Trailers - Need some advice

[Slider]

The MK4 is going to the body shop on Monday! SO... now I'm thinking about trips for the summer, and am considering trailering it for some of the really long ones. I'm considering one of the Serpent Express trailers, or potentially an enclosed car carrier. I'd appreciate thoughts that anyone might have, and in particular, is it possible/practical to consider a 7x14 V-Nose enclosed trailer to carry a Roadster. My preference would be a 8.5x16 Vnose, but I've found a good deal on the 7x14 and wondering if that even makes sense to consider. Thanks in advance.

[Ray]

I'd recommend the Serpent Express. I had one with the steel deck, extra roof supports and brakes on both axles. The only thing I'd do different is to buy a 16-ft or 18-ft trailer instead of the 14-ft one I did. At 14-ft, the car is right at the rear end of the trailer and subject to possible damage in a minor rear-end collision. Also, the extra room would have been handy for some minor storage while towing. If you're concerned with weight, take a look at their aluminum trailer option, but the 14-ft steel trailer I had was only 1800-lbs, including the top.

Towed it behind an '06 Dakota with the 4.8L V8, an '06 F-150/5.4L and an '09 Toyota Tacoma with the 4.6L V6. Over mountains, through high winds and rain. Very stable, extremely easy to tow, tracked well and easy to back.

Ray

[Gumball]

I've had three different trailers. The first was a 20' long Haulmark enclosed and, although it was a great way to protect and store a nice car, it was like driving around with a barn hitched to the truck. The truck I had then would routinely get 18 - 20 mpg on the highway, but with the Haulmark, it would drop to 10 mpg empty and 9 mpg loaded... just way too much wind resistance. I then went to the exact opposite extreme and bought a 14' open Featherlite aluminum. Empty it was like it wasn't even there and loaded, it towed like a dream... only dropped 2-3 mpg from no trailer at all. Finally, I sold the aluminum open trailer and bought a friend's steel open trailer to which I'm adding a Serpent Express cover. This one is just a bit longer at 16' and will be sized to fit my wife's '67 Camaro, so it will certainly fit my FFR. The Serpent Express cover should be here in a few weeks - watch the site for an "after" pic of my installation, as well as a towing report!

[edwardb]

I bought an aluminum deck Serpent Express about a year ago. I'm really happy with it. Tows like a dream. Here's some information right after I got it, and another post with my first event.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/291829-new-serpent-express-house.html#post2666873

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/291829-new-serpent-express-house.html#post2672806

[RM1SepEx]

Don't skimp, get the 8..5 x 16 v nose... it's like adding an extra garage bay for the winter. My 2WD V6 truck hauls it fine... does drop to 11 MPG when towing fully loaded to 6000 lbs GVW from 19-20 MPG Cheapest extra garage bay that you will find, mine also store chairs, pop ups etc for auto and karting events full time. I'm adding solar battery charging this season to increase traveling capabilities. Add some 2 lb propane appliances and you can go anywhere. My wife's Miata just spent the winter resting in mine. I expect either my new 818 or my E30 convertible will rest there next winter.

you need the extra width to get old bones in and out of a car...

[Mesa Mike]

I have a friend with the Serpent Express 14' which I borrow on occasions. Pulls straight and nice, great trailer. I would go with the longer trailer as it is does not leave much room for anything but the Cobra. I would guess the trailer is about 12" longer than the Cobra.

[mrmustang]

The MK4 is going to the body shop on Monday! SO... now I'm thinking about trips for the summer, and am considering trailering it for some of the really long ones. I'm considering one of the Serpent Express trailers, or potentially an enclosed car carrier. I'd appreciate thoughts that anyone might have, and in particular, is it possible/practical to consider a 7x14 V-Nose enclosed trailer to carry a Roadster. My preference would be a 8.5x16 Vnose, but I've found a good deal on the 7x14 and wondering if that even makes sense to consider. Thanks in advance.

Before we can really respond accordingly, we need to first find out what you plan to use as a tow vehicle. Anser with that, and we an then guide you appropriately.


Bill S.

[Slider]

I have an Escalade. I can tow either of these options without a problem. My bigger concern is what it will fit in, and what is the best option. It sounds like its going to be personal preference, though I am interested if I can make a 7x14 VNose enclosed trailer work without too much difficulty.


