Nick's Build Page (Canadian '33 #???)

[hdnik]

Well I have made the decision to post my build on this forum as opposed to the FFCars Site. I'm not really sure why. I know many of you are in both places; though maybe under different names (ie here I'm HDNIK, there I'm LOWNTUBD (low 'n tubbed)... I guess I just like this site better for some reason!

To Begin! January 9th, 2013 the Canadian Starter Kit Arrived!
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I haven't started the inventory yet... very busy at work. That begins Saturday! Until then it sits tarped in the driveway
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For those that care; I have started a build site or blog at lowntubd.blogspot.ca (http://lowntubd.blogspot.ca)

It now only tells the tale of how I got to this point, but will be updated regularly... as will this thread!

Thank you all for your help to date! I'm sure I will be leaning on you all quite a bit!

Nick

[wallace18]

Welcome. I also am posting my build on this site not ff. I look forward to following your build.

[hdnik]

Wallace18

Thanks. I'm also waiting for the completer pkg from Whitby Motorcar... that pallete of parts should arrive in the next few days!

[ehansen007]

Good luck! It's a blast. I still like making stuff for my car.

[hdnik]

Thanks for the encouragement. Big day tomorrow when we crack open the crate:D

[hdnik]

Wow! In fact let me say that again backwards... Wow!

That is one big box of parts. :eek: All went perfectly. If you know my area of the planet (near Niagara Falls) you know the weather can be an issue with most things. Yesterday we had freakishly great weather. 50 degrees and sunny... A perfect day to unpack the crate! Today back to normal... Cold and rain and chance of snow.
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In the end the body parts are stowed safely up on the hoist using some of the crate plywood as decking, the boxes are stacked in the basement undergoing a thorough inventory, and the chassis is on the dolly awaiting attention.
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One of the biggest jobs was dismantling the crate and salvaging the best wood.
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Still waiting on the "Canadian Completer Package" in transit now from Whitby Motorcar (10 more boxes of suspension, brakes and fuel system parts) as well as the rear end from Western Canada Cobras (also en-route).

With the inventory complete only a small backorder list... the hardtop. Not to worry... Won't need that for a while :)

Very exciting!

[Jay Mann]

Good luck from a fellow Canuck. You think the balmy weather in welland is an issue? It was -20C when I got to the unheated garage before Christmas, a big change from where I lived in Sumatra!!. Two portable propane heaters from Canadian Tire took the chill off. The tools stayed cold until the afternoon each day. But a little cold does not slow us down, we just could not do paint or fibreglas work.

Keep the pics coming.

[riptide motorsport]

Yeah.......I'm originally from Buffalo.........nutty weather. As they say: Don't like the weather...stick around for a couple of hours, it'll change!


Wow! In fact let me say that again backwards... Wow!

That is one big box of parts. :eek: All went perfectly. If you know my area of the planet (near Niagara Falls) you know the weather can be an issue with most things. Yesterday we had freakishly great weather. 50 degrees and sunny... A perfect day to unpack the crate! Today back to normal... Cold and rain and chance of snow.
14421

In the end the body parts are stowed safely up on the hoist using some of the crate plywood as decking, the boxes are stacked in the basement undergoing a thorough inventory, and the chassis is on the dolly awaiting attention.
14422 14423 14424

One of the biggest jobs was dismantling the crate and salvaging the best wood.
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Still waiting on the "Canadian Completer Package" in transit now from Whitby Motorcar (10 more boxes of suspension, brakes and fuel system parts) as well as the rear end from Western Canada Cobras (also en-route).

With the inventory complete only a small backorder list... the hardtop. Not to worry... Won't need that for a while :)

Very exciting!

[Barrel]

[QUOTE=hdnik

One of the biggest jobs was dismantling the crate and salvaging the best wood.
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With a $700 price tag on my crate I wasn't going to throw it out either. I used some of it as a platform for the body but the rest became an outdoor deck in a shady corner of our garden!

I like your build page already.
Cheers.

PS. What's all that white crap on your lawn?

[hdnik]

We begin with the front end mock up; test fit everything, then tear it all down to send raw parts out for powder coat.

First Kam (grandson) protects the chassis with pipe wrap foam and masking tape. Great job... maybe a little over kill :)
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Next the mock up. He's a great partner on this project. Tends to say "he can't", but always seems to pull it off... and yes I helped too!

Tear down was completed and all bare steel parts have been sent to the powder coaters.

[H R Lucky]

Nick,
How's your Dolly working out?
I am picking up my 33HR kit the first week of March, thinking of making a dolly like yours.


Nevin

[hdnik]

Nick,
How's your Dolly working out?
I am picking up my 33HR kit the first week of March, thinking of making a dolly like yours.


Nevin

Nevin, it working out great. My garage is tight. Works out great to move around and tuck away when I'm done for the day.

[hdnik]

Installed the brake brackets and a new cover onto the rear end. This is a typical 8.8 with a Torsen Trac lock diff. Slightly different procedure to remove axles.
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Once the cover is removed you have to remove the spring clip, retainer and axle spacer to be able to push in axles to pull c-clips.
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Then just a matter of removing the axles, bolting on the brackets as per instructions and reversing the order. Install a nicer cover and voila!!
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Mission complete.

[esff32]

Great job. Did you get the diff cover for a reasonable price? I was going to use the same one but the budget won't allow it at this point. I have too many other key parts to buy. I will probably just paint mine black and think about replacing it in the future.

[hdnik]

180 odd bucks at summit, but I had received some gift cards from the kids at Christmas to offset the price.

[esff32]

Nice. It looks great.

[hdnik]

Finished work later tonight but had time to make all the brake callipers the same colour. Should look good when I get them reassembled.

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[wallace18]

Looking great so far.

[hdnik]

PToday was front end day. The control arms etc came back from powder coat and look great. 15372

Then reassemble loosely. 15373 All though nothing new here for any of you. It was a fun day! Here's how it looks done.
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[hdnik]

Today my 12 year old Grandson (and build partner) Kamryn and I set out to get the rear end off the ground. I thought we'd need some manpower. But brains over brawn... With the rear end on 3 stands and the chassis on the dolly we were able to back the car up to the rear end and bolt it in place. Again no news here for anyone I'm sure, but we were pretty proud of ourselves :p

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[wallace18]

Looking great so far. I put my rear end in today. I'll post pictures on Monday. You are doing a good job. It is great to hear the grandson is helping.

[hdnik]

Looking great so far. I put my rear end in today. I'll post picturesa on Monday. You are doing a good job. It is great to hear the grandson is helping.

Yes he's taking an interest in cars. My own boys not so much when they were young but the oldest is in the car business now too.

My grandson and I are enrolled it the build school in march. Aught to be interesting.

[hdnik]

Just installed the rotors and callipers. I think the look good painted the same front and rear.
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[hdnik]

Just a side post... The car I sold to make this project happen was a 67 chevelle. I had a rendering done by a young graphic design student from Idaho. His name is Sam Ames... Check out his stuff www.AmesCustomDesigns.blogspot.com (http://www.AmesCustomDesigns.blogspot.com) I came across him surfing the net a couple years ago... And when I did, I commissioned him to do the chevelle from a few pics I emailed him like this
15438 and he came back with 15439

He's been working on another one for me on the 33. He's doing both the front and back.. Only this time I sent him pics of many of the cars on this forum and a wish list of what mine will hopefully look like... Now I know for sure... Here is the low res draft of the rear he just emailed me for my approval
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Can't wait to see the front view rendering.

This kid is gifted!

[hdnik]

Just a side post... The car I sold to make this project happen was a 67 chevelle. I had a rendering done by a young graphic design student from Idaho. His name is Sam Ames... Check out his stuff www.AmesCustomDesigns.blogspot.com (http://www.AmesCustomDesigns.blogspot.com) I came across him surfing the net a couple years ago... And when I did, I commissioned him to do the chevelle from a few pics I emailed him like this
15438 and he came back with 15439

He's been working on another one for me on the 33. He's doing both the front and back.. Only this time I sent him pics of many of the cars on this forum and a wish list of what mine will hopefully look like... Now I know for sure... Here is the low res draft of the rear he just emailed me for my approval
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Can't wait to see the front view rendering.

