A Few Carpet Questions

[SCFFR]

Yesterday I ordered 6 yds. of Bentley carpet (80" wide) from the local auto upholsterer that I have used in the past on a few other projects. While I'm waiting for it to get delivered, have been trimming/fitting the paper templates I made of all of the aluminum panels before I riveted them in place. Just have a few questions on how you fitted several of the pieces.

Did you make the two inner footwell side panels and the one that runs around the front of the trans tunnel one piece or did you join them at some point. I realize that it would be a large and awkward piece to try to glue in place so I'm guessing everyone made it in a couple of pieces.

Did you cover the large 2"x2" square tube that runs across the chassis behind the dash and down the sides (where the door hinges fasten) or leave it bare? Note the aluminum panel that fits in front of the tunnel runs up to the top of the 2"x2" square tube so at least that section will have to be covered.

Did you make the rear bulkhead one piece from door striker to door striker or piece it at the bends behind the seats (making it a 3 piece section)?

Did you attempt to cover the chassis tubes that run along the sides and bottom of each footwell or leave them as is? I chose the black powdercoating option from FFR so the tubes are a nice glossy black.

Any other carpet tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do intent to have the edges bound on all of the major pieces and/or joints.

As always, many thanks for your help.

Ron

[CraigS]

I sewed a lot of binding on many of my carpet peices. I am old enough to have worked on a lot of 60s and 70s British sports cars and this is how they did it. There was no such thing as molded carpet then so they were dealing w/ the same thing we are now. I am finding that this will take forever to describe in text so here was my general plan. I don't like the idea of just butt joining carpet cause it eventually gaps open. So, as I was going around the cockpit I tried to make all joints w/ a bound edge piece over top of the other piece w/ about an inch overlap.Just had to make decisions on which were bound and which were hidden.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/IMG_20130130_155338_046_zps9903feb8.jpg
this shows looking in driver door. The vertical parts were mostly unbound pieces glued on w/ at least an inch of extra carpet to allow overlap.The vertical piece w/ the choke knob exends down onto the trans tunnel top. The trans tunnel is one big piece bound on front and rear sides so it covers the rear edges of the footwell inner side pieces and the bottom of the choke knob piece. note that the piece under the seat is bound on all sides except the front which extends down into the dropped footbox and onto that floor. Then the floor piece is bound on all 4 sides.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/IMG_20130130_155444_863_zps369ddcb2.jpg
This is the back of the tunnel. Behind the seats is the only place I butt joined pieces together and they extended around onto the rear angled sides of the trans tunnel and up over the top. Then I made a piece w/ sides bound to just sit on top of the slanted rear of the tunnel and the front edge of it extends under the main tunnel cover piece. I have a parcel shelf behind the seats so all those pieces were shorter than usual. HTH

[KC Wildcat]

No right or wrong. I have not build a roadster (yet), but done lots of car work. If you are going with premium carpet, you should go all the way and use edge binding....it really completes that finished look. I mostly agree with how CraigS did it, leave a little overlap. I would however try to minimize the number of pieces - too many pieces make the binding more obvious and draw your eye to it.

I learned a long time ago with ceramic tile..if the grout is a shade lighter than the tile, you notice the tile more; if it is darker than the tile, you notice the grout lines and pattern of how you laid the tile out.

[skullandbones]

SCFFR,

You are a workaholic! But seriously: I have a MkIII and the carpet set may not be the same as yours but here goes. I have five peices in right now. I did three layers of insulation (did a thread on it). During the templating from the carpet peices, I learned a lot. My large back peice is not from striker to striker. There are two smaller peices that interface with it (straight side) and fit the curve next to the striker. I installed the back peice (no glue) so it will be removed a little later to bind the bottom to cover floor peice and trans tunnel peice. The striker peices will be bound to overlap the back peice on both sides.

Here is a rule of thumbs from sailmaking and carpet finishing. Never show the edge of the binding. Always situate the binding to see the top of it only. That way the open space under the binding does not show and it does not catch debris when the seams are horizontal. In other words the seam is always facing away from your eye to hid the opening between the carpet peices. This is also done in wood working with trim.

I am binding the whole transmission tunnel cover so it will be on top of the little peice transitioning to the back peice, the floor peices, and the front transmission tunnel peice. The front trans tunnel peice is installed and glued. It is one peice that covers the inside of each foot box and the vertical center of the trans tunnel. That center part does cover the 2x2 metal but just over the trans tunnel. The floor peices are installed but need about three inches of binding in one area inside front on both sides. So I will hand sew the binding there. There are three drivers side peices: floor, front and outside all bound. The outside peice will have to be supplimented with a bought peice as the mod I did will take more carpet. The passenger side will have two peices (front and side together) and the floor all bound. On the passenger side most of the frame rails will be covered where on the drivers side the floor bar and the forward vertical will be exposed. The two under door peices will be bound and installed last.

Another way to join some of the carpet peices is to use carpet tape on the back and make it one. If you do that seam in a no traffic area it will work especially if the two peices are folded top side toward each other with no fringe showing. I have many rolls of binding so it will not be spared. Craig had some very nice pics. That's good work. Oh I forgot one thing. I am using a charcoal binding on black carpet and a red thread for accent. Just my personal preference. It does add a nice touch to accent when possible. Good luck, WEK.