Before we can really respond accordingly, we need to first find out what you plan to use as a tow vehicle. Anser with that, and we an then guide you appropriately.


Bill S.

[RM1SepEx]

I have a friend with a 7.5 wide x 14 long vnose. I borrowed it, on the 5 hr drive home my wife mentioned how "handy" it was. I started looking that PM on Craigslist! The 2 feet extra length and 8.5 width of my V nose aluminum trailer make it much easier to use. I can climb in and out of her Miata with minimal issues as a vertically challenged, wider than desired 50 + male... My 818 and a weeks worth of "stuff" my tool boxes and my RM1 DD2 Rotax kart will fit in it.

The 14 foot length is marginal... the width is also marginal

BUT it would work, not much besides your Cobra will fit...

[68GT500MAN]

2x Don't skimp in the extra width/length.

[OCCPete]

I've got a 7x16 v-nose with an escape door. It's a tight fit, but it works well. Only 14ft would be pushing it.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/36bdaa01.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/pballent/media/36bdaa01.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/1be02402.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/pballent/media/1be02402.jpg.html)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/9d25b79f.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/pballent/media/9d25b79f.jpg.html)

Pete

[Someday I Suppose]

I think it also depends on what else you want to use the trailer for. The SE is a cool deal and what I have, but the roadster and a miata are about the only options as far as what fits in it. For sure 16ft if you can get it is a nice option, I THINK mine is a 15 and its still a bit tight, about a foot or so on either end. No complaints though on how it toes, used to pull it with a 4.6L Ram 1500, now I am pulling it with an 08 V8 Mountaineer. I get some occasional sway with the Mounty, but no problem at all with pulling it.

Scott

[RM1SepEx]

That escape door is SWEET!

[Larry N. Johnson]

Easy load, easy tie down, easy pull, quick stop = safe and sound.
http://serpentexpress.com/images/57b91cf996e113a9d7f083fb2cead0d4_f73b.jpg

Lightest enclosed on the market, easy to park and store.
http://serpentexpress.com/images/09f657e73424c7de0d964e5c865a488a.jpg

Decent service, to boot!

[Arch]

I really like my SE. Give Larry a call, good guy, good trailer.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/McQ2013/7febc6b4.png

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj7/McQ2013/f56ed316.png

Arch

[Slider]

I've been passing notes with Larry, and my first impression is as you guys suggest... Great guy.. very willing to accommodate. One more question on the SE... Since I will likely have to store the trailer outside, year round, in heavy North Dakota wind, cold and snow, will the the soft sides hold up? If not, how hard is it to remove the sides, and how hard to put back on. I don't want to be in a situation where I've got 4 hours of work at the start end end of each haul?

[edwardb]

I've been passing notes with Larry, and my first impression is as you guys suggest... Great guy.. very willing to accommodate. One more question on the SE... Since I will likely have to store the trailer outside, year round, in heavy North Dakota wind, cold and snow, will the the soft sides hold up? If not, how hard is it to remove the sides, and how hard to put back on. I don't want to be in a situation where I've got 4 hours of work at the start end end of each haul?

The soft side material is very durable, and I expect would last a number of years. Have you asked Larry that question? He's the one supplying the material and also has experience with many owners. Like you said, a good guy and great to work with. But I can tell you the soft top is not designed to be taken on and off a lot, e.g. each time you use it. Only for repair, maintenance, replacement, etc. The soft top handles 60-70-?? mph wind at highway speeds just fine. I would think it would handle outside storage, wind, etc. I store mine indoors, with my car in it, during the winter. So I can't offer any personal experience.

Have to share this kind of funny story. When I pulled into Cobo Hall for the Detroit Autorama a couple months ago with my SE and Mk3 inside, first of all you see how much more compact it is than some of the huge trailers other guys are hauling around. Anyway, several guys come up to me while I was getting ready to unload my car. They looked inside and acted surprised to see my Roadster inside. One of the guys remarked he thought it was a snowmobile trailer and I was bringing snowmobiles to the show. OK, it's not quite that small. I was feeling a bit inadequate there for a minute. :o

Good luck with your decision. You won't be disappointed with an SE if it meets your needs.

[Bob Cowan]

One more question on the SE... Since I will likely have to store the trailer outside, year round, in heavy North Dakota wind, cold and snow, will the the soft sides hold up?

The soft top is not designed to be removed often.

