Ask "The Subie Guys"

[AJW Performance]

Hello everyone,
I wanted to make a thread that could provide assistance to any questions you may have in regards to your WRX donor. This is here to help YOU and does not pertain to our products or donor kits, but more as a support for the community. Question about a power goal and supporting modifications? or simply some maintenance advice; just ask "The Subie Guys" (as Dave Smith calls us).
I will also use this thread to post our weekly blogs for those who care to read them!

When you post with a question add in:
Donor Year/ Miles/ Current Mods

Hope this helps some people out!

Thanks,
Andrew

[David Hodgkins]

Andrew, thanks for opening this thread! i don't have a question right now but I'm sure I'll have some soon!

:)

[AJW Performance]

David, no problem. Should have done this months ago, but better late than never:)

[AZPete]

As David said x 2.
Looking forward to getting my crate . . . whenever.
Pete

[AJW Performance]

As David said x 2.
Looking forward to getting my crate . . . whenever.
Pete

Thanks Pete,
Yes by the end of next week we will have 4 out the door in total thus far

[timmy318]

Hey. What happened? The UPS center said something about you guys shipping something wrong???? Not sure what the deal is?

[AJW Performance]

Hey Timmy.

Have a PM coming your way right now, your donor will arrive next Thurs/Fri (shoot us a PM or post on the donor thread).

Thanks,
Tim

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks Andrew! This Subie stuff is a whole new world to me.

Jeff

[AJW Performance]

No problem Jeff!

[Tim@ajwperformance]

Tim here from AJW Performance/818Donors. Just wanted to introduce myself and let you all know Im here!

Any questions just let me know!
Tim@ajwperformanceproducts.com

[wallace18]

While it is a way off still for me, I have a tuning question for AJW. I want to use your tuning expertise to tune my 818. What kind of port will I need for a laptop to do the tune and can I buy the needed cables from you? USB or Com1? Also can I start the engine with the stock ECU even though I bought and installed many HIPO parts from you? I want to have all my ducks in a row come 8/3/13. Thanks. T.W.

[AJW Performance]

Tom,
A very well respected solution would be going with Tactrix- http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=6&Itemid=53
As for the program- http://www.romraider.com/

You can start it on the OEM mapping, it will be safe.

[philly15]

^+1 for tactrix thats all i ever used once i got away from cobb accessports

[JeromeS13]

I'm a huge fan of the Cobb Accessport. The ability to change certain values in real time without having to turn off the car, make changes, flash, cycle switch, start, etc. saves you a LOT of time. Plus the ability to switch realtime maps in a near instant is awesome, too, especially if you switch between 91/93, e85, race fuel, etc.

[philly15]

the only reason i switched from an accessport is i first didnt like the cobb OTS maps, they arent exactly vehicle specific every car reacts differently and i have a separate laptop for my car so its very easy to swap maps hooked up the reflash connectors on a push button from like radio shack so its literally turn key push button flash map turn key off real simple

[AZPete]

Subie Guys, I'm from far away V8-ville so please excuse me if these two questions are stupid:
1. Is A/C possible in the 818?
I assume that frame mods and perhaps a custom fuel tank will be needed to make space for A/C, but possible? Oh, I also assume there will be a soft top available, as Dave said, and that it will again get blazing hot here in the AZ desert though today is perfect.
2. Will ABS be possible in the 818?
Since the Subarus have ABS is there any reason I won't be able to make the donor ABS work in the 818? In my FFR roadster I adapted the donor ABS and it worked great.
Pete

[rjh2pd]

I'm sure that you will be able to make it work. For the gtm IIRC you got ac lines to run from the compressor to the condensor. I dont think you will need a custom fuel tank, you should be able to run them under the tank in between the frame rails. I dont think that ABS will be included and i would think you would need to do extensive work to the hubs to have the sensor and the toothed ring to work. On the bright side the car is so light that you'll be able to stop much faster so the need is a lot less for ABS.