This kid is gifted!


The Front View is Done.... Fantastic!!
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[wallace18]

That fellow is truly an artist. WoW!

[hdnik]

I was amazed that he was able to capture what was in my minds eye. All i did was send hime pics of other cars and parts and a few notes and voila... just as i imagined.

[hdnik]

So it's been a few weeks. I've been kind of in a hold pattern until I get back from the F5 build school next weekend. In the mean time I've got a few decisions made and gone forward with the firewall.

I set the body square and centred as per instruction on the other forum dangerous curves. Then located the firewall.
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Once the firewall was in place I marked it and removed the body. A few of then welds where the chassis and firewall meet had to be ground away to allow the aluminum to sit flat. will have to touch that up once the pieces go to powdercoating. I got most of the drilling, tapping and screwing done (that came out wrong) but ran out of steam today. Very tedious work but relaxing in a funny sort of way.

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I used a few good #21 bits and a #10-32 tap. For now we have some stainless button heads but I will get chrome ones for the firewall once it goes in for good.

[hdnik]

My prints came in from Sam Ames... He did the rendering of what the car will look like done. I also found a 1-24 scale die cast model of the car on eBay that I couldn't resist.
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I also played around with the renderings of Sam's and photoshop'd both views into an Atlantic City backdrop
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[hdnik]

Now the decisions and revisions I will make. After reading numerous threads about the harsh ride, I decided to call Dan Ruth and have ordered his QA1 shocks and springs for both the front and rear. The springs are longer and lighter and the shocks are single adjustable with 18 settings.

As far as tires go, I want to have at least 4.5 inches of tire around the rims... Not really a fan of the rubber band look and again to help cushion the ride a bit. I was ready to go with 17's front and rear to accomplish this and stay within the maximum of 26.5" rear tire height with fenders. After speaking with Dan however, I've decided to replace the lower rear control arms with adjustable ones. I'll pick up an extra 1/2 of wheelbase without having to replace the driveshaft and also be able to dial in the pinion angle by replacing the uppers with adjustables as well.

All of this will allow me to use an 18" rim on the rear (my first choice) with a taller tire. Falken makes RT615K's in 295/40R-18 that are 27.3 inches tall... This should be perfect.

Will post pics etc once the parts arrive.

[hdnik]

Off to build school tomorrow. Will post pics when I get back unless there is wifi in hotel room..

Got a deal on some seats. The fellow who will be doing my interior had some traded from a guy who wanted a bench in his rod. They've been sitting around in his shop for a while. They are Glide buckets. Frames are 16.25" wide and like new... So is the foam and springs. the tracks and mechanisims are perfect. The seat covers are lame and will be removed and the bolsters will be shaved a bit, but they are just what I was looking for in general shape and style.

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[H R Lucky]

Nick,
Good luck at the build school to you and your grandson.

Nevin:cool:

[wallace18]

Have a good time at school. Don't forget to share any tips with us. Safe travel.

[hdnik]

Thanks guys. It ought to be fun... And yes I will share all the top secrets. Hopefully I can give back as much as I have got from this forum.

[hdnik]

At the end of day 2 we can cart it. Here is a video of our first start. Actually it was our second attempt. Seems one of the guys left a ground off on the ECM... But once we found that... Good to go.

http://youtu.be/4DLhORRj-QY

Day 3 Ends with a test run http://youtu.be/xEICAK3002c
This is a 140,000 mile donor 5.0L 225HP with T5

[hdnik]

Finally able to put some time in on the hot rod.
Got the rack and ps unit installed... Still looking for the right length bolts for ps motor.
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Next decided to run the brake lines from wheel to wheel.
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Also refitted the body and drilled all holes in firewall before sending out for powder (and yes... the passenger side still requires an amount of material removed to fit nicely to the body) I wasn't happy with the way the firewall and fiberglass just bolt together. I felt the corners need some support, so I fabbed back supports, tapped and threaded for the 3 screws on each top corner to create a Fiberglass sandwich between them and the firewall.

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[hdnik]

I have decided to replace the entire fuel system. I had already gone with the boyd tank and a Holley blue external pump and regulator, but I'm not really all that impressed with the barb fittings and rubber lines or the 5/16 fuel line size, so got onto summit and ordered a box of Russell 6 AN fittings. Hose and hose ends as well as 3/8 aluminum fuel line. Also ditching the tuna can fuel filter for a 100 micro pre filter and 40 micron post filter. Nice Holley billet ones. Will post pics when done installation.

[hdnik]

I'm now convinced the batter will go in the trunk. Probably will use a yellow top. With that decision made that allowed me a little more leeway with the fuel system.. Roughed in the back half this afternoon while my darling young bride was out getting her hair cut.. Solice in the garage
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I'll run 3/8 aluminum hard line up to the front and then back to flex line in the engine bay.q

[wallace18]

Looking good! I like the black hose.

[hdnik]

As the winter turns to spring, room has to be made in the garage for the bikes. Seriously the garage is like a rubrics cube or slide puzzle. Everything is on wheels and gets shuffled around from day to day. But then the special delivery.... The arrival of the new motor and trans!

Very exciting day!
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[hdnik]

Engine un-crating day today. One of my techs at the dealership brought the cherry picker from work. Set in on a set of Motofeet and parked it at the back of the garage until we need her later this summer. She's a beauty eh? 302/352hp/329tq at the crank with accessories. Thanks to Al Beix at WCC, and Norm Wilson at Fortin's Engines (both in Chilliwack BC) who builds them for Al.
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[narkosys]

How was the experience dealing with them? I am thinking of getting them to build a 427 for me for when I build a coupe. (yes, I have gone a tad insane :P )

Can't wait to hear it run.

P

[hdnik]

They were great. Norm kept me in the loop, he took pictures all through the build from machining to completion. Being Canadian was a big bonus for me as well because brokerage fees from the USA are ridiculous for large items. The price was competitive in Canadian funds. In the end I think a great choice. Plus he originally suggested 8-10 weeks. It was built in 6 and on my doorstep before 7th week ended... So under promised and over delivered.

[narkosys]

Nice. I live only a few hours away so my plan is to just drive down to Chilliwack and pick it up along with the tranny.

P

[wallace18]

That is a great looking setup. Should be a ton of fun.

[hdnik]

Spent some quality time in the garage this weekend. Finally.
Got the firewall back from powder and decided to lizard skin it... Both products SC first and CI after a day.
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While waiting for everything to dry I buttoned up the fuel lines, fittings and pump. Used some heat shield to help protect from muffler.
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Once complete I made a pot of coffee and set to polishing the 10-32 stainless button heads for the firewall.... I knew I should have bought a buffing wheel for my bench grinder... I still have no feeling in my right thumb and index finger. Lol
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Tedious work to clean up the edges of the firewall before mounting but I really like the "thud" sound it makes now. According to the folks at Lizard skin, the CI product will help reduce heat even when applied inside.
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Well that was my weekend. Seems like I'm a turtle compare to many of you... But I just plod along and and before you know it the day is gone. Funny thing is this darn smile I have on my face when I look in the mirror... Can't figure it out.

[wallace18]

Looking great! I also have the grin as well as time goes so fast while working on the 33 for me. Don't worry about how fast it goes along. You are doing a great job. Enjoy. What color did you choose for the firewall? I can't tell from the photos.

[hdnik]

Near chrome, same as the suspension.

[hdnik]

I got really lucky. While premature, they were available so I scooped them up. Now I need suggestions on where they might be mounted... Particularly the front one.

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[wallace18]

Great score on the plates.

[hdnik]

Boy déjà vu day today.

Ditched the F5 shocks and springs for adjustable QA1's from Dr. Ruth. 425's up front and 325's in rear.
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[hdnik]

Another Dr. Ruth addition. Resolves 2 issues I've had concerns for.