I bought my trailer about 6 years ago. After 6 years in the Colorado sun and weather, the top is done. The gray color has all faded, and it has a lot of holes in the top. The two big zippers in the back are both broken. And the velcro around the front flap is also done. It didn't hold up as well as I had hoped.

I have ordered another top from Larry. This time, it will be black (with red stripes) Larry tells me the black material is much more durable. Also, I have already purchased a cover for protection. Hopefully, keeping it out of the Colorado sun should help it to last a lot longer.

Other than that, it's a great trailer, and I highly recommend them. Light weight, easy to tow, and relatively inexpensive.

[Slider]

Okay... I'm certainly not knocking the Serpent Express, as it seems to be the perfect solution for the Roadster. I'm thinking however that I might want to haul other things at certain times, so back to considering a hardsided enclosed trailer. Just talked to a local dealer about a 8.5'x16' enclosed, and he is suggesting a dove tail at the end due to the low profile of these cars. That makes sense to me, but figured I'd ask those with this type of trailer. Do I need the dove tail for loading on level ground? (My car is in getting the body work done, so I can't even take it by the trailer shop to try it right now). Thanks

[68GT500MAN]

My trailers do have a dove-tail (4ft) and a dropped axel. With both, I have never had any problem loading a roadster, coupe or hot rod. Some will tell you that with the typical ramps supplied with open trailers that you have to raise the front or add longer ramps to load these cars. With the enclosed trailers that I have used, the door is usually long enough to allow loading without problems, but a dove-tail would certainly have helped.
Doug

[OCCPete]

Yes, get the dove tail.

Pete

[Olli]

Take a look at Montrose trailers as an option. Very interesting.

Olli

[RM1SepEx]

I shimmed the ramp door 2" higher & I use my 4 post lift's aluminum ramps and removed the cheap particle board flapper style ramp ends. This made the ramp shallower. better for lower cars and my karts

[Slider]

Guys, my car is at the tuner about 200 miles away, but found a trailer that might work. Trying to recall the width of the Roadster. The trailer is 8x20, but only about 72' between the wheel wells of the trailer inside. I think it might be a bit tight getting through the wheel wells. Can someone send me the measurements? Thanks

[68GT500MAN]

My trailer measures 72" between the fenders and there is plenty of room for even a 1972 Mustang.
Doug

[bill3422]

58.5 in from outside wheel to outside wheel

https://www.factoryfive.com/kits/mk4-roadster/design/#_specificationscontent

[Slider]

Thanks guys. I found the 70.5 overall width, which means worst case I can get in. With the shape of the car, and the 58.5" wheel measurements (width) I'm feeling good about my trailer find! Once again, thanks for the quick responses!

[tirod]

Some views from guys who tow bigger stuff with their Escalades: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/154117-anyone-towing-6k-lbs-w-cadilac-escalade.html#b

Dedicated towing vehicles will do a better job, but acquiring a 3/4 ton diesel isn't cheap. The previous question about what kind of vehicle is still unanswered, "Escalade" doesn't mention engine or wheelbase. It makes a difference.

I have a small utility trailer, towing with a Cherokee is nearly effortless. Towing a two axle trailer with skid steer loaded on it is marginal at best, and I won't do it again. The reality is that a long wheelbase vehicle with a minimum of 300 foot pounds of torque and trailer brakes are what it takes to safely tow another car on a trailer. Does the Escalade really meet the need, can it pull a loaded trailer up serious inclines, etc. and still come to a screeching halt at highway speeds?

Most of the conversations I hear from guys towing aren't about the trailer, it's about getting enough truck, and it generally results in long wheelbase diesels getting the job done.

[Slider]

Thanks for the info. The Escalade is an AWD, Wheelbas of 116 /2946, and rated to tow 7400 pounds. (The Trailer is 3000 lbs, and the Roadster is 2200 at most) The engine is a 6.2L, 403HP and 417 Lb-ft Torque, with the towing package and transmission cooler. I've also added the electric braking system, and Equalizer Hitch. It tows the trailer and car without any issue, except for really poor gas mileage.
Some views from guys who tow bigger stuff with their Escalades: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/154117-anyone-towing-6k-lbs-w-cadilac-escalade.html#b

Dedicated towing vehicles will do a better job, but acquiring a 3/4 ton diesel isn't cheap. The previous question about what kind of vehicle is still unanswered, "Escalade" doesn't mention engine or wheelbase. It makes a difference.

