5.0 302 efi best horsepower and general hop up advice.

[stoker]

I am looking to add some power. My setup is a 1994 5.0 GT motor that I overhauled when I built the car. The only changes from bone stock are a Ford Motorsport X cam and I changed the car over to 1993 injection, ecm, harness etc to cure idle problems that I think were caused by the cam.
In the beginning I thought the car was really fast. 5000 miles later I am used to the car and I would love more.
What advice could you guys throw my way. I am really cheap and would like to keep this low buck.
I am thinking aftermarket aluminum heads. I am worried about piston clearance with the X cam.

Thanks.

[Lex]

If the valves arent hitting now with the X cam they wont. Problem is with EFI you cant be cheap. You can do a bigger throttle body but then you probably will need bigger injectors etc. etc. One mod just leads to another to make it run right.

[stoker]

Lex,

I hear you on the efi nickel and diming. My gut tells me all those efi items don't add much power but are costly. I understand that one will surely need them to do it right. The valve clearance worry is based on the idea that aftermarket heads might have bigger valves and differing valve angles. I remember I was nervous about hitting the valves and to lazy to check it.

[astglenn]

By far and away, the best bang for the buck is a centrifugal blower. Forte's has had some smoking deals lately. They are kicking around used here and there for very reasonable prices. Generally speaking, if you keep the pulleys in the 5-7 PSI range, you can just go for it, with the kit components. Heads, cams, injectors, pumps, rails, ignition boxes......They add up fast.

Shove 7 pounds of air down its pie hole, and it will come very alive.

[Lex]

Lex,

I hear you on the efi nickel and diming. My gut tells me all those efi items don't add much power but are costly. I understand that one will surely need them to do it right. The valve clearance worry is based on the idea that aftermarket heads might have bigger valves and differing valve angles. I remember I was nervous about hitting the valves and to lazy to check it.

Just go with Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads. They're good for 2.02 valves and .550 lift without hitting.

[Ophitoxaemia]

I did AFR 165 heads and 1.7 RR with the stock cam on my 1991 5.0

I kept the stock cam for preserving low end torque for autocross. It lost a little at the very bottom but pulls more than a gear harder now- especially 4K and up. Mustangs with this setup dyno around 300 at the wheels.

That was, wow, 9 years ago so maybe the new design heads do more.

[cmsu]

I agree with astglenn, you can get brand new Vortech Superchargers 5-6 psi for $1,900.00 and the 8-10 psi for $3,000.00 ish, the only inexpensive idea that I can think about is rear gears (you didn't say what you are currently running) FFR swears by 3.55, others say 3.73 others will tell you 4.11 either way it will wake the car up.

[cobramd]

You just can't beat the bang for the buck with boost. I really prefer the centrifugal blowers that really add power once your well hooked and pointed in a reasonably safe direction. Gears are fun but definately wouldn't go over 3.55's . I think there is a guy with a used powerdyne for short money in the classified section. Before my boost addiction got out of hand I ran a powerdyne for 3 yrs (was turning 349rwhp 368 tq) then sold it to another forum member who has beaten on it for another 4 before needing to replace the first belt. All in all a great starter blower with far more dependability than they get credit for.

[astglenn]

You just can't beat the bang for the buck with boost. I really prefer the centrifugal blowers that really add power once your well hooked and pointed in a reasonably safe direction. Gears are fun but definately wouldn't go over 3.55's . I think there is a guy with a used powerdyne for short money in the classified section. Before my boost addiction got out of hand I ran a powerdyne for 3 yrs (was turning 349rwhp 368 tq) then sold it to another forum member who has beaten on it for another 4 before needing to replace the first belt. All in all a great starter blower with far more dependability than they get credit for.

These cars really need more than 300 HP like a fish needs a bicycle. BUT...that said. The Vortech, basic kit makes way more than that. Way way more.

I have a well built, hi revving 306, naturally aspirated. TW 202 heads, a great cam (TFS stage 2) Good ignition and a very well done balance and blue-print. A touch of head work was done and it is a well put together combination. It made 375 /370. I believe that a stock junker, with 100K will make 425/450 standing on its head at 8 psi, with a little bit of fuel management work. hard to beat the power per dollar. Fancy...not so much. Push the loud peddle and leave 300' of rubber, through three gears, yup.

[Bobasaurus]

You need a Vortech. Either the 6psi or 11 psi versions. Instant horsepower adder. I love mine. I have the 6psi version with a larger crank pulley, which Vortech sent me in my kit for some reason, and I'm making about 9.5 psi.

Bobby

[tjo]

For another opinion, I like NA engines. I know force feeding is great, but I tend to stay away from it. You can get a good set of heads, new or used, for not too much money, they will work well with your cam, and you won't have to upgrade your mass air meter and injectors at the same time. On the other hand, the power potential is not quite the same, but you will have substantiallyh more than you have now.

Tim

[AC Bill]

I am looking to add some power. I am really cheap and would like to keep this low buck.
Thanks.

Is there any advantage in going with the Explorer heads and intake, on your 94 5.0? I know that they have been suggested as a simple and cheap means of helping the 5.0 perform better.