1. The location of tire in the rear wheel opening, being forward of centre; particularly noticeable with a full fender car.
2. Therefore the inability to run a rear tire taller that about 26.5 inches

The Doctors' simple solution... Lengthen the wheel base. Ideally an inch but that may require the need for a longer driveshaft. I should be able to get up to 3/4 of an inch using these adjustable lower control arms and once ride height is set, re-adjust the pinion angle to spec... Maybe -2 degrees from inline?(suggestions are welcome on angle) with adjustable upper arms.

Mission completed.
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[H R Lucky]

Another Dr. Ruth addition. Resolves 2 issues I've had concerns for.

1. The location of tire in the rear wheel opening, being forward of centre; particularly noticeable with a full fender car.
2. Therefore the inability to run a rear tire taller that about 26.5 inches

The Doctors' simple solution... Lengthen the wheel base. Ideally an inch but that may require the need for a longer driveshaft. I should be able to get up to 3/4 of an inch using these adjustable lower control arms and once ride height is set, re-adjust the pinion angle to spec... Maybe -2 degrees from inline?(suggestions are welcome on angle) with adjustable upper arms.

Mission completed.
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I have been thinking of installing the adjustable control arms also, if it's not too intrusive, would you mind posting where your got them and how much?

thanks,
Nevin

[hdnik]

Dan Ruth (aka Dr. Ruth) at Innovative Rodding Specialists (www.innovativerodding.com). They were part of a larger order's total, but they'd have accounted for roughly $500 of the whole thing.

[hdnik]

Installed power brake booster today... Very slick set up... See details at this link
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10226-Power-Brakes-installed-on-the-33&p=100875#post100875

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[wallace18]

Looks great! Are you going to have enclosed side panels?

[hdnik]

Yes sir. It will be close imho, i may have to use a smaller master.

[hdnik]

Did some rough measuring for hood and side panels using tape. Looks like about 3/4 inch clearance conservatively.
Added a chrome lids and an ssbc proportioning valve and finished brake lines. Fussy job eh... But fun. Used the nickel copper stuff. Much easier to deal with, no joints and nicer flares.
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[wallace18]

Looks great ! I like all the shiny stuff. I wish I would have used differant brake lines.

[hdnik]

Thanks wallace. Looking forward to seeing yours painted. Man you rocked that build. I hope to get mine carted before end of summer, seems every step takes me an entire weekend to complete... But thats my fun time i guess. I'm only building one so may as well take my time eh?

[hdnik]

Just back from vacation week in Vegas, and have made a decision to go with the ISIS power management system.... So we again have some parts for sale

Wiring Harness - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10511-Chassis-Wiring-Harness-for-sale
Seats - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10510-Black-Vinyl-Roadster-Seats-for-sale
Wilwood M/C's and Pedals - http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10512-Wilwood-Master-Cylinders-075-bore-forged-pedals
-for-sale

ALL SOLD... Thanks All

[hdnik]

Well its been a couple months since the engine and trans arrived and was parked at the back of the garage, 1928919290 but today we took it out of its little house of cardboard and installed it in its new home. 192911929219293

All went very well. It looks great thanks to Norm Wilson at Fortins Engines in Chilliwack BC.. No problem with the power steering motor clocking, though i was prepared. Clearly FFR has supplied 2 sets of mounting holes and the lower set worked fine... No re- drilling required. 19294

Sone small thing. The big ph8a filter needed to be replaced with one that has a short narrower body... No probs other than that.19295

All in all about 3 hours work. 1929619297

[wallace18]

Looking great Nick!

[hdnik]

Returned from a few fun days in Nashville TN. Back to work in the car!

Thought it time to mock up the exhaust. On the advice of Olli at the other forum, i went went with Magnaflows 14362. Not as pretty as the F5 cans but i know Magnaflows... Unsure of the F5 ones plus im still waiting on a backordered muffler (was only shipped one) http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316833

Rather than use the pipe extesion he suggested (although i did order them too) i think i can make up the couple inches in lenth with these clamps. I just havent figured out the best way of using the stock hardware with them yet, but thats for tomorrow maybe.

The ford racing short ceramics fit perfectly and everything went together pretty easily.

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[wallace18]

Nick, depending where you want your exh tips, you may want to lengthen them some. I had to use different tips to get mine past the body.

[hdnik]

Nick, depending where you want your exh tips, you may want to lengthen them some. I had to use different tips to get mine past the body.

Funny you mention it. I was wondering that myself. Ive been trying to find posts about it. I think i will post up a question in the exhaust area.

[hdnik]

It seems the exhaust is proving more challenging than i expected. These cheap stainless clamps were not holding very tight and were sure to leak. I used a tube spreader to modify the pipe extension so that all the joints lapped from the rear of the joint. That meant spreading the header extension so the magnaflow would fit snuggly over it, then spreading the extension to fit over the magnaflow exit, and finally spreading the rear exhaust tube to fit over that. I them used magnaflow band clamps (very sturdy items) to tighten it all down. Solid as a rock!
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[wallace18]

Those are some stout looking clamps. Wait till you do the rear pipes. Then the real fun starts. LOL.

[hdnik]

Yes i can already sense that.

[hdnik]

FINALLY got to complete the exhaust today. Im sure I'll have to tweet it once body goes on but for now all measurements are pretty good.

Given the revisions I had to make for the shorter Magnaflows, My buddy had a great idead. With the big band clamps it was all very stiff but we had lateral movement, so we threaded the factory five hangers, al little high heat aluminum paint and a 3/8 nut to pull the system side to side. You can walk on the mufflers its so taught!

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[H R Lucky]

Exhaust system looks very stout Nick, Magnaflows should sound very good also. I guess I will be using the FFR mufflers for now as my budget is getting tight.
keep up the good work.

Nevin

[hdnik]

I know the feeling. I'm frustrated lately with my inability to get things accomplished. Seems every weekend is tied up with something. My to do list is getting longer every time i go into the garage. Almost like I'm going backwards.

Ive convince my wife to take a weeks holiday with me in mid september. She too has a bunch of things she wants to get done. My hopes is i can get something done on the 33 and clock a few miles on our Harleys.

I want to get it fired before winter, so i don't think its a lofty goal..., but at my turtle pace lately... Who knows.

[hdnik]

As i prepare for the wiring (isis system) i thought it time to pre-fit the aluminum. Got as far as the floor. Next Tim's under tank piece and trunk. Went well. Had to cut off the footwell sides as taught in the build school. All went well with a little patience. Surprised how well the tunnel fit in after what i had read before.
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It is clearer to me now where all the modules will go.

[hdnik]

More aluminum today, trunk, tunnel, gas tank mounting and battery tray mounting.
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I will have to make a patch panel and move the hole for the filler neck in the trunk. Forgot my FFR tank had the newer filler neck location down low.

[hdnik]

Finished more mock up on aluminum, tank, Tim Whitaker floor panels and under tank panel as well as startedted the mock up on the ISIS system.

See more pics at my build site http://www.lowntubd.blogspot.ca
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[hdnik]

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Test photobucket

[hdnik]

Made the aluminum panels to support the ISIS front power cell and the master cell. They will go were the master cylinders were before i put the power brake package on.
Here is the cardboard mock up
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Had to cut away the 2 posts that held the brake parts
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Made a support that will be riveted to back side of firewall chassis and used 2 bolts that hold up the pedal box to support panel.
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Still have to mount the modules. Now the access panel in the cowl of the body will be used to maintain the fuses in the powercell rather than brake maintenance.

