2002 WRX COPART Teardown and now CLEAN UP [Archive]

Erik W. Treves

01-18-2013, 05:48 PM

So...it finally arrived!

I thought we were going to have big problems getting the car off the trailer...well it pretty much rolled right off.

the good news: so it appears the previous owner loved his car. It has a ton of upgrades...aluminum control arms, cobb exhaust/down pipe and full stainless exhaust, headers, after market boost gauge, full frame rail support halo, performance springs, cobb pullies...only 74,000 miles on the clock!

the bad: The front hit really didn't look that bad, but! The pass. intake cam gear took a hit and broke off. which probably means the valves are bent...I was planning on changing the head gaskets anyway..so I guess we'll see.

anyway dove right in...4 hours in....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6184.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6185.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6190.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6188.jpg

Mechie3

01-18-2013, 06:01 PM

Looks like a whiteline antilift kit too. Cobb stuff isn't cheap. If the cam broke, you might be ok. The valves would be more likely to snap shut and not hit anything.

Erik W. Treves

01-19-2013, 06:08 PM

day 2 ..about 6 hours of work today.

Pulled the motor and tanny out of it and cut the front of the car off to the strut towers.
pulled the rear as an assembly but the e-brake cable are keeping in the car..so tomorrow I will attack the interior.

the car has a ton of goodies in it...front and rear COBB sway bars, Prodrive Springs, polly steering rack mounts, rear strut tower brace, stoptech rotors...looks like I will make some money back...hopefully...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6203.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6204.jpg

stack

01-20-2013, 04:09 PM

Great score Erik

Stack

GUNS

01-20-2013, 04:14 PM

Good work so far.

Erik W. Treves

01-20-2013, 09:15 PM

so..already sold some stuff...looking a bit smaller this evening...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6206.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6205.jpg

so net total...for the donor...(not including shipping and fees)....$750 :D

and turns out the subframe connector is $750 new ..wow...

wallace18

01-21-2013, 08:09 AM

Looking good so far. The trunk, hood and seats sold quick for me. You should be able to recover a lot from sales of not needed parts.

longislandwrx

01-21-2013, 09:00 AM

I see a silicone intake pipe and bonus Perrin catch can too. Good score.

Erik W. Treves

01-21-2013, 09:11 AM

yep! Steel braided brake line too!!

Maximus

01-21-2013, 09:45 AM

I just want to thank you for having a great thread and allowing me to live vicariously through this thread for the next 18 months. Then I get to join the party, keep up the great posts!

Erik W. Treves

01-21-2013, 06:13 PM

Getting smaller today::

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6231.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6233.jpg

oh and it had 15 gallons of gas in it....typical....

stack

01-21-2013, 06:57 PM

Nice free tank of gas to boot. You are looking at a free donor. Hope I am as lucky

Stack

Erik W. Treves

01-21-2013, 07:11 PM

yup sold another $350 worth of parts today and have to deliver another $180 worth tomorrow

stack

01-22-2013, 07:15 PM

U in the + yet?

Erik W. Treves

01-22-2013, 10:35 PM

yep! Between the the 1st car and the quick flip and now this silver car...as of 928 pm I am $400 +15 gallons of gas to the plus....and I have some donor parts that need to be gone through...I hope the engine isn't too bad...but at this point...I could spend $3000 doing all the clean ups and upgrades + wheels and tires...and I think I will be good...

The ONLY problem is that selling this stuff really is an all day thing...you have to check your accounts all day long or you might miss a sale..If you don't promptly respond the buyers just go somewhere else... I have spent no less than 4 hours each night answering PM's and texts...but in the end my donor if free...another $500 and my new/rebuilt tranny will be free too....lol...

shoot I even sold the "firewall" off the car... guy asked me if I had one...I said sure...didn't tell him it was in the "dump" pile...I was going to toss it..."who would want that?"....shows how much I know....

I am tired of it though..ready to start cleaning.

frankeeski

01-23-2013, 01:29 AM

Great thread Erik, I am enjoying watch you tear into it.

Kalstar

01-23-2013, 08:24 AM

Mechie3

01-23-2013, 09:12 AM

I made a thread somewhere with prices of stuff. Feel free to add to it so its all in one place. I agree selling parts can be a pain. Typical "omg want! " and when the part is actually off the car they change their mind, spent all their money on beer, or otherwise just disappear.

Erik W. Treves

01-23-2013, 05:43 PM

The best advice I can give is go to the NASIOC.com website and look at the parting out forum and you can get an idea of the high value items and what moves and what doesn't. The center diff for example is a quick $150-200 item. I got really lucky cause my car was upgraded/modified and most of all those parts are not needed for the 818.

Erik W. Treves

01-25-2013, 07:25 PM

KABOOM!!!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-01-25150045.jpg

Done...!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-01-25181947.jpg

Mechie3

01-25-2013, 07:31 PM

Nice work.

