Heater Coolant ByPass?

[Slider]

Just read in another post that the Coyote requires constant coolant flow. This seems to mean that the FF supplied heater, with the cutoff switch would end up causing problems as it restricts flow. Makes sense. I'm wondering if anyone has pictures of how they've resolved this, and perhaps a part number(s) for the bypass valve that is used to make this work. Thanks in advance.

[bansheekev]

Here you go...

I have done a bunch of searching and it looks like the most common solution (used on the 4.6 mod motors) is to use a bypass valve from a mid-90's Ford Ranger. It is vacuum actuated but you can remove the vacuum actuator and fab up an adapter to use the Vintage Air cable.

Here is the link to the thread that details the Ranger solution:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/270421-heater-shut-off-valve.html

Here is the AutoZone part # for the Ranger valve: Everco/Heater Control Valve Part Number: 74809. I bought one today - $19.00. I am hoping I can hide the whole thing between the engine and the firewall under the Coyote engine cover where you will only be able to see the hoses going to the heater core.

Kevin

[Slider]

So... I had already installed the FF Vintage heater, and plumbed everything in with the simple on/off in-line before I read about all this. I understand the need to provide coolant flow, so obviously need to redo the plumbing. I picked up the ranger Heater control valve, but am now wondering if rather than putting in the ranger heater valve, if I could instead just run a secondary line that by-passes the heater completely (a simple Y connector prior to the heater shutoff, and then another Y-connector going back into the Coyote. This would allow me to ensure flow when the heater is shut-off. My only question, is when I turn the heater on, would i get enough flow of coolant to provide heat to the heater? Any thoughts?

[Slider]

Just an update... I ended up installing the Ford Ranger Heater Valve Control. Had to redo quite a bit of work, but in the end, wasn't as difficult as I'd thought it might be and didn't look as bad as I thought it might.
So... I had already installed the FF Vintage heater, and plumbed everything in with the simple on/off in-line before I read about all this. I understand the need to provide coolant flow, so obviously need to redo the plumbing. I picked up the ranger Heater control valve, but am now wondering if rather than putting in the ranger heater valve, if I could instead just run a secondary line that by-passes the heater completely (a simple Y connector prior to the heater shutoff, and then another Y-connector going back into the Coyote. This would allow me to ensure flow when the heater is shut-off. My only question, is when I turn the heater on, would i get enough flow of coolant to provide heat to the heater? Any thoughts?

[bansheekev]

Pictures? I'm starting to work on that part next week...

Kevin

[Slider]

I'll get some pictures in the next day or so and get them posted.

Pictures? I'm starting to work on that part next week...

Kevin

[xavier296]

I left the stock controller and used an h connector for the hoses. You offset the hoses from the engine, one on the bottom left of the H, other on the top right, then add the hoses to the heater on the other ones. This creates a more restrictive path for the coolant if the heater valve is actually opened. But it also allows collant flow when the heater valve is off.

[tcoon]

I am using the FFR supplied heater on my coyote. Drove 200 mi this weekend in 90 deg heat with a fair amount of stop and go traffic. So far absolutely no sign of overheating or any problem. I believe we may be over thinking this one...

[tcoon]

Just an update...I drove my car all around LA this weekend in 90 degree heat for the HB event, including one hour trips to and from Riverside in famous LA traffic and competing in the auto cross event. The temp gauge never budged off 90 Celsius(195 Fahrenheit). The heater switch remained off. I think this is a non issue.

[DaleG]

Just to be sure, is the only issue with restricted coolant flow engine (water) temp? What was the source that generated concerns on this and other Forums about needing to add a bypass on heaters in Coyotes?

[Slider]

My understanding (from another post that referenced the Ford Racing Manual on the install of the Coyote) is that the Coyote needs coolant flow, usually provided through a heater in Ford products for proper cooling. The statement in the Ford manual was something to the effect of making sure that there was flow, even if NOT having a heater installed. The inference was that with the FF supplied heater, it is either on/off, so that if it is shut off, there is no flow from the left to the right hand cylinder head. Thus, the suggestion was to add a bypass valve so that when the heater is off, there is still flow.

The original information was through another post on this forum named "Coolant Flow Direction for Coyote". The quote was "From the Aluminator instruction sheet ... "If a heater circuit is not used then the heater supply must be connected to the heater return to allow air to be purged from the right hand cylinder head and provide sufficient coolant flow through the right hand cylinder head. Install a 5/16" (0.3125) diameter restrictor in this hose." That would be why you don't want to just plug the heater hoses off!" The link to the Aluminator instruction page is: http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...6007-A50NA.pdf

Hope this helps. I ended up putting in the Ford Ranger Bypass, actuated by the FF heater cable, and it seems to work just fine. Flows through the heater when needed, and bypasses properly when the heater valve is shut.


Just to be sure, is the only issue with restricted coolant flow engine (water) temp? What was the source that generated concerns on this and other Forums about needing to add a bypass on heaters in Coyotes?

[DaleG]

"If a heater circuit is not used then the heater supply must be connected to the heater return to allow air to be purged from the right hand cylinder head and provide sufficient coolant flow through the right hand cylinder head. Install a 5/16" (0.3125) diameter restrictor in this hose." That would be why you don't want to just plug the heater hoses off!" The link to the Aluminator instruction page is: http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...6007-A50NA.pdf

Hope this helps. I ended up putting in the Ford Ranger Bypass, actuated by the FF heater cable, and it seems to work just fine. Flows through the heater when needed, and bypasses properly when the heater valve is shut.

Sure answers my question. Thanks, I'll be sure to address this. Above link does not work.

[Slider]

Sorry, I'd just copied the link from an earliest email, so Just now googled this new link.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6007-A50SC.pdf

Open the PDF to page 5 for more detail.


Sure answers my question. Thanks, I'll be sure to address this. Above link does not work.

[Jester]

Tcoon, did you change the heater control valve or are you still running the stock heater control valve?

I called Ford Racing and spoke to a tech to discuss this issue - the FFR supplied heater control valve. The issue as explained to me is air being trapped in PS Cooling sleeve and if air is trapped, the PS will overheat and will be engine will not run properly. The tech said if the cooling system is properly purged and the engine is running fine then do not worry about it.

I now have approx 1500 miles on the MK4 with no issues. So, at this point I do not plan on changing out the heater control valve supplied with the heater.

[tcoon]

I have had no cooling issues at all in 750 miles, the last 200 high speed WOT racing in 90 deg temps at 7000 rpm consistently. I believe this is a non issue.

[77233349975]

i am building a coyote 33 hotrod. i am using a vintage air ac & heater. i was wondering if you could install a permanent 5/16" bypass connecting the two heater hoses before the heater cutoff valve. i think that there would be enough hot water for the heater and the coyote to be happy. what do you guys THINK?

[Jester]

I have had no cooling issues at all in 750 miles, the last 200 high speed WOT racing in 90 deg temps at 7000 rpm consistently. I believe this is a non issue.

Thx - Agreed. I have no issues with the supplied heater control value installed.