten foot window) and already proven work site. I have my magnifying light already set up. I purchased a HF tool that has a shaft and arbor attached with a 0 to 10,000 rpm control. The plan is to do this project over a loose time schedule when I feel like it so it won't become a hassle instead of fun. The build should be complete during the hot AZ summer and engine teardown and buildup completed before September and the beginning of the AZ driving season.

I have a couple of pics to show the tool and area. My plans are to have the engine checked on the dyno some time between now and HB. When I finish the head replacement, I will have it done again to see how well I did.

Wish me luck,

WEK. :cool::cool::cool:
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]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1160-Portmatching-Polishing-302-Aluminum-Heads Body Work Continues on the MKIII Roadster: Polish https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1150-Body-Work-Continues-on-the-MKIII-Roadster-Polish Sat, 19 Apr 2014 20:54:51 GMT I suppose I have gotten more re-orientation to body work and related tasks on this build than with most of the projects I have done in the past. ... I suppose I have gotten more re-orientation to body work and related tasks on this build than with most of the projects I have done in the past. Just having the tools and materials in your hands and beginning the process again is a relearning process thru the neuro-muscular pathways we develop over the years. Sometimes they come back (the skills) and sometimes not so much. So my practice so far is resulting in some progress. I am using this black lacquer "paint job" as a sacrificial coating. I have gotten compliments as it looks a lot better than primer. It raises a lot more attention with a shiny smooth looking surface. Go figure. We humans are superficial.

So I compounded and polished the lacquer just as you would for a finished job and it's OK. Definitely easier to see all the flaws. So that's good and bad. I really like being able to wipe off the body with a towel after rinsing it with water. Here are a few pics. Thanks, WEK
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]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1150-Body-Work-Continues-on-the-MKIII-Roadster-Polish Body Work Continues on My MKIII Roadster https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1149-Body-Work-Continues-on-My-MKIII-Roadster Tue, 08 Apr 2014 04:51:10 GMT I have gone about the body work thing a little differently than most I have read about on this forum. I suppose it has partly to do with my agenda... I have gone about the body work thing a little differently than most I have read about on this forum. I suppose it has partly to do with my agenda which was to drive for a while before finishing the bodywork. I have done that since I have a thousand miles on the car while having just grinded the seams and doing a minimal amount of body filling and sanding along with a coat of hot rod black primer. So now I decided to do round two by going back in and improving the areas that I had worked before but with a goal of getting the curves consistently matched from panel to panel. That has been a lot harder than I anticipated. One of the things that has helped is using a flexible sanding board and a good quality grade sand paper. The other thing is widening my filler pattern to feather out the curves better. I think that is a common amateur mistake to under estimate the size of the band of filler to allow for the surface matching. So doing it more like the dry wall guys do it is the general idea (wider is better).

I ran into a problem with some contaminated filler or something in the process that was contaminated. It resulted in me taking out a complete area of filler and starting from scratch due to the breaking out of the bad areas that did not cure or whatever caused the problem. Keeping all implements super clean can make a big difference. Other than that little setback most of the work has been productive, at least, for someone with limited experience with this sort of "craft". It is definitely one of those disciplines that requires patiences, consistency, and skill level. I am learning the patience, gaining some consistency, and learning my limitations and staying well within that range. One example is the point at which you think you are finished. I have found that there is a point at which I can no longer tell exactly if the curve is completely perfect. So I have resorted to a technique which was shown to me a long time ago by a body man. I am utilizing a gloss black lacquer coat I call a "check coat" on the whole body. I know it sounds like a lot of work but it is worth it, I think. The black paint reveals every little defect you can imagine from pinholes and scratches so small you wouldn't believe it to the more obvious defects like dimples and low spots. The good thing is that my defects from the first phase to the second have gotten very small indeed. I am glad that I am not seeing a 12 inch flat spot that I missed. One of the problems with working with lacquer is it tends to orange peel so I have been fightning that. The first coat was a disaster so I sanded and started over by using every little trick to remove the orange peel (slow thinner, misting thinner on the finished coat, etc....). So now that I have a coating of paint with a little orange peel (heat and how humidity in AZ don't help), I can manage the next phase which is cutting it down with 1200.

The cutting of the check coat was better than I thought. It looks much better than the primer and if it weren't for the scratches and other minor issues I have with the body, you could say it's not a bad paint job. Since it's main purpose it to act as a finder for defects, the role as a real paint job has to take a back seat to the whole process. It doesn't hurt to cut an polish it as it will make it a lot more presentable while I am doing the more detailed body work. I cut it today to a smoother surface and tomorrow will detail those areas that I missed. Then I will polish the whole thing to get that real shine partly for looks but above all for the added feature of showing off those small imperfections. The combination of the consistent smooth surface and the black background in good light is priceless for spotting defects. I think I will spend quite a bit of time documenting the issues by pics and also measuring the locations of the areas I will work. I will sort of be like surgery as I will be taping off a small section at a time and working it with glazing putty and blocking once or twice. The telling step will be the repainting of the area and checking to see if the defect has disappeared under the new coat of black paint.

Well, that's a good stopping point as I need little breaks in the action to keep a mental state for this body work thing. I look at it as step by step improvements. Of course, I can't wait until I have a black undercoat with a nearly perfect body underneath. That's the goal before choosing a final paint scheme. I will add some pics after polishing as it is a little dull after cutting sort of like one of those old black bowling alley balls.

Thanks,

WEK.:cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1149-Body-Work-Continues-on-My-MKIII-Roadster Aftermarket Tuner or Professional Tune??? https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1146-Aftermarket-Tuner-or-Professional-Tune Thu, 06 Feb 2014 19:20:57 GMT Well, I've had some time to get used to driving the roadster and put some time on the engine. It had it's first oil change last week. I have about 950 miles on it now in various driving situations. I have only done a WOT burst twice so I still can't report on how it really performs as a drag racer. What I have discovered is there is only so much you can do to regulate the performance of an EFI engine without some sort of outside help. That help can come in the form of an electronic after market tuner or a new chip installed by a tuner and professional dyno tune at a shop. There are a couple of things I have not optimized. I still need a fuel pump that delivers the fuel at a high enough rate when this engine is at WOT. I think my last calculation was a 110 ltr/hr was minimal. The stock one is 88 ltr/hr so that is OK for driving but not for performance. I need a measuring device for the fuel rails when I do have enough pressure at the rails. I believe that will have to be removable as I do not want any weak points in the fuel line system that could generate a fire (some gauges have been reported to fail under high pressure). I think the stock donor coil is probably marginal at best as the engine will occasionally miss when pushing throttle quickly. So these are "to dos" before any real performance testing can be done.

Of course, the real question is how much time and self education do I want to spend on tuning this little beast. I know that the Ford engineers in their infinite wisdom built quite a bit of performance in the EM system that can be tapped. I don't know if the reports of "under tuning" are exaggerated or not but there is some evidence that there is a lot of unextracted power to be had with an after market chip and dyno tune. At this point, I am leaning toward that path since my research on DIY tuners indicates a dedication that is too intense for me at this time. I have other hobbies that keep me busy like astronomy and don't need another discipline to master: "expert tuner". So at this point it looks like a trip to AMP (that's our local hot rod shop). They specialize in making Fox body Mustangs go fast. I thought it would be a good match. The dyno will see my roadster as a Mustang as the electronics are the same. The tuner has about 20 years experience with SBF and ford EFI so I'm hoping for a good improvement in performance. I'll report back with some dyno data before too long. See ya, WEK. ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1146-Aftermarket-Tuner-or-Professional-Tune Engine Blog: First 302 Experience - Minor tuning tweeks NOT MUCH LEFT TO ADJUST! https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1011-Engine-Blog-First-302-Experience-Minor-tuning-tweeks-NOT-MUCH-LEFT-TO-ADJUST! Fri, 26 Apr 2013 03:50:50 GMT I've been away from the engine for a while. I installed the body for, I hope, the last time but we will see on that point.
So my friend Mike came over a couple of times this month and we adjusted to things. I had never really precisely done
the basic timing (just close) so that was pretty easy with two people. So it is now at 13.5 or 14 with the spout disconnected. After
that we did a procedure to calibrate the WOT sensor to optimize that computer reading. It was off quite a bit. We have
the baseline at 1.0 and the WOT reading is 4.7. That is about as good as we could do. Also, I put a heaver spring on
the trottle body butterfly and adjusted the idle to about 1000 rpms. I was pleasantly surprised that the engine runs
smoother and I don't kill it nearly as much. I must admit, I am learning how to drive a straight shift again. I believe the
RAM clutch and such made it a little more challenging than your average straight shift car. As of now, I can't figure out
what other things I can do to improve things. I will put some hours on the engine. Right now I must have five miles total
and about an hour of run time. I don't suppose the engine is even broken in such as seating the rings, etc. The DMV
thing happens next week so I will be putting a lot of test trips on it very soon. Another issue is: when I am driving for
these short test runs, I'm concentrating on keeping it between the ditches as it is pretty spirted. I don't want to find out
just how crazy it is until I get more comfortable with it. But it's hard to concentrate on one little issue at this point. It looks like the next logical step is an A/F meter and some version
of an after market tuner (with a heavy dose of education!). Right now, I'm loving my Cobra engine. See you later.
WEK. :cool::cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1011-Engine-Blog-First-302-Experience-Minor-tuning-tweeks-NOT-MUCH-LEFT-TO-ADJUST! Engine Blog: First 302 experience - Now what? https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?417-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-Now-what Thu, 12 Apr 2012 22:04:56 GMT [ATTACH=CONFIG]8822[/ATTACH]

