Popular Build Options and Costs for Non Donor Build 65 Coupe

[NukeCoupe]

I still have not started a Coupe build. I have tools and talent (paint, weld, mechanical know how) but I don't know a lot about mixing and matching engines/Trans/gearing and so forth to build a great all around 65 Coupe.
I would like to build a "popular" car meaning one that when it is finished will be one that is desirable to own by most any one looking to own one.
(Right sized engine, horse power, transmission, drive line and suspension).
I don't have a lot of time so I prefer to use mostly all new parts and minimize doing any extensive modifications. To sum it up, I would like to get the most bang for the buck, not skimping but not overdoing it either to obtain a quality fun car.
1. I would like to get recommendations for FFR kit and options, and recommended engines, trans, drive line etc. and briefly explain pro's and cons.
2. Can it be done for around $40,000 or under?
3. Does anyone offer any package deals/options on all new parts needed to complete the build? (Like a donor pallet except with all new parts)
4. Any historical estimates on hours to build one out of the box? (They say about 200 mhs for the roadster I think but that probably just the factory kit.)
5. If I needed to sell it after I build it, could I sell it for more than it cost? (Assuming a quality build and I don't have to pay labor costs for painting)?
6. Estimated market value on the completed car while its still new?
7. Meatballs or not? (I like em:cool:).

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

[loeffler1]

Get a FFR complete kit, Ford crate engine and T5 tranny. This should do it for starters. Don't want to scare you but I have over 1200 hours in my build, and still need paint and reassembly. Granted I've added a whole lot of extras, but no serious stuff like Ron Schofield. Hey, Ron how many hours?? I would expect yoy could build it for $40,000 if you do all work yourself. Body work costs, but with the red bodies now there is less work. As for selling it, who wants to?? I expect in todays market maybe break even. Once the economy heals specialty cars will probably do better. Barrett Jackson reportedly sold one with a Chevy (blasphemous) motor for a reported $58,000 I think. Definitely meatballs!!

[RonSchofield]

Get a FFR complete kit, Ford crate engine and T5 tranny. This should do it for starters. Don't want to scare you but I have over 1200 hours in my build, and still need paint and reassembly. Granted I've added a whole lot of extras, but no serious stuff like Ron Schofield. Hey, Ron how many hours??

A rough guess is about 4500.

I work on it at least 3 nights a week steady. Some weekends. I guess average about 15 hours a week. I have been at it for about 6 years. But I am as wacky as they come in building my coupe. I have escaped from the straight jacket about 20 times now.. :rolleyes:

I have about 750 blog postings on my build site and I am way behind in my postings. I have taken over 7000 photos of my build.

I have a year of work just on the interior of my coupe and that is just the rough work.

BUT HEY.. It's the journey isn't it...

[kiki231]

haha-- i have seen rons car-- sublime!

I have about 75 hours into mine, and should have another 30 or so to get it ready for body work and paint -- which i am farming out...

As far as options go, I completely took the easy route -- I ordered a box stock complete kit, with the intention of making it look like a racer. I have a 3 link setup, but I am sure IRS would be a more desirable option to certain buyers. Since I wanted more of a purist approach, i bought a carb'd 347 stroker and stuck on a QT bell and TKO. I know from years of drag racing that combo will be as simple and reliable, yet gimme a solid 450hp.

I feel truly that beyond that , most buyers will want a well executed build above all else--in other words, add-ons and bells are great only if they work and "fit" with the car. Inside they will want to see a "quality" interior-- even if its just bare aluminum, a well executed build wont have misaligned rivets, gaps in joints, rough edges, etc. Secondly, the bodywork is often the most expensive part of the build for good reason. People will judge the car by its outward presence. Its a shame that some cars I have seen in person at the cobra meets look like the builder was fabulous at metal work and mechanical fastidiousness, yet orange peel on the body , or misaligned doors makes the whole thing look bush league.

[Ray]

You can take a look here: http://www.breezeautomotive.com/home.php?cat_id=51 for some complete engine, suspension packages.

Ray

[willy]

yes you sould do well with 40K, but like everything you have to look for the deal if you do not the sky is the limit, I think I am about 30K and did all work my self from frame to paint , some engine mods etc and turned out good I think 15017 15018 like I said the sky is the limit

[NukeCoupe]

Willy, did you use all new parts?
Do you have a build site with details / specs / suppliers?
Thanks!

[loeffler1]

Ron

The journey is what it's about. I just get scared sometimes that once it's done I won't have any fun in the shop any more. Albeit I'll have the fun of driving.

[willy]

Did not use all new stuff, the improtant thing is to take your time and wait for the parts you want and when they come along at the price you want jump on them and time well spend is to shop around remember there is always a sale someplace, also look at e-bay and craiglist, for example I got my rims on craigslist for $350, 1 of them one was bent but only need four they are Edelbrooks go for $325 for 1 , I did not want to do a cheap build but also did not want to just throw money at it, like I said before these car are custom from top to bottom and the sky is the limit, the important thing is to have FUN and make it yours and if it is done on a budget or unlimited funds they are ALL SPECIAL. and remember the idea of FF5 is a middle class guy can build a supercar

[NukeCoupe]

Thanks guys, in order to afford one, I'm weighing options to build an sell them to pay for one for me. I've tried fixing up some salvage vehicles but the return is not too great for the time and resources spend fixing it up. I do buy a lot of parts and tools on E-bay and Amazon. You can find some amazing deals over retail. From my perspective, if I were buying a kit car from someone, I would prefer to buy a new one instead of a new car with used parts. For a self built keeper, used/refurbished parts are ok, (I buy used cars for my personal use). Also I can save some time by not having to clean, inspect, and refurbish parts like I've been doing for the salvage vehicles I've repaired. Another good thing about building one or more before I build the keeper is that you learn from each one and improve on the next one, and hopefully get faster.
So referring back to my thread starter, that is why I am soliciting "popular" and "value" engine and drive line options.
I appreciate all your response's so keep them coming!

[NukeCoupe]

Curious, I have a 97 F150 with the 4.6. I've always been impressed with it's power for such a small V8. I also like the intake. 15029
Would this fit under the hood r is it too tall? Would the mounts work? Just at a thought.

[willy]

get with Tim Potts I think he did a 4.6 coupe

[Timb]

Curious, I have a 97 F150 with the 4.6. I've always been impressed with it's power for such a small V8. I also like the intake. 15029
Would this fit under the hood r is it too tall? Would the mounts work? Just at a thought.
Yes a 4.6 will fit and it bolts right to the stock mount pads on the coupe. With regards to the F150 I believe it uses a taller intake you would need to swap to the mustang style. TimP did a beautiful DOHC 4.6 and I am working on a SOHC. Main mods you will need to look at will be foot box aluminum (we bought the roadster 4.6 pieces) and exhaust. I am adapting the stock manifolds with J pipes to the dual side pipes but other have used the single roadster pipes with headers.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0MNYJRY-5mA/UOoCqpeFpLI/AAAAAAAAAP8/XKlX6sy4JfM/s1600/IMG_6580.JPG

[CraigS]

One of the key cost factors is the engine. But not just the engine itself. What a given hp level will force you to upgrade the trans/clutch to. Stay w/ a 302-331 and stay under 325hp or so and you can use a stock type clutch and stock T-5. And w/ 355 rear gears will be plenty fast. Or you could go w/ something like a truck 351 and leave it stock or install some Thumper heads or Edelbrock heads and intake kit. If you do the 351 at the start, your exhaust and intake manifolds will fit any upgrades you want later. The 351 intake and exhaust are different from 302 so decide early.