[philly15]

iirc there was talk of AC being one of the optional add ons for the 818 but not too sure on that but im sure there is a plan for it, also i plan on trying to make the ABS work from the donor probably wont spend too much time on it if it requires too much special fabrication i might just scrap the idea

[AJW Performance]

Some of our donor customers plan on making a customized system to run A/C. I am sure as everyone moves forward a standardized method will develop based on feedback from builders and customers alike. When we build ours we plan on putting A/C in as well :)

[AJW Performance]

Starting to post our weekly blogs, so here is last weeks:

March 8 2013:
http://818donors.com/general/2002-2005-wrx-vs-the-2006-2007-wrx/

March 22 2013:
http://818donors.com/general/looking-for-that-extra-piece-to-complete-your-818-kit/

[BrandonDrums]

Starting to post our weekly blogs, so here is last weeks:

March 8 2013:
http://818donors.com/general/2002-2005-wrx-vs-the-2006-2007-wrx/

March 22 2013:
http://818donors.com/general/looking-for-that-extra-piece-to-complete-your-818-kit/

That write-up from March 8th is probably the best overall look at the 02-05 vs. 06-07 WRX platforms on this forum folks. Read it!

On a side note, I never knew the turbo 2.5L engines had much head-gasket issues because of the MLS gaskets the turbo models use. I thought it was just the SOHC N/A 2.5L's due to the crappy gaskets those use. Interesting to learn that.

I guess most people's turbo 2.5L engines have a piston failure before the gaskets go haha.

Also, as an avid Ebay shopper I will say there are certain parts you can get away with from generic eBay vendors and many parts you absolutely would be killing your engine with. Why risk it though? If you're the type that's going to buy a pre-crated and inspected donor pallet you absolutely should buy only the parts AJW recommends. You can't argue with someone who's gotten 180,000 miles out of a modded WRX with a stock engine and tranny.

[shinn497]

Hey I get the feeling that I keep asking this. But is it possible to use an ej207 with an impreza donor. Assume the engine comes with an ecu harness, intercooler, exhaust/intake manifold, and turbo.

[twizzler]

Question since the rest of the internet has failed me, you guys know the proper belt size on a 2006 EJ255 to run JUST from the crank to Alternator for deleting the power steering and AC?

[Xusia]

Question since the rest of the internet has failed me, you guys know the proper belt size on a 2006 EJ255 to run JUST from the crank to Alternator for deleting the power steering and AC?

I believe RM1SepEX posted the exact belt size in one of his threads. That might help with the search function (which we know is difficult to use!).

[RM1SepEx]

working on the donor thread... post 259

Found a 27.25 long 5 rib belt, just ordered from Summit racing, cost less than $20, I hope it fits... It should be in the range of adjustment, I wrapped a rope around my harmonic balancer and alternator when it's at the bottom and got about 26.5 inches...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodyear-Bel...&forceRpt=true

Goodyear Belt Gatorback Poly-V Serpentine 5-Rib 27.25 in. Length Each 4050272

[Tim@ajwperformance]

Hey I get the feeling that I keep asking this. But is it possible to use an ej207 with an impreza donor. Assume the engine comes with an ecu harness, intercooler, exhaust/intake manifold, and turbo.

As long as you have the ECU and harness, I don't think this will be an issue.


Question since the rest of the internet has failed me, you guys know the proper belt size on a 2006 EJ255 to run JUST from the crank to Alternator for deleting the power steering and AC?

Yessir! http://ajwperformanceproducts.com/store/#!/~/product/id=4878871 We use gates racing belts for these when replacing them.

[metalmaker12]

Shinn497, If you use a jdm ej207 v7,v8,or v9 and jdm ecu, get a usdm 02-05 dash, engine bay harness and wrx ecu also. Keep the engine harness from the jdm motor. The 02 -05 harness works well and all that has to be changed is the use of the tgv wires to run the avcs. The reason I say get a 02-05 wrx ecu is that if you do need to pass US emissions you can flash that ecu to run the engine minus avcs and it will pass the emission testing, the jdm ecu most likely will not be reconized. Once you do pass the emissions, you can put the jdm ecu in and run the avcs and all is good. Also on the EJ207 there is a soleniod straight below the throttle body that you have to remove, cap off with a bolt and obviously make air tight. The usdm harness do not have this pinned in so it will keep throughing codes if you do not. You can sell this soleniod for like 100 bucks.

