Factory Five Forums - Blogs - Terminator Roadster Build by cChrisM - MK3 7011 by cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?153-Terminator-Roadster-Build-by-cChrisM-MK3-7011 Builder community site for Factory Five Racing. en Sat, 02 May 2026 22:29:44 GMT vBulletin 10 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/misc/rss.jpg Factory Five Forums - Blogs - Terminator Roadster Build by cChrisM - MK3 7011 by cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/blog.php?153-Terminator-Roadster-Build-by-cChrisM-MK3-7011 GRADUATION DAY!!!!! FR 7011 is street legal in NJ https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1340-GRADUATION-DAY!!!!!-FR-7011-is-street-legal-in-NJ Mon, 28 Apr 2025 12:45:05 GMT I finally did it. What a journey this was. I got plates for my roadster on 4/25/25. PIcked up the kit on 6/20/09 - 15 years and 10 months. ... I finally did it. What a journey this was.

I got plates for my roadster on 4/25/25. PIcked up the kit on 6/20/09 - 15 years and 10 months.

Here it is. Will try to list the mods another time as they are extensive.

4.6L V8 Supercharged, IRS, T56 6 speed.

As many find, life gets in the way of the dream including 4 kids, working in NYC everyday with late nights, and walking away from the project when issues seem unsolveable.

Thanks to both forums, the many friends I made along the way, all the great vendors, my families patience and Sergio who inspired me to pick this engine combo.

Here is my baby.
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]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1340-GRADUATION-DAY!!!!!-FR-7011-is-street-legal-in-NJ NJ Inspection - PASSED! https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1338-NJ-Inspection-PASSED! Thu, 20 Mar 2025 20:40:14 GMT 2/14/2025 - Passed NJ Inspection In NJ there you need to complete a build log detailing how the build took place, show all receipts, pictures,... 2/14/2025 - Passed NJ Inspection

In NJ there you need to complete a build log detailing how the build took place, show all receipts, pictures, show engine serial numbers, FFR frame numbers, etc. You then need to take the vehcile to a special inspection station where they review Reconstruction/Specialty Constructed Vehicles including Salvage vehicles.

The inspection station was County Ave and Secaucus Rd, Secaucus, NJ

It took me a long time to get here, not only the build, but I used a donor vehicle. My bad was that I never took the donor title and put it in my name. When checking with DMV on my build log they mentioned I needed a title in my name. So this should be easy, except when I got to DMV they said the title was stolen and not in the system. I got it from an Insurance Auction so was pretty sure it was good. Went to another DMV and got someone to work with me and advised I needed to call the sate of issue of the donor title (MS). I called and got someone and advised the title does not exist and its not real. Called back got another person and they took the time to look in the local MS system and found the title. It was never put in the national registery. This took about a month to happen. Then I went to DMV and everytime I was there I got a different reason why the title was no good. I eventually got it all squared away and the title in my name. I submitted the build log and waited. Weeks later I got a call that I was good to go and had to pay taxes on the receipts I submitted. Fine, whatever, paid approx $800 to NJ and was told I could schedule an inspection.

The inspection station is different than when I had helped a fellow builder years ago. They didn't put it on a lift and did not check emissions or measure the sound of the exhaust. The biggest issue was the engine number. The engine I have does not have a block number. The tech hooked up the OBD2 and got the vin from the computer and signed off on the engine.

The main items they checked:
lights, high beams, directionals, wipers, reverse light, break lights, driving lights, mileage on odometer, and frame number.

The inspection took about an hour and they signed off on it. They did ask for the Vin Plate that FFR provides when you buy the kit. I had it with me as the FFR number will become the Vin #. They said I should have attached it to the car in the engine bay. I told him I would do it as soon as I got home.

A very happy day. I now wait for the title to come in the mail, then I can register it and take it to the NJ standard inspection station all cars go to.

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]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1338-NJ-Inspection-PASSED! Wheels and Tires https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1199-Wheels-and-Tires Fri, 07 Oct 2016 13:07:39 GMT For my build I wanted to have better performance and decided on the 17" rim. Plus in NJ, to pass inspection you need 17" rims, their test is the frame must be off the ground if all tires were flat and just sitting on the rim.

At first I was thinking of a custom CCW rims, but finally decided to go with the traditional route and called Richard at North Racecars as he is the resident expert on wheels and tires for these cars. For what its worth the wheels that came with my kit (FFR promotional) did not fit my setup and hit the brake calipers, wrong offset, so they were quickly sold to another forum member.

