Mk4 #7750 Build Progress Update

[edwardb]

In early September of this year, I purchased Mk4 #7750 from GT-Tom in NH. He picked it up at FFR earlier this year, and installed suspension parts but not too much more. I'm not planning to do a full build thread (I'm just too slow) but thought I would post some progress to date.

The build plan includes decisions that were already made by Tom -- 17 inch FFR wheels, Wilwood brakes and pedal box, FFR spindles, Levy 5-link rear suspension, 3.73 diff, hydroboost, Ron Francis wiring, black powder coat chassis.

While I'm still finalizing, balance of build plan includes 347 stroker (probably), Levy Racing T-5 (again, probably), Mustang tank, mechanical fuel pump, AFCO radiator and Breeze shroud, Freddie's power steering also powering the hydroboost brakes, no heat or AC just heated seats, competition dash layout, Alex's glove box and dash vinyl, Breeze front battery mount (if I can get it to play nice with the electric PS pump), GAS-N side pipes, Breeze roll bar, chrome QJ's, hydraulic actuated clutch, mechanical throttle linkage, Russ Thompson turn signal, and expanded PS footbox. That's enough detail for now. The car will be similar to my Mk3, e.g. only driven for street and general cruising.

Color is still not decided, and at the speed I build, won't have to decide for awhile. But I did decide to do a black "theme" for the rest of the chassis, including all the aluminum. Had about 25 pieces powder coated gloss black in the first group, and most are installed. Will do the rest after they're fitted.

First business was to build a body buck to fit over the chassis. The new profile on the other forum for the Mk4 fit the back perfectly. You can see #5125 Mk3 still in the garage. I had planned to put it in storage for the winter by now, but we keep having these nice weather days, even in November. Supposed to be in the 60's tomorrow. I just don't have the heart to put it away.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1854.jpg

Looks like this as of this morning:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1855.jpg

Front suspension. In preparation for power steering and increased caster, I replaced the UCA front linkage tubes with AFCO 5 inch tubes from Summit. In the process, found the supplied rear tubes were either cross-threaded or galled, so I replaced those with AFCO 4 inch tubes after chasing the threads. Had to buy 5/8"-18 RH and LH dies.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1856.jpg

Breeze 3-turn Unisteer PS rack, with FFR rack extenders, Breeze extended boots, Moog tie rod ends, and Breeze offset bushings:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1857.jpg

[edwardb]

This is a close-up of the fairly new FFR spindles. Hope they're as good as promised. So far I'm impressed. At full suspension droop, the wheels toe in just slightly. The SN-95's in my Mk3 in this position are turned in a bunch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1872.jpg

Already installed 7/16 couplers for the rear Q-J's. Hopefully will keep from having to drop the tank after installed:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1864.jpg

Wilwood pedal box set up with master cylinder for clutch actuation. Also can see the hydroboost setup (Forte's). Leaving the top and side pieces of the footbox off for now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1877.jpg

Finished installing the Russ Thompson turn signal and steering column this morning. (Yes I know I have to take the wheel and turn signal off to install the dash):

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1878.jpg

Pedal set-up so far. Forte's AC style pedals for Wilwood. Nice pieces. Will install dead pedal when final positions are determined:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1879.jpg

Expanded PS footbox. Used the patterns found on the other forum and my cheap little HF brake. Worked out pretty well. Literally twice as wide at the back as the standard PS footbox in my Mk3. My wife is happy. I'm committed to a small block now.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1868.jpg

[edwardb]

Cockpit so far. .090 firewall from FFMetals. Also used their PS F-panel piece (no radiator hose hole) and front DS footbox piece (no holes). Just starting to fit floor and back wall pieces:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1867.jpg

Rear suspension and rear Wilwood brakes. Pretty normal.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1863.jpg

Levy 5-link as installed by Tom. It's a beautiful thing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1866.jpg

Thought I would throw this in. Bought this Campbell Hausfeld air riveter at our local tool store. It works fantastic. BTW, using black and natural color Ultimate rivets from Summit. I really like how they work.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1873.jpg

[WIS89]

Edward-

Some really terrific progress. I must say that I really like the contrast between the powder coated black aluminum and red suspension parts... Very cool!

Keep us updated if you like. It looks like its going to be a nice build. Best of luck!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Regards,
Steve

[riptide motorsport]

Very nice!!1

[Racer 28]

Looking good, Love the Black panels.

[jlfernan]

Looks good! Love the rear end.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2561/jorgec.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)

[edwardb]

Might as well turn this thread into a build log, even though I may not update too frequently since I’m a pretty slow builder. Since the last update, sorted out the fuel tank, radiator mounting, and e-brake. Also cut and installed the radiator fan shroud. Also spent a lot of time researching and ordering my engine.

But the last few weeks I’ve been focused on fuel and brake lines. Kind of the usual scope creep, at least for me… I wanted to use stainless lines. After reading all the horror stories and trying my cheap little flaring tool, ordered and received the Eastwood vise mounted flaring tool. Great decision, more later. Also upgraded my tube bending tools with a couple new items. Then once I started working on installation, decided I didn’t really want to use the little padded clamps, so got several different clip types as seen in the pictures. All the clips are installed with 10-32 screws, either with tapped threads in the main chassis tubes or rivnuts.

This was my first time doing an all-up installation. