SCFFR
04-28-2013, 01:02 PM
After getting the Ron Francis wiring harness installed over the last couple of weeks, got everything else prepped for the first start of the 410W engine in my MkIV. Actually, it was the first restart. After looking at all the engine vendors on the forum, I decided on a 408 stroker long block package from Doug Herbert Performance in Charlotte, NC. Since I am only 2 hours from Charlotte, I was able to visit the engine shop and talk with Doug before making a final decision. I did upgrade the standard long block with a Canton 7 qt. oil pan and roller cam package. Doug told me that if I would order the parts to finish the engine from him (intake manifold, carb, distributor, etc), he would have the engine shop install them and start the engine on the run-in stand for no charge. I thought that was a pretty good deal. Since the standard 408 package had already been dynoed at 450 hp, I had a good idea of what I was going to get. On a side note, when I was at the shop for the first time, met Shirley Muldowney and when I was watching my engine on the run-in stand, Bobby Allison walked in and chatted with everyone for a while. Pretty cool!
Anyway, all I really needed to do was connect the electrics and fuel line. I'm using a 60's Galaxie surge tank which interfered with the vacuum diaphram so I had to move the distributor around for clearance so was curious if I had done that correctly. I put 2 gallons of premium (no alcohol) gas into the tank and saw that the needle on the Smiths fuel gauge went from past E to E. I put in two more gallons and the needle settled between E and 1/4. I doubt if the gauge will go to F when the tank is full but at least I know when I get to E, I will have a couple of gallons left in the tank.
I tried cranking the engine for a while but quickly realized that it would take too long to get the mechanical fuel pump to suck the fuel through the new lines. So, I disconnected the IN hose at the pump and used a turkey baster to draw the fuel from the tank.........yep, it worked great. Once the fuel was flowing to the pump, I reconnected the hose and repeated the process at the carb. The engine started on the first turn of the key and ran great.
I was puzzled that the tach didn't work but the speedometer was reading 20 mph. A review of the instructions on the Smiths speedometer and tachometer showed that the input wire on these two gauges are the same color (red w/ blue stripe). Somehow, I had connected the coil/tach wire to the speedometer but that was easily corrected.
The sound through the under car exhaust with Spin Tech low profile mufflers is just awesome! I have to admit that I'm glad that noise is going out the back of the car and not right at my ear if I had gone with sidepipes. Just need to run the engine some more to burn off the "newness" of the ceramic coating on the headers and pipes and the sections of exhaust wrap. Also, I need to get it up to running temps to make sure the radiator fan thermo switch is working properly.
Note that I'm using the Edelbrock Torker II intake manifold. It's great for low end torque but not so much for top end horsepower. I selected it because it has a low pad height (4.5") and I am building a "street" version with no hood scoop. I have 3/8" clearance between the front edge of the air cleaner and the underside of the hood. Hopefully that will be enough.
Now I'm just waiting on my body to come back from the paint shop.
Oh, although I had ordered the 408W package, according to the very detailed engine sheet, the actual displacement came out to 410. Just wanted to clarify.
As soon as I can figure out how, will post a video.
Ron
17027
Anyway, all I really needed to do was connect the electrics and fuel line. I'm using a 60's Galaxie surge tank which interfered with the vacuum diaphram so I had to move the distributor around for clearance so was curious if I had done that correctly. I put 2 gallons of premium (no alcohol) gas into the tank and saw that the needle on the Smiths fuel gauge went from past E to E. I put in two more gallons and the needle settled between E and 1/4. I doubt if the gauge will go to F when the tank is full but at least I know when I get to E, I will have a couple of gallons left in the tank.
I tried cranking the engine for a while but quickly realized that it would take too long to get the mechanical fuel pump to suck the fuel through the new lines. So, I disconnected the IN hose at the pump and used a turkey baster to draw the fuel from the tank.........yep, it worked great. Once the fuel was flowing to the pump, I reconnected the hose and repeated the process at the carb. The engine started on the first turn of the key and ran great.
I was puzzled that the tach didn't work but the speedometer was reading 20 mph. A review of the instructions on the Smiths speedometer and tachometer showed that the input wire on these two gauges are the same color (red w/ blue stripe). Somehow, I had connected the coil/tach wire to the speedometer but that was easily corrected.
The sound through the under car exhaust with Spin Tech low profile mufflers is just awesome! I have to admit that I'm glad that noise is going out the back of the car and not right at my ear if I had gone with sidepipes. Just need to run the engine some more to burn off the "newness" of the ceramic coating on the headers and pipes and the sections of exhaust wrap. Also, I need to get it up to running temps to make sure the radiator fan thermo switch is working properly.
Note that I'm using the Edelbrock Torker II intake manifold. It's great for low end torque but not so much for top end horsepower. I selected it because it has a low pad height (4.5") and I am building a "street" version with no hood scoop. I have 3/8" clearance between the front edge of the air cleaner and the underside of the hood. Hopefully that will be enough.
Now I'm just waiting on my body to come back from the paint shop.
Oh, although I had ordered the 408W package, according to the very detailed engine sheet, the actual displacement came out to 410. Just wanted to clarify.
As soon as I can figure out how, will post a video.
Ron
17027