The go to tire was the Kumho Ecsta, however, they seem to be hard to come by these days. I ended up deciding on the Nitto tire and liked the NT5, There was a good sale running on Discount Tire and picked up the following:
Front: 255/40/17
Rear: 315/35/17

Ideally, I should have had the front being 245/45 as the 255/40 are a little smaller in diameter compared to the rears. May give the car a nice rake, but won't fill the wheel well as much. Plus the 245 would fit in the wheel well better. Some go with the 275's and they seem to stick out a little from the fender.

Santa arrives again:
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Test Fit and they are perfect:
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Now that I have my new shiny rims and tires, where do I get them mounted. I recently went to a Mavis shop near me to get some tires remounted and balanced. Watching them work on a Porsche, the guy had the rim on edge and working on another tire. The rim starts to roll out of the shop and just before leaving he building the manager runs over and grabs it. So it won't be them. I mention this to my neighbor who is an avid car guy and his future son in law works at a Mercedes dealer in the parts dept. Well before you know it they are sending their parts truck to pick up by wheels and tires. I figured if they can work on super expensive cars they can work on mine. As the work is getting done they send me updates. The car that got new shoes before mine was an AMG GTS with 515HP and cost approx. $150k
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The guys and the equipment:
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The finished product:
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$60 worth of beer and pizza and a big smile on my face.
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]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1199-Wheels-and-Tires Why the 2003 Mustang Cobra SVT Terminator as a Donor? - Stock Specs https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1184-Why-the-2003-Mustang-Cobra-SVT-Terminator-as-a-Donor-Stock-Specs Tue, 15 Sep 2015 03:00:28 GMT 2003 SVT Mustang Cobra http://racing.ford.com/enthusiasts/collector-vehicles/svt/mustang-cobra/2003.html Everything you need to know about the... 2003 SVT Mustang Cobra [url]http://racing.ford.com/enthusiasts/collector-vehicles/svt/mustang-cobra/2003.html[/url]

Everything you need to know about the Terminator: [url]http://www.terminator-cobra.com/index.htm[/url]

Introduced during 2002 as a 2003 model, the SVT Cobra took modern Mustang horsepower to all-new heights with the move to a new, Eaton supercharged DOHC 4.6-liter Terminator V-8. It also featured a standard 6-speed gearbox, redesigned front and rear fascias, new heat-extraction hood, special rocker moldings and side scoops, and several new interior appointments.

Engine
Type: 90-degree, DOHC 32-Valve supercharged V-8
Displacement: 4.6L / 281 CID
Horsepower: 390 hp @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 390 lbs.-ft. @ 3500 rpm
Bore x Stroke: 3.55 in. x 3.54 in.
Compression: 8.5:1

Suspension
Front: Modified MacPherson strut system gas-charged Bilstein monotube dampeners and separate 600 lb./in. (500 lb./in. on convertible) spring on lower arm, 29mm tubular stabilizer bar
Rear: Multi-link independent, cast-iron upper control arm, aluminum lower control arm, gas-charged Bilstein monotube shock absorbers, 600 lb./in. (470 lb./in. on convertible) coil spring, 26mm tubular stabilizer bar

Brakes
Front: 13 in. vented Brembo disc, PBR twin-piston caliper
Rear: 11.65 in. vented disc, single-piston caliper
ABS: Four channel, four-sensor ABS system

Wheels/Tires
Wheels: 17 x 9 in. 5-spoke cast aluminum
Tires: Goodyear Eagle F1 P275/40ZR-17

Performance
0-60 mph: 4.8 seconds (Motor Trend)
60-0 mph braking: 116 feet (Motor Trend)
1/4-mile @ MPH: 13.01 seconds @ 110.7 mph (Motor Trend)

Production
Total Produced: 13,476
Total Coupe Produced: 8,394
- Black: 2,251
Total Convertible Produced: 5,082

[url]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang_SVT_Cobra[/url]