Gendaito

01-26-2013, 09:48 PM

You finished the teardown in a week? Strong work!

Erik W. Treves

01-26-2013, 09:59 PM

4 - six hour days days... Have already started inspected all the damaged components and have order replacements

Samiam1017

01-27-2013, 02:37 PM

wallace18

01-27-2013, 04:42 PM

Samiam1017

01-27-2013, 05:52 PM

Cool thx For the quick answer.

Erik W. Treves

01-28-2013, 10:39 AM

Ok. So far I have had to replace 3 of 4 lateral rear links (due to bushing being frozen onto the lower bolt that runs through the spindle). I had to replace the left front spindle since the hub bearings were toast from the impact. A new Pass side intake cam gear.. All in all about $250 worth of parts so far to make my donor whole...

Mechie3

01-28-2013, 01:08 PM

I guess this could be a question for Eric or mechie3 or any body that has gone as far as stripping the car completely and cutting up the car. What did you get in scrap value like this. I'm parting out three cars now and debating weather to do this or call somebody to come for the tubs? Ya I know a little off topic but not worth starting a thread over.

I got around $75 for steel and $20 for aluminum (though probably 1/4 of that was from something else).

Ok. So far I have had to replace 3 of 4 lateral rear links (due to bushing being frozen onto the lower bolt that runs through the spindle). I had to replace the left front spindle since the hub bearings were toast from the impact. A new Pass side intake cam gear.. All in all about $250 worth of parts so far to make my donor whole...

You replaced the whole link, or the bushing? I've cut the bolt before and pressed the bushing out and put in new 2 piece ones from TIC.

wallace18

01-28-2013, 01:36 PM

That bolt and nut is not cheap. I had to replace the one on the pass side of my donor.

Erik W. Treves

01-28-2013, 02:11 PM

the bushing was like $30..new arm was like $45...in any event both left were bent and the right rear was bent and the right front looked like it may have been slightly bent or I bent it trying to get it off....anyway...so new arm... the bolt is $35.. after 3 hours of try to mess with the first one ... I went right after the bolt the second go around.

lot's of fun!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15019&d=1359400350

Erik W. Treves

01-28-2013, 08:41 PM

so some cleaned up parts from the donor....should have a lot more this weekend.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6251.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6250.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6248.jpg

Maximus

01-28-2013, 08:51 PM

Beyond jealous. Can't believe I have to wait over a year to order. Keep the pics coming!

metalmaker12

01-28-2013, 11:20 PM

looking good Erik

Erik W. Treves

01-29-2013, 08:46 PM

one corner done :rolleyes:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15028&d=1359510436

Erik W. Treves

01-30-2013, 08:07 PM

well the brakes looked fine..clean and all...spindle looks clean...just needed a little more pop....so....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6253.jpg

oh and sold another $310 worth of parts...lol...

philly15

01-30-2013, 08:11 PM

nice touch on the calipers i cant wait to pick up my donor this week or next and do some cool stuff like that makes everything unique which is awesome

wallace18

01-31-2013, 06:33 AM

Nice touch on the caliper. Looks great.

Erik W. Treves

02-02-2013, 06:52 PM

All suspension components cleaned painted and prep'd and put away. Tranny is completely rebuilt... Engine teardown begins tomorrow....and then the wire haness...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15193&d=1359848990

metalmaker12

02-02-2013, 07:52 PM

I have held off on the harness, because I am assuming it will get wires added to it for the reconfigure

Erik W. Treves

02-02-2013, 08:24 PM

The harness needs to be dieted to get rid of all the items I don't plan on using.

metalmaker12

02-02-2013, 11:02 PM

I am with you on that, just waiting to see what they are doing to the harness first

Btw: we think alike, I have 818 templates to spray on the numbers on the calipers, but I do not copy a thing, so you beat me to it

Erik W. Treves

02-03-2013, 08:03 AM

copy away...makes no difference to me...the nicer we make these cars the better it will be for others and for resale..I don't plan on keeping the first 2

timmy318

02-03-2013, 08:15 AM

Love the idea about the calipers! Looks pretty great!

Erik W. Treves

02-03-2013, 09:19 AM

they took a while to do cause I wanted to get the clear to seal the decal and if you go too thick on the clear it kills the decal...so you have to build it up real slow over several days.

Xusia

02-03-2013, 01:25 PM

So it's a decal? Interesting. I thought it was paint. I like the font - did you make them yourself?

metalmaker12

02-03-2013, 01:35 PM

You can use a decal and clear over it, or paint it on with a stencil and color of choice, I have done it either way.

wleehendrick

02-03-2013, 02:58 PM

copy away...makes no difference to me...

I'll be doing the same... I saw the decal under clearcoat on a Porsche forum and it turned out well.

