Things you wish you had before starting your build...

[artistwantab]

Hey everyone,

As the start of my build approaches I am curious about whether my shop has everything I need.

This isn't the first car I have built but it is the first kit car so I want to see if there was something you realized to late that you wish you had before the program even started.

On my wish list....Car Lift. I want one that can be used during repair and storage.

You guys have any brands you would recommend?

Some additional questions...

I am hoping someone has some plans for the custom dolly's that I see builders using to roll the body around?

How much of the body work can be done off the frame?

Thanks guys just like to get my ducks in order.

[fact5racer]

Spent time on a sofa with a mental health professional. ;)

[artistwantab]

Spent time on a sofa with a mental health professional. ;)

Nothing like prescription drugs :)

[LCD Gauges]

I wish that I had a suitable donor car before starting my build. Everything/anything can be purchased as you progress, so don't worry much about getting it all right now.

If I had to redo everything, I'd start with body work, and get it down to primer before moving onto the driveline/interior; it makes a hell of a mess!

My build has no real, "flow". It started as a used kit partially assembled, then moved to body work, now doing motor/transaxle. Next will be back to body work, and I'll need
to cover everything before putting the shell back on.

I've used/owned a few hoists in my time, and the best bang-for-buck was a used 2 post Hydra-lift. Good weight capacity, easy install, and ceiling clearance wasn't bad.

[artistwantab]

If I had to redo everything, I'd start with body work, and get it down to primer before moving onto the driveline/interior; it makes a hell of a mess!


Really! I was thinking it needed to be built it from the ground up. I wasn't sure if you could do the body without it being on the frame.

[LCD Gauges]

You can do most of the body work on the frame, no problem there. I'm just saying, I wish I had completed all of the body
work first, then moved onto the engine/transaxle install.

I'm basically going to clean-up three times, and have to wrap the entire cage, motor to keep the dust out.

[narkosys]

I am thinking of getting this (http://www.babco.ca/Automotive-Equipment-Products/BendPak-Two-Post-Lifts/BendPak-XPR10A) for a lift.

P

[artistwantab]

You can do most of the body work on the frame, no problem there. I'm just saying, I wish I had completed all of the body
work first, then moved onto the engine/transaxle install.

I'm basically going to clean-up three times, and have to wrap the entire cage, motor to keep the dust out.

I would prefer to do the bodywork off the frame so that is great. It also means that I can get started on the body right away.

[Martin]

I wish I had more money before I started. These things suck up money faster than I can earn it!

Martin





Hey everyone,

As the start of my build approaches I am curious about whether my shop has everything I need.

This isn't the first car I have built but it is the first kit car so I want to see if there was something you realized to late that you wish you had before the program even started.

On my wish list....Car Lift. I want one that can be used during repair and storage.

You guys have any brands you would recommend?

Some additional questions...

I am hoping someone has some plans for the custom dolly's that I see builders using to roll the body around?

How much of the body work can be done off the frame?

Thanks guys just like to get my ducks in order.

[carbon fiber]

if we're talking about a gtm, it's best to have the suspension on the chassis, set to ride height, and align the body to fit the wheels/tires. there is quite a bit of info on ffcars site about bodywork/alignment issues. you'll want to check for halo/rollcage clearance also.

[artistwantab]

if we're talking about a gtm, it's best to have the suspension on the chassis, set to ride height, and align the body to fit the wheels/tires. there is quite a bit of info on ffcars site about bodywork/alignment issues. you'll want to check for halo/rollcage clearance also.

Thank you! I see the issues posted here and other forum but wasn't sure how much was resolved with the new kit. I assumed the body would need to be lifted on and off the chassis at least a few times before final paint. I am just not sure how much could be done before the body is placed on the first time.

Thanks for the info.

[trublue]

I would have gotten a compressor and rivet gun.

[crash]

I wish I had more money before I started. These things suck up money faster than I can earn it!

Martin

Amen to that. Two to three times what you think or estimate is usually enough. :)

[GTMsomeday]

How about this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh6z5BW_meE

[crash]

How about this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh6z5BW_meE

I want one!

[carbon fiber]

where's the drink/beer holder?!

[The Stig]

The lift is definitely something that I wish I had in my garage. I've been keeping a eye out for a 4 post BendPak lift on eBay &/or craig's list. It would really help to get the car up in the air and be able to get underneath it for maintenance. GTM's are not easy to safely jack up to a level that you can get jack stands under them. You also have to be very careful when taking them back off the stands to get them back on the ground.

When you're done with building the car, you can also store one up and one below.

It would also be pretty cool to have some of CF's Carbon Fiber parts that he's creating for the GTM's interior. Door Panels, Dash, Console, etc.

Extra Money would have also been nice. I had what I thought was a fairly stout budget. Unexpected expenses (one in particular) blew that budget out 50% larger, and slowed my build considerably. It also took away most of my drive and motivation to get it finished. It'll get done, but I'll need to get through some anger and frustration in order to get back to the fun side of building this car. Maybe one day soon...

Oh yeah... A butt load of additional patience would have probably been nice... at least for me.