2003–2004[edit]
New Edge Modular SVT Mustang Cobra (Supercharged) Terminator
Black 2003-2004 Ford Mustang IV SVT Cobra.jpg
Overview
Manufacturer Ford Motor Company
Production 2003–2004
19,140 produced
Powertrain
Engine 390 HP 4.6 L supercharged DOHC Modular V8
Transmission 6-speed T-56 manual
Dimensions
Wheelbase 101.3 in (2,573 mm)
Length 183.5 in (4,661 mm)
Width 73.1 in (1,857 mm)
Height SVT Cobra Coupe: 52.5 in (1,334 mm)
SVT Cobra Convertible: 52.9 in (1,344 mm)
Curb weight Coupe: 3,665 lb (1,662 kg)
Convertible: 3,780 lb (1,715 kg)
2003[edit]
Debuting in early 2002, the 2003 Cobra, code named "Terminator" by the SVT development crew, lead by John Coletti,[6] came with a supercharged 4.6 L DOHC engine. Numerous improvements were made to the power train and drive line to handle the increase from the previous model year. A cast iron block was used instead of aluminum, with stronger internals, including forged Zolner pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods that were modified with a wrist pin oiling hole by the SVT engine builders. These upgrades were critical in order to support the 8 psi (0.55 bar) of boost delivered from the stock Eaton M112 roots supercharger. Other improvements include the use of an aluminum flywheel connected to a Tremec T-56 six-speed transmission, 3.55:1 rear axle ratio and stronger 31 spline half shafts with revised upper and lower control arms. These modifications launched the Cobra from 0-60 mph in 4.5 seconds and the quarter mile in the mid to high 12's at over 110 mph.

The new Cobra also had exterior differences: It featured a new front bumper with integrated spoiler, a new rear bumper with a black insert, visually integrating the exhaust pipes, a hood with functional dual scoops, newly designed side scoops and foldback mirrors painted in the body color. The side skirts were designed specifically for the 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra body kit, featuring a smooth body line from the door to the bottom of the car. Compared to the 99-02 Cobras, which had the taillights taken from the Canadian Mustang, featuring a yellow turn signal, the 03-04 Cobra used the standard Mustang taillights which were all red, eliminating the distinctive yellow blinker. SVT also introduced new 17" rims on the 03-04 model. Finally, the 03-04 Cobra sported a new decklid spoiler with an integrated LED brake light, as opposed to the wings seen on the older Cobras and the standard Mustangs.

2003 10th anniversary edition[edit]
For 2003, SVT offered a limited-edition Tenth Anniversary Cobra to celebrate 10 years since the introduction of the first Cobra in 1993. It featured split seven spoke Dark Argent 17"x9" alloy wheels, red inserts in the door panels, red painted brake calipers, red leather inserts in the seats, and special Tenth Anniversary badging on the decklid and floormats. SVT produced 2,003 units of the Anniversary model, 1,000 convertible and 1,003 coupe models. Anniversary models were only available in Black (775 models), Torch Red (734 models), and Silver Metallic (494 models).

2004[edit]
The 2004 Cobra was much the same as the 2003 Cobra with a few minor updates, including new paint color options (Screaming Yellow, Competition Orange and Mystichrome (see below), a slightly updated exhaust system, rumors of up to 20+ more horsepower than the 2003, as well as some minor interior changes.

2004 Mystichrome Cobra[edit]
As a special for 2004, SVT brought back the MystiChrome Cobra paint scheme from 1996. The color changes from a bright, metallic topaz which then transitions to cobalt blue, then to royal purple, and finally into a deep onyx black. This color variant was produced 1010 times, 515 as coupes and 495 as convertibles. These cars came with the chromed 17" SVT wheels as a standard. They also featured color-shifting leather inserts in the seating surfaces and in the steering wheel. The color is very expensive, thus any kind of damage is problematic, and it takes a lot of research to find the original. The color was originally designed by DuPont, but sold to BASF, who finally supplied the color to Ford. The color is called "2004 Ford Mustang Cobra Mystic Chrome Metallic" and costs about US$150/pint.[7]

A definitive history of this model and John Coletti's SVT operations was captured in the non-fiction book Iron Fist, Lead Foot by Frank Moriarty.

2003 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra Technical Data

Engine
Configuration
Longitudinally mounted, 90-degree V-8, cast iron block with aluminum heads, fully counterweighted forged crankshaft
Bore x Stroke
90.2mm x 90.0mm
Displacement
4,601cc; 280 cu. in.

Compression ratio
8.5:1

Horsepower
390 @ 6,000 rpm

Torque
390 @ 3,500 rpm

Specific output
84.8 horsepower per liter

Redline
6,500 rpm (fuel shut-off occurs at 6,500 rpm)

Valvetrain
Double overhead camshafts, chain drive to exhaust cams, secondary chains from exhaust to intake cams, roller finger followers with hydraulic lash adjustment, oval-wire beehive-shaped valve springs, four valves per cylinder

Intake valves
2 per cylinder, 37mm head diameter

Exhaust valves
2 per cylinder, 30mm head diameter

Ignition system
Distributorless coil-on-plug

Fuel system
Sequential electronic fuel injection

Induction system
Eaton™ Corporation Generation IV Roots- type supercharger with water-to-air intercooler

