TKO600 Shifting/Clutch adjustment Problem

[racephotoman]

Finally car the car on its feet...push it unto the driveway. I have the clutch pedal set to drop approx. one inch. My problem, basically it is very hard to get in in gear. Reverse is the easies (gear clatter at times), 3rd and 4th goes in sometimes, and 1st and 2nd, hardly ever (but it will after playing with the shifter). While the clutch pedal is tight, and basically can't be adjusted on top or at the bellhousing/fork area any more to bring the pedal up for no drop, it seems like I need to disengage the engine from the tranny more. I'm using Forte tranny/shifter/fluid in. The fork also has very little loose play at all. When in gear the car did move nicely, and I was able to "drive" the car back into the garage.
Clutch, tranny, or shifter problem?????
Any help would be appreciated.
Walter

[michael everson]

The fork should have no play. Otherwise things could rattle. Is the cable adjuster all the way out at the foot box? If so you may need to make a spacer between the cawww.SiennaCountach.comble and adjuster. What quadrent are you using? The stock one is adjustable by pulling up on the pedal.
Mike

[racephotoman]

Right now the fork adjustment is all the in (the threaded rod is feed all the way through the fork, and the adjuster up top is basically all the way out toward the front of the car (I still have very little adjustment left)....but what you are saying I think is that the fork when in the "rest" position should be pushed forward toward the front of the car (toward the engine)??? Not sure, but to me this would keep the bearing in contact all the time???, and thinking back to my "old Chevy" gdays decades ago technology, you want to keep the throwout off the plate....again, I might be confused and obviously don't understand today's system.
As for the Quad, the FFR supplied one - I did have to install a longer stop screw.
Would any pictures help?

Walter

[michael everson]

Yes Bearing should be in contact all the time. Sounds like you might have recieved a cable that is too long? You could also put spacers where the cable passes through the bell housing to effectivelly shorten it. Are you using the stock quadrent on the pedal box or is it a Wilwood pedal box?

[skullandbones]

I've heard this discussion before so I will ask the same question. Do you have a clutch pedal stop installed? If you don't it is (I think) impossible to get it right. So if you have one, I apologize. If you don't, put it on and see how everything else falls in place. IMO, WEK.

[racephotoman]

Yes, I have the stop installed. And yes, I using the Quad that can with the Wilwood pedal box. I did readjust (tighten) the adjustment at the fork, hence tightening the cable. Again, seems real tight with the pedal (and I thinking now normal from what I'm hearing). While I'm not running the engine, the shifting does appear a little better (able to get it into most gears with mild effort (not smooth) - It's cold out and just snowed a little, so I'll check the shifting once I get the car out and actually running (thinking I'll never get an real idea of the shifting without running the car's motor - tranny turning)-correct???

Walter

[cob427sc]

I had the same problem installing the FFR suplied cable in my MarkIV. I backed off the quad adjuster and added a spacer about an inch long on the clutch fork under the nut. This works fine and minor adjustments can now be made with the quad adjuster at the firewall.

[rich grsc]

You really should not be trying to shift through the gears with the engine not running. All trannys will appear to be hard shifting unless the engine is running.

[riptide motorsport]

You really should not be trying to shift through the gears with the engine not running. All trannys will appear to be hard shifting unless the engine is running.

Agreed there also,,,,,,,,thing is, if your in disengaged, your disengauged. adjusting the cable will change when you engauge. So if your having trouble getting your tranny into diferent gears , its got to be shifter or tranny itself..........JMHO Steven

[CraigS]

All the cable type clutches should be adjusted so there is little to no slack at the top of the pedal travel. You don't want there to be much pressure applied to the t/o bearing though. If you could adjust it while looking at the t/o bearing, you would keep tightening til the bearing just barely touched the PP and stop there. In reality, I adjust mine so there is 1/4 to1/2 inch of pedal movement before I feel resistance. That tells me the bearing is where it should be and gives me just a little bit of chance for an indication that the clutch is wearing and needs an adjustment. As the clutch wears the pedal will lose freeplay, so, if you had absolutely no freeplay to start w/, it would be hard to know when you need to make an adjustment.

[Mesa Mike]

One other tip. The pivot ball can be adjusted to lengthen the travel of the fork or shorten it by removing or placing a spacer between the pivot ball and the bell housing where it is attached. Did that today to give me more "throw" on the fork as I engaged the clutch. Now all good.