I'm starting to collect ideas since I'm buying the 06 donor DrAwender put up for sale here

Erik W. Treves

02-03-2013, 04:52 PM

teardown complete to short block and replacement of head gaskets and water pump.. the cylinders still have cross hatch in them.

going to take the heads to the machine shop this week.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6264_zps5724a7a3.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6265_zps49cd78a0.jpg

metalmaker12

02-03-2013, 05:32 PM

hey erik, you going stock, or you going to beef it up. nice tear down, btw, you seem to have a lot of time to do this. I work on my stuff at night after work and sundays since i work sat.

Erik W. Treves

02-04-2013, 10:13 AM

I am going back, mostly stock (ARP bolts for reassembly). I am getting the heads gone through and valves replaced..4 were bent. Going to redo the valve adjustment, GATES timing belt kit. Going a different route on BOV and intercooler.

As far as my schedule...time management!!...and instant gratification syndrome. I just have a plan each day before I go out to the car.. have a plan and execute the plan (no side tracking...my OCD helps here as well)... I haven't worked more than 4-5 hours at a time on it. The engine teardown only took about 3 hours with breaks and drinking a few (ok several)...I also clean the garage after each day.

For example. The suspension components, I sprayed everthing down with PB blaster and degreaser after work one night (Friday) and went to sleep. Sat morning washed down (with TSP) the fronts, while that was drying (by the heater), broke apart the rear and washed those and let those dry (more heater).. paint the fronts since the they were dry and HOT now (paint sets up quicker)... by the time I got done with the fronts, the back was ready for paint...paint those, let hang, clean up, go inside... done..4 hours on sat.

I expect this week to have the heads to the machine shop, paint the block and intake (these items were already washdown yesterday and are now dry and clean), finish up the calipers...and clean the garage some...getting ready to attack the harness this weekend. Big thing...all the dirty work is done!!!

metalmaker12

02-04-2013, 06:43 PM

I am going to clean the harness this weekend also, my dirty work is done as well. Kind of work on a similar time schedule.

Erik W. Treves

02-05-2013, 07:58 PM

another hour in garage after work....heads are at machine shop...block inspected and painted still have to replace coolant lines, cleaned up one valve cover ( I know the 818 is upside down...will fix after it dries) and finished the last coats on all 4 calipers...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6266_zps9cf09edf.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6269_zps890c1c25.jpg

Erik W. Treves

02-07-2013, 07:25 PM

Got home from work today..opened the garage....PRESENTS!!!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-07180054_zpsb096bf01.jpg

Complete Gates timing belt kit

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-07180329_zpscf438e7a.jpg

Light Weight Pulley

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-07180454_zpsb6d77f89.jpg

Fresh Plastic to cover up my new timing belt

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-07180814_zpsaa4ea81c.jpg

Mechie3

02-07-2013, 07:51 PM

Some of those timing belt covers have little spongy seals on them when they come assembled from the factory. Don't remember which ones, and it might just be the rear covers.

RM1SepEx

02-07-2013, 09:05 PM

I do miss those days of receiving boxes of parts... header, drilled and slotted brake rotors and pads, lightened flywheel, clutch, timing belt kit, water and oil pump, misc seals, sti control arms etc...

You are doing a bang up job. I didn't do my head gasket based on 70k miles and great compression. I went the powder coating route for the covers, brackets etc... Eastwood ceramic paint for the calipers... The front and rear bearing carriers/uprights are a PITA to refinish! Are you doing a PS and AC delete? I expect AC is damn handy where you are... Don't need it up in the frozen north!

Erik W. Treves

02-07-2013, 10:06 PM

thanks for the comments....I am using ceramic paint as well covered with high gloss 500 degree clear... I will most likely be keeping AC and heat based on wanting to do a coupe or soft top. Learned my lesson on my first cobra..the AC/heat was a must for defrost. As far as the rest of it..once I saw I had bent valves on the pass side head...open season on the rest of it..full inspection..so I have a rebuilt tranny now as well to match...replaced over $500 worth of bearings in that as well...hope this is a one and done affair. SHould look pretty slick sitting in the car....we'll see I guess.

RM1SepEx

02-07-2013, 10:28 PM

1534715348

My trans got a quaife and two new carrier bearings... over 100 each from Scoobybaru! You are making up for lost time very rapidly! My Copart donor arrived last summer!

The wiring looks like the only daunting part...

Erik W. Treves

02-08-2013, 06:05 PM

well manage to take the "bones" to the recycle yard and the donor keeps paying me...lol..nice

Got home and there was plenty of day left so....the wiring...

1. first on the list was to see if I could still make head and tails of the mess
2. Hook everything up I could and power the harness and ECU
3. Delete airbags, AC controls, radio
4. Figure out how the heck the auto works so I can fool it to think it is still an auto, but with a 5 speed...

power up - check

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08143626_zps7581e3fb.jpg

auto plugged back in

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08162316_zpsc9f9f714.jpg

CLutch pedal out = D

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08162121_zps63de2cad.jpg

CLutch pedal depressed = P

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08162152_zpsf4b64bde.jpg

extra weight

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08162328_zps0b0fc8f7.jpg

and.....

MORE PRESENTS!!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08164659_zps57cd9ba2.jpg

Full head gasket set and the rest of the new plastic!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-08164919_zps701b611b.jpg

Erik W. Treves

02-09-2013, 06:04 PM

work more than my normal few hours today... got quite a bit done though...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6293_zps65ef713c.jpg

painted all the tops of thebolts as well....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6294_zpseab15531.jpg

Test fit the plastic to see how many bolts I was missing, changed all the idler pulleys, tensioner and water pump

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6295_zps9072e3dd.jpg

Mechie3

02-09-2013, 06:15 PM

You should do a TGV delete. Make more power, and lose some bulk around the manifold.

Erik W. Treves

02-09-2013, 06:26 PM

rjh2pd

02-09-2013, 07:07 PM

was thinking about doing that, but I am going to start stock and move from there until I learn my way around the motor and tune. I already have a second set of TGV's that I ordered on stand by that I will switch out with some new/bigger injectors should it be required...baby steps for now...
I think you can just take out the valves and leave the motors in so they can spin and keep the ecu happy, as well as the inspection people.

Erik W. Treves

02-09-2013, 08:05 PM

yes you can take the butterflies out and leave the bar in there...but like I said...staying stock for a baseline until it goes down to VeryCoolParts.com land, aka the house of power, where we will put the bigger turbo and tune on it..more than likely :D

Erik W. Treves

02-09-2013, 08:33 PM

Bkafe

02-10-2013, 02:09 PM

As far as my schedule...time management!!...and instant gratification syndrome. I just have a plan each day before I go out to the car.. have a plan and execute the plan (no side tracking...my OCD helps here as well)... I haven't worked more than 4-5 hours at a time on it. The engine teardown only took about 3 hours with breaks and drinking a few (ok several)...I also clean the garage after each day.

Would this "plan" happen to be documented? It would benefit the community (especially me) a ton if you were willing to share your experiences here! Plan versus actual would be interesting info as well... (yeah I'm a PM). This is my first build/teardown, so the task list, task order and time commitment for tasks are an unknown.

Even the raw info would be helpful, as an online spreadsheet could be created and shared (I am happy to help compile the info if needed).

Brian

Erik W. Treves

02-10-2013, 03:22 PM

I haven't documented more than I already put on this thread. I just looked at the list of stuff we need and look at the car and pick a target and go. The tools that each of us have are different and mechanical history is as well...what works for me or my plan may not be optimum to all...also my donor is an auto. Normally, FFR has teardown instructions in the kit..at least they did when the roadsters first came out... long way of saying....I didn't/won't write anything down, just free flowing experience and work at a comfortable pace.

Martin

02-10-2013, 03:29 PM

I for one, can't wait to see your build and Wayne's own build come together. They will both be complete animals!

Martin

yes you can take the butterflies out and leave the bar in there...but like I said...staying stock for a baseline until it goes down to VeryCoolParts.com land, aka the house of power, where we will put the bigger turbo and tune on it..more than likely :D

Erik W. Treves

02-10-2013, 03:47 PM

They should come out pretty good I think....

Here's an hour and half this morning

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-10_121521_zpse0af3105.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-10_121626_zps2086e22a.jpg

Mechie3

02-10-2013, 04:03 PM

How did you clean the block?

Erik W. Treves

02-10-2013, 04:40 PM

Engine degreaser followed by wire toothbrush and TSP and then a spray bath with denatured alcohol...then paint.

metalmaker12

02-10-2013, 06:57 PM

The ej engines will pass inspection with no tgv's, i have done it on all my wrx's. I even passed us emissions with a jdm ecu about five years ago, but they are changing to newer inspection systems that won't be so kind. It is not a huge difference, about 10-12hp at best. My ej207 does not have them, so i am not worried about them, but it is a easy upgrade.

wleehendrick

02-10-2013, 08:49 PM

The ej engines will pass inspection with no tgv's,

Not in CA where a visual inspection must confirm no non-CARB approved modifications!

Mechie3

02-10-2013, 08:53 PM

I love CA, go to Orange County a lot for work, but I'm glad I don't have to deal with the asinine laws they have.

Wayne Presley

02-10-2013, 10:31 PM

That engine looks great Erik

Erik W. Treves

02-11-2013, 11:13 AM

Thanks...just following your formula ;)

Erik W. Treves

02-11-2013, 03:35 PM

Well...suffered a little set back today...the machine shop called and informed me that my heads are cracked... #3 is cracked from the spark plug hole to each of the valves, #2 same thing only 1 crack though, #1 has 2 cracks and #4 has 3 cracks. Looked on the forum and seems to be fairly common...most say to run it if it passes pressure check...which mine do, but with my luck it would pop on the dyno. Not going to put my name on the car if there is an unknown anywhere in the motor....so.....the search for some new heads begins!

rjh2pd

02-11-2013, 03:40 PM

I've heard you can have people weld those cracks up and then ground down. Brianmobile1or something like that just made a YouTube video about it. Maybe look into that first.

Edit: here is the video i was talking about :::: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kd5qK74wCmA

stack

02-11-2013, 07:35 PM

send me the formula

stack

Erik W. Treves

02-12-2013, 09:45 PM

Well after a frustrating day looking for new heads...phone calls that were not returned and heads sold between phone calls...rrrr... I came home to a small box from summit and figured it would be good therapy to just take an hour on the kitchen table and join the engine harness back to the intake...of course....we can't leave that stock either...so I ripped off all that plastic crap and applied some (what I think) is a clean/thinner solution. No wire diet yet here so it will even be less by the time it's finished, but looks better already....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-12203051_zps1815a05e.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-12203118_zps820e736f.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-12203137_zps6b6cff17.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-12203209_zpsaa653bed.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-12203309_zps7e33408c.jpg

wallace18

02-12-2013, 09:57 PM

Looks good. I did similar and used clamps instead of the plastic holder.

Mechie3

02-12-2013, 10:11 PM

I like it. I might just have to borrow this idea.

Erik W. Treves

02-13-2013, 09:29 AM

After I got done, it seems to me that I can still cut the harness down some more...we'll call this v1...lol...it's ok, but until I get it sitting on the engine and in the car I won't know for sure....more to follow on this chapter I guess.

Mechie3

02-13-2013, 10:18 AM

On my car (back when it was a car) I cut the harness down as much as the rules would allow and change the routing so everything was hidden under the manifold. I hated how they routed the wire right over the turbo inlet.

Erik W. Treves

02-14-2013, 08:23 PM

so here some pics of the head cracks so you can look out for them. I am "told" that if the cracks don't extend to seat, you are fine...this engine had 76,000 miles on it... The subi dealer said this was very common to the 2.0 head.

Crack at 3 o'clock is bad...the one at 6 is ok

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-14191310_zps7dd82f6a.jpg

Crack at 8 is bad

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-14191222_zps2a05927e.jpg

and crack at 4 is bad

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-14191158_zps3d789131.jpg

Xusia

02-15-2013, 12:08 AM

Is there a way to know if there are cracks WITHOUT removing the heads? Or should I just plan on removing the heads and inspecting it? Also, let's say they go undected. What's the symptom and what will happen if left uncorrected (this is out of curiosity, NOT because I would EVER plan to leave a problem unfixed!)?

wallace18

02-15-2013, 06:18 AM

I would remove the heads. It is the only way to be sure. In the old days with cast iron heads you could magnaflux them. Not so with aluminum. Clean and inspect with a magnifyng glass is what I do.

Erik W. Treves

02-15-2013, 07:51 AM

You would probably never notice the crack (according to subi) until it worked to valve seat and then you wouldn't notice anything until the valve seat popped out...then you would notice it! The cracks aways start from the spark plug hole.

Mechie3

02-15-2013, 08:39 AM

The STI (VF39) turbos are similar. They almost all develop a crack starting at the wastegate. You never know until you take it off and then there it is.

philly15

02-15-2013, 09:43 PM

The STI (VF39) turbos are similar. They almost all develop a crack starting at the wastegate. You never know until you take it off and then there it is.

except for the part where those cracks really didnt cause issues at all, in the case of the heads ive owned three 2.0 L wrx's and none of them had this issue all were well beyond the common "stage 2" setup so i would think this cracking would have to do with constant overheating whether it be bad tuning, excessive detonation etc etc

metalmaker12

02-15-2013, 10:06 PM

I would agree that this motor saw some excessive overheating and or detonation. Maybe a bad tune, or just a manuel boost control with no tune is more common. Once you get the ecu hooked up with a tuning program you will see if it was flashed etc. I would get some refurbished heads

Erik W. Treves

02-15-2013, 10:21 PM

it didn't have a manual boost controller......new heads will be here next weekend. I did not see any signs of over heating or detonation and the cylinders and pistons look great and have good color...a lot of speculation....I guess we'll see what the ECU has to say after I look at it.

philly15

02-16-2013, 10:25 AM

yea just pull rom raiders learning view on it quick and it will tell you a lot thats what i normally do when i look at used cars if the IAM dropped at all i walk away from it no questions asked ticks a lot of people off but can save ya in the long run

Erik W. Treves

02-16-2013, 04:39 PM

so I decided to do some more mock-up to make sure the wiring all still reached and I can still account for all the lines and hoses...also to make sure my colors are working out...the heads are still the old ones.. should look pretty good when sitting in the car. Still a little more cleaning to do...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6300_zpsa475c767.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6302_zps53335942.jpg

wallace18

02-16-2013, 05:04 PM

Great job so far. It will look great in the car.

timmy318

02-16-2013, 06:59 PM

Your engine looks beautiful! Just pulled my engine out of my crate from AWJ Performance and now it's my turn to get my hands dirty! Any advice on how to clean stuff etc...?

apexanimal

02-16-2013, 08:25 PM

Engine degreaser followed by wire toothbrush and TSP and then a spray bath with denatured alcohol...then paint..