Boost pressure
8.0 psi maximum

Intake manifold
Cast aluminum, tuned equal-length runners

Throttle body
57mm twin bore

Mass-air sensor
90mm diameter

Exhaust manifolds
Cast iron

Exhaust system
Dual, stainless steel, 2.25-in. diameter; 3.0-in. polished exhaust tips

Drivetrain

Rear axle
8.8-in. ring gear with 3.55:1 limited-slip differential, aluminum case
Driveshaft
Aluminum, with hardened yoke, 1350 U-Joints
Transmission
TTC T-56 6-speed manual

Clutch
11.0-in. single-plate

Half-Shafts
31-spline with increased capacity

Gear Ratio
1st - 2.66
2nd - 1.78
3rd - 1.30
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.80
6th - 0.63
Reverse - 2.90
Final Drive - 3.55

Suspension - front
Modified Macpherson strut system with gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube dampers and separate 600 lb./in. coil springs (500 lb./in. on convertible), 29mm tubular stabilizer bar

Suspension - rear
Multi-link independent system, cast-iron upper control arms, aluminum lower control arms, fixed toe-control tie rods, aluminum spindles, gas-charged Bilstein™ monotube dampers, 600 lb./in. coil springs (470 lb./in. on convertible), 26mm tubular stabilizer bar

Steering Type
Rack and pinion, power assist

Gear Ratio
15.0:1

Turns Lock-to-Lock - 2.5 (some advised this is 2.38)

Turning Diameter - 41.7 ft.

Brakes-front
13.0 in. (330mm) vented Brembo™ disc, PBR™ twin-piston caliper

Brakes-rear
11.65 in. (296mm) vented disc, single-piston caliper

ABS
Four-channel, four-sensor system

Wheels
17 x 9 in., five-spoke, cast aluminum-alloy, machined surface, exposed lugs, optional chrome wheel available

Tires
Goodyear™ Eagle F1, 275/40ZR-17
Dimensions

Wheelbase
101.3 in. (2,573mm)

Length
183.5 in. (4,661mm)

Height
Coupe 52.5 in. (1,336mm)

Convertible 52.9 in. (1,344mm)

Width
73.1 in. (1,857mm)

Track (front and rear)
60.3 in. (1,530mm)

Head room, f/r
38.1 in. / 35.5 in. (968mm / 901mm)

Leg room, f/r
41.8 in. / 29.9 in. (1,062mm / 759mm)

Curb weight
Coupe 3,665 lb. (1,662 kg)

Convertible 3,780 lb. (1,715 kg)

Fuel capacity
15.7 gallons (59.4 liters)

Weight distribution, f/r
57% / 43%

Color and Trim

Exterior
Oxford White Clearcoat, Ebony Clearcoat, Torch Red Clearcoat, Sonic Blue Clearcoat Metallic, Satin Silver Clearcoat Metallic, Mineral Grey Clearcoat Metallic, Zinc Yellow Clearcoat

Interior
Dark Charcoal with either Medium Parchment or Medium Graphite accents ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1184-Why-the-2003-Mustang-Cobra-SVT-Terminator-as-a-Donor-Stock-Specs EGR Tube https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1145-EGR-Tube Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:35:48 GMT Since I am keeping all emissions and keeping the motor stock (for now). I needed to figure out the EGR Tube. This tube basically takes exhaust... Since I am keeping all emissions and keeping the motor stock (for now). I needed to figure out the EGR Tube. This tube basically takes exhaust gases from the manifold and send it back into the intake to be re-burned for a cleaner exhaust/emission. Many delete this as putting dirty hot exhaust into your engine is not something most of us can imagine. However, if Ford and all other Mfgs do it and engines seem to last, I guess it isn't all that bad. :confused:

In short the stock tube needed to be extended to the front of the engine. Also had to have clearance for the engine mount, the oil filter/cooler and make a sharp turn into the fitting on the manifold.

So how to solve this one. First the Terminator has a very good exhaust manifold and from reading different articles performs pretty well considering what it is. The manifold is flipped so the opening is at the front of the engine. The manifold had a treaded compression fitting for the EGR. It is an odd tread and fitting not easily found, so I used the fittings for both ends of the original EGR tube. I also got a second EGR tube donated by jcurti2 to help with the extra bends and to have a backup for the just in case. The EGR tube is stainless steel 3/4 tubing. I also used a section of the donor Fuel Vapor Return line which was the same size SS tubing. My brother helped me cut up the pieces and fit the jig saw puzzle together. We got it all rough cut and ready to be tack welded to fit perfect. Problem was I don't have a TIG welder and renting one was not going to be cheap or easy. Ugh, another problem to solve.

