View Full Version : Chassis Rotisserie
2FAST4U
04-27-2013, 03:31 PM
Is it worth the time and cost to construct a chassis rotisserie to assemble everything but the engine and trans? I dread the thought of having to work on brake and fuel lines from a creeper with my surgically repaired back.
Can't you install the brake and fuel lines on the chassis before the body is installed? That is how I did mine and it was actually pretty easy. You just have to determine ahead of time where the body and inner panels may interfere and plan for them.
But, if you do decide to build a rotisserie, I would like to see pictures so I can use it for my next build. ;)
Bob
2FAST4U
04-27-2013, 04:34 PM
Installing the brake and fuel lines would require me to get on mt back on a creeper assuming the chassis is on jack stands. I'm not sure my surgically repaired back could take the stress. That's why I'm considering building a rotisserie using two engine stands.
DaleG
04-27-2013, 04:38 PM
Is it worth the time and cost to construct a chassis rotisserie to assemble everything but the engine and trans? I dread the thought of having to work on brake and fuel lines from a creeper with my surgically repaired back.
Why don't you use the cost of the rotisserie toward having someone do the lines (and other "back-breaking" items) for you, at your direction. Don't put your back at risk; any injury would likely cost much more $ and time to repair and could result in not being able to get in/out of the car. Best to trade-off sometimes and err on the side of caution. No offence intended.
2FAST4U
04-27-2013, 04:50 PM
No fun in someone else working on it
AZPete
04-27-2013, 06:55 PM
No fun in someone else working on it
I understand that.
How about building a chassis dolly that holds it a couple of feet up? You could sit on a stool and do most stuff.
Bob Cowan
04-27-2013, 07:04 PM
In your case, I would say yes, it is. It would not only allow you to rotate the frame, but it would raise it up high enough that you could sit in a chair or on a stool to do the work.
DaleG
04-27-2013, 08:05 PM
No fun in someone else working on it
Yeah, what was I thinking.
Take a look at this creeper. Cheaper than a rottissarie, and easier to store. It would really take the stress off of your back.
http://www.wimp.com/hydraulicchair/
Olli
gswartz
04-28-2013, 10:49 AM
I used the engine stand rotisserie and it worked very well. If you have the engine stand and want to pay for shipping from oregon I will send you the heads. My email is greg@swartzweb.com
http://i687.photobucket.com/albums/vv234/lswartzi/cobra/8dbba18e.jpg
2FAST4U
04-28-2013, 11:14 AM
Thanks for the offer Greg. But I'm still 2 or 3 months away from getting my kit. Just asking for opinions for now.
Did you have to modify your engine stands to make it higher?
CraigS
04-28-2013, 12:28 PM
Saw a really neat rotisserrie made from plywood but naturally can't find a pic now. I will try to describe as best as I can. Imagine maybe a 4'x4' piece of maybe 3/4 inch plywood. Locate it across the front of the car and bolt the car to one of the upper corners.Do the same at the rear. Now on the diagonally opposite corner of the plywood,at the floor, round it off w/ a nice radius. Make it so the edge on the floor is two feet wide flat and two feet radius. this allows you to roll the car 90 degrees on that radius til it stops on the other flat. I know those dimensions are off but I hope you can understand my word picture.
gswartz
04-28-2013, 09:07 PM
Thanks for the offer Greg. But I'm still 2 or 3 months away from getting my kit. Just asking for opinions for now.
Did you have to modify your engine stands to make it higher?
I got the stands and heads for the stands from a forum member, I don't believe they were raised or modified. It made building the car and all the drilling and aluminum work as well as wiring so much easier.
bill3422
04-29-2013, 06:55 AM
You will want to be very careful the the mounting spot of your rotisserie mount. On the picture you show them on the quick jack mounting brackets. I do not think those are structurally sound enough to hold the weight. The factory uses a bracket to the front X-brace and that is just for welding. no extra weight for suspension or other parts.
http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/bill3422/media/Cobra%20Build/88FB1D49-F2FC-4D1E-9FB3-E3C441B90B28-145-00000004910C786E_zps9c64a7a4.mp4.html?sort=3&o=186
snakebit31
04-29-2013, 08:55 AM
You will want to be very careful the the mounting spot of your rotisserie mount. On the picture you show them on the quick jack mounting brackets. I do not think those are structurally sound enough to hold the weight. The factory uses a bracket to the front X-brace and that is just for welding. no extra weight for suspension or other parts.
That's exactly what I was thinking.
Rob
edwardb
04-29-2013, 11:21 AM
You will want to be very careful the the mounting spot of your rotisserie mount. On the picture you show them on the quick jack mounting brackets. I do not think those are structurally sound enough to hold the weight. The factory uses a bracket to the front X-brace and that is just for welding. no extra weight for suspension or other parts.
