Clutch pedal cable conversion!

[snakeboost]

Clutch pedal cable conversion!
************$150.00**************

Uses your pedal. Converts the Factory 5 supplied pedal form hydraulic to cable. Requires moving the adjuster over apx 2" from stock

Steve

14122

[snakeboost]

By the way those are Mike's Palmolive hands in the picture!

Steve

[Hazelwwp]

On the hot rod, at least, the standard clutch is already cable - not hydraulic. It is cantilevered off the end of the pedal box and seems to work well enough. Why change it? Has anyone experienced a problem?

[Blue MK3]

I'm with you, Hazel. Mystified, maybe? My MK3 has a cable and the current build manual for the MK4 indicates a cable. I'm not sure what snakeboost is trying to say. I think he speak with forked tongue. And yes, why change it?

[edwardb]

The Wilwood pedal box was originally designed for hydraulic clutch actuation, with a master cylinder directly actuated in line by the clutch pedal. FFR designed a mod to allow cable actuation off the end of the pedal. There were several reports of this mechanism breaking. I don't know the exact count, but it has been widely reported on this and the other forum in multiple threads. FFR recently shipped a reinforcement piece to all owners.

This clutch cable conversion from Forte's looks like it's directly in line with the clutch pedal, similar to the hydraulic master cylinder setup, eliminating the torque with the cantilever mod from FFR. This would also be the reason the adjuster hole in the foot box front wall would have to be moved over.

Note there was another issue, not to be confused with this one, with the original cast pedal arms from Wilwood breaking. Again, don't know the exact count. This was addressed by Wilwood by changing to a forged and much stronger pedal arm. The new arms have been out for quite a while and have been shipping as standard with kits also for quite a while.

[snakeboost]

^^^^^^^^^What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Steve

[Hazelwwp]

I can certainly see that keeping the load in line with the pedal rather than cantilevered of the end is a better design but I was not aware that there had been any problems with the FFR design. If this is a weak link, then it might make since to make the modification if you have not already installed the body. For the hot rod, I don't think you could make the mod without removing the body but since I am considering to do just that to add the air conditioning, I might consider making the modification while I'm at it.

[Jim Schenck]

Edward,

We have never heard any reports of that mechanism breaking, the only issue I have seen is the older cast pedals cracking at the top. No reports of any troubles since we switched to the forged pedals, and in order to eliminate the potential of a failure on the older pedals we provided those customers a support that removes the side loads on the top where they mount to the quadrant.

[edwardb]

Edward,

We have never heard any reports of that mechanism breaking, the only issue I have seen is the older cast pedals cracking at the top. No reports of any troubles since we switched to the forged pedals, and in order to eliminate the potential of a failure on the older pedals we provided those customers a support that removes the side loads on the top where they mount to the quadrant.

Hi Jim. Thanks for your clarification and I apologize for any misinformation. The response I provided was what I thought I understood from reading about this on both forums, not from personal experience. (I think there's a lesson in there).