Thanks to a great FFR community. I put out a plea for help on the other forum for a TIG welder in my area. By the end of the day I got a response from Stage7 (Roberto) who responded to my thread. The following Sunday he came to the house and TIG'd up the EGR tube pieces I had rough cut. Stage7 had his work cut out for him as the OEM tubing is not a nice mandrel bend, more like a triangle. He did a great job considering. All he asked of me was to provide a bottle of gas. Oh and the best part, return the favor and work on his RCR Superlite. :) Thanks again to Stage7, great guy with some great welding skills and new car buddy.

Here are some pics of it all. It is now ceramic coated silver and has a heat barrier. Another problem solved.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-22_21-02-14_295_zpsa455fc64.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-22_21-02-21_503_zps70e23343.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-22_21-02-51_24_zps4e877da0.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-22_21-03-12_616_zps94a2e0b9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-24_17-18-10_905_zps7d3ce063.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-24_17-18-33_582_zpsff2f11aa.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2013-02-24_17-34-39_864_zps626171f3.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1145-EGR-Tube Dropped Trunk Mod, Touring Trunk Mod, Body Mounting Point Mod https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1120-Dropped-Trunk-Mod-Touring-Trunk-Mod-Body-Mounting-Point-Mod Thu, 17 Oct 2013 03:31:08 GMT The MK3 is well known for the purky butt, basically a hump in the fiberglass trunk. In addition when viewed from the rear of the car, you could see... The MK3 is well known for the purky butt, basically a hump in the fiberglass trunk. In addition when viewed from the rear of the car, you could see the gas tank under the body. One way people were fixing this issue was to lower the body to hide the gas tank and make the purky trunk less noticeable. My plan was to either mod the fiberglass or buy a different trunk lid. I also followed the well documented dropped trunk mod by CobraDVM. [url]http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/230055-how-i-did-my-dropped-butt-mod.html[/url]

There are two versions a half drop which does not require welding and a full drop which I went with. Basically the lower mounting point for the body becomes the top and a new lower mounting point is welded in. In addition the side 3/4 square tube is removed and rewelded allowing the body to lower enough to completely hide the gas tank. The interior trunk of the MK3 had a two tier trunk space, There was lots of room between the tank and the aluminum. The early version of the MK4 had a lowered trunk, so I bought the new version aluminum and rewelded the trunk cross braces to make more storage room. Even with this mod, I had room to add a lowered area for the fuel system controls.
This mod took a little time but is one of the best mods to improve the look of the car.
Original trunk design
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Picking%20Up%20Kit%206%2020%2009/DSCF0155.jpg[/IMG]
Rewelded trunk area
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0010-3.jpg[/IMG]
Early MK4 trunk aluminum
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0007-4.jpg[/IMG]
The last two pics show the new mounting for the body in the rear and the cut and lowered rear hoop and side pieced lowered. The aluminum needed to be trimmed as well on the sides.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0148-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0147-1.jpg[/IMG]
Gas tank is hidden
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/dropbutt2_zpsd9a9309f.jpg[/IMG]
On the right side you can see the top hole which was the original mounting location, no longer used. The new design I don't need to get behind the body to get a nut on the mounting bolt.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/IMG_20130825_125935_020_zps7f719d98.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1120-Dropped-Trunk-Mod-Touring-Trunk-Mod-Body-Mounting-Point-Mod Steering https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1119-Steering Thu, 17 Oct 2013 02:37:29 GMT The plan with the build was to use as much from the Mustang as possible, ie power brakes, steering, ABS, traction control, etc. The 2003 Mustang... The plan with the build was to use as much from the Mustang as possible, ie power brakes, steering, ABS, traction control, etc.

The 2003 Mustang used a Hydro boost system which powered the brakes and steering. The hydro boost unit needed to be modified for mounting. Part of the unit had to be removed so an aluminum mounting spacer could be added.

The 99-04 Mustang V8's steering rack came with a 2.62 lock to lock turn ratio. The 03 Cobra had an improved 2.38 lock to lock and also incorporated built in limiters to handle wider tires. The Terminator steering rack has generally been considered an upgrade from previous Mustangs. The Terminator rack benefits from an increase in thickness of what is known as the torsion bar, or "T-bar", which gives the rack its firmer feel. The torsion bar is actually a part of the spool valve assembly which composes the pinion, as in "Rack-and-Pinion".[url]http://www.terminator-cobra.com/images/Pinion.jpg[/url] In addition, the SN-95 Mustangs in Cobra & GT form use the higher-flowing Motorcraft C-III pump for better assist. The T-bar, it fits inside the spool valve and is connected to the steering shaft at one end, and the pinion gear at the other. In essence, it acts as a spring, and the twist of the T-bar is what controls the flow of fluid through the valve assembly. The thicker the T-bar, the "harder" it is to turn the wheel, giving the rack more of a "firm" feel. In the case of the Terminator, the T-bar has a thickness of a 0.230". If you wanted an even firmer feel, the next step up would be to a 2000 Cobra R rack, which I believe has a slightly thicker 0.245" T-bar (although I have heard many variations on that).

[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0060_zps34c385c8.jpg[/IMG]

Mounting the steering rack. At build school they advised to get the offset aluminum bushings from Breeze which centers, lowers, and pushes the rack forward. This will reduce bump steer, which is the darty steering you get when going over bumps. The donor has rubber bushings as well so the solid aluminum would provide better steering response. The mod required grinding the frame to get the rack in the correct spot and allow the rubber boots to fit.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0017-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0018-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0020.jpg[/IMG]
The donor has a power steering cooler which consisted of a long loop for the power steering fluid that wrapped around the front of the car. I opted for a small cooler mounted out of sight. Over kill compared to the donor. Welded in some tabs (not shown in below) and a bracket for easy mounting.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0006-2.jpg[/IMG]
Next step was to install steering shaft. Since the alternator is in the way, I followed Sergio and added a knuckle to go around the alternator. What I later found out was that when flipping the exhaust manifold around it would hit the alternator, so the alternator had to be moved to the passenger side of the engine. There goes my hope of having Air Conditioning. With the alternator moved I sold my modified steering to another Terminator builder and got his straight shaft. A ton of fabrication and time down the drain.
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The next step was to make power steering lines out of AN Fittings and lines. Followed diagram from other builders.
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Mounted the powersteering resivior on the driver side off the frame, normally it is connected to the motor.
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Moved alternator to passenger side via a bracket from Wayne Presley (modified original bracket)
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0150.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1119-Steering Foot Box Mod - Aluminum https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1113-Foot-Box-Mod-Aluminum Wed, 16 Oct 2013 03:29:14 GMT On the Driver's side I made a bump out so there is more room with the dead pedal.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0067_zpsb2b7db9e.jpg[/IMG]
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I may bump out the gas pedal side down the road, but for now it seems ok with the Russ Thompson Gas Pedal. The other mod for the driver's side was a access panel from the engine compartment. I wanted it to appear seamless. So I used rivnuts and and button heads screws to make the largest panel I could. I created a wedge off the firewall and under the body it will slide under the footbox panel with standoffs. It takes a little time to remove but came out nice I think.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/IMG_1122_zps25434843.jpg[/IMG]
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[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/IMG_1123_zpsb26f755d.jpg[/IMG]

On the driver's side I also replaced the forward panel that the steering, wiring, throttle cable, etc pass through. It seemed too piece meal with the original. FFMetal sells a nice blank piece which you can cut as needed.

On the passenger side, I ended up redoing the entire foot box, getting the interior as close to the engine as possible and extending it past the curved tubing. Lots of room now. The original design I could barely get my two feet side by side in the footbox. Now room to spare.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0004-8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0005-8.jpg[/IMG]
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[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0007-9.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1113-Foot-Box-Mod-Aluminum Foot Box Mods https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1112-Foot-Box-Mods Wed, 16 Oct 2013 02:00:05 GMT First Mod to the foot box was to move the curved bar out to the corner to get more room for a dead pedal. I opted not the cut the lower curved tube... First Mod to the foot box was to move the curved bar out to the corner to get more room for a dead pedal. I opted not the cut the lower curved tube and welded in and boxed a mounting point for the down tube. I also picked up some thick tubing to go inside the cut tube to reinforce it.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0001-4.jpg[/IMG]
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Finished product with dead pedal
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[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0055_zps2d12ccda.jpg[/IMG]

2x2 tube welded at angle so heal does't hit.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0007-11.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0008-6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0094_zpsf0ee665d.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1112-Foot-Box-Mods <![CDATA[Frame Mods Continued - Notching 4" Cross Tube]]> https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1111-Frame-Mods-Continued-Notching-4-quot-Cross-Tube Wed, 16 Oct 2013 01:35:58 GMT Notching the 4" cross tube to fit lower crank.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Fitting%20motor%20and%20notch/IMG_0099.jpg[/IMG]
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Plate fitted and welded.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/2012-08-16_18-27-32_619_zpsb18e94df.jpg[/IMG]
The final product
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/The%20Build/DSCF0086_zps6ceb8789.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1111-Frame-Mods-Continued-Notching-4-quot-Cross-Tube Let the Frame Mods Begin https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1110-Let-the-Frame-Mods-Begin Tue, 15 Oct 2013 02:13:45 GMT I knew going into this project (thanks to Sergio Venomxs.com) I would either have to notch the frame to clear the supercharger pulley crank or raise... I knew going into this project (thanks to Sergio Venomxs.com) I would either have to notch the frame to clear the supercharger pulley crank or raise the engine and have possible hood clearance issues. I decided to notch the frame and have enough clearance for a larger lower pulley. As you may know once you get comfortable with one mod, you break the ice and everything is fair game. The game plan was to mock up the entire car then send out for powder coat. Even though the build took a lot longer I am glad I took this approach. I also got the fame uncoated so the weld splatter could be addressed and any an all mods including welding would be a lot easier.