I am running an ej207, and if you have any questions, pm me, I would be glad to help. JDM racing motors sell good engines and they are good to work with. They are highly recommend on Nasico

Ps: the twin scroll turbo is different flange than the usdm wrx/sti models so you will need to fab a custom exhaust

[Desertrunner]

Andrew,
Have you guys ever had any isses with cooling on Subaru engines, also what would the maxium revs you guys have run a Subaru engine at for any consistant time?
Tony

[AZPete]

I'm planning an overhead lift in my garage. How much does a complete EJ255 weigh? And what's the weight of a 5MT? Thanks.
I'm an old-school V8 guy studying lots of Subie stuff but haven't seen the weights. Thanks.
Pete

[twizzler]

As long as you have the ECU and harness, I don't think this will be an issue.

Yessir! http://ajwperformanceproducts.com/store/#!/~/product/id=4878871 We use gates racing belts for these when replacing them.

I've seen that belt but its to cover powersteering, alternator, crank. There is going to be allot of slack without the power steering pump.

[metalmaker12]

450lbs---470lbs, depends on 02-05 or 06-07 wrx, but bacially 500lbs

[John Phillips]

Man I love this thread, although I haven't been able to read EVERYTHING it links to...yet. Thanks for the straight info guys. A lot of us V8-types are trying hard to learn us some Subie, to be ready for the 818 build. Really helps to have concise info in one thread to work from.

[RM1SepEx]

Like most forums you will find great info throughout the threads. The members have been extremely helpful to an old NA iron head like me too...

[AJW Performance]

John glad we can help, any questions let us know!

[AJW Performance]

Still here folks!

[gwarden]

What's your take on reusing stock head bolts over changing to ARP studs

[Goldwing]

Hi guys. I did some searching today to identify all the open engine hoses but couldn't answer this question. I'm using the charcoal canister from the wrx. I understand the tank vent line as well as the purge line to connect to the third line by the 2 fuel lines (to burn the vapors presumably?). The third port coming from the canister is marked drain. Where do I route this line? Just get a u-hose and point it down? Or does this go somewhere? Thanks!

'07 donor WRX

Rich

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi guys. I did some searching today to identify all the open engine hoses but couldn't answer this question. I'm using the charcoal canister from the wrx. I understand the tank vent line as well as the purge line to connect to the third line by the 2 fuel lines (to burn the vapors presumably?). The third port coming from the canister is marked drain. Where do I route this line? Just get a u-hose and point it down? Or does this go somewhere? Thanks!

'07 donor WRX

Rich

Rich
Does this picture help you out?
Bob
27515

[AJW Performance]

Go with ARP! Worth the cost vs potential failure!

[Goldwing]

Bob, yes and no, lol. Creates more questions while answering a few. I'm missing some valves. I think many are just skipping the canister altogether. I really just want to control the fumes in my attached garage, so I don't need to recreate the whole system. Can't leave a roadster outside, don't want fumes inside, so the canister gets used. Can either of you suggest a simplified routing? I'll ask here, then later start a thread on the topic to share. Thanks for the input.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, yes and no, lol. Creates more questions while answering a few. I'm missing some valves. I think many are just skipping the canister altogether. I really just want to control the fumes in my attached garage, so I don't need to recreate the whole system. Can't leave a roadster outside, don't want fumes inside, so the canister gets used. Can either of you suggest a simplified routing? I'll ask here, then later start a thread on the topic to share. Thanks for the input.

Hi Rich,
No help from me on this. I figure a very high percentage of 818 as well as other FFR cars are garage kept.
I haven't heard of anybody except you using the canister.
Remember they had attached garages long before they had charcoal canister (early 70s)
Times have changed, back then cigarette smoke never bothered anyone either.
Bob

[Quiny]

According to the regs in Massachusetts not only are we supposed to have it we are supposed to show a reciept for a new replacement, O2 sensor and cat. Not sure yet if my will be functional or "decoritive".

