Engine removal

[Ngoforth]

I have a completed MK3 and have ordered a new engine. Is there any tips or tricks to removing and installing the engine other than don't drop it on the car?

[FRANKRAT]

Jack up the back of the car and you can get the whole engine transmission package at the same time

[GWL]

The guy that originally made these cars used to use ramps to jack up the rear when they installed their engines. I don't know how often they did it but there is a picture I've seen that shows them doing it.

I was planing to have the car backed up on ramps. It will give you more room underneath the car to fit the rear end of the transmission through without tilting the engine as much.

However, as I'm thinking about it here it will be a greater distance to raise the rear end of the transmission up and into position.

Any real experience here?

George

PS: Edit-at first the name of the 'Original Builder', from the '60's, was blocked out. That's OK with me, I just had to reword my first sentence and will do so in the future.

[Kevin Davis]

Never thought of the jack up the back idea, that's a good one. the angle is the toughie. Protect that front tube with something (the 3/4" radiator support at the top).

The load leveler on an engine hoist works pretty well.

I don't know if it'll help, but you can watch me put a motor in by myself with the car on my lift in this video. I don't have a body on my car, so it's a little different, but might give you some ideas beyond simple pictures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJ0KzcbPWx0&feature=player_embedded

[David Williamson]

I don't know why you would jack up the back. A standard engine hoist will not reach from the front and the frame is too low for it to roll under the car. So I pulled the complete engine/trans from the side. Take the hood off, Jack up the front and remove a wheel so the hoist has space to roll under the car, protect the paint and go at it.
David W

[Bob Cowan]

I'v done this job a dozen times, it's not a big deal. It takes me about 4-5 hours to get the engine on a stand. And then about 6-7 hours to get it back in and running.

Start by disconnecting and removing everything from the top of the car that you can; intake, lines, wires, alternater, etc. Then jack up the front and rear, so you can crawl around under there and disconnect everything underneath. The I put front of the frame on about 6" of wood blocks - that's the height of my crane legs.

You want to get the engine leveler as close to the engine as possible. Get it way down low. I have a tall intake, so I remove it from the engine.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/Engine2006_029small.jpg

Unbolt the block from the bellhousing and leave the BH attached to the trans. Remove the front pulley.

There is no need to remove the hood. That saves a lot of time, and helps prevent "accidents" with the hood.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/Engine2006_030small.jpg

Just remove it carefully and slowly, and it will slide right out. Mine is a 351, so it's a smidgen taller and wider than a 302.

Putting it back is is almost the exact opposite. But there are a couple of little tricks that make the job real easy. During assembly, assemble the clutch very cary carefull. Use a quality splined clutch alignment tool - not the cheap round plastic bits many clutch companies include with the kit. I use a transmission input shaft from a broken trans. You should be able to move the tool in and out with gently finger pressure.

Using a digital level, check the level of the front of the bellhousing as it sits in your car. Make sure the engine is at the same level when it's hanging on the crane.

In this picture, you can see short pieces of All-Thread sticking out the back. These act as long alignment dowels to guide the engine into place. Once the block/BH alignment dowels are engaged, you can use the bolts to gently draw it together that last 1/2"

These simple steps will make it slide together like butter.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/Engine2006_033small.jpg

[3kcarbon]

I took off the frt wheels and got the frt as low as I could and still get the hoist under the car. It takes two people this way since the angle is still a littlle off to go under the firewall with the tranny. The arm on my lift is just barely log enough to go in from the frt. Some people swing the hoist arund the frt tires. Watch everything and don't rush it.

[Ngoforth]

Thanks guys. Bob, going at it from the side looks to be my best option at the moment. I have a 4 post lift so i may be able to put it on the lift and take it out on the side. I also thought about using the lift itself to pull the engine straight up and then push the car out from under the lift. At least now i have some more ideas and can only think about it until the new engine arrives.

[BigLeo69]

are you installing with the body on or is it removed, are you installing the tranny to the engine that makes it simple, and for bellhousing alignment a whole lot simpler to have it in one package and stab it in.
if its body off, set the blocks or stands for the lifts legs to get between them or around them. a 3 hole intake lift works fine, just bolt it up to the intake, the placement of the hoist lift point varies depending on what engine and tranny.
you want the tranny to dip down more its easier. i have taken mine out by myself but going in it helps to have 2.

[Ngoforth]

The car was completed in 2005 and been on the road since, so the body is on. It doesn't matter to me if i remove the transmission or not. just which ever way makes more sense I am just upgrading the engine a bit to gain some reliability. Going from a .30 over 351 to a levy racing stage 4.

[Rscocca]

I used a trolley hoist on the garage I beam, engine leveler and had the rear wheels up about 15 inches on a platform and rolled the car under the engine. Protect the nose of the car with a fender cover and some cardboard. take your time and go slow.
HTH
Bob S.