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SCFFR
04-19-2013, 03:42 AM
While waiting on the body to be painted, I have been busy with wiring and getting the dash completed and installed. Finished the last connection behind the dash this morning and tested all of the circuits.

Nothing fancy since I'm building a "street" version MKIV. Glove box and dash vinyl from Alex Dailey, Smith gauges from Peter Bayer at Nisonger, Lucas toggle switches from **********, turn signal assembly from Russ Thompson and vent system from Paul Proefrock. Had originally planned on using a Lucas ignition switch but changed to a Ron Francis unit which made connecting to the RF harness a breeze. The toggle switch above the ignition is for the 4 way hazard lights. I was able to use a simple SPST toggle switch for the 4-way by using a two wire pigtail with diodes (purchased from Watson's StreetWorks) that ties in to the L and R wires from the Russ Thompson turn signal. The switch is fed by the wire from the hazard flasher. The panel dimmer switch is from a MGB and yes, that is a manual choke knob.

Hopefully the body will be back in a week or two and I can get started on some serious assembly. In the meantime, will go ahead and get the engine started.
Ron

16778

bil1024
04-19-2013, 06:38 AM
Really nice work

MPTech
04-19-2013, 09:28 AM
That interior looks spot-on perfect!
Like the support tubes! nice touch.

MPTech
04-19-2013, 09:33 AM
After studying your picture further (still really like it).

Can I ask a couple questions?
> Looks like a MK4 (?) have you checked the mounting holes with the body on? do they clear the rounded edge?
> Are your side wrap-arounds (ends of the dash) screwed to a tab? If you need to remove the dash after the body is on, will you be able to reach them?

these are some issues I encountered, trying to help others.

SCFFR
04-20-2013, 05:10 AM
Thanks for the comments.

Yes, its a MKIV. When I first fitted the body, I did notice that the dash loop bar was above the rounded edge of the body as you have noted. I ended up welding a series of tabs on the bar (see pic) and drilled and tapped them for 8-32 polished ss oval head machine screws (with polished finished washers). This allowed me to move the mounting screws about 1/2" down so they now clear the lower edge of the body cowl.
The sides are fastened with the same ss machine screws to some brackets I made and attached to the 2"x2" cowl support tube. Yes, you can reach up behind the ends and remove the fasteners if there is a need to remove the dash however let me say that I hope that never has to happen! I did leave plenty of slack in all of the wiring in case I would have to disconnect the dash one day.

Ron

16791