[Jaime]

Can one of "The Subie Guys" tell me if this is good enough for differential alignment? This is my Quaife Torsen LSD install.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_195649_zpsi3ht4grw.jpg

[Harley818]

AJW, what happened to your hosted site for your weekly updates.
I click on the link and it says its gone.......

[gwarden]

I've come to the conclusion that I may have left the timing belt guides attached to my broken rear timing covers and threw them out.
I've read they were just to prevent the belt from slipping while shipping the car from overseas or from slipping if pushing the car in reverse.
How important are these guides, and does anyone know a part number for them?

[indiana818]

what type of oil is best for a 2.5 n/a engine? also tranny speed oil?

[AJW Performance]

Good Morning everyone, our tech "Kyle@AJW" is going to be taking over the questions in this thread. He will do his best to check daily, if you need assistance with something fast though please do not hesitate to call us at 603-715-9076. Hours are 9-5 weekly.

[Kyle@AJW]

I've come to the conclusion that I may have left the timing belt guides attached to my broken rear timing covers and threw them out.
I've read they were just to prevent the belt from slipping while shipping the car from overseas or from slipping if pushing the car in reverse.
How important are these guides, and does anyone know a part number for them?

These guides are only on models with manual transmissions. I have seen wrx's without them and not skip timing but I have also seen them adjusted to loss and jump timing. In my opinion I would use them just to be safe. I don't have the part number for the guide but the part number for the guide bolt is 800406050.


what type of oil is best for a 2.5 n/a engine? also tranny speed oil?

Best oil for a 2.5 n/a would be a full synthetic 5w30 or 5w40 for average driving. For the transmission would be 75w90 extra s.

[Evan78]

Hi Rich,
No help from me on this. I figure a very high percentage of 818 as well as other FFR cars are garage kept.
I haven't heard of anybody except you using the canister.
Remember they had attached garages long before they had charcoal canister (early 70s)
Times have changed, back then cigarette smoke never bothered anyone either.
BobI don't have any links handy, but I've seen threads on people making their own canisters after smelling gas in the garage. If I remember correctly, PVC pipe and sprinkler heads were popular containers for activated charcoal. I might have seen it on "the other" forum.

Edit: See Jeff Kleiner's solution in post 8 of this thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10144-Fuel-Tank-Vent&highlight=charcoal).

[AZPete]

Subie Guys: code P2122, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit Low Input (2006 WRX sedan)
I think this means the DBW accelerator pedal, right? All 6 wires to pedal have continuity. I think there is a way to check the resistance of the DBW pedal but I can't find the values in the FSM, 06 WRX wiring diagrams, or NASIOC. Can you tell me the diagnostic values or where to find them?

[Kyle@AJW]

did the pedal and throttle body come from the same car?

[AZPete]

I guess I'm not sure because the pedal and throttle body both came from AJW. Perhaps you can look up the 818Donor crate I bought and tell me. I hadn't thought of that possibility.

[DMC7492]

1-Can you give us a little information on turbo inlets. lets say i'm running a Blouch TD05-18 XT not ball bearing. What are the options availble and will it accompany enough fittings for the air/oil separator?
2-can you shed some light on the necessary inter cooler sizing to for supporting this turbo

[Kyle@AJW]

I guess I'm not sure because the pedal and throttle body both came from AJW. Perhaps you can look up the 818Donor crate I bought and tell me. I hadn't thought of that possibility.

I double checked your donor and there was no parts swapped out it was a running driving car before it was torn down. Next step I would double check over the wires going to the throttle body if you already checked the pedal.

[Kyle@AJW]

1-Can you give us a little information on turbo inlets. lets say i'm running a Blouch TD05-18 XT not ball bearing. What are the options availble and will it accompany enough fittings for the air/oil separator?
2-can you shed some light on the necessary inter cooler sizing to for supporting this turbo

Did you get your turbo with a stock size inlet or the 3"?

Depending on the air/oil separator and how it is set up you you should not need any extra fittings on the inlet.

A 19x8x4 bar and plate core size would be about to support a 18g to about 24 psi / 350-450 whp range.

[AZPete]

Kyle perhaps I was not clear in post #50, but what I am asking is, 1) does Code P2122 mean the accelerator pedal? and, 2) how can I check the pedal? I'll try to be more specific.