[hdnik]

Picked up the shut off and the Dakota digital dash today. Should have all the parts to start wiring.... Stay tuned

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[hdnik]

This weekend I thought it time to get the lizard skin on the aluminum. 20 ml of sound and 2 coats of ceramic... Same as firewall. The stuff really deadens the sound of the panels.
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You have to take time to set the spray gun and air pressure as per instructions. Ends up looking like bed liner... Maybe a bit specklier... If thats a word

Got my wife and grandsons stripping the seats I bought a few months back down to the frames. The bolsters have to go to fit my fat ***. I doubt i will do the upholstery myself. Those are the finishings that i will leaves to the pros. This is what they looked like before i set them loose.
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[hdnik]

Ok. A job I'd been putting off out of fear. Now too many of you this may seem like nothing but for me... Huge!
Tinkered all my adult life with cars, but honestly never had my fingers near an automatic transmission. There i said it. Always had a gear car and i can wrap my head around that, but the Automatic transmission has always been a mystery to me.

Today i pulled the pan to install the Lokar shift lever and shifter. To my amazement... Not so bad. Followed the instructions, watch some you tube videos and it all went well. Darn proud of myself :)
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Next.. Location of the shifter. After much research online and in email with Dr. Ruth and Bruce H. I decided on a Lokar 6" shifter... Problem is that the mounting hardware sits forward of the tailstock which with an AOD, leaves the shifter too far forward and close to the dash. I want it to fall in hand more like a 5 speed would without a long bent shifter arm.

So i used the rear mount bracket as the rear bracket then took a trip to the hardware store for a bunch of parts and u-bolts exhaust hangers and washers and nuts and cam up with a solid way to support the rear of the mounting bracket at the back of the trans. 2232422325

Of course this left the supplied shifter rod too short, so out i went to pick up some aluminum 1/4" rod to thread with my trusty tap and die set... Mission accomplished. Once i make a few cuts in the tunnel should be good to go.
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[wallace18]

Nice job on the shifter. Your location is much better IMO.

[hdnik]

Thanks Wallace. Hows the 818 coming. I will have to check it out on that forum.

Today we just installed a few items... Carb, starter, driveshaft and made a few cuts to the tunnel for the shifter. Also refit the flooring after the lizard skin.

Why is it everything seems to take me so much longer than most.... Oh boy.
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[hdnik]

Following a page from oldfartracing with the lokar throttle cable and hitech kickdown cable for aod trans. Not many options with that combo and a holley carb.

I bought one of TimW's gas pedal pads that match the brake, but cant use it with my gas pedal... No biggy. Also have his mechanical throttle linkage, but with aod trans the kick down requires the use of lokar throttle hardware to keep ratio 1 to 1... And such a nice piece it is. That said the lokar cable is a snap and i would recommend it over the FFR set up.

The Kootenai floor pan is sure nice to mount the pedal and dimmer switch to. Still have to find a way to support it from behind though.

224742247522476224772247822479

[kraftee]

Looks great Nick. I have the same floor plan inserts from Tim. Have you considered mounting that dimmer switch BEHIND the Kootenai plate? ERIC

[maczter]

On the dimmer switch, since floor real estate is such a premium, have you looked at one of the push button switches that are on the tilt arm for the column? I bought one and while not completely wired in yet, I am liking it.

[hdnik]

Kraftee, yes i did think about going behind but i wanted the switch to hit the frame rail for support and keep it over to left. You can see the right mount bolt is in line with the diagonal member. Once the fat mat, underpad and carpet go down, the switch will be flush

Maczter, I had considered the column set up from Ron Francis at one point, but that was before i went with the ISIS wiring which made this an easy wiring thing and I do like the simplicity and old school feel of a switch on the floor.

[hdnik]

Had time today as our Thanksgiving gathering is tomorrow at our sons house. Was able to finish the fuel system by installing the regulator and dual feed, also got the coil mounted. Seems the small jobs take a lot of time and thinking. Very good for the soul. Nothing like puttering around the garage. I have a lot to be thankful for!

22530 2253122532

[myjones]

Nick
Those fuel line clamps are nice, what brand are those?
DB

[hdnik]

Nick
Those fuel line clamps are nice, what brand are those?
DB

Billet Specialties
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bsp-65510/overview/

[wallace18]

Had time today as our Thanksgiving gathering is tomorrow at our sons house. Was able to finish the fuel system by installing the regulator and dual feed, also got the coil mounted. Seems the small jobs take a lot of time and thinking. Very good for the soul. Nothing like puttering around the garage. I have a lot to be thankful for!

22530 2253122532

Nick, If you are going to install a fuel pressure gauge on the regulator you may have to shim it out some from the firewall. Ask me how I know. LOL.

[hdnik]

22553 Ok I give... What did i do wrong.

[Boz1911]

22553 Ok I give... What did i do wrong.

What kind of problem are you having?

[wallace18]

22553 Ok I give... What did i do wrong.

When I mounted my regulator right to the firewall with its bracket the round gauge hit the firewall. I had to shim it out with washers about 1/8" for it to clear. Yours may not hit depending on the diameter of your gauge.

22555

[jayguy]

They are mounted differently. Wallace mounted his on the left side (looking at the firewall) directly into the port, and Nick mounted his on a T (looks like) off the right side of the regulator, pointing forward. I don't see any clearance issues with it.

The pic Wallace commented about didn't have the gauge installed yet.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22531&d=1381721928

Here it is installed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22553&d=1381754919

[hdnik]

Yes. Thank you. Thought i messed up somewhere.

[Jim Carmichael]

Happy Thanksgiving day! It is the same as our Columbus day here in the states so it feels strange to hear about Thanksgiving in October. You are doing a great job and the time spent with your grandson could not be better utilized. I am also building a hot rod with my grandson who will be 13 in November.

[hdnik]

With Tony Zullo and Dave Smith at SEMA. Both perfect gentlemen and easy to talk to. Never met anyone at FFR before.... Being Canadian only ever dealt with Al Beix her in Canada At Western Canada Cobras and with Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcars and even then only by phone email etc.

Was nice getting a handshake and some information from these guys! Maybe silly but it made my short trip to Vegas seem a little more worthwhile.

[wallace18]

Tony's a wealth of information on the 33. He helped me a bunch.

[hdnik]

Back to work. The plan is to start at the front and go to the rear and button everything up so I can fire this thing in the next few weeks.

A job I had not been looking forward to was the rad/condenser/grill. Other than time consuming ( took me better part of a Saturday ) all went well.

Just took my time and followed instructions trying all the while to remember which way is up and front and left and right.

I had purchased one of Mike Eversons fan shrouds and remembered reading that the fan would fit in front of it. I think it was a post or a note from Dan Ruth... So I thought I'd give it a go to keep the fan tight to the rad core. Used both the stock install bars as well as the parts that came with the shroud and it all fit great.

Also noticed the the grill is already relief cut for the condenser... Nice addition to the kit.

[Arrowhead]

Don't want to be a downer, but I really don't think it's a good idea to mount your fan inside the shroud. Your effectively blocking off the four corners of the radiator and there is no way for the air to flow out. The whole point of the shroud is to allow the fan to pull air across the whole area of the radiator, not just the center. The only way that works correctly is to mount the fan on the outside of the shroud. If there is no room to do this, then I would loose the shroud.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23441&d=1384701767

[kraftee]

I have to agree with Arrowhead. You really need to take advantage of all the radiator surface area you've got! I used one of Mike's shrouds too and mounting the fan inside was very tempting. It looks very clean and with the condenser mounted on the front of the radiator, and the fan mounted OUTSIDE the shroud on the back, the whole package becomes quite wide. In fact, when installed on my car, the top shock mounts just barely touch the plastic fan cover with the suspension at full extension. It shouldn't be a problem, but if that package were a half-inch wider, it wouldn't work!

[hdnik]

Say no more gents. I will conform to the instructions. You are all probably correct! Thank you for input! No big deal really, just too smart for my own britches!

[hdnik]

If I could ask those that have used this shroud... Is there a need for any type of seal around the edges in order to achieve maximum negative pressure across the entire surface of the rad? If so what might I use. I'd be reluctant to use any typ of foam tape for fear of it becoming a sticky mess with the heat.

Thoughts?