Life is fun with a 220v Mig Welder in the garage. First step, get brother in law electrician to put in sub panel.

Here is a list of frame mods:

1. Front cross 4" tube - notched to fit lower pulley on the Terminator engine.
2. Foot Box Driver and Passenger, cut the 2x2 square tube and created a slope so heel would not hit.
3. Drop But Mod. The lower mounting hole became the top and added lower mounting. Welded in studs to ease mounting and not reaching for nuts near the tank. Also cut and modded the rear side and cross 3/4" sq tube to allow the body to fully drop. This results in the gas tank being completly hidden.
4. Added mounting taps for the charcoal canister on the driver's side.
5. Welded in nuts for grounding points
6. Cut and weld 3/4 tubing to provide a droped trunk. Aluminum was purchased from FFR for the early MK4 version before they changed it back. Allows additional storage
7. Added brackets for electrical system on driver and passenger engine compartment.
8. Added brackets for the coolant overflow and the heat exchanger overflow.
9. Cut out 3/4 tube and added curved tube behind the cockpit bulkhead, allowing room for storage compartment.
10. Cut 3/4 tube that interferred with shifter and relocated.
11. Added framing for grab bar behind dash.
12. Added bracket for wiper motor, secure attachment with two bolts.
13. Added brackets for dash attachments at sides.
14. Numerous brackets welded to the frame for mounting items
15. Welded in new rear body mounting points.
16. Welded on rear tow hooks below IRS
17. Modify roll bars and mounting points

First step, fit the engine and see how everything fits.
dropping in engine for the first time.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Fitting%20motor%20and%20notch/IMG_0095.jpg[/IMG]
Mandatory pretend I'm done and driving pic. vroom, vroom
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Fitting%20motor%20and%20notch/IMG_0086.jpg[/IMG]
Its tight
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Firewall to back of engine, lots of room for future mod.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Fitting%20motor%20and%20notch/IMG_0093.jpg[/IMG]
Ebrake mounting had to be removed so the transmission could be pushed as far to the passenger side as possible to gain clearance on driver's side footbox. Notice brace needs to be moved for shifter.
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Fitting%20motor%20and%20notch/IMG_0090.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1110-Let-the-Frame-Mods-Begin Getting the new arrival settled into its new home https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1108-Getting-the-new-arrival-settled-into-its-new-home Sat, 12 Oct 2013 05:13:23 GMT Once we got the kit unloaded, took lots of pictures and marked the panels. Put the body on the body buck. Noticed the mold release, nasty. Then... Once we got the kit unloaded, took lots of pictures and marked the panels. Put the body on the body buck. Noticed the mold release, nasty. Then got it settled in the garage.

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[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Picking%20Up%20Kit%206%2020%2009/DSCF0165.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1108-Getting-the-new-arrival-settled-into-its-new-home Order the Kit and Pick it up. FFR 7011 https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1107-Order-the-Kit-and-Pick-it-up-FFR-7011 Sat, 12 Oct 2013 05:11:07 GMT Now that the donor has been disassembled, its time pick up the kit. I have to say Factory Five was very good with my order and allowed me to delay... Now that the donor has been disassembled, its time pick up the kit. I have to say Factory Five was very good with my order and allowed me to delay it awhile. Placed order on 9/2/08 and picked it up on 6/20/09. I was also able to mix and match items during one of their sales to get the parts I needed and avoid the ones I didn't need. I tried to pick up the kit the same time as the Open House but that wasn't going to work for FFR or me. So I went to the Open House and the following weekend drove up to pick up the kit. This allowed for a unique experience in that I got a picture of my frame in the welding area during the open house with its build sheet. I have to say I get pumped up every time I am at Factory Five in Wareham.

My neighbor has a buddy that loan me his trailer. A little overkill on the trailer but free is free. It was a great road trip with my Dad picking up the kit and driving it home. Hit a little rain coming home but no biggie, first rust stains take hold on the new frame. My Dad helped me with the body buck before picking up the kit. Garage cleaned out and ready for its new tenant.

