New idea or not? tapping the wind screen brackets instead of bolt and nut.

[skullandbones]

While in the process of mounting the wind screen, I thought it might be easier to tap the chrome on brass side rails of the wind screen assembly so it could be a one hand operation instead of bolt and nut fasteners. I noticed that the alloy is still pretty hard (even though brass) while cutting off 2 inches of the right side. BTW: it's not mentioned in the manual that the bracket is too long. Seems to be an important detail which added one more disassembly of the side rail that could have been avoided. But a friend always reels me back in saying, "it's a kit car, remember?".

So I am at the point where I think this would work better than the suggested instalation. If the threads fail at some point it could still be installed the standard way. Any thought on the subject? Thank you, WEK. :cool::cool:

[michael everson]

I do that to all my builds. I generally tap them 1/2-13 to match the mounting bolts. 1/2-20 might be a little stronger but you would have to buy new mounting bolts. Worse case if the threads stip, just add the nut.
Mike

[AZPete]

Good call, Bill. When Mike Everson blesses an idea it's gold.

[cob427sc]

I've tapped with 1/2-20 in the past. Still is fun getting the drivers side installed. Somewhere in the directions it talks about 'trimming" the legs. Not sure why we don't just get a dimension that would work to prevent sliding it in and out several times to get the length and bolt locations right.

[skullandbones]

Hey Pete. After our conversation about the wind screen mounts and the wrench held with duct tape, I paniced and had to come up with an alternative! I was going to do it anyway but you're right. It helps to get validation from experienced builders like Michael E. Now my main concern is to not strip the screws that hold the frame. Hope it also helps others who are anxing over this task.

Thanks, Mike.

WEK.

[skullandbones]

I've tapped with 1/2-20 in the past. Still is fun getting the drivers side installed. Somewhere in the directions it talks about 'trimming" the legs. Not sure why we don't just get a dimension that would work to prevent sliding it in and out several times to get the length and bolt locations right.


You know, it just goes to show how these projects vary as to the difficulty of a particular task based on what you have done on your project. In my case, the driver's side is more accessible on my car and the passenger side mount is obscured by the over flow tank I installed on top of the passenger foot box.

BTW, I had to do some research on the manual. It so happens I have a 5.0 version and a 4.6 version because I was thinking about a 4.6 but could never find the right donor at the right price among other reasons. So I reread my 5.0 version text and there is not one word about trimming the bracket. Then I went to the 4.6 manual which I hardly look at anymore and found an interesting comment. On page 162 there is a sentence that was left out of the 5.0 version that says, "If the rubber seal does not seal, cut 1.5 inches off the bottom of the sidebars". So I guess there was an editting issue with the 5.0 version. There is no document control info so it's hard to say if the comment was accidently deleted or added to the 4.6 version. Interesting though.

Hopefully, disconnects like that have gotten better in the digital manuals (instant editting).

WEK.