Factory Five Forums - Blogs - oldguy668 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?26-oldguy668 Builder community site for Factory Five Racing. en Mon, 04 May 2026 23:33:19 GMT vBulletin 10 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/misc/rss.jpg Factory Five Forums - Blogs - oldguy668 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?26-oldguy668 Titling and registering in Massachusetts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?336-Titling-and-registering-in-Massachusetts Tue, 10 Jan 2012 01:16:44 GMT Download and print this form: http://www.mass.gov/rmv/forms/20176.pdf Go to any RMV office and pay them the $50 fee. Be sure to get a receipt...
Download and print this form:
http://www.mass.gov/rmv/forms/20176.pdf

Go to any RMV office and pay them the $50 fee. Be sure to get a receipt for the payment. If the clerk does not know what to do, ask him(her) to call the Title Division. Remember, all they have to do is take the money and give a receipt (plus the original form).

Get ALL your paperwork in order. You'll need the MSO from Factory Five, and receipts showing sales tax paid for all major components. If you bought a used component, you will have to show the VIN of the vehicle it was originally installed in. I brought invoices for engine, trans, tires, rear end and kit. You will need the originals and 2 copies of each document. If you bought lots of parts at swap meets and Ebay, you might be in for a long ordeal. Although the state law says otherwise, the State Police assume EVERYTHING is stolen until you prove otherwise. If you bought a completed car from out of state, you will have to show the title or a registration certificate if it was from a non-title state.

Decide which Salvage Inspection station you want to use and try to find some time for a visit to have the paperwork checked. Some require appointments and some don't, but I never got an answer on the phone number they list for making appointments. I ended up walking in to Haverhill and after a few minutes of abuse, the trooper said the paperwork looked okay. I brought the car in a few days later and got the state issued VIN sticker installed. They'll stamp the receipts and return the originals to you.

Go to your insurance company and get the RMV1 form filled out by them like this:
Model year: 2012
Make: REPLI
Model: Cobra (or '33 Ford or Daytona or GTM)
VIN: Whatever it says on the BLUE state police sticker next to the FFR number
Go to the RMV and wait in line for 45 minutes. You will have to pay sales tax on any components that were invoiced without it (I had to pay $42.00 for my mailorder Nittos). They might have to make a phone call to get clearance for the tax thing, but it shouldn't take more than another hour or two.

Now you can go to your neighborhood inspection station. The computer will take the process through about 15 steps and then spit out a sticker with a big red R on it. That's a reject for emissions and it is good for 60 days.

Next, you can call the Motorist Assistance hotline (866-941-6277) and they'll give you the number for the nearest MAC. Call the MAC and make an appointment. This is really a formality and the tech will get your VIN into the computer as exempt. I did this today and it was no big deal.

Return to the inspection station that gave you the reject sticker and they'll now be able to do a safety only inspection and give you a real sticker.

Happy motoring.

Remember, this is only for cars REGISTERED by April 30. This procedure was worked out to help all the guys who got caught up in the Oct 2008 regulation change. After May 1, it's a whole new game and the rules are still in process.

Also, if you have one of those "1965 Cobra" titles that we all know is false, you have two options. You can either re-register it correctly (as I described above), or leave it as is and risk getting caught. The registry is actively cross-matching their registrations and anything that looks like a mis-described kit car will be flagged. If they nail you after May 1, 2012, you will have to make the car emissions compliant.
]]> oldguy668 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?336-Titling-and-registering-in-Massachusetts Coyote Engine Info posts https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?72-Coyote-Engine-Info-posts Sun, 27 Feb 2011 14:41:38 GMT I'm going to post part numbers as I find them. I'll also post photos of the pan and exhaust headers as they develop.

Heater hoses.

These hoses have the correct ends to mount directly on the Coyote stubs, and are shaped to fit under the engine cover.

Right side hose.......BR3Z-18472-B
Right side bracket...BR3Z-8A082-A
Left side Hose.........BR3Z-18472-D
Left side bracket.....BR3Z=8A082-B

If you don't use a heater, you should still use these hoses so you can cross connect them at the rear and install a tee for your temp gauge sender. The water flow will help keep the head temp consistent when the thermostat is closed. The brackets are optional but provide a neat way to manage the hoses.

Upper Radiator Hose

Unless Ford releases the end connector separately (or FRPP ships it with the motor), you'll need the upper hose just to have the end that connects to the plastic connector on the thermostat bypass housing.

Part number.....BR3Z-8260-B

The lower hose connects to a standard type outlet on the motor.

Oil filter

The standard Motorcraft filter hits the frame tube. Replace it with a Fram PH10060, which is identical except it's .9" shorter.

Header Adapters


Well, thanks to Astglenn and his giant water pistol, these puppies arrived today on the Big Brown Truck.



They drop right on to the studs on the Coyote block.

Glenn and Dave Borden worked out the details so the finished product looks like this



I was a little concerned with alignment, so I asked Glenn to go one step further and make this template for me



Now, all I have to do is scribe the perimeter of the template and cut the excess from the stock flange



So thanks to David and Glenn for working out the initial concept and extra thanks to Glenn for giving in to my whining and making the cutting template.

So now for the bad news! Glenn's plates mate right up, and the nuts have plenty of clearance for various combinations of box wrenches and u-joint sockets, but the back 3 nuts on the driver's side are freaking impossible to get at. I was able to reach them through a hole in the side of the footbox that I cut to gain clearance for the gas pedal foot. Get yourself a 15mm deep socket and an assortment of extensions and u-joints. A 12 pt. 15mm box wrench will come in handy.


Hole in my Block!

The modular family of engines have a torque converter bolt access hole in the back of the block opposite the starter. The 5.0 crate engines do not come with the plug you'll need (at least mine didn't). The correct part number for the plastic plug is F65Z-6C070-AB. About six bucks.

Using that expensive upper hose

I hate waste, and having to buy a pricey hose just to get one connector isn't how I roll. The upper hose almost works, but a few tweaks made it perfect. Plus, my car is an all black motif so the black nylon covering on the hose fits right in. Here's the finished product:



I took 5.5" out of the section upstream of the first 90 degree bend in the hose (save the piece you cut out). I bought a 1.5" 45 degree mandrel bend from Race Parts Solutions and cut about 2.5" from each end of that (save the pieces again). I then used the hose cutoff (about 2.5" of it) to connect the 45 to the radiator inlet and then used one of the cutoffs from the 45 to reconnect the hose where it was cut. The fancy clamps are a little too "in my face", so I might replace the pair at the splice with Gates Powergrip heatshrink clamps.

Lower Radiator Hose.

Yes, folks, the 1023 hose really works...you just have to do a little "convincing". Here's the unmolested 1023 hose (that I bought 6 years ago for my MK 2 but couldn't make it work).



The orange lines are where I want to cut it. The dimensions are approximate and not critical.

Here's the orientation before it was cut, but the hashmarks were applied during the mockup stage





Here's the same area but after I twisted the hose about 10 degrees (with a 1.5" aluminum sleeve inside)





The other cut is very similar. No reversing the pieces or swapping the ends. Just a few degrees of twist is all it takes. Here's the "before" orientation






Here's the finished product ready for clamps.




The hose fits the Coyote inlet fitting perfectly, and snakes down through the space between the rack and the X-member. Right where it passes through, I intend to add a rubber sleeve because it might sag and touch when there's water in it. Other than that, there's no need to tie it down (or up). It clears the steering shaft, the frame tow hook and everything in between. ]]> oldguy668 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?72-Coyote-Engine-Info-posts