[SCFFR]

As always, you guys are great! I certainly appreciate all of the information you provided and will certainly help me in my carpet project. Like many of you, I'm very detailed and just didn't think the FFR supplied carpet would do what I wanted so went with the Bentley upgrade since we all know that the amount of time and effort is the same regardless of the carpet. I could have probably saved a few dollars by ordering the carpet myself but the upholstery guy has always been great about stopping what he was doing and working on my stuff since he knows I have a 50 mile round trip to his shop.
Also ordered 2 yds of a lesser grade carpet for the trunk. Have all of the paper patterns cut and fitted. Just need to figure out how to keep them in place yet still be able to access the battery (FF metal box) and the two accesses over the fuel tank. Have a bag full of carpet fasteners used on older MG's (see pics - Craig I'm sure you have used these too) so will try to put them to use.
The Moroso battery cutoff switch I ordered from Summit arrived yesterday so will make a bracket for it and get it fastened in the trunk.

I definitely like the binding on the carpet.............just gives it that finished look. On the MG's I've restored, I would glue a strip of black vinyl material in all of the joints where the carpet would fit to hide the sound deadener from showing through but might take the easy route and paint the joints with some flat black paint.
Will also pick up a couple yards of jute padding when I get the carpet and install it around the trans tunnel and floor pans just to add a little more insulation. It also helps soften the feel of the carpet instead of gluing it directly to the aluminum panel.

Craig - thanks for the pics............very helpful.

Off to the garage for another fun-filled day!
15086

[Mesa Mike]

Interesting, I talked to a local shop and they recommend the Bentley too. I guess it's the best quality on the market?

[SCFFR]

Mike,
Before he recommended the Bentley carpet, he asked about the shape of the trans tunnel. I told him it was flat on the top and sides so he commented that would not be a problem. If it had been a traditional rounded tunnel that got narrower as it went to the back of the car, the Bentley wouldn't have been the right choice. The backing is thicker and stiffer so you can't "mold" it but it will fold over our flat sided tunnels. Also, it has a thicker weave so if you do bend it, the fibers don't separate to show the backing. Considered using Wilton wool carpet until I saw the $80-/$90 a yard cost (Bentley is around $50) and it is even stiffer so bending the almost 90 degree angle at the tunnel would be a challenge...........you have probably seen a few cars that have a vinyl edging at the top of the tunnel where it bends down. It's done that way since the carpet won't bend.

To me it makes sense to get the best carpet that will work for our application. The work to install it is the same regardless of the grade.

Hopefully the carpet will come in the first of the week and I can get started.

Ron

[SCFFR]

Mike,
Before he recommended the Bentley carpet, he asked about the shape of the trans tunnel. I told him it was flat on the top and sides so he commented that would not be a problem. If it had been a traditional rounded tunnel that got narrower as it went to the back of the car, the Bentley wouldn't have been the right choice. The backing is thicker and stiffer so you can't "mold" it but it will fold over our flat sided tunnels. Also, it has a thicker weave so if you do bend it, the fibers don't separate to show the backing. Considered using Wilton wool carpet until I saw the $80-/$90 a yard cost (Bentley is around $50) and it is even stiffer so bending the almost 90 degree angle at the tunnel would be a challenge...........you have probably seen a few cars that have a vinyl edging at the top of the tunnel where it bends down. It's done that way since the carpet won't bend.

To me it makes sense to get the best carpet that will work for our application. The work to install it is the same regardless of the grade.

Hopefully the carpet will come in the first of the week and I can get started.

Ron

[Rotorcraft]

How many yards to do the interior of the FFR roadster? How many to do the trunk?

Thanks !

Jeff




Mike,
Before he recommended the Bentley carpet, he asked about the shape of the trans tunnel. I told him it was flat on the top and sides so he commented that would not be a problem. If it had been a traditional rounded tunnel that got narrower as it went to the back of the car, the Bentley wouldn't have been the right choice. The backing is thicker and stiffer so you can't "mold" it but it will fold over our flat sided tunnels. Also, it has a thicker weave so if you do bend it, the fibers don't separate to show the backing. Considered using Wilton wool carpet until I saw the $80-/$90 a yard cost (Bentley is around $50) and it is even stiffer so bending the almost 90 degree angle at the tunnel would be a challenge...........you have probably seen a few cars that have a vinyl edging at the top of the tunnel where it bends down. It's done that way since the carpet won't bend.

To me it makes sense to get the best carpet that will work for our application. The work to install it is the same regardless of the grade.

Hopefully the carpet will come in the first of the week and I can get started.

Ron

[KC Wildcat]

Ron, I believe the way to secure the carpet in the trunk is to use velcro on the parts you want to make removeable. The other stuff can be a spray or autocarpet adhesive. Of course velcro works for that too.

[SCFFR]

Jeff - from the posts I researched, looks like 6 yds of carpet (72" or more wide") is needed for the car and another 2 yds (at 72" or more wide) for the trunk. I can let you know once I get started if these amounts are right unless someone else can comment.

Thanks for the tip on the Velcro............most likely the way I will go. I just like the old English snaps so wanted to at least try and use them.

Thanks again,

Ron

[SCFFR]

Jeff - from the posts I researched, looks like 6 yds of carpet (72" or more wide") is needed for the car and another 2 yds (at 72" or more wide) for the trunk. I can let you know once I get started if these amounts are right unless someone else can comment.

Thanks for the tip on the Velcro............most likely the way I will go. I just like the old English snaps so wanted to at least try and use them.

Thanks again,

Ron

Not sure why, but the last two times I posted using the Quick Reply, it has double posted my reply. Sorry.

[Rotorcraft]

Thanks
Jeff


Jeff - from the posts I researched, looks like 6 yds of carpet (72" or more wide") is needed for the car and another 2 yds (at 72" or more wide) for the trunk. I can let you know once I get started if these amounts are right unless someone else can comment.

Thanks for the tip on the Velcro............most likely the way I will go. I just like the old English snaps so wanted to at least try and use them.

Thanks again,

Ron

Not sure why, but the last two times I posted using the Quick Reply, it has double posted my reply. Sorry.