1. I'm getting Code P2122, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit Low Input
There are other codes for throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit and sensor/switch "E" circuit so I'm trying to find out if the sensor/switch "D" is part of the DBW accelerator pedal, also called the pedal travel sensor. To be clear, I am getting a code for "D" as above and not getting codes for "A" or "E" but there must be a reason for differentiating between these parts of the DBW system. I've spent hours searching the factory service manual and several online forums but I cannot find which part of the system is called sensor/switch "D". Hence, my question: does this code P2122 refer to the accelerator pedal?

2. If the code 2122 refers to the accelerator pedal, also called the pedal travel sensor, how can I check it? On NASIOC and Scoobymods I have seen threads about similar problems that advised that the accelerator pedal should be checked with resistance values in the factory service manual. I cannot find anything in the factory service manual about checking the accelerator pedal so I am asking the "Subie Guys": How can I check the DBW accelerator pedal to verify it is working correctly or not?

[DMC7492]

[QUOTE][/
Originally Posted by DMC7492
1-Can you give us a little information on turbo inlets. lets say i'm running a Blouch TD05-18 XT not ball bearing. What are the options availble and will it accompany enough fittings for the air/oil separator?
2-can you shed some light on the necessary inter cooler sizing to for supporting this turbo
Did you get your turbo with a stock size inlet or the 3"?

Depending on the air/oil separator and how it is set up you you should not need any extra fittings on the inlet.

A 19x8x4 bar and plate core size would be about to support a 18g to about 24 psi / 350-450 whp range.

The turbo inlet is 2.33" O.D

[Kyle@AJW]

30806
Kyle perhaps I was not clear in post #50, but what I am asking is, 1) does Code P2122 mean the accelerator pedal? and, 2) how can I check the pedal? I'll try to be more specific.

1. I'm getting Code P2122, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit Low Input
There are other codes for throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit and sensor/switch "E" circuit so I'm trying to find out if the sensor/switch "D" is part of the DBW accelerator pedal, also called the pedal travel sensor. To be clear, I am getting a code for "D" as above and not getting codes for "A" or "E" but there must be a reason for differentiating between these parts of the DBW system. I've spent hours searching the factory service manual and several online forums but I cannot find which part of the system is called sensor/switch "D". Hence, my question: does this code P2122 refer to the accelerator pedal?

2. If the code 2122 refers to the accelerator pedal, also called the pedal travel sensor, how can I check it? On NASIOC and Scoobymods I have seen threads about similar problems that advised that the accelerator pedal should be checked with resistance values in the factory service manual. I cannot find anything in the factory service manual about checking the accelerator pedal so I am asking the "Subie Guys": How can I check the DBW accelerator pedal to verify it is working correctly or not?

I have not had worked with 2122 code before. I don't know if you where able to fine anything else from your 1st post but here is the factory service for that code. 30806

[Kyle@AJW]

30807

[JeromeS13]

Kyle perhaps I was not clear in post #50, but what I am asking is, 1) does Code P2122 mean the accelerator pedal? and, 2) how can I check the pedal? I'll try to be more specific.

1. I'm getting Code P2122, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit Low Input
There are other codes for throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "A" circuit and sensor/switch "E" circuit so I'm trying to find out if the sensor/switch "D" is part of the DBW accelerator pedal, also called the pedal travel sensor. To be clear, I am getting a code for "D" as above and not getting codes for "A" or "E" but there must be a reason for differentiating between these parts of the DBW system. I've spent hours searching the factory service manual and several online forums but I cannot find which part of the system is called sensor/switch "D". Hence, my question: does this code P2122 refer to the accelerator pedal?

2. If the code 2122 refers to the accelerator pedal, also called the pedal travel sensor, how can I check it? On NASIOC and Scoobymods I have seen threads about similar problems that advised that the accelerator pedal should be checked with resistance values in the factory service manual. I cannot find anything in the factory service manual about checking the accelerator pedal so I am asking the "Subie Guys": How can I check the DBW accelerator pedal to verify it is working correctly or not?