[kabacj]

I agree on the lift. Seems lots of people get them after the car is nearly done or done. I will get one in the spring.

I chose to customize lots of things and for that you need fabrication tools, but if you go by the book the only special tool would be a press. For me using old worn parts on a new car would be sad. That means replacing the suspension bushings and ball joints. Changing the ball joints would be a tough job without a press.

I refurbished many any of the old parts I used. A bead blaster is a great way to do that.

If you do your own bodywork you need those tools and a compressor.

If I could have more time that would be nice. I started my build 2 years ago with the plan to have it done in 8 months. IF I built it by the book and knew all the parts I needed I could have done it. When I do the second build, 8 months is very reasonable.

If you want to build it fast, make sure you have all the major parts: engine, transaxle, C5 parts on hand no later then a month after you get the kit.

As they say you can have it good, fast, or cheap. Pick any two.

John

[scottvette1989]

This is where I bought my lift, (9kbp) five or six years ago and have had no problems with it.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/2-Post-Lifts

[Kalstar]

Better expectations. It's been much longer than planned. I put an unrealistic (self imposed) time frame that made the build less enjoyable.

Now the big one!!!!! Do not prepay anyone. Do to the nature of my income I paid for the large items in advance, like paint. Since the money was paid and there was no "pot of gold" at the end of the job, it got pushed off again and again. I watched 4 large projects and countless insurance repairs come and go before mine. The problem, money was spent and now they needed to take out of their pockets to work on the car. Not only did it take 16 months from the time I dropped it off, there are some things I would have demanded be fixed before I paid, that I will now need to address later. It may very well have cost a relationship with a trusted painter/buddy as well. He is a great painter/bodyman and I would still recommend him, just would not prepay him. It was the single biggest mistake of this build. Live and learn I guess.

[Taz Rules]

Kalstar, that may just be the best advice of all.

Noted and heeded.

[tcoon]

You need some basic metal working tools...there is a lot of cutting and grinding for fitment. I use a 4" grinder from Harbor freight and also another one with a cutoff wheel. A pneumatic pop rivet tool is a lifesaver. Finally a set of electric sheet metal shears is great. I end up making a lot of small brackets for things like fuel pump mounting, fuel filter, coil, etc. It's good to have an easy way to trim/fashion aluminum, and these tools are fairly cheap.

[artistwantab]

How about this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh6z5BW_meE


This made me laugh so much. Omg that would be amazing.

[artistwantab]

This is awesome guys. I was away for the new years so just got back and checked in.

Well the good news is other than the lift, pneumatic pop rivet and press I have everything.

@The Stig

Any model better than another.

@Kalstar

I learned that the hard way also with home repair. After I paid them they left the job incomplete and all the garbage for me to clean up. NEVER EVEY AGAIN.

@scottvette1989

What model?

[The Stig]

Artistwantab,

I like the BendPak 4 post lifts. Since these cars are so light, the 7000 capacity would be plenty. If you might be lifting large trucks, you may want to consider a larger lift capacity.

Good luck.

[RumRunner]

Artistwantab,

Just my 2 cents on the lift. I have a BendPak XPR-10A. Simply outstanding. I know some folks like the 4-post lifts - I'm a 2-post guy. I feel it affords much better access to everything under the car, easy suspension/brake work, just can't say enough. Yesterday I had to remove my GTM doors for the first time in about a year. I was having trouble pulling the hinge pins out from the top, so I lifted the car and was able to use a rod from underneath and tap them out. On a four post lift the tracks that the wheels ride on would have been directly in the way ... with the 2-post, no problemo!

And when I reassemble, I may put the hinge pins in from the bottom with the nut on top - may be easier to remove later.

Best of luck!

-Michael

[crash]

Just my 2 cents, but I'm a no lift kind of guy.

I've worked on cars for about 30 years now. Many of those years professionally, and I have never used a lift. I feel the acces to the vehicle is much better without a lift. That said, once the vehicle is done and you are doing maintainance work, I can totally see the benefits of the lift. There is another reason I may own one one day, but it isn't a "normal" reason. That mechanized creeper though would be VERY helpful.

[KeithBoden]

A 2 post lift is great for taking apart the Corvette! It took 3 hours to unbolt and disconnect everything (not counting pulling the radiator, intake, and hood, which I did a few days before), to lift the body up off the entire drivetrain, and then to split it apart into 4 suspension corner piles, and get the engine on a stand. For $1500, I have used mine hard for a number of years without any problems. Mine is a Eagle Equp. MTP-9A (http://www.eagleequip.com/product/MTP-9A.html).

[The Stig]

Artistwantab,

Just my 2 cents on the lift. I have a BendPak XPR-10A. Simply outstanding. I know some folks like the 4-post lifts - I'm a 2-post guy.

You're right about the 2 post lift allowing you more access to lower side of the car. If I were using it strictly for maintenance, I'd probably go the same route.

The main reason I want the 4 post lift is that I plan to use it to store my Model-A Ford above the GTM so I can park my wife's car in the Garage again... With the 2 post lift, the weight of the car on top would be resting on the frame. The 4 post lift lets the weight of the car rest on the tires. So, for me it makes much more sense store the cars on the tires rather than the frame.

