SCFFR
03-03-2013, 08:28 AM
After finishing up the carpet in the trunk, I moved to the interior of the car. I had previously covered every interior panel with Rattletrap sound deadener so that part was already done. I purchased 6 yds of black Bentley carpet (80" wide) from the local auto upholsterer along with 7 yds of jute padding (36" wide). I had used the padding on a couple other projects so I was used to working with it and at $5 a yard, the price balanced out the $50 a yard for the carpet. Additionally, since my MkIV will definitely be a "fair weather" driver, I was not concerned about moisture absorption in the padding.
I had made paper patterns of all of the interior aluminum panels before I installed them so I just had to cut them down to fit and then transfer them to the back of the carpet. Because of the upgraded backing, the Bentley carpet is so much easier to cut and trim. The backing on the cheaper carpet I used for the trunk tended to fall apart once the backing strands were cut.
As I cut and fitted the pieces, I kept in mind where the exposed edges would show and marked these to be edged. As I fitted about 6 or 7 pieces, I would take them to the upholsterer and he would sew black vinyl binding to the edges. Then using 3M Super 90 spray adhesive, I would glue them in place. For those of you how have used this glue, you know you only get one shot at getting the carpet in place. Needless to say, some of the panels inside the footwells were a challenge................my back is still sore and hair has clumps of glue! I made no attempt to hide or cover any of the footwell chassis tubes. Since I did option to have my chassis powder coated by FFR, the tubes are a nice glossy black.
No major problems or issues. I just made sure that I got a tight fit on the pieces especially on those edges to be bound. Unbound edges that fit nice and tight will be loose once the edges are finished. The only challenge was the floor pan carpet that curves around the 4" chassis tube at the edges of the front of the tunnel and turns down into the footwell. I just let the inner footwell side pieces run down over the tube to cover this area.
I included a pic of the finished door striker that I had fabricated so I could use the striker plate instead of discarding it per the manual instructions. With the bracket painted and the carpet installed, it turned out pretty good.
Of course, after I got the carpet in, I had to cut the holes for the seat mounts. I used a seat track from Summit (about $27) that fit the seat without too much modification. I removed the bolts from the lower track and used 5/16" button head stainless bolts to fasten the track to the floorpan - drilled and tapped into the 4" main tube and 2" square tube. Then used 5/16" carriage bolts to fasten upper track to seat frame. I mounted the track with the seat pushed back on the track as far as it would go and the back of the seat back just off the rear bulkhead. This gives me maximum travel forward however unless you are a member of the Lollipop Guild, I can't see anyone having to move the seat. Since the adjustable track raised the seat 1.25", I made some risers out of angle iron for the passenger seat to put it at the same level. The black strips are 1/4" x 1.5" oak to keep from compressing the padding when the seats are bolted down. Will do the sides under the doors once the body is back on.
I'm very happy with how the carpet turned out but glad I don't have to do it for a living. If I had to do it again, I would also use the Bentley carpet for the trunk. I did some forum research and found that I would need about 5 1/2" yds of carpet for the interior and 2 yds for the trunk. I used a cheaper cut pile carpet for the trunk (still $22/yd) but discovered when I cut the last piece for the interior, I had 2 yds remaining on the 6 yds of Bentley carpet. Turns out that you can do the entire interior and trunk with 6 yds of Bentley since its sold in 80" wide rolls. Total cost was $375 for the carpet (interior and trunk), $35 for padding, $80 for 6 cans of 3M Super 90 glue, and $60 to get all of the edges bound. The fun.......priceless.
Ron
15819158201582115822
I had made paper patterns of all of the interior aluminum panels before I installed them so I just had to cut them down to fit and then transfer them to the back of the carpet. Because of the upgraded backing, the Bentley carpet is so much easier to cut and trim. The backing on the cheaper carpet I used for the trunk tended to fall apart once the backing strands were cut.
As I cut and fitted the pieces, I kept in mind where the exposed edges would show and marked these to be edged. As I fitted about 6 or 7 pieces, I would take them to the upholsterer and he would sew black vinyl binding to the edges. Then using 3M Super 90 spray adhesive, I would glue them in place. For those of you how have used this glue, you know you only get one shot at getting the carpet in place. Needless to say, some of the panels inside the footwells were a challenge................my back is still sore and hair has clumps of glue! I made no attempt to hide or cover any of the footwell chassis tubes. Since I did option to have my chassis powder coated by FFR, the tubes are a nice glossy black.
No major problems or issues. I just made sure that I got a tight fit on the pieces especially on those edges to be bound. Unbound edges that fit nice and tight will be loose once the edges are finished. The only challenge was the floor pan carpet that curves around the 4" chassis tube at the edges of the front of the tunnel and turns down into the footwell. I just let the inner footwell side pieces run down over the tube to cover this area.
I included a pic of the finished door striker that I had fabricated so I could use the striker plate instead of discarding it per the manual instructions. With the bracket painted and the carpet installed, it turned out pretty good.
Of course, after I got the carpet in, I had to cut the holes for the seat mounts. I used a seat track from Summit (about $27) that fit the seat without too much modification. I removed the bolts from the lower track and used 5/16" button head stainless bolts to fasten the track to the floorpan - drilled and tapped into the 4" main tube and 2" square tube. Then used 5/16" carriage bolts to fasten upper track to seat frame. I mounted the track with the seat pushed back on the track as far as it would go and the back of the seat back just off the rear bulkhead. This gives me maximum travel forward however unless you are a member of the Lollipop Guild, I can't see anyone having to move the seat. Since the adjustable track raised the seat 1.25", I made some risers out of angle iron for the passenger seat to put it at the same level. The black strips are 1/4" x 1.5" oak to keep from compressing the padding when the seats are bolted down. Will do the sides under the doors once the body is back on.
I'm very happy with how the carpet turned out but glad I don't have to do it for a living. If I had to do it again, I would also use the Bentley carpet for the trunk. I did some forum research and found that I would need about 5 1/2" yds of carpet for the interior and 2 yds for the trunk. I used a cheaper cut pile carpet for the trunk (still $22/yd) but discovered when I cut the last piece for the interior, I had 2 yds remaining on the 6 yds of Bentley carpet. Turns out that you can do the entire interior and trunk with 6 yds of Bentley since its sold in 80" wide rolls. Total cost was $375 for the carpet (interior and trunk), $35 for padding, $80 for 6 cans of 3M Super 90 glue, and $60 to get all of the edges bound. The fun.......priceless.
Ron
15819158201582115822