Front brake lockup

[Atcogas]

Hi all. First of all here is what I have. Stock 88 mustang brakes (disk/drum) with booster aside from the 4 to 5 lug conversion. I am finding the front brakes locking up way to soon if I apply with any force for a quick stop. casual driving is ok. I have bled out several times and the distribution block is connected correct as per ffr manual. So here is what I'm wondering. could I install a manual proportioning valve to the front? and how would I plug off the rest of the system seeing how front left front brake is connected to the rear of the master cylinder it self and the other is on the distribution block along with the rear brakes. maybe I just skid the block completely and route line differently to the master cylinder etc. Hope this makes sense. Look forward to hearing from all that knowledge out there. Thanks Ken.

[Gordon Levy]

delete the stock prop valve/distribution block from the system first.

[Atcogas]

k thanks. that's a little vague. more info would be appreciated.

[Gordon Levy]

The proportioning of your car is way wrong. You have stated you have the Mustang prop valve/distribution block. It is proportioned for a mustang and not a roadster. Take it out of the car. Run the front and rear lines directly from the master with no proportioning valve. Try out the brakes and see how they are working. If you find you now have to much rear brake, which I doubt, you can add a rear adjustable prop valve.

[Atcogas]

The proportioning of your car is way wrong. You have stated you have the Mustang prop valve/distribution block. It is proportioned for a mustang and not a roadster. Take it out of the car. Run the front and rear lines directly from the master with no proportioning valve. Try out the brakes and see how they are working. If you find you now have to much rear brake, which I doubt, you can add a rear adjustable prop valve.

the left front brake does come directly straight from the m/c. The two others go to the block then in turn to one the right front and the other to both rear. Sorry i'm just a little unclear as to which way to go on this. block one off? if so which one? Not sure why ffr would say to set up this way, but then again It's the worst manual I have ever read. threw away some time ago.

[Gordon Levy]

Go get a 1993 Mustang Cobra master cylinder and install it. It only has 2 ports, 1 for the front and 1 for the rear then T off the fronts and run the port for the rears to the rear.
Did you do the required mods to the brake pedal.

[CraigS]

You can also gut the prop valve so it is still there w/ all your existing lines connected but is not affecting the rear brakes.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/BrakeControlValvecopy_zpsa8d46d86.jpg
Order the solid cap first and then do as the diagram says. Remove the old cap and everything inside that part of the valve and install the solid cap.Bleed the brakes and you will see a definate improvement.

[Atcogas]

You can also gut the prop valve so it is still there w/ all your existing lines connected but is not affecting the rear brakes.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/BrakeControlValvecopy_zpsa8d46d86.jpg
Order the solid cap first and then do as the diagram says. Remove the old cap and everything inside that part of the valve and install the solid cap.Bleed the brakes and you will see a definate improvement.

Great. thank you. I will give that a shot

[Gordon Levy]

You must replace the cap with one that is solid. The cap you have has a little runner plug the car come out when doing this mod.