[Barrel]

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q498/NeilHussey/HRBuildPics041_zps0c4bfbd5.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/NeilHussey/media/HRBuildPics041_zps0c4bfbd5.jpg.html)http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q498/NeilHussey/HRBuildPics040_zps614e99f3.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/NeilHussey/media/HRBuildPics040_zps614e99f3.jpg.html)

I used "U" profile mounting rubber on the long edges only. I really enjoy reading your build pages Nick.

[Robert Andrew]

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q498/NeilHussey/HRBuildPics041_zps0c4bfbd5.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/NeilHussey/media/HRBuildPics041_zps0c4bfbd5.jpg.html)http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q498/NeilHussey/HRBuildPics040_zps614e99f3.jpg (http://s1160.photobucket.com/user/NeilHussey/media/HRBuildPics040_zps614e99f3.jpg.html)

I used "U" profile mounting rubber on the long edges only. I really enjoy reading your build pages Nick.

I think the rubber "U" channel will be a great means of preventing metal on metal erosion from potential vibration. I could see a hole developing in the radiator in a fairly short period of time if there is any metal to metal contact between the shroud and the radiator. More great engineering that I will use in building my car. Thanks.

[hdnik]

Barrel, where would one buy that u channel in smaller quantities?

[Barrel]

I get most automotive rubber products from Clark Rubber in Australia. They sell over the counter by the metre. Their web site will at least give you what is available and perhaps may help with ordering similar products in Canada by description and profile. You can try; www.clarkrubber.com.au

[wallace18]

Barrel, where would one buy that u channel in smaller quantities?

Nick, Steele products is a good source.

[hdnik]

Ok we have the cooling system buttoned up. I swear it takes me longer than you all to do stuff.


Anyway on everyone's generous and accurate advice i move the fan to the outside of the shroud. No problem still fits fine. Also used Mike Everson's hose kit. I will dress them up later, I just am not a fan of the corrugated stainless hose that F5 supplies. As a temporary measure I made a heater bypass hose to fire engine as AC unit will go in later. Finally, to eliminate possible metal on metal rubbing between shroud and rad, I just used some door edge moulding. It fits snuggly and should do the trick.

Id post pics however it seems the system wont allow me to for some reason

[hdnik]

Let's try again23822238232382423825

[hdnik]

Another job that was concerning me went very well despite my fears. Bleeding brake lines! First I bench bled the master from whitby's power brake set up... Went well once everything was tight enough. It took two laps of the car to get a nice firm pedal. No leaks... All is well!

All I have left to do is make some tranny cooler lines, install the trans pan and rear diff cover to get all fluids in it... Then it's wire it and fire it!

[hdnik]

Making read for wiring the ISIS power package. Just laying out everything and thinking it through.
24226
I will start with the largest gauge stiff first all the power and grounds and move around the car. Had to make some jumpers for the Jblock mega fuses
24227

[hdnik]

Last of the lines are completed... Trans lines proved a little fussier than I thought to route them nicely.

Need some suggestions. For thos with AC and heat. Where did you mount your coolant overflow resevoirs. Not much room on my passenger side firewall with fuel lines coming up there and with p brakes no room on driver side.

Also my rads over flow outlet is pointing out on driver side. My though was to fab a new bracket and mount beside rad forward of where it would normally go.

If all goes well we will fire it this weekend coming.

[MT-ED]

Nick.........Enjoying this build thread greatly. Your attention to detail is fantastic and this is going to be a fabulous car when finished.

I am a keen amateur photographer and would love to get into photographing Hot-Rods more. If you would like some nice "arty" pictures of your car when finished, I would be glad to oblige. I'm in Toronto, so not too far away.

Here's one I took of a well-known Ontario car.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/Artwork/IMG_06831600x1200HDR_zps4f7a2c6e.jpg

[hdnik]

Much appreciated comments. You wonder sometimes if the details get through on these forums. If all goes well it would still be summer before I get this to paint and interior, but stay tuned! And yes I'd quite interested in glam shots when it's done!

check out my blog if you haven't already.

thanks again.

[MT-ED]

I checked your blog (again) and noticed that you're a licence plate freak like myself...........My Cadillac was CADILIKE and our Kia Soul we have now is MYSOULM8.

When I was working on my Dream project design http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13080-33-Dream thoughts about the Ontario front licence plate requirement entered my head. It's awkward when you're not running a front bumper and the plain simple fact is if you mount a plate dead-centre on the grille it's going to look awful and totally detract from the beauty of its design.

I've come up with this design. Not having a 33 here to take dimensions off it's possibly proportionately inaccurate, but you'll get the idea. It could be water-jetted out for a clean finish in Aluminium and the bend put in by a brake. I think leaning the plate backward at the same angle as the grille would look "right". Powder coat it black and it would virtually disappear. Obviously, this design can be flipped to mount the plate either side of the car and the part that goes under the nose would provide a little skid protection to the nose underside glass-fibre. This area might need bending a little to conform to the underside of the nose.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/33%20Fords/33frontlicenceplatemount_zpse847a582.jpg

We may not like having to clutter up the front ends of our cars, but the law's the law.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/2013-02-182122_zps7c3277c6.jpg

On our Soul I use a square section black plate surround with hidden screws from Walmart of all places ;) It visually shrinks the overall size of the plate.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/MYSOULM8/IMG_7317Copy_zps32ba6e50.jpg

I have a cool Ontario plate all figured out for my 33 project..........it's available, but I'm keeping it a secret :p

[hdnik]

I checked your blog (again) and noticed that you're a licence plate freak like myself...........My Cadillac was CADILIKE and our Kia Soul we have now is MYSOULM8.

When I was working on my Dream project design http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13080-33-Dream thoughts about the Ontario front licence plate requirement entered my head. It's awkward when you're not running a front bumper and the plain simple fact is if you mount a plate dead-centre on the grille it's going to look awful and totally detract from the beauty of its design.

I've come up with this design. Not having a 33 here to take dimensions off it's possibly proportionately inaccurate, but you'll get the idea. It could be water-jetted out for a clean finish in Aluminium and the bend put in by a brake. I think leaning the plate backward at the same angle as the grille would look "right". Powder coat it black and it would virtually disappear. Obviously, this design can be flipped to mount the plate either side of the car and the part that goes under the nose would provide a little skid protection to the nose underside glass-fibre. This area might need bending a little to conform to the underside of the nose.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/33%20Fords/33frontlicenceplatemount_zpse847a582.jpg

We may not like having to clutter up the front ends of our cars, but the law's the law.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/2013-02-182122_zps7c3277c6.jpg

On our Soul I use a square section black plate surround with hidden screws from Walmart of all places ;) It visually shrinks the overall size of the plate.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/MYSOULM8/IMG_7317Copy_zps32ba6e50.jpg

I have a cool Ontario plate all figured out for my 33 project..........it's available, but I'm keeping it a secret :p

Love it. Great idea. I am definitely going to copy this. It can serve as a Keel for protection and a plate support.... Nice! Maybe aluminum rather than powder? Had been thinking of a hideaway plate but they seem too deep to me and would be just as noticeable. Also have to mold something cool into the rear valence... not a fan of the std. plate set up there either, but that has many options and needs some more thought.

You can order the plate now. Affix it to the car later. I got lucky on 33HOTROD... I thought sure it'd be gone.

Stay Tuned! Thanks again for the idea's. Great!! Don't be surprised if you see this somewhere else (Hey Tim Whittaker (Kootenai Valley) are you seeing this?)

[MT-ED]

Yes, I could order the plate..........but I'm in no position at present to build my Dream '33 unfortunately.

As I was drawing that plate mount it occurred to me that one of the FF cottage-industry guys might pick up on it and make money out of it. I don't have a problem with that, just give me credit guys :) It would solve a problem that presents itself to builders from several Provinces and States. Hideaway mounts work on the back of rods, but you'd need some pretty fancy linkage set up to hide one under the nose of a '33 without drastically reducing ground clearance as it operated...........plus it would then detract from the visual impact while you're driving.