Mmm

timmy318

02-16-2013, 08:53 PM

.

Mmm

Lol, didn't see that :p!

apexanimal

02-16-2013, 09:51 PM

;) I help where I can

metalmaker12

02-17-2013, 12:06 AM

Looking good bro , you getting new heads soon.

Erik W. Treves

02-17-2013, 08:31 AM

should be here Friday :D

longislandwrx

02-18-2013, 10:15 AM

Any reason you are keeping the green brackets of death... i guess black brackets of death in your case.

did you port your TGVs?

RM1SepEx

02-20-2013, 07:10 PM

155711557215570

I left the now black brackets of death (mine are powder coated black) because it looked cleaner with them vs. w/o them

Tell me about TGV delete, porting etc... options, advantages, wiring and computer issues???

Erik W. Treves

02-20-2013, 08:21 PM

There is benefit to TGV delete, but there are some noted issues. I personally have not executed this mod so I can only go from what I have read on the NASIOC forum. First and most important is that you have to have a tune to delete TGV. Also there is a cold start/cold idle lack of performance issue. It is reported that it goes away after the engine warms up. Personally I think with a tune the limiting factor will be the turbo before the TGV's limit you. For me, as I did with the cobra, I started bone stock and moved ahead with mods as I grew to know my car. Power to weight for me won't be an issue to control I think, so I want to understand where to put my effort and $$$$ with this motor and configuration. I have already seen this with the cobra...the mods to the mustang do not all cross over to the lighter weight cobra....my .02 FWIW.

As far as the brackets.....Cleaned up and painted/coated do i nice job hiding the wires. x2

rjh2pd

02-20-2013, 08:23 PM

For the TGV delete, you can just remove the butterfly valves and leave the motors for the valves in so it doesn't throw codes and put your car into limp mode. another option is to buy TGV delete and replace that part of the intake and get it tuned. another option is to remove the valves and the motor and plug the hole. here is a link to the last option (dont know how good it is) ... http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-16/Weldless-TGV-Delete-Kit/Detail

Also here is a link for more about TGV's http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663677

and a picture of where they are (plus on the other side)
15573

metalmaker12

02-20-2013, 09:32 PM

15581 I am lucky I don't have them, so I can just stay out of it, but I have deleted them on my other cars and on the dyno it is good for about 10hp

rjh2pd

02-20-2013, 09:49 PM

metal, is that to the wheels or at the crank?

philly15

02-20-2013, 09:51 PM

i got the tgvs ported/polished on mine i figured since i had the intake manifold off to do some sweet designing might as well have em done so i dont have to later i wanted to replace all important gaskets anyway so might as well have em done with em out also i said screw the green brackets of death ive taken em out on all my wrxs when i put in new injectors i really dont see a point for them just useless weight and makes things an inconvienence

metalmaker12

02-20-2013, 10:06 PM

On most cars that are running correctly with proper tune the avg gain across the powerband is about 8-15whp and torque. It does seem to improve throttle response and there is research that cfm intake flow is greatly improved. Its a good mod,but you need to tune it or stay in limp mode. On cable throttles it really seems to open up the low end response. The only thing is the car will run a bit rough until it warms up without the tgvs, but that too can be tuned with a bit. And yea I always take off those brackets, they are not really needed unless you have a use like to hide wires etc.15582

Mechie3

02-20-2013, 10:31 PM

I did TGV deletes. I noticed it idled a little rough when it was cold out (read, a bit lower than 32F, usually mid to low 20's). JDM cars don't have TGV's at all from the factory but the idle tables in the ECU are a little different than USDM. The term TGV is "Tumble Generator Valve". It's designed to improve cold start emissions. They do restrict flow even with stock turbos.

For the wires, I have non stock fuel rails so that helped, but I also turned the injectors around so that the clips faced inwards and rerouted the wires to come out from in between the manifold legs. Most people remove them because they can be difficult to remove on a stock WRX to get at injectors or other bits.

RM1SepEx

02-21-2013, 07:52 AM

so... if my other projects get to a point where I have time before delivery...
do a DIY TGV delete
Meatys DIY TGV Delete Guide http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1741045

I need to buy a cable and open source tune the car anyway so when tuning the car "tweak" the idle tables to smooth it out a bit.