Well, just as I thought, the timing isn't bad for a start. It turned out to be about 10 degrees with the SPOUT disconnected (basic timing). So I will not make any changes until I have a chance to test dirve. Getting the cold air kit permanently installed was my next task. On the start up video it was sticking up in the air but I planned on running it through the hole in the passenger F panel to the wheel well as pictured. I decided on a recalibrated MAF sensor from Summit that is 75mm and calibrated for 24 lb injectors and cold air kit. One thing Ford Racing and others recommend (if you are using factory tuned EEC) is to keep your MAF as close to stock positioning as you can. I used the stock air tubes between the MAF and the trottle body with a small additional sleeve. Also, it is recommended that you install at least a 6 to 8 in straight tube the size of the opening of the MAF before any curves in the tube going to the air filter. So I have about 7 inches of 3 in diameter tubing and then a bend out to the air filter in the wheel well. This is to reduce the air turbuence which could result in a slow down of the air steam to the MAF sensor which could lower the voltage signal to the EEC (lean AFR). Since this reading is the most critical for the EEC IV system, it is important to create a close to stock environment for this sensor. The MAF is calibrated on a flow bench to mimic the optimal 19 lb injector voltage readings even though the air flow will be as much as 26 % more with the new components. However, the new readings will be interpreted the same as the curve for the smaller injectors e.g. the WOT point on new calibration will correspond to the old curve and give the same voltage input to the computer. This occurs all along the curve down to the very low readings (0.5). This is an important reason for the MAF to be sized as small as possible for the new components so the lower sensitivity readings at the idle level of the curve will be sensitive enough to allow for smooth street behavior. I could have gone with a smaller TB but then it would not have port matched intake so this optimizes the air flow for the overall design. There appears to be enough potential air flow plus some extra (according to TB compared to 302 8 cyl cycle) without over sizing it (like some do when putting too large of a carb on their engine). I will continue to tweek this combo with fuel pressure and fuel octane if necessary to reduce the chance for detonation. I think I need some time on the road to point me in right direction. And of course, some AF monitoring to verify that I'm in the safe zone.
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]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?417-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-Now-what Engine Blog: First 302 experience - To Tune or Not To Tune That is the Question. https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?400-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-To-Tune-or-Not-To-Tune-That-is-the-Question Tue, 03 Apr 2012 06:39:19 GMT I've put about 5 minutes of run time on the engine now. It was cut short due to a minor coolant leak in the rear of the intake and for some reason the rad fans didn't activate at temp. Well, you have to install the relays but in my defense the relay housing look very much like the relays so I thought they were there (wired some time ago). Didn't work after adding relays. I had other wiring issues but straightened it all out. So I finally got to do a sustained run. Have a look: [url]http://youtu.be/tY8BKe7ko1Y[/url] . It's such a relief to here the SBF running. Compared to my "carb" build in the past, this was much more complicated. The room for error is much greater especially in the wiring and sensor part of the engine build. I think you become a lot more confident after one of these EFI projects is under your belt. At least, that is my feeling. Tomorrow I'm going back for another session and start on the basic timing to get it tweeked to where it sounds just right. I have had suggestions from several sources to add some monitoring devices to monitor fuel pressure and A/F ratio. Without a tuner with a wide band controller, this is probably the best way to stay "safe" with the factory EEC-IV. Without some idea of AFR you can run too lean which can result in engine damage. I'm not sure I would be able to detect pinging in this engine if it was happening. I can't hear myself think when it's running. Of course, that's not really a complaint. It's just hard to diagnose what's going on by the "seat of your pants" approach with one of these little beasts. Well, I suppose if I can get the basic timing in the 10 to 12 degree area and it still runs well, that will be a good start. Who knows it may be there already. Tomorrow it goes under the timing light for verification. I rigged upt the cold air tubes and filter just to have it in place for today. It won't really stick through the hood like on the video. I think I