Yesterday I watched ZZ-Top's "Gimme All Your Lovin'" and the start of "The California Kid". You just can't clutter up that grille V shape. It just looks so wicked as the car approaches a viewer and visually lowers the car as it draws the eye downward.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/33%20Fords/CalKid_zps04ec3510.jpg

[hdnik]

A productive day yesterday. All lines done and clamped. All fluids installed. Overflow res figured out. And heat shield for mufflers done. I went a different way with that. The aluminum has all been sprayed with lizard skin sound as well as ceramic heat control. I cut the heat reflector material to fit within the frame members around the mufflers and then used the heat tape to close off the fiberous edges. It will sit on between the frame and floor when riveted. As it sticks well to the aluminum, it should work nicely.

[esff32]

Its looking awesome Nick, very nice quality build. Love it.

[hdnik]

Fire it up today. No issues once i tightened a plug in the fuel regulator.


http://youtu.be/89NM8WVsFGE

[MT-ED]

Bet you're stoked after that. This is one of the most significant stages of any build........It lives!

Sounds really sweet from what I've heard so far. That Dakota Digital dash looks awesome and is going to be a jewel in the interior. Interesting to see the Isis in operation. I first got to know about this system reading about Superlite Cars using it in their SLC, but I had not seen it working till now. You are obviously very impressed with it and once everything is tidied up I'm sure it's going to be good to live and drive with.
Wiring always looks so messy at this stage of a build. I once wired a Locost sports car from scratch using all new components and wiring. This is it finished, but it looked like a bird's nest for a while.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u88/Martin_Thoene/Cars/CarProjects15.jpg

Wiring was bundled with cable ties and left uncovered for future maintenance as it was a race car. Good thing was it fired up first time and all the lights,instruments, etc worked perfectly............so I understand the joy when a build stage is reached and passed with flying colours. Congrats!

[hdnik]

Latest update... if a picture is worth a 1000 words... a 12 minute video has gotta be worth a billion!

http://youtu.be/WJErLdVrCVo

[maczter]

Nick was looking at your blog and noticed something on your motor. You have vents in both valve covers but no PCV. Is that by design? I was reading a roadster post where the guys were all complaining about oil leaks at the rear seal area. I asked if any of they were running positive crank ventilation. Without it, one could easily develop all sorts of leaks. Been using it on all my blue tie motors for years. Is it a Ford thing not to run PCV?

Jack

[hdnik]

Yes the motor came from Fortins with 2 chrome vents? Not sure why. PCV is there for some time now. Passenger side. Used a billet specialties piece and ran hose to carb. I'm guessing your looking at earlier pics in the blog.
26463

[MT-ED]

Great video on the Isis story so far Nick. I'm impressed with the reduction in wire bulk as you described. In that picture I posted of the Locost car I wired you can see the front-end wire bundle beside the pedal box. It was roughly three times the thickness of your front end wires on what was a very basic car. I didn't know that Isis system switches function in the way you describe.......learn something every day ;)

[hdnik]

Picked away at the wiring over the last week or two...pretty happy with the whole mess. 3/4 of the MasterCell inputs will go unused and be cut back. You can see the 2 bundles coiled up. The rest will get routed, for the most part, down the tunnel beneath the console to the switches. The front harness is thin and easy to route about anywhere. Rear harness starts and finishes in trunk.

The only issue is wrapping your head around the switch not being inline with the device it controls and only switching to ground. Once you get that, this system is a breeze!

With the help of Jay and mike at isis, I was able to come up with a way to wire the wipers into a light duty spst toggle switch. Pic below. It will only have one speed and park, but it eliminates that ugly big honking knob that comes in kit.

I also appreciate the work done by Joe Leonne who mapped out the first isis system for the 33. Our set up is based around it but has had a couple major re programs to make it do what I need specifically to my car. ( easy as downloading a file file from Isis and flashing the MasterCell using my net book and the isis in code programming tool.)

[hdnik]

Well I haven't posted in a while. Not much has changed though I've been hard at work.

First off I took a vacation... Cruised the islands with the harley for 10 days ( you can check out this thread if you are so inclined... http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=92935.0 )

Upon on my return it was back to wiring. I'm almost to the point where the body will go back on to set gauge cluster etc but for now it's just a lot of the same.... Cut, solder, shrink, wrap, tape, zip... You all know the drill.

As I prepare to start on the body, i bought a bunch of stuff from Tim Whittaker at Kootenai Valley.. Dash panel, bump stop kit, delrin bushings, defrost manifold etc. I must say this... The quality he builds in is amazing. Right down to the packaging. This is my 3rd order from him and as new parts come available... I suspect it won't be my last. He and Dan Ruth (Innovative Rodding) and Jeff Collins at Whitby Motorcars are quite valuable resources for the 33 build.

Anyway, here is where we left it today. Switch panel mocked up, wiring harness for all switches and one button start made, most of the isis wiring dealt with.

Next I will have to get it fired again, top up fluids and adjust the kick down pressure on the aod. Then finish the AC plumbing and sound deadan the floor... Mock up the speakers mounts in the waterfall etc etc oh boy... Still a ton to do... But enjoying every minute of it.

[hdnik]

Wiring continues. Here's a video to bring us up to date as of yesterday

http://youtu.be/KmnXIyHWt94

[Boz1911]

Very cool love the push button panel!! Why don't you take a break and come finish my basic wiring..........

[hdnik]

Well I'm very proud to say every single connection worked. Exactly as programmed. Good amperage draw, all switches work flawlessly, all isis behaviours/personality ie, soft star and ignition aware etc worked perfectly (great system) no surprises at all.

Now that was a job and a half. Time to start buttoning up!

[MT-ED]

Good job...........can't wait to see the go-karting video...............you will make one won't you?

[hdnik]

Yes in deed!!! Wiring is now completed. Next up is ac/heat lines and then adjust AOD TV Pressure adjustment, seats install, fat mat, stereo wires tunnel, console mock up.... then carting then body fitment and mock up! OMG the list goes on and on!

[wallace18]

Nick your build is coming along very nicely. You are doing a first rate job. You should be very proud.

[Tim Whittaker]

Getting closer Nick !!!! Did the parts I sent you work out ok ?

[hdnik]

Working on the AC now. Struggled a bit finding a place to crimp the beadlock ends, but I got a place now. Had to buy more # 6 line (cut some wrong now the long piece I need is too short) also had to buy the 2 134 service port fittings in a straight configuration rather than the 135 supplied. Will take mor pics when done.

not hard at all... Just followed the manual from vintage and F5.

[hdnik]

Found the parts I needed. Now am sending lines out for crimps.

[hdnik]

Canada Day Weekend Update on 33

http://youtu.be/Xk83Qk3y0kw

[MT-ED]

Coming along beautifully Nick. A lot of plumbing there, but it really looks like you covered all the bases when it comes to maintenance on the system in the future.

[hdnik]

So it's been a while since last post. Back in July had an issue with car not starting. It was just after finishing the AC and while trying to burp the rad, the car stalled and would not fire again. No spark. Just like that.

After hours of testing and retesting long story it turns out to be the distributor. Car had a brand new powerfire... Junk. So I called the engine builder (Norm at Fortins Engines in BC and he send me a new MSD set up. I added an MSD coil and wires too in the process as well.

Anyway why so long? Well I'm not sure if this has happened to any one before, but since that failure in July, I found my confidence dropping. Not my desire, but my faith in being able to do things correctly. I was staring to lean on others because I could not figure this out. When it looked like it had to be the distributor, I looked for help to install it. Got none.

Now ow it's not like I hadn't done this before but it seemed like I wasn't sure if I could do it again. So I intalled it but didn't wire it up or try to fire the engine and time it for the same reason.... Thought I'd need hel doing it right.

Everyone is is so busy during the summer so while I can't really expect friends to drop things for the hotrod, I'd hoped someone else's luck or skill would yield better results.... Just no confidence.

So the moral of this tale of woe is this. If you ever find yourself in this "feeling sorry for yourself, and never gonna get things done or get them done right" state of mind, here's the fix.... Do some research, take your time, suck it up and turn on some music in the garage and just get it done!