If I'm behind, just run it as is and look at it as a longer term project

Mechie3

02-21-2013, 09:07 AM

That's pretty much it. I like to backfill both ends where the bolt goes with JB weld. I had a set that was tapped/bolted and after 2 years, surface rust formed and it would show signs of leaking when the intake tract was pressurized and sprayed with soapy water. JB weld back it up, but the screw still took the brunt of the mechanical load.

longislandwrx

02-21-2013, 09:08 AM

It's basically a free mod if you have the tools and time, so no reason to leave 12whp on the table. I have not experienced any cold start issues in cars that hav had it done, imho it's an emissions piece nothing more. Removing the center dividers takes a little longer, but worth it. It will also save you over a pound removing the butterflies, motors, vent tube, and the wiring back to the harness. and makes for a much cleaner look. Once you have your tuning cable just turn off codes as listed here... a little different than on the cobb but pretty simple

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31394427&postcount=13

If you dont feel like welding/plugging, you can get these or an equivalent product and not have to

http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-16/Weldless-TGV-Delete-Kit/Detail

metalmaker12

02-21-2013, 04:51 PM

Were such a helpful bunch on this forum, this is good, makes this car even better. If you don't have the deletes, you can do them now, or wait, it does not matter. The option is there.

Silvertop

02-21-2013, 04:54 PM

Were such a helpful bunch on this forum, this is good, makes this car even better. If you don't have the deletes, you can do them now, or wait, it does not matter. The option is there.

Is the TGV Delete a non-issue for those of us going NA?

Erik W. Treves

02-21-2013, 07:46 PM

ok..enough about TGV's....start your own thread...lol...

a little slow here...waiting on parts....so got to looking at the gauge pod....haven't touch that really....hmmm ...so in true East Coast Speed Machine fashion "everything gets touched"...

Before

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15591&d=1361493826

After

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15592&d=1361493828

I want to add something else and I have an idea but need t think about it some more.... anyway I think it looks better this way.

RM1SepEx

02-21-2013, 08:15 PM

very nice! are you going to reset to zero miles?

Erik W. Treves

02-21-2013, 08:24 PM

yeah, I am not sure i am too concerned about the miles on the gauge...we'll see...

veloce2

02-21-2013, 08:28 PM

Erik W. Treves

02-25-2013, 07:02 PM

Well, I was going to post this weekend, but, the "Erik Factor" poked its ugly head up and I have been in a crazy state trying to recover....

SO last Wed, I went to the Subi dealer for some nuts and bolts, and my new buddy mentioned to me if I had taken the oil pan off yet? I said no, and had no intention to take it off..but I figured I would ask "why?". He mentioned that the oil pickup tubes tend to crack where the tube attaches to the screen housing...well shoot....guess I would drop the pan this weekend (yesterday). Sure enough....yup cracked! Ok cool...cause he gave me a new one for free!

Go to put the bolts back in and strip both bolt holes...AWESOME !!! So I end up having to put heli coils in both holes....well...almost...enter the "Erik Factor"...I get the first Heli Coil in no problem....setup the second one to install, rotate the tool over...at this point I remember thinking....that thing could easily slide off the....CRAP....yup slid right off and rolled into the engine case!!! I spent the next 3 hours rotating, banging and bonking the engine trying to find the stupid Heli-coil. After 3 hours I decided it must have fallen out and missed it, so I sealed the engine back up and went inside....well I couldn't sleep all night = OCD'ing about the stupid Heli-coil. So I got a borescope with full intention today to find that stupid heli-coil. I get the oil pan bolts off, and get ready to pull the pan off for the 20th time...and for some reason I look under the transmission half way down the table....muther puss bucket....the STUPID HELICOIL...just sitting there laughing at me...red locktight still dripping off of it....as if saying "looking for me" ... did a quick inventory 10 in the box 2 in the engine....ah.....I can now continue.....

STUPID HELICOIL

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-25173119_zps571cb4db.jpg

Not bad for 70K+ miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6342_zpsb3811757.jpg

Cleaned

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6344_zpsd837ae72.jpg

And ready to go back together all STUPID HELICOILS accounted for.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-24141150_zps00863e54.jpg

metalmaker12

02-25-2013, 08:17 PM

This is sooooooo funny, ad you found it!!
I did something like this once, but it was a small 10mm bolt

Mechie3

02-25-2013, 08:35 PM

I once thought I lost the circlip on the front axle inside the trans. Took off the diff cover, put magnets in, etc. Turned out it popped out of it's groove and slid up the axle stub and hid under a seal. Never a good feeling when you think you lost things inside precision assemblies.

Erik W. Treves

02-26-2013, 08:16 PM

WOOT....Serious stuff going on here....brand new OEM heads..setup ready to run! Finally....they are pretty!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-26184710_zps951e0380.jpg

no cracks!!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-02-26184748_zpse2d87c49.jpg

Mechie3

02-26-2013, 09:56 PM

Shiny!

Erik W. Treves

03-02-2013, 07:28 PM

LOTS of progress today!!!

THe engine will be off the engine stand in the morning and connected to the tranny.

Got the heads installed, timing belt installed, timed, turbo installed, oil filter changed and header/up-pipe installed...also got my starter for my auto to 5-speed swap...really worked all day at it today...first full day in the garage all at once...but the results were worth it...imo.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-03-02084657_zpsb6b796e2.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-03-02093945_zps8d1a3922.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-03-02115046_zpse6f6520a.jpg

All timed up..