Pete,

Check page EN (H4DOTC)(diag)-362 for the troubleshooting tree. It has the values that you're looking for. If you don't have the EN (H4DOTC) section, let me know and I'll email it to you.

[Evan78]

The complete 2006 manual (and others) is also available here:

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals

[AZPete]

Jerome, THANKS! With the info you sent I found the diagnostic procedures in the FSM I have. Thanks!

Kyle@AJW, thanks for trying. Look at the reference Jerome listed so next time you'll know where to look.

Evan78, thanks for the link to manuals but I already have them. It took Jerome to point me to the right pages.

Now, to the garage to work my way through the diagnostic maze.

[Kyle@AJW]

[QUOTE=DMC7492;159886][QUOTE][/
Originally Posted by DMC7492
1-Can you give us a little information on turbo inlets. lets say i'm running a Blouch TD05-18 XT not ball bearing. What are the options availble and will it accompany enough fittings for the air/oil separator?
2-can you shed some light on the necessary inter cooler sizing to for supporting this turbo
Did you get your turbo with a stock size inlet or the 3"?

Depending on the air/oil separator and how it is set up you you should not need any extra fittings on the inlet.

A 19x8x4 bar and plate core size would be about to support a 18g to about 24 psi / 350-450 whp range.

The turbo inlet is 2.33" O.D[/QUOTE

1st choice is Perrin inlet it is a vary nice fitting inlet and include all hardware for installation. Next one would be the samco one. Other option would be for a AMR or Agency Power hard inlets but the require the removal of the intake manifold and requires so modification of hoses to work and fit proper.

[AJW Performance]

Anyone have any questions? Kyle is here to help!

[CanadianYank]

Anyone have any questions? Kyle is here to help!

Very early in the process just getting all of the parts together. I've bought a 2002 Impreza wagon donor and a JDM 00 EJ205 and some other misl parts...

33896

Question, I also bought a 2005 WRX / Saab ECU from an automatic with pigtail. I've researched online but from what I can tell its not physically different from the 2005 MT5 version just different firmware. Can I use ECUflash and over write the auto with MT5 base A4TF800F (AJ890 8851)?

Frank

[Kyle@AJW]

Very early in the process just getting all of the parts together. I've bought a 2002 Impreza wagon donor and a JDM 00 EJ205 and some other misl parts...

33896

Question, I also bought a 2005 WRX / Saab ECU from an automatic with pigtail. I've researched online but from what I can tell its not physically different from the 2005 MT5 version just different firmware. Can I use ECUflash and over write the auto with MT5 base A4TF800F (AJ890 8851)?

Frank

You can use that ECU and flash it with a map for a 02 wrx with manuel trans. The 05 map is going to look for a few sensors that are not on the 02/03.

Kyle

[CanadianYank]

You can use that ECU and flash it with a map for a 02 wrx with manuel trans. The 05 map is going to look for a few sensors that are not on the 02/03.

Kyle

Thx Kyle, another question is the EJ205 from Japan has the TD04 no AVCS or TGV's and has the on manifold ign coils from what I understand It will work with the ECU just need to swap the right cam gear and crank trigger wheels?

33898338993390033901339023390333904

Anything else you would recommend replace/remove or add? I plan on getting a price from y'all on a service kit real soon...

Frank

[Kyle@AJW]

Thx Kyle, another question is the EJ205 from Japan has the TD04 no AVCS or TGV's and has the on manifold ign coils from what I understand It will work with the ECU just need to swap the right cam gear and crank trigger wheels?

33898338993390033901339023390333904

Anything else you would recommend replace/remove or add? I plan on getting a price from y'all on a service kit real soon...

Frank

On that motor best way to go about is to use it as a long block and swap all the 02 wrx bolt on parts on to it. This way it will be plug and play with your current wire harness.

You are correct you do have to swap to the newer style crank trigger wheel and cam gear.

I would do a full timing belt kit with water pump and thermostat. I would also replace/upgrade the oil pump. Then spark plugs, front and rear main seals, cam seals.

Not needed but would recommend doing a oil baffle, pick up, and sti oil pan and turbo inlet.