Yesterday I did just that. I walked through the process slowly, re did everything one step at a time, whistled while I worked and low and behold... The car fired up and runs, idles and purrs like a kitten!

No help??? No problem. Confidence is back and I'm ready to take on the winter and finish this baby!

[xatudor]

Nick,
Your not the only one, been there and had the same self doubt over the simplist things. Stuff that I had done that many times I should have been able to do it in my sleep. Last one was rewiring my XY Falcon Ute, simple, done one exactly the same before (took 2 days) and everything worked never had any trouble. This one took more like a week, the alarm wouldn't work (missing fuse) then the alarm wouldn't arm, then it fixed its self then wouldn't disarm 3 hours stipping the dash out completely and trying to bypass everything (In a carpark at night after a 12 hour shift) next day realised it was missing 12V from the ignition switch (the fuse box had a faulty connection). I have started dreading the car, just going to bite the bullet and rewire the thing again, start simple and confirm the basics and then add on from there. Best part is when you succeed it makes the other jobs you've been putting off, return to being little jobs that you can finish and move on.
Good luck and remember the forum is here to help and sometimes its a good sounding board when you do have some doubt.
Mick

[wallace18]

Congrats on the start up. I started my coupe today also. Your 33 is looking great. Nice job. The filter on the gas tank any idea of the cost?

[Tim Whittaker]

Nick,

Glad you got it sorted out. I didn't know you were having a problems. I spend most of my time ( as do most ) on the FFcars.com forum.

[hdnik]

Congrats on the start up. I started my coupe today also. Your 33 is looking great. Nice job. The filter on the gas tank any idea of the cost?

Thanks for the encouraging words. Yes I'm full of p and v now. The the filter on the tank? That's from a Dodge Journey works like a charm. I didn't pay for it but my parts manager says about 80 canadian.

[hdnik]

Nick,

Glad you got it sorted out. I didn't know you were having a problems. I spend most of my time ( as do most ) on the FFcars.com forum.

Thanks Tim. Much appreciated. Funny while I was in my funk, I didn't want to come to the forums because watching all the progress was giving me guilt attacks. I need professional help eh? What a wacko i am!!

[In33anity]

Nick,
Glad to hear you are out of your funk. Next time you hit a wall -- and on these builds it's likely to happen to all of us over and over again, put that workstream on the side and turn to a completely different set of workstreams and different tasks. Keep chipping at the to do list and you'd be amazed when you come back to the problem a few days or weeks later how different it's likely to go when hitting it totally fresh and you're on a roll of other accomplishments. The thing about these projects is making progress. A zillion tasks. Each one that gets knocked off takes you one step closer to finished and there is no requirement that every task has to be done in the order of the manual or any other particular order for that matter.
Best of luck, project is looking good. -- I

[hdnik]

The best part of the new distributor ( you know other than it working) is that it's lower and allows me to use the cobra oval air cleaner.

[hdnik]

35800
35799
Due to the current political climate in the USA with the word "ISIS", Jay Harris was forced to re-brand "ISIS Power" under another name - Now InfinityBox LLC
(ISIS was an acronym for the product: Intelligent Silicon Integrated System.)

IMHO: This is a real shame, and a stroke of bad luck. As a business owner I'd be frustrated as hell by this but what can you do in that situation. In one regard I supposed you'd want to resit changing, but it would likely cost as much to keep the brand safe as it does to change it.

KUDOS to you Jay, for making this bold step. As a show of support for your brand (and for whats it's worth), I have tried to replace all reference to "ISIS Power" with "InfinityBox LLC" throughout my blog... http://lowntubd.blogspot.ca/

(Excerpt From The Chicago Tribune)
ISIS Power, an Elk Grove Village manufacturer of automotive electrical wiring systems, isn't a terrorist organization. That's what president and founder Jay Harris has been telling customers and the curious alike for months. But sharing a name with a militant Islamic group has proved bad for business recently, and the 5-year-old company re-branded itself last week as Infinitybox LLC (http://infinitybox.com/).... See the entire article here - "ISIS Power" Unplugs From Name (http://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-isis-power-rebranding-1108-biz-20141107-story.html)

[hdnik]

So we are back at it. With the new msd distributor and clean plugs she fired up and runs like a champ. In fact it has never run so well. Idle now solidly at about 800 rpm and VERY crisp throttle response.... Almost feels fuel injected. So here is a very strong recommendation from me IMHO...

If you are ever thinking about a new distributor and are considering a PowerFire.... Think again and spend the extra 100 an go with the MSD

Also found something out when checking the firing order... My engine is a 302 HO. I guess that was a bonus from my engine builder Norm Wilson at Fortins Engines. Is that good? I dunno... Gotta assume so.

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So now that this problem is resolved we move onto buttoning up the interior aluminum. First we need to bolt the seats down.

The he roadster style buckets were replaced with glide frames and those were torn apart and rebuilt to narrow them to about 17 inches wide to fit. Naturally the seat bolts only hit the chassis in one place so I bent up some flat bar to bolt to the frame for the seats to bolt to them. Simple L brackets that I will gusset for extra strength and paint.
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Next I saw somewhere in another thread a Napa filler hose neck to replace the one supplied for the revised stock tank as I have a boyd tank which uses the original higher filler location. The one I saw online was a NAPA 1047 but I was able to cross reference it to the Gates 24717. Perfect.

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[hdnik]

Another thing that needed to be resolved was the parking brake. Not a big fan of the set up from FFR but I saw the set up Bruce Lee came up with on the other site. He fabbed up an electric parking brake with a linear actuator and some springs.

Once I gathered up the parts it went pretty smooth. Would have bee a lot easier had i done thing before the floor went in, however I got some much needed relaxation laying on my back all day...lol

after shaving the plastic coating off the e brake cables I shortened them with a dremmel and used these cable shorteners I got from a Volkswagen dune buggy supplier. Then made some small mods to the clevis brackets to get the nut inside. This will allow some adjustment as the cables stretch over time.

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[amasciarelli21]

Hi Nick,
Parking brake set up looks good, I also wanted to go this route using the E Brake version but didn't think there would be enough room underneath the car.
Does that brand actuator apply the brakes slowly in case of an emergency as to prevent locking up the rear brakes?

[hdnik]

Hi Nick,
Parking brake set up looks good, I also wanted to go this route using the E Brake version but didn't think there would be enough room underneath the car.
Does that brand actuator apply the brakes slowly in case of an emergency as to prevent locking up the rear brakes?

it slower for sure, more for parking than emergency for sure. The spec is .4 of an inch per second. 6 inches total travel so about 15 seconds for full travel. It auto stops but I will apply power just long enough to bind rears on a hill or something. Other than that I doubt I will use it as mine is an automatic.

[amasciarelli21]

Thanks, it is a viable option I will check w state of NJ before making the modification, don't want to fail my inspection test.

Ang

[hdnik]

As part of my to do list before the body goes on, the wiring has to be buttoned up. With the amount of equipment in the trunk i felt it best to jump ahead in that area to get the InfinityBox modules in their final resting place. The Sound deadening material was Fatmat Ultra Mat butyl product under some of the FFR carpet. I will only carpet this area now and do the rest with the interior after body work.369393694036941369423694336944

[wallace18]

Looks like you are getting closer. Looking good!

[hdnik]

Made the change from the factory five horns which IMHO are cheap and sound like it. Went with Wolo 123.5 db electric air horn 419. No relay required with ISIS system. Sounds awesome.
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Hear at it here... http://wolo-mfg.com/media/wysiwyg/sound/replacement_horns/419.wav

[hdnik]

Making progress on on sound control. Opted for Fatmat Mega mat butyl. Easy to work with.

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[hdnik]

Today was a monumental moment in the build! I carted the hot rod. We finally got some weather up here and OMG what a great day! After a few adjustments the car fired right up (not having run in a few months) and ran like a champ. Not a hitch!! Drove it around the block and put it up on the lift for the very first time!