I have a small utility trailer, towing with a Cherokee is nearly effortless. Towing a two axle trailer with skid steer loaded on it is marginal at best, and I won't do it again. The reality is that a long wheelbase vehicle with a minimum of 300 foot pounds of torque and trailer brakes are what it takes to safely tow another car on a trailer. Does the Escalade really meet the need, can it pull a loaded trailer up serious inclines, etc. and still come to a screeching halt at highway speeds?

Most of the conversations I hear from guys towing aren't about the trailer, it's about getting enough truck, and it generally results in long wheelbase diesels getting the job done.

[frankeeski]

Thanks for the info. The Escalade is an AWD, Wheelbas of 116 /2946, and rated to tow 7400 pounds. (The Trailer is 3000 lbs, and the Roadster is 2200 at most) The engine is a 6.2L, 403HP and 417 Lb-ft Torque, with the towing package and transmission cooler. I've also added the electric braking system, and Equalizer Hitch. It tows the trailer and car without any issue, except for really poor gas mileage.

I think your numbers may be a bit conservative but even at your 3000 lbs and 2200 lbs. you are past 5000lbs. Most factory installed receiver hitches are rated at or near 5000 lbs. Please follow this link and check the label on the receiver hitch on your vehicle to confirm. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9569-Check-Your-trailer-Hitch-PLEASE!
Even if you had the hitch installed after market you may be disappointed that the hitch you have is not rated at the limit you think it is. If you are using a true weight distribution hitch with equalizing bars and sway control you may be OK. Even still, make sure all of the component which include the ball mount, trailer ball and receiver are all rated for the limit you plan on towing.

[Slider]

Thanks Frank. I'll check this all out as suggested. You are correct thought that I'll be pretty dissapointed if this isn't rated to tow the 7400lbs that Cadillac says it is.

[Slider]

Frank, I finally got around to doing the checking that you suggested, and also went to 2 different trailer places to make sure my findings were correct. As you indicated, my receiver was only rated for 5,000lbs, which would be a definate problem, but on that same sticker it indicates that with an equalizer hitch, it is rated to 10,000 lbs. Since I have the equalizer hitch, I'm well below the weight limit on the equalizer hitch (which is rated at 12,000 lbs) and well below the 10,000lb limit on the receiver. Sounds like I'm in good shape, but one of the trailer companies said that many vehicles come equiped with receiver hitches that will only go to a 7000 limit even with an equalizer hitch. Your warnings are valid. Thanks for bringing it up. Just glad that in my case it ended up being a non issue.


I think your numbers may be a bit conservative but even at your 3000 lbs and 2200 lbs. you are past 5000lbs. Most factory installed receiver hitches are rated at or near 5000 lbs. Please follow this link and check the label on the receiver hitch on your vehicle to confirm. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9569-Check-Your-trailer-Hitch-PLEASE!
Even if you had the hitch installed after market you may be disappointed that the hitch you have is not rated at the limit you think it is. If you are using a true weight distribution hitch with equalizing bars and sway control you may be OK. Even still, make sure all of the component which include the ball mount, trailer ball and receiver are all rated for the limit you plan on towing.

[frankeeski]

Just so we are crystal clear, this is a weight distribution hitch.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/PS49903_1000_zps7ef54e46.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/PS49903_1000_zps7ef54e46.jpg.html)
This is not.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/Reesetrailerhitch_zps3e9e63ed.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/Reesetrailerhitch_zps3e9e63ed.jpg.html)
If if fact you are using a weight distribution as in the first picture you should be fine.

[mrmustang]

Just so we are crystal clear, this is a weight distribution hitch.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/PS49903_1000_zps7ef54e46.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/PS49903_1000_zps7ef54e46.jpg.html)



Yes, this is what you want to use.



Bill S.

[Olli]

Another version of a weight distribution /anti-sway hitch. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/


Olli

[Slider]

Spot on. My Weight Distribution hitch is more in line (mounting bars, not chains) with what Olli posted, but yes, it does what it is supposed to do! Again, thanks to Frank for the excellent information. Even though you got me plenty worried for a few minutes that I'd purchased a trailer I couldn't use, I'm breathing much more confidently now having double and triple checked that I am in fact, good to go!