Kyle

[CanadianYank]

On that motor best way to go about is to use it as a long block and swap all the 02 wrx bolt on parts on to it. This way it will be plug and play with your current wire harness.

You are correct you do have to swap to the newer style crank trigger wheel and cam gear.

I would do a full timing belt kit with water pump and thermostat. I would also replace/upgrade the oil pump. Then spark plugs, front and rear main seals, cam seals.

Not needed but would recommend doing a oil baffle, pick up, and sti oil pan and turbo inlet.

Kyle

The donor is an NA 2.5l MT5 so I dont have any top end parts. Are you saying there is no way to use the parts on the JDM? I like the fact there are no TGV's...

Frank

[Kyle@AJW]

The donor is an NA 2.5l MT5 so I dont have any top end parts. Are you saying there is no way to use the parts on the JDM? I like the fact there are no TGV's...

Frank

There will be no easy way to get all working correctly with that combination. I would reach out to Iwire and see what he recommends because you will need that ecu merged into your wiring or create a new harness.

[CanadianYank]

There will be no easy way to get all working correctly with that combination. I would reach out to Iwire and see what he recommends because you will need that ecu merged into your wiring or create a new harness.

Wiring is what I do so no worries there just new to Subaru's and want to make sure the ECU / firmware will work. So to be sure the 02-05 ECU's are the same just software changes?

So from what your telling me I need to:

1. Change Cam and Crank trigger wheels from JDM style to 2002 WRX.

2. Use the 2005 ECU and flash the 2002 WRX HEX file but which one?
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUVersionCompatibilityList#toc2

3. Custom wire everything to the correct year pinout of programed ECU (2002 pinout for 2002 program) and delete inactive cels not used on JDM engine.

Correct?

Frank

[Kyle@AJW]

yes all the 02-05 ecu's are the same just with different programs.

yes change over the crank and cam triggers to the 02+ for that ecu. BTW the crank trigger out of your N/A will work.

You will need the corresponding engine components to work with that ecu. Most of the JDM components will not work with your ecu.

As to what flash you would use would depend on witch engine year wrx you would source them parts from.

Another option to look in to might be to go with a stand alone ecu.

[CanadianYank]

yes all the 02-05 ecu's are the same just with different programs.

yes change over the crank and cam triggers to the 02+ for that ecu. BTW the crank trigger out of your N/A will work.

You will need the corresponding engine components to work with that ecu. Most of the JDM components will not work with your ecu.

As to what flash you would use would depend on witch engine year wrx you would source them parts from.

Another option to look in to might be to go with a stand alone ecu.

I have a Megasquirt II V3.57 that was intended for the build but after reading how good the Subaru ecus were I had second thoughts and bought the 2005 WRX ECU. Stay with the OEM or go Megasquirt?

Frank

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Kyle,
Thought I would jump in on this conversation.
My Engine is a 04 FXT out of an automatic.22611AH700 I put a manual trans in it.
I have it started with the engine but get serial comm errors because no TCM.

I also bought an ebay ECU for a FXT 05 manual. 22611AJ570

Can I switch to the o5 ECU, or does that need the immobilizer stuff?

How would you solve this?
I also have no issue rewiring, this is my ECU.

33905

[Kyle@AJW]

I have a Megasquirt II V3.57 that was intended for the build but after reading how good the Subaru ecus were I had second thoughts and bought the 2005 WRX ECU. Stay with the OEM or go Megasquirt?

Frank

If you already have A Megasquirt and the combination of parts you have I would use that over OEM.

[CanadianYank]

Hi Kyle,
Thought I would jump in on this conversation.
My Engine is a 04 FXT out of an automatic.22611AH700 I put a manual trans in it.
I have it started with the engine but get serial comm errors because no TCM.

I also bought an ebay ECU for a FXT 05 manual. 22611AJ570

Can I switch to the o5 ECU, or does that need the immobilizer stuff?

How would you solve this?
I also have no issue rewiring, this is my ECU.

33905

Hey Bob, I'm hoping he tells you to re flash with a manual map, at least that's what I'm getting out of this... Love seeing that ECU picture of yours great job!