Build Sheet at FFR
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Picking%20Up%20Kit%206%2020%2009/DSCF0059.jpg[/IMG]
Frame in the welding booth at FFR during open house
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[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Picking%20Up%20Kit%206%2020%2009/DSCF0107.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1107-Order-the-Kit-and-Pick-it-up-FFR-7011 The Donor Tear Down https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1106-The-Donor-Tear-Down Sat, 12 Oct 2013 04:50:21 GMT I have to say there is not better way to understand a car than to tear it apart. You get a perspective of how things go together. The good news is... I have to say there is not better way to understand a car than to tear it apart. You get a perspective of how things go together. The good news is that this donor was registered in Tx, so it was a snow free car and was in excellent condition considering. Most items were very clean. As an item came off the car, I cleaned it up took some pictures and posted it online for sale. Today I have sold over $7,500 in parts off the car. Apparently there are a number of GT owners out there that want to make their car look like a Cobra.

What I used on the car:
Engine, transmission, rear differential, part of the driveshaft, outer and inner CV joints from IRS, Cobra 13" front brakes, rear 11.5" brakes, front S95 spindles, hydroboost, power steering rack, gas tank (baffled) with dual in tank pumps, gas filler tube and cap, returnless fuel system Evap Canister and purge canister, cooling fan, heat exchanger pump, radiator overflow tank, heat exchanger tank, exhaust manifolds, aftermarket air intake, wiring harness, cruise control unit, ABS unit, pedal box, clutch cable, dash pod, computer, plus all the brackets, hoses, nuts and bolts and the wheels and tires so far all for less than $4k.

Not a bad deal if I do say so myself. And I still have more to sell. From full car to shell.

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Registration on windshield show a Tx car
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Neighbors come out to see the heart of the beast
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Big Brother helps with the last of the tear down
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The shell's final resting place
[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Donor%20tear%20down/IMG_0011.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1106-The-Donor-Tear-Down The Donor - 2003 Mustang Cobra - The Terminator - Donor car with 25k miles https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1105-The-Donor-2003-Mustang-Cobra-The-Terminator-Donor-car-with-25k-miles Sat, 12 Oct 2013 04:16:25 GMT Now that I was really to build the ultimate car, I needed the ultimate donor. The 2003 Mustang Cobra Terminator. I decided the best option was to... Now that I was really to build the ultimate car, I needed the ultimate donor. The 2003 Mustang Cobra Terminator.

I decided the best option was to get an actual donor as the pallet option left too many unknowns. I searched all the sites, Craigslist, Ebay, Car Forums and never seemed to be quick enough or committed enough to put out the money wrecks were going for. So I joined a couple of online insurance auction broker sites. These sites you bid online. The highest bidder's offer is taken to the actual auction. What I didn't know is that the broker could actually get the car for much lower than your winning online bid and they pocket the difference. Well i would search everyday for the few Terminators that would come up. I also didn't want one that was too banged up. I kept losing on the bidding. After months and months, I decided I needed to raise my limit and won an auction. I was so excited I won. Then the overwhelming feeling of what have I done??? I just spent $10,900 on a wrecked Mustang that I never saw before. Brilliant!!! Then you get hit with taxes and fees and have a few days to arrange shipping from FL to NJ. Another large bill. Won Donor on 7/10/08.

The donor finally arrives on 7/21/08, and I am away on business. The car is on a car carrier like the dealers use, two level giant thing. They can't get close to the house so my wife meets them at the nearby major roadway. She calls a flatbed to drop it off at the house. The wife's tolerance is extremely high and she was a great sport dealing with it all. I was so excited to see the car in person. The online site gave plenty of pictures but nothing is like sitting in it and touching it. I was so excited I even washed it. The neighbors all came over to ask when I got the car and when I crashed it.

Another tid bit, the cars get man handled at the auction site. The exhaust was dented from the forklift they must have used to move the car around. The rear bumper was a little more mangled from being apparently pushed around. The tail lights were broken and other lose items were torn from the car and thrown in the trunk for transporting.

The battery was dead so I charged it. The radiator was destroyed but the motor looked in tact. The oil looked good. So I crossed my finger and turned the key. VVVrrroooom!!!! What a beautiful noises. It Worked!!
As soon as I started it, I turned it off.
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[IMG]http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss43/cChrisM/Donor%20tear%20down/cobra3.jpg[/IMG] ]]> cChrisM https://v1.thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1105-The-Donor-2003-Mustang-Cobra-The-Terminator-Donor-car-with-25k-miles