I agree completely. That 3/4 square tubing is thin wall and just not all that strong. OK for its intended purpose, but I sure wouldn't hang the chassis, suspension components, etc. with only that holding it. As I recall, the bare chassis is only a few hundred pounds. But with all the suspension parts -- especially the rear axle components -- it's getting pretty heavy. I would think properly mounted to the front X-frame, like they do at the factory, would be OK in the front for the chassis build. Not sure what you would hook to in the back. Probably something custom to the 4 inch tubes?
Having built two (one finished, second maybe 30-40% done) only on jack stands, I can see the attraction for an alternative to crawling around on the ground. I spent this last weekend mainly on the ground and I'm feeling it. A rotisserie, done right, would be very cool. Just a real quick Google search and looks like the price of admission for something pre-made is at least $1000 to $1500. If you were a pro and doing this a lot, maybe makes sense. But for a one off, I doubt it. Just getting the frame up in the air (safely!) 2-3 feet would help a bunch. Maybe a more economical approach would be a garage lift. Economical in the sense it could be used both during and after the build. It's something I may consider in the future.
Just whatever you do, go overboard for safety. Just no happy endings if something happens while under it.
I built one and used it to get the builds started. you can do alot with the chassis on one. I had no problesm with it connecting to the front 3/4 tubes. I put on the front suspension, panels, fuel lines and brake lines. When it came to the heavy items, then the chassis went back to the jack stands. IT is out and about somewhere here in Utah, (I Think) several have used it and loved starting thier builds with it.
IF you don't use the rotisserrie, then get the tallest jack stands you can. that really helps to get the chassis up higher to work on it.
bill3422
04-29-2013, 05:04 PM
[QUOTE=edwardb;97315]I agree completely. That 3/4 square tubing is thin wall and just not all that strong. OK for its intended purpose, but I sure wouldn't hang the chassis, suspension components, etc. with only that holding it. As I recall, the bare chassis is only a few hundred pounds. But with all the suspension parts -- especially the rear axle components -- it's getting pretty heavy. I would think properly mounted to the front X-frame, like they do at the factory, would be OK in the front for the chassis build. Not sure what you would hook to in the back. Probably something custom to the 4 inch tubes?
You can check my video of my frame coming out of the welding jig and onto the rotisserie. Maybe you can tell what their hooking to in the rear. It looks to me as if it is the brackets where the quick jacks bolt up. More structural framing than the front
http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/bill3422/media/Cobra%20Build/88FB1D49-F2FC-4D1E-9FB3-E3C441B90B28-145-00000004910C786E_zps9c64a7a4.mp4.html?sort=3&o=186
edwardb
04-29-2013, 05:19 PM
You can check my video of my frame coming out of the welding jig and onto the rotisserie. Maybe you can tell what their hooking to in the rear. It looks to me as if it is the brackets where the quick jacks bolt up. More structural framing than the front.
Cool video. I've seen before. Interesting to see the frame being fabricated. It's a little hard to see, but agree they are attaching to the 3/4 tube frame in the back. Maybe into the rear quick jack mounts? I also agree it's more substantial than the tubes in the front. I'm sure it's fine for finish welding or the light fab they do before shipping. I just remember how heavy the rear axle and all the suspension parts are. Plus you're really cranking on the frame getting all the bolts to the right torque, etc. Personally I would want something more substantial. But having said that, I have zero personal experience. Would be very interesting to get some real world input from some who do.
dallas_
04-30-2013, 10:19 AM
In your case, I would say yes, it is. It would not only allow you to rotate the frame, but it would raise it up high enough that you could sit in a chair or on a stool to do the work.
What Bob said.
Pedalmasher
04-30-2013, 10:57 AM
I built a rotisserie from engine stands, and made modifications to address 2 of the issues discussed above: 1) They are height adjustable, using a electric drill to drive modified trailer jacks to raise the pivot head high enough to turn the frame, then drops down low enough to store the body buck above the frame; 2) added a diagonal cross-brace from one of the 4" frame ends up to the pivot mounting frame - absolutely NO wiggle at all, strong enough to mount everything but the engine/trans.
I'm fairly close by (Anaheim) - I would be willing to let you "borrow" them, if you're interested...
Let me know - - Derrick
2FAST4U
04-30-2013, 01:29 PM
Thanks Derrik.ill give it some thought. I'm still 2 months from getting my car
Tom Mauldin
04-30-2013, 08:50 PM
I use two engine stands that I modified to mount the chassis to. I install aluminum, run brake and fuel lines, shoot the lizard skin, and run some of the wiring while it is on it. I move it to the lift or place on jack stands to do the suspension. Works great! I think there was even a picture of one of the builds on it in the Kit Car Mag article about Lizard Skin.