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Made_In_America
12-10-2012, 06:12 PM
I posted this on FFcars and figured I would spread it out and post it here as well:

I know I would like to go with a new Coyote 5.0 vs an older mod motor even though I know them inside and out they are aging and the Coyote just seems like the better bang for buck. The question is should I go with a new or used Mustang coyote or a salvaged F150 Coyote? There isnt a ton of info on the subject but from what I could gather the difference comes down to lower compression on the F150 (10.5:1 VS 11:1), intake manifold, cams, and tuning. What peaks my interest is that I have found the F150 motors for around $2-2,500 complete vs 5-6K for the Mustangs. I have also noticed that you can pick up the stock Mustang cams, intake for cheap because of people going with the Boss 302 intake or bigger cams. So in theory here it looks like I could be close to the Mustang's coyote power/tq while saving a few grand in the process. Pleas e fill me in if I am mistaken here. Just trying to come up with my build plan.

ClemsonS197
12-10-2012, 10:53 PM
Some differences are ~50 less horsepower, ~1,000 less RPM redline, lower compression, and it looks like some of the hose connections are different. Also, not sure how different the engine harness is and if it would work with the Ford Racing controls pack. Also, is the block the same? How do the motor mounts line up?

This is a variable timing DOHC motor. You're going to spend quite a bit of money changing the cams out (unless you are very skilled). Boss 302 intake is another $600. With those two items are you really saving much? You'll still be driving a truck engine vs. a high revving sports car engine.

I found my Coyote donor in Mississippi out of a 2012 GT with 200 miles. It was $3,250 shipped with all accessories on car-part.com. Just keep searching and buy immediately if you find a deal. If you hesitate, it will be gone. I missed on a half dozen under $4,000 before I got wise and bought my motor the second I saw it.

Good luck.

timmy318
12-10-2012, 11:18 PM
Some differences are ~50 less horsepower, ~1,000 less RPM redline, lower compression, and it looks like some of the hose connections are different. Also, not sure how different the engine harness is and if it would work with the Ford Racing controls pack. Also, is the block the same? How do the motor mounts line up?

This is a variable timing DOHC motor. You're going to spend quite a bit of money changing the cams out (unless you are very skilled). Boss 302 intake is another $600. With those two items are you really saving much? You'll still be driving a truck engine vs. a high revving sports car engine.

I found my Coyote donor in Mississippi out of a 2012 GT with 200 miles. It was $3,250 shipped with all accessories on car-part.com. Just keep searching and buy immediately if you find a deal. If you hesitate, it will be gone. I missed on a half dozen under $4,000 before I got wise and bought my motor the second I saw it.

Good luck.

Listen to these wise words of wisdom!!!!

Made_In_America
12-11-2012, 06:31 PM
The blocks are the same and the engine I am looking at comes with all the wiring, ECU, Etc. $2,300 with 12K miles on it is a steal and I swap cams on 4V mod motors often and have went rounds with VVT as well. Actually the exhaust cams are the same and would only need a set of intake cams if that. I might leave them alone add the 302 manifold, exhaust manifold and dyno tune it. I have been looking for a Mustang Coyote engine for a while now and have yet to see one lower than 4K and that one was in a fire? Still looking but not hopeful. Anyway, just looking at the options.

ClemsonS197
12-11-2012, 07:50 PM
If the price is right, and you've got the skill set, go for it.

Some issues that you'll need to deal with off the top of my head are:

1 - The stock computer will likely be looking for more than 1 set of of O2 sensors. I believe the truck has them before and after the cats.
2 - The stock fuel system is returnless. Not sure how the computer will react or how hard it would be to use the OEM fuel pump from the F-150.
3 - You'll want the gas pedal too. It's drive-by-wire and your harness will have a plug for it.

Also, the stock exhaust manifolds from a crate motor/mustang are gigantic and don't fit in the kit. Not sure if FFR has a Coupe header yet, but save your money and skip the Ford pieces.

If you use an F-150 motor, make a good build thread. I'd be very interested in seeing your progress. Someone has to be first.

Good luck.

Made_In_America
12-12-2012, 02:03 AM
Thanks, I'm not shy of pioneering things. I was one of the first to plunge into swapping a 3V 4.6 into my 99 and made a lengthy guide for people back then. I still might use a Mustang motor if I can find one for a reasonable price but until I come back to the states this summer this is just a rough build/finance plan.

ClemsonS197
01-04-2013, 12:55 PM
If you're still around, there is a guy on the FFCars modular section installed an F-150 motor in an E36 BMW. He's got it installed and is working through getting it started. I talked to him on the phone, and he mentioned the F-150 harness is identical to the crate motor. If he can get it running, it would be a nice alternative to a crate/Mustang motor.

tcoon
01-04-2013, 04:00 PM
I am midway through installing a coyote in my competition coupe. Check out the thread in 65 coupe area for details. I think you could go with the f150 motor but should use the FRPP control pack which eliminates the computer issues fom the equation, adds the drive by wire throttle, etc. The control pack is already designed to be free standing. My understanding is that if you use the stock computer without body harness, sensors, etc you will get a no start situation that is difficult to troubleshoot.

ClemsonS197
01-05-2013, 10:41 PM
I think you could go with the f150 motor but should use the FRPP control pack which eliminates the computer issues fom the equation, adds the drive by wire throttle, etc. The control pack is already designed to be free standing. My understanding is that if you use the stock computer without body harness, sensors, etc you will get a no start situation that is difficult to troubleshoot.

Sorry, I should have said engine harness. It's the engine harness that is identical to the crate motor.