Mike

[Presto51]

Just my 2 cents, but I'm a no lift kind of guy.

I've worked on cars for about 30 years now. Many of those years professionally, and I have never used a lift. I feel the acces to the vehicle is much better without a lift. That said, once the vehicle is done and you are doing maintainance work, I can totally see the benefits of the lift. There is another reason I may own one one day, but it isn't a "normal" reason. That mechanized creeper though would be VERY helpful.

Crash remember your still young, you'll get past this, doing without a lift thing in a few more years:rolleyes:

[mendo]

With the 2 post lift, the weight of the car on top would be resting on the frame. The 4 post lift lets the weight of the car rest on the tires. So, for me it makes much more sense store the cars on the tires rather than the frame.

Mike

advatages both ways. if you store it on the 2 post, you are not flattening the tires on that spot, you are not leaving the springs compressed. will be fresh when you put it back on the ground. store it on the 4 post, you get to see what the car looks like at ride height from underneath. maybe, get both. you can store another car there too!!

[artistwantab]

Are you saying that there is no concern with the car falling on a two post?

That would my preference. Easier to work around and other.

[mendo]

Are you saying that there is no concern with the car falling on a two post?

That would my preference. Easier to work around and other.

they are pretty stable if you set the arms correctly. If I was concerned about it falling at all I would not step under it to work. they do leave lots of room to work underneath.

[carbon fiber]

i built a 2x4 and plywood dolly, 3 feet high, with locking casters to put my gtm on. it's easy to move by myself, and at a good height to work on during the build.

[artistwantab]

i built a 2x4 and plywood dolly, 3 feet high, with locking casters to put my gtm on. it's easy to move by myself, and at a good height to work on during the build.

Pics or Plans?

lifeschase@gmail.com if you can just send them here.

Thank you. I was looking for something like this.

[artistwantab]

they are pretty stable if you set the arms correctly. If I was concerned about it falling at all I would not step under it to work. they do leave lots of room to work underneath.

That's what I figured but wasn't sure if it was something like a jack. Most of the time that's all you need but a jack stand gives additional security.

One other question regarding a lift. How many of you actually put it together yourself or is this something you hire someone to install?

Thanks.

[KeithBoden]

I put together and installed my lift, the hardest part to do alone was standing the posts up. Then you measure a few times, drill 10 holes into the concrete for the anchors, and bolt down the posts. Just make sure your concrete meets the specs for the lift (thickness and reinforcement) or make sure it gets poured that way. Overall, I'd say it is an easy job. It is tougher to get used to using one, as you often forget in the beginning that you don't have to bend over or crawl, just take the time to push the button and move the car!

[artistwantab]

Just make sure your concrete meets the specs for the lift (thickness and reinforcement) or make sure it gets poured that way.

I rent the space. Is there a way of finding that info out?

[carbon fiber]

a pic of the dolly i built, first day after pickup at ffr. simple yet effective. stable enough to work inside the car while on the dolly. casters were $100 at lowes. (heavy duty/locking) maybe closer to 2 1/2' tall14358

[KeithBoden]

I rent the space. Is there a way of finding that info out?

The renter may know or have access to the specs for the building/floor. The manual for the MTP-9A says 4" minimum thickness, 3000 psi reinforced concrete.

[Roger Reid]

I rent the space. Is there a way of finding that info out?

If the lift is bolted to the floor it may be considered a permanent fixture. If the space is rented, the landlord may insist the lift stay when you move. You may loose ownership.

[artistwantab]

If the lift is bolted to the floor it may be considered a permanent fixture. If the space is rented, the landlord may insist the lift stay when you move. You may loose ownership.

No... he wants to keep out of everyone's business as long as rent is paid on time. I have upgraded the space a lot so I imagine it will be fine. Otherwise I will just removed it and sold it on craigslist before I tell him I am moving.

[artistwantab]

The renter may know or have access to the specs for the building/floor. The manual for the MTP-9A says 4" minimum thickness, 3000 psi reinforced concrete.
Every other business here has pallet racks and forklifts and other so I imagine its good. Better safe then sorry.

Would the city have this info? Would a contractor be able to tell or get this info?

[artistwantab]

a pic of the dolly i built, first day after pickup at ffr. simple yet effective. stable enough to work inside the car while on the dolly. casters were $100 at lowes. (heavy duty/locking) maybe closer to 2 1/2' tall14358

Fantastic. I will build one as soon as I have the measurement. Probably find that in the manual?

[carbon fiber]

i don't think there's anything in the manual about it, but it only takes an hour or so to build, and it just needs to be under the center part of the chassis. i also placed 2x4's on the top later, under the frame, to give some clearance between the rocker panels and the dolly. if you want i can get some measurements and post 'em.

[mendo]

If the lift is bolted to the floor it may be considered a permanent fixture. If the space is rented, the landlord may insist the lift stay when you move. You may loose ownership.

when you drill the holes for the anchors, make sure you go all the way through the concrete. that will verify the thickness. then use the correct length bolts so they are embedded in the slab. when you leave, take the lift and pound the anchors down flush. done.