I don't know what gear you are currently running, but if you simply want some added snap, try the 3.55 rear gears. You can only go so fast on the street anyway, but the 3.55's will get you up to the speed limit pretty darn fast.:)

[astglenn]

Is there any advantage in going with the Explorer heads and intake, on your 94 5.0? I know that they have been suggested as a simple and cheap means of helping the 5.0 perform better.

I don't know what gear you are currently running, but if you simply want some added snap, try the 3.55 rear gears. You can only go so fast on the street anyway, but the 3.55's will get you up to the speed limit pretty darn fast.:)

2X on that. 3:55 is a fantastic ratio for these cars. Seem to work really well behind just about anything.

[mike forte]

Hi,
I would boost it. Either a 5 or 8 lbs kit will give you plenty of extra power. I know I have 1 more Vortech ready to ship.
Mike Forte

[Ophitoxaemia]

Ah, I also did underdrive pulleys- cheap and easy way for a few HP.

[Richard Oben]

Cam you have, so you need heads and intake. It will easily bolt on 75 to 100 HP. BUT with heads and intake you should have injectors throttle body and MAF and maybe a better fuel pump. We have done it for about 2k with everything new. Dead reliable 350 HP all day long. JMHO, Richard.

PS If you boost go with a good positive displacement blower, centrigular blowers work better at higher RPM which suck with side pipes. Again JMHO, Richard.

[daboozmann]

I was in the same shoes, used 5.0 but wanted more power, well Im paying alot more for the power.
Im using a Paxton 8lb blower, edelbrock heads, cam, 155lph pump, and still need to buy larger injectors,
and Im going to go with megasquirt on the ignition, so that makes my whole budget get out of control.
My advice? Get some better heads to match the cam, or get a blower from Mike.
Vortech/Paxton are the same company, same great parts. With the blower you wont really need better heads.
But this is where the fine print comes in. If you go with a blower, you will need to either use the FMU [fuel Management Unit] which is a pressure regulator for your fuel line. This will allow you to keep your existing ignition injectors etc. Or you can go crazy and go with larger injectors and then either use megasquirt/microsquirt or have a tuner burn a chip for your ECM, and a larger fuel pump. If I misspoke then please someone jump in.
Let us know what you decide, and if we dont see pics then it didnt happen!
Viel gluck!
daboozmann

[Steve Gogo]

I'm selling my supercharger setup. I ran this on my car for a total of roughly 4,500 miles beginning in 2004 - July 2008 and then from July 2009 - July 2010. This is is perfect condition. Since I had the j-pipe setup, I had to clearance the main bracket slightly.

My car was a stock long-block 1987 5.0 with an Explorer intake, 65mm TB, shorty headers and 130K miles on it and it ran 12.84 @ 115.43. I blew a head gasket which is why it wasn't on the car from July '08 until July '09.

The kit is VOR-4FA218-048SQ and is the polished kit. I polished all the brackets and stainless steel front plate as well. Also included in the kit is the Crane HI6-S ignition setup with boost retard; Summit part #'s CRN-6000-6301, CRN-6000-6425, CRN-9000-0110. All the hardware and any special bolts, AN fittings, etc. are included. I even have the original installation instructions and manuals for both.

I can also include an Autometer Classic boost gauge ATM-2401. I also think I have an ASP smog pump eliminator as well, but I have to double check.

The current replacement cost for everything is over $3,800. I'll let it go for $2,200.

Let me know.

[AJ Roadster NJ]

Three things;

First, I don't disagree with many of the comments you've gotten here. I am currently lusting after one of the blowers in the Ford Racing catalog myself.

Second, I'd like to repeat what Lex said, but in a different way -- your motor is a system, not a collection of parts. Anything you replace has to be compatible with the remainder of the system, not just in the "will it fit" sense but in the sense of "do these parts make sense together." From that perspective, having a clear idea of what the final goal is, a clearly defined "system", makes sense because over time you'll save money building towards that goal.

Third, given you're request to keep the costs down right now, I absolutely agree that 3.55 rear end gears could change your experience dramatically depending on what you currently run. For very little money (relatively speaking) this will wake the beast in a big way and transform your driving experience.

Good luck!

AJ

[cmsu]

I'm selling my supercharger setup. I ran this on my car for a total of roughly 4,500 miles beginning in 2004 - July 2008 and then from July 2009 - July 2010. This is is perfect condition. Since I had the j-pipe setup, I had to clearance the main bracket slightly.

My car was a stock long-block 1987 5.0 with an Explorer intake, 65mm TB, shorty headers and 130K miles on it and it ran 12.84 @ 115.43. I blew a head gasket which is why it wasn't on the car from July '08 until July '09.

The kit is VOR-4FA218-048SQ and is the polished kit. I polished all the brackets and stainless steel front plate as well. Also included in the kit is the Crane HI6-S ignition setup with boost retard; Summit part #'s CRN-6000-6301, CRN-6000-6425, CRN-9000-0110. All the hardware and any special bolts, AN fittings, etc. are included. I even have the original installation instructions and manuals for both.

I can also include an Autometer Classic boost gauge ATM-2401. I also think I have an ASP smog pump eliminator as well, but I have to double check.

The current replacement cost for everything is over $3,800. I'll let it go for $2,200.

Let me know.

Hey Steve, I'm interested in the supercharger, I sent you a pm with my contact info. Thanks