can route it so it will go thru the F panel on the passenger side and just clear the tire. The air should be good out there. Anything to make the MAF-C happy!!! WEK:cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?400-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-To-Tune-or-Not-To-Tune-That-is-the-Question Engine Blog: First 302 experience - Wonderful World of EFI https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?380-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-Wonderful-World-of-EFI Fri, 23 Mar 2012 03:56:38 GMT Somewhat tongue and cheek but can be satisfying when you finally get it running. I was intimidated by the wiring but finally when it started, I knew... Somewhat tongue and cheek but can be satisfying when you finally get it running. I was intimidated by the wiring but finally when it started, I knew I wouldn't have to do that again. Well, I made my plan to build up the crate engine (300 hp at 5800 rpm). Since it was already too much hp for the 19# injectors, using the Ford Racing formula I got 21+ so I knew the estimated 350+ with add ons would have to be at least 24# ones. It calculated to about 24.3 which I found acceptable. So 24# injectors it was with a matching MAF for cold air system. The wimpy 88 liter pump will have to go as well since using the injector formula backwards, you would need at least a 125 lb/hr pump. I will most likely have to use a 155 lb/hr pump. The only real wild card in the equation is the Holley Systemax which reportedly gives outrageous power between 4700 and 6500. One article documented a dyno test from 354 to 394 hp alone with other same add ons. I don't expect that much but if it exceeds the 350 target too much, I may have to change over to 30# injectors. Ford Racings says, " the injectors don't add the hp but allow the hp to be utilized if potential is there. Without the larger capacity injectors, it won't happen! I'm keeping the stock fuel rails. They don't seem to be a problem in similar builds. There is a lot of work and learning curve to get the proper tune with this setup but that will come step by step. I will start out with a basic 10 degrees and work up to 16 to 18 degrees with an eye on pre-ignition (colder plug higher octaine fuel). Other components that are not directly EFI related but will help quicker revs are the Crane alum roller rocker arms (1.7) and the RAM clutch and alum flywheel. I suppose I may have a launching problem if the engine doen't produce the needed torque under the 4700 level but in that case I will have to adjust the situation with suspension and gearing if necessary. But once it gets to it's sweet spot, I think it will be like a rocket! WEK. :cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?380-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-Wonderful-World-of-EFI Engine Blog: First 302 experience - Intake manifold https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?370-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-Intake-manifold Thu, 15 Mar 2012 22:55:19 GMT I thought I was pretty much done when I got the manifold on the second donor engine but there was a lot of cleanup to make it presentable. After the... I thought I was pretty much done when I got the manifold on the second donor engine but there was a lot of cleanup to make it presentable. After the inital cleaning, I mounted the lower unit to the engine and installed the 1 in phenolic spacer I got from Summit. It served two purposes 1) it allowed enough space to install and remove fasteners much easier and also allowed the valve covers to be removed with the upper still in place, and 2) it reduced the heat transfer from the lower to the upper manifold. I'm not sure if an additional inch of "ram" would make any difference (ha!). After I wasted time trying to polish down the lizard skin surface of the upper, I deferred that til later (after starting the engine). The next task came up when I noticed that the upper had a defect I didn't like. At the entrance of the trottle body (3+ in or 75mm), I noticed a casting ridge completely around on the inside with a 90 degree edge. There were other small casting issues there. So I spent a few hours cutting and smoothing the area with a dremel and a variety of stones. The end result was a smooth transition from the opening to the graduated "plenum chamber". If you can call that a plenum, it is different from others I've seen it goes from about 3 in down to almost the runner height but wide open. It may serve as funnel to help direct the air into the manifold runners. I couldn't resist getting a 75 mm throttle body to match that huge hole. It must be equivalent to 800 CMF although the EFI throttle bodies are not usually measured in those terms. Anyway, the engine has all the air potential that the manifold will offer. We'll have to see how it works! WEK.:cool::cool: ]]> skullandbones https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?370-Engine-Blog-First-302-experience-Intake-manifold