Drive Shaft Loop

[racephotoman]

I did pick up the DS loop from Mike Forte....I did drill one 1/2" hole and see the rivnut(?) supplied basically won't go in, and then saw that I should use a 33/64" drill bit, of which I'm ordering from McMaster. But I still don't like the huge holes I'm cutting into the chassis...I was wondering if anyone has just drilled (using a 5/16" bit) and just tapped the smaller holes in the chassis to accommodate the 3/8" supplied bolts with the DS loop. I would find this must easier - any opinions on this avenue????

Walter

[Jacob McCrea]

Walter, I don't think it's ideal since you don't have much metal there for tapping threads. I wouldn't do it or suggest it, and I avoid using rivnuts if at all possible. In my opinion an eighth inch of thickness is pretty marginal thread depth for a 3/8" coarse thread bolt, particularly for the intended use: retaining a very heavy driveshaft spinning right next to your right hip. I think you will also have a hard time putting a sufficient amount of torque on the tapped threads without stripping them.

If you are bound and determined to do this, at least use Allen head bolts and drill/safety wire them, and also add some red loctite and/or lock washers. That's a lot of band-aids to get around using the rivnuts, but you don't want that loop to vibrate loose and fall off any more than you want the driveshaft to fall off. Bottom line: with an 1/8" of thread I think you will have a hell of a time getting enough torque on the bolts to retain them long-term, so plan on employing other measures, namely those mentioned above, to retain the bolts.

[edwardb]

No, the .120 wall thickness of the chassis tubes won't give enough threads. 2-3 turns max. Not enough for any purpose, let alone a safety related one like this. An alternative over the threaded inserts is welding it in place.

[Gloveman]

I did just what you are talking about. I cemented the loop in place and wire tied the bolts.

I will post a pic tomorrow when I get to the shop.

[Gumball]

Walter,

Although you're drilling eight big holes in the chassis, remember that you're filling those voids with metal - the rivnut and a bolt. Although I'm not an engineer, I would think that in the end, there's little or no difference in chassis integrity once the rivnuts and bolts are in place and torqued/loctited down.

[mike forte]

Hi,
If you do not like the Riv-nut then I would weld it in place. Welding is very permanent and strong. It just requires grinding to bare metal in the planned welded spots.

Mike Forte
Forte's Parts Connection
40 Pearl Street
Framingham, Mass. 01702
mikeforte302@gmail.com
508 875 0016
www.fortesparts.com
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[Gloveman]

1426214263

I don't think these bolts will work themselves loose, but if they do, I will put a tack weld on the loop where it meets the frame rail.

[skullandbones]

Hi Walter,

I am having a similar anx about the big holes but just the instalaltion in general. My concern besides getting the loop in exactly the right place is the discussions I've seen about revnuts. I think possibilities are endless but this website gives you a lot of alternatives besides the revnuts. I was thinking that one alternative might be the jack nuts. I have used them and they tend to be easier to install and grip to thin materials better with a little more surface contact than the revnuts. Unfortunately, there is still the big hole issue. Just thought I would throw that out there for your consideration.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w70.htm

Thanks,

WEK.

[Robert Phillips]

I welded mine, never have to worry about my welds breaking, guaranteed!