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-03-02115034_zpsdb7d1233.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6364_zps2dc27f9a.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6365_zps85d8ac12.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6363_zpscc92901a.jpg

metalmaker12

03-02-2013, 07:32 PM

Looking good Erik, like the Tomei timing guide

Erik W. Treves

03-02-2013, 07:36 PM

last ones

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-03-02135212_zps12bd6ea6.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/IMG_6353_zps91f5b6d0.jpg

stack

03-02-2013, 07:37 PM

great work

stack

Erik W. Treves

03-02-2013, 07:43 PM

thanks man.."everything gets touched" right :rolleyes:

Erik W. Treves

03-03-2013, 04:56 PM

Alright, well the donor is pretty much done...all clean and ready for the kit delivery....

light weight flywheel

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/2013-03-03104749_zpse672c53b.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6374_zps9646ddc4.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6373_zpsac49e2ed.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6370_zps54fae979.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/IMG_6367_zps759fd64e.jpg

metalmaker12

03-03-2013, 05:03 PM

Did u fab that plate and already and put the internal spline locking kit? Looks good bro, I am pretty much done too, were did you get the ffr stickers

NicksPapaw

03-03-2013, 05:19 PM

Holy Cow Erik. That looks SWEET!!!!!!

Samiam1017

03-05-2013, 01:29 PM

Looks great Eric. Did you assemble your heads? If so did you need specific valve spring compressor I've read over on Nasioc that its a special tool?

ehansen007

03-05-2013, 02:04 PM

Looking good E. You're way ahead of it.

Erik W. Treves

03-05-2013, 02:21 PM

after much research, I purchased the heads already setup...$1000 with cores shipped to the door. The deal breaker for me wasn't the "special tool", it's the shims...to setup a head by the time you are all done if you don't have a pool of shims to draw from you be in the +$300 range. I wanted a point and shoot solution using all OEM or better parts. Advance Auto Parts can also get you heads, and for about $250-$300 less, BUT, you will be speaking with a "representative" who coordinates the purchase of your heads...In my case, he calls Washington State to coordinate shipping the heads to Calif. where they meet up with the valves, springs and retainers, then they get shipped to Texas for machine work and assy, and then finally shipped to my local store or home. That process would take 2-3 weeks. If I want to inquire about status or what parts they are using I have to call the Advance Auto "rep" and he would have to inquire about my questions and get back to me. I would never be able to speak with the guy working on my heads. I did a test question to see the response time from Advance Auto "rep" and my first question to 6 hours to recieve an answer! The way I did it, I called the place I finally bought the heads from, spoke to them for 45 minutes, answered all my questions and concerns, ordered my heads which shipped 3 days later, and took 5 days to get to me via UPS from the west coast...and took me 1 hour to install in on my short block. Simple, clean, and bulletproof....done! Yes, a little more $$$$, but I think the results speak for themselves and I got what I paid for....

RM1SepEx

03-05-2013, 02:29 PM

Did u fab that plate and already and put the internal spline locking kit? Looks good bro, I am pretty much done too, were did you get the ffr stickers

looks like paper or lightweight cardboard to me... Mine is sitting there with the end cover on, bolts finger tight, waiting for the locking collar and cover etc that comes with the kit

Wayne Presley

03-05-2013, 02:45 PM

Did u fab that plate and already and put the internal spline locking kit? Looks good bro, I am pretty much done too, were did you get the ffr stickers

He fab'd up the plate out of 3M masking tape...:D

Mechie3

03-05-2013, 02:53 PM

Looks great Eric. Did you assemble your heads? If so did you need specific valve spring compressor I've read over on Nasioc that its a special tool?

I have one of these, got it off ebay. It's like a giant C-clamp more or less. Paid around $45 for it back in 2009.

http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/graphics/00000001/otc-4572.gif

after much research, I purchased the heads already setup

The only downside to that is you're supposed to check valve lash with the heads bolted down. I've done before/after measurements and seen as much as .002 change in lash after bolting the heads down. If you use a torque plate, it might solve that.

metalmaker12

03-05-2013, 05:46 PM

Yea, it was a a try at a joke, but Erik did not respond, that plate is killing lol. I think next he will fab up a mock kit out of PVC. I mean he has done everything else at this point lol. Looking good man

Bob_n_Cincy

03-05-2013, 08:05 PM

thanks man.."everything gets touched" right :rolleyes:

WOW Erik, It looks better than new. Will you "touch" my engine?

Erik W. Treves

03-05-2013, 11:48 PM

WOW Erik, It looks better than new. Will you "touch" my engine?

thanks, that's what I was going for....everything gets touched was the theme we used during our Car Warriors build...all those small details add up. I don't think I have known you long enough to "touch" your engine though :p

as far as the "rear plate" I fabbed up...yup I sure did and I can provide the kit to the forum...we can work out a price...this is what the kit for the rear plate looks like...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15893&d=1362545351