Frank

[CanadianYank]

If you already have A Megasquirt and the combination of parts you have I would use that over OEM.

Fair enough Kyle thank you...

Frank

[Kyle@AJW]

Hi Kyle,
Thought I would jump in on this conversation.
My Engine is a 04 FXT out of an automatic.22611AH700 I put a manual trans in it.
I have it started with the engine but get serial comm errors because no TCM.

I also bought an ebay ECU for a FXT 05 manual. 22611AJ570

Can I switch to the o5 ECU, or does that need the immobilizer stuff?

How would you solve this?
I also have no issue rewiring, this is my ECU.

33905
The 04 Forester XT did not come with a immobilizer but the 05 XT did. So to use that ECU you would need the ECU, Immobilizer Unit, Key set along with the pick up sensor with the wiring.

There you would be 2 ways you could solve this re-flash the current ecu with a MT map and wire in your trans sensors and I thing you have to ground one pin. The other option would be to get a MT ecu from a 04 xt or a 04 STI.

That is a vary clean set up. Nice job.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The 04 Forester XT did not come with a immobilizer but the 05 XT did. So to use that ECU you would need the ECU, Immobilizer Unit, Key set along with the pick up sensor with the wiring.

There you would be 2 ways you could solve this re-flash the current ecu with a MT map and wire in your trans sensors and I thing you have to ground one pin. The other option would be to get a MT ecu from a 04 xt or a 04 STI.

That is a vary clean set up. Nice job.

Thanks Klye'
Can you reflash the 05 FXT ECU to 04ftx and get rid of the immobilizer issue?

Sean on this forum is having immobilizer issues.
Maybe this will help him out.
Please read http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15755-Security-Keyless-and-Immobilizer-Modules
Bob

[Kyle@AJW]

Thanks Klye'
Can you reflash the 05 FXT ECU to 04ftx and get rid of the immobilizer issue?

Sean on this forum is having immobilizer issues.
Maybe this will help him out.
Please read http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15755-Security-Keyless-and-Immobilizer-Modules
Bob

As far as I know there is no way to flash that out. It is built into the hardware some how.

[CanadianYank]

Hello Kyle, do you guys offer a 36-1 tooth crank trigger?

Frank

[Kyle@AJW]

Hello Kyle, do you guys offer a 36-1 tooth crank trigger?

Frank

Unfortunately we do not offer a Subaru 36-1 crank trigger. Most of the set ups that I have seen been custom made and attached to the crank pulley.

This might be something worth while looking on to if you have someone that can laser cut out the trigger wheels for you.

33960

[CanadianYank]

Unfortunately we do not offer a Subaru 36-1 crank trigger. Most of the set ups that I have seen been custom made and attached to the crank pulley.

This might be something worth while looking on to if you have someone that can laser cut out the trigger wheels for you.

33960

Hey Kyle,

Yes I saw that while searching last night. So from what I understand he machined the teeth off of the gear making a shoulder so he could slide the trigger on, align an spot weld in place? I have a call into Matt from Diyautotune to see if he has any options as well. Seems like some company should make one of these for sale...

Thank you
Frank

[VMO/MMO]

Hi,
I am new to Subarus. I am trying to find out a bit about the differences by years and models. Early in this thread there is a link to this type of information but the link is dead now.
I am in Hong Kong so some of the cars may be a bit different. So far it seems the 2.0 turbo engines are basically the same but I can't find any detailed info yet. Can I use engines and transmissions from earlier WRXs, say 99? Are there any advantages or disadvantages to different year models? I see the kit is specific to certain year models of donor cars, is this just suspension differences or wiring or are the engines and or transmissions different enough for the kits to change? What will work vs what will not work from an STi? Many of the potential donors I am finding are STis. The late cars have a 2.5 liter engine, does it physically interchange with the 2.0? I am looking at two different wagons, one may be an STi (it has that painted on the inter cooler) but is an automatic, the other does not say STi and is a stick. I can also go to Japan and buy everything as parts. For now I want to buy one of these wagons to use as a car for a year or so.
Sorry to be such a newbie but I can't seem to find Subaru for dummies yet :-)