Trimming hood to fit

[skullandbones]

I mounted my hood on the MKIII finally. I now have a little bit of a dilemma. I probably should have trimmed the edges of the hood to fit the opening but was not sure if the hinge placement would accommodate since the hinge mounting holes are predrilled. So I mounted it and now am wondering if I should take material off at the front or the rear of the hood. The sides look good so there will be a little sanding to shape the edges but not much. Does anyone know from their experience if it is better to remove the material from the front or back? Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. WEK.:cool::cool:

[PaulW]

If the gap on the sides is good then I would take material off both the front and back. Taking material off only one end will require moving the hood forward (when taking all material off the front) or backward (when taking all material off the back) to create the proper gap at both ends. Doing this will change the gap on the sides as the hood is tapered. Moving the hood forward will tighten the gap and moving it backward will open up the side gaps.

Hope this helps.

[SCFFR]

Not sure what hinge system you are using but the FFR optional hood hinge kit allows for tons of adjustment. I did the same as you and trimmed the hood sides and front edge (since the front edge is narrower, easier to trim) and slowly slide the hood forward until all of the gaps were how I wanted them. I put two rivets in the hood hinge brackets as stated in the manual and taped the hood in place. I was able to connect the hinge arms from under the car without moving the hood. Just takes plenty of time.

Ron

[Jeff Kleiner]

What they said!

Jeff

[skullandbones]

I think what I'm hearing is to loosen the hinges (it is the FFR optional hinge set) since they have a lot of adjustability with vertical and horizontal slots. Then let the hood just lay in it's natural position on the body and start taking a little from front and back (equal amounts) if the side gap is good which I think it is. That way the hinges will be within their range of adjustment while still attached. I was worried about attaching them after the fact and finding they wouldn't have enough to allow for the bodywork. But it sounds like I'm going in the right direction. Let's see how that works. BTW, the hinges are hard to get access to which I think SCFFR mentioned. You need to be a contortionist to get to some of this stuff. I tapped the hood holes for the hinges and attached them first so I can remove them later but still can bond them as Jeff K suggested if that ever fails. It's just more tedious than I expected (do this before that or that won't work.......etc). Please continue commenting even if you want to share your "pain" on this task. I have just walked away a couple of times and reload and start again. WEK.

[SCFFR]

Yes, it definitely takes some long extensions and swivel sockets to tighten the nuts from below the car but it can certainly be done. I do have my car on jackstands at least 14" off the garage floor so have plenty of room to roll around on the creeper. For me it was the best way to get the hinge fasteners tightened without disturbing the fit of the hood.

Good luck............sounds like you are on the right plan.

Ron