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skullandbones

Starting the Computer Install

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I've been reading like mad to get a head start on the computer installation for the tunable ECU that I got. Most of it is pretty simple mechanically but there are many small steps and every one can determine success or failure. As an example, the setup of the vehicle has to be configured in the ECU with short jumpers to let the computer know it's a V8, stock ignition, running BAP or not. Thankfully, mine is a simple setup. I plan on going with DIS later but that will be configured then. Another reason for this choice is it's versatility.

I will change out the stock ECU for the new one which fits in just like the EEC-IV (so nice for the Mustang crowd). It turned out that my oil temp gauge was not working. I wondered why. Then I found that the sender lead is not connected to the gauge. I had been trouble shooting the sender and I thought I had connected the blue wire to the gauge but there is no trace of that wire so far. I will have to trace it from the engine bay (???). It gives me the opportunity to use this gauge hole for the WB O2 gauge for the startup. I will change that later as it really sticks out like a sore thumb on the vintage looking dash. I'm removing a few wires from the harness which I could have not done but decided to do it anyway. So most of the work will be cleaning up the wiring and rewrapping the harness after I know it all works.

This is another level of learning about my car since I have no clue how the EEC-IV really works. I will probably have to stop at some point and just accept it. However, I already have more knowledge of how the system will operate than before I started this new project. for instance, how critical is the BAP for making your engine run. It turns out not as much as I thought. The air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, etc are much more critical. An example is when you have a small stumble on acceleration, it could be due to one cell in the fuel table above where you are idling. If you fix that, the stumble magically disappears. So far I have learned that keeping the readings a little on the rich side (safe side) allows you to experiment and still not blow a head gasket or run into a bad detonation event. I'm sure I will learn a lot of details and some of the quirks of this system as I get more into it. My initial goal is to get it running well enough to drive and tune.

Turns out this has been a good time to start since we are getting a lot of weather that usually isn't part of the AZ winter. I haven't seen this much rain since I moved here. But the roadster is safe and dry in the garage. I have a few pics to show the rather messy process I'm in right now.

BTW: I have been able to delete the wiring and component for the BAP, MAF, EGR, O2 sensors, so far and a little later will delete the IAC as well.

WEK.:cool::cool::cool:
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Comments

  1. frankeeski's Avatar
    I wouldn't be too quick to delete the IAC. I still have mine in the mix with the PiMP ECU. You can turn it on and off at will in the PiMP settings.
  2. skullandbones's Avatar
    I plan on keeping the IAC in place for now. To tell you the truth, I wasn't sure if the system would work well without it. I didn't know how you would modulate the idle and low cruise speed without it. I also didn't know if you had any control of it with the PiMP. So it's nice to know that I can switch the circuitry on or off with the PiMP and see how the IAC is affecting the idle. I didn't plan on removing the IAC until I change the induction which will make the single TB and associated accessories go away for the new 8 downdraft TBs. That should be a critical moment in my tuning. I have never tried adjusting that many "carbs" (TBs) at once I did manage to get a set of 3 2 barrels to work pretty well but they were matched and tuned from the factory so it was easier as I just had to tweek them. I don't know if one of those air flow meters in in my future but it sure sounds like it. Thanks, Frank.

    WEK.

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