See the video here - http://youtu.be/GPqLb11bV4s


http://youtu.be/GPqLb11bV4s

[amasciarelli21]

Hi Nick, Congratulations on a great day.

Ang

[hdnik]

Hi Nick, Congratulations on a great day.

Ang

Thanks. It was a long time in the making... Only so many Sundays in a year lol

[wallace18]

Way to go! now lets get it going with the body on. LOL. You are doing a fine job, keep up the good work.

[H R Lucky]

congrats Nick, good job.

[chazwall]

Looking great, Nick !!!!! Can't wait to start my project.

[TigerBill]

Congratulations - Its a great feeling to get the car moving. A major milestone. Sounds great.

[hdnik]

Well I've started back at it. This should be the last winter. The goal is to get her on the road this summer. Last weekend I spent a day refamiliarizing myself with the status have ping carted it last April and bookmarking the project for the summer.

One major concern i had I had was finally string the TV cable (kick down) on the aod trains. That had to be done so I can start buttoning up the tunnel and wiring and interior to put body on.

This little job haunted me because before I parked it I could not get the required 35 psi in neutral. After doing some research at the lokar booth at Sema last week I found a simple cure for what my issue was. A simple 2 cent spring to keep the TV cable returned all the way. Seems the Lokar Spring is weak. So simple, not sure why I didn't think about it myself

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After that was installed it was just a matter of taking up the slack and putting the spacer in and checking to be sure I had 35 psi while in neutral, and 0 psi with the spacer removed.

Done.

[erlihemi]

Good to see you back at it Nick! I too had to divert tasks for the summer.

[Niagara Dave]

Way to Nick. Can't wait to see it.

[hdnik]

Finally another milestone. The body is on. All wiring tucked up and harnessed. Gosh I hope I didn't forget anything lol
A very helpful tip from Tony Zullo. To get body on and to spec as far as body opening dimension it was so simple.

Step rep one attach at firewall. Next get door sills mounted down and in all the way. Finally lift tail until you het the 45.5" dimension. Worked like a charm!

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[wallace18]

Finally another milestone. The body is on. All wiring tucked up and harnessed. Gosh I hope I didn't forget anything lol
A very helpful tip from Tony Zullo. To get body on and to spec as far as body opening dimension it was so simple.

Step rep one attach at firewall. Next get door sills mounted down and in all the way. Finally lift tail until you het the 45.5" dimension. Worked like a charm!

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Looks great Nick! Now you have to tell us what hint Tony gave you. You can't leave us hanging! LOL.

[erlihemi]

Congrats! Looks good Nick.

[Niagara Dave]

Looks good Nick

[hdnik]

After much procrastination I’m back at it with renewed enthusiasm. Goal is to have it in paint this summer.
follow the build at www.nicks33hotrod.com (http://www.nicks33hotrod.com)

Subscribe to-it for email updates or look here for latest post.

[AJT '33]

Hey Nick, don't give up bud! I'll be doing the same as you this winter, expect to have the complete car assembled by mid-January at the latest and then take off all the fiberglass body parts to have the final Polyurethane primer, base color, then clear completed by the end of January early february. Then going to let it all cure for a month, while that's happening will finish up all the wiring and hose clean up and tucking things in. Once done final assembly to get it registered ad plated so my wife and I can play all summer long! Ping me if you need any insights that I may have or received from others all over!:D
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26293-Black-amp-Copper-33-Hot-Rod-1028

[hdnik]

t's been a year and now I'm back at it. I am drawing the line in the sand this winter. Every weekend I hope to be in the garage tinkering and posting the goings on.

Click HERE (http://www.nicks33hotrod.com/p/body-and-structure.html) and scroll to the bottom of the page. You'll be looking for the November 11th - 18th, 2018 entry for the November updates.

The time off from the car, while unavoidable, has given me the break I needed from it. When you are doing this alone and only on weekends you tend to find any reason to do one of the 100's of other things on your to do list.

The time has probably created more work for myself, but what the hell.... its a hobby, and keeps me outta trouble!!

The new goal is to have it in paint by spring and on the road this summer. SO MUCH TO DO!

The latest 2 areas updated: the Body, Structure & Aluminum Panels (http://www.nicks33hotrod.com/p/body-and-structure.html) section as we begin to add some engine side cover venting and in the Rear End & Suspension (http://www.nicks33hotrod.com/p/rear-endsuspension.html) section completing the positioning of the rear end, new driveshaft, wheel and tires!

Be sure you scroll down on each page. Look for entries dated December 2018 at the bottom.

[JOP33]

Nick - Great to see you back at it, loved following your build...will definitely stay tuned!

[hdnik]

33 HotRod Update - LAST ENTRY OF 2018

See the rough in and installation of the engine side panel vents supplied by "Street Dreams by Ross"

Plus I finally got around to mounting the trunk lid hinges etc. See what I forgot to do. (What a dummy)

Both at the bottom of the "Body, Structure & Aluminum Panels" (http://www.nicks33hotrod.com/p/body-and-structure.html) section. Look for entry dated Dec 16-30, 2018

[wrp]

That really looks awesome

[hdnik]

Fitted the trunk lid but more importantly - THE RIMS AND TIRES HAVE ARRIVED and look awesome.

Foose Nitrous with Nitto Rubber

Front: 18 x 8 (ET +12 or 5" Backspace) with 245/40ZR18 (25.7" Tall)
Rear: 20 x 11 (ET +0 or 6" Backspace) with 305/35ZR20 (28.4" Tall)


https://youtu.be/HU2L9Eh_krA

[JOP33]

Nice setup Nick!

[JimLev]

Thanks for the link to Street Dreams, I've been looking for side vents for a while. Ross has the best that I've seen.
I'll be ordering them for my 33.

[sturigus83]

Nick very nice job look great I only hope mine comes out that good. I should have had mine by now but just before I got ready to order the kit my doctor told me I had stage three lung cancer so that stopped the build for awhile. I have one more week of chimo and I will be done so I have to waite about three months and be tested again and the doctor said that I should be fine. If that is the case I will be building mine by I hope by June this year. One thing about yours is your taking your time and thinking about things sometimes that can make you spend more money but your ride is very nice it is sweet. I am home alone so I don't have to worry about that other person. I see you ride to I have been riding all my life. I have a Low Rider and a FLH in my shop. Well Nick keep the rubber side down and the painted side up and you will be ok.

[hdnik]

Many thanks to you all for the kind words.

[hdnik]

Assembled but rough
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Taken apart again but prepping
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Goes to paint
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Painted
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Assembly
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Current Status of Assembly
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[wallace18]

Looking good Nick!:cool:

[JOP33]

Very nice!

[hdnik]

It's been a long time comin, but I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel.

[hdnik]

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Door on for the last time - Glass in - Poppers working and.... wait for it....
POWER WINDOWS WORKING
https://content.bombbomb.com/video_thumbs/dd3d0fd5-454a-8f29-7279-1f747dbdfc2b.gif (http://bbemaildelivery.com/bbext/?p=video_land&id=dd3d0fd5-454a-8f29-7279-1f747dbdfc2b)

[hdnik]

It's Official. The new 33 Hotrod Build Site has gone live. Visit www.nicks33hotrod.com (http://www.nicks33hotrod.com/?fbclid=IwAR02zpMeIpCgsz639gBgekADi1VnMAeT27GsQhEN J9XxrLhKOBxY31Af0IA) or www.nicks33hotrod.ca (http://www.nicks33hotrod.ca/?fbclid=IwAR2c1Kf-KDbuEP3N4YkW_RLyZu8XKID2LjXNtxsFR7aBakG7UcQvFL7Ocr 0) often! Subscribe to know when updates happen. Pics and videos throughout the site. Leave comments or start discussions... hell you can spell check for me! Enjoy!

[hdnik]

Come a long way this year finally - in the home stretch. Just fenders, boards lights etc to go.
https://nicks33hotrod.ca/updates/

[hdnik]

It's on the road - 10+ years in the making

https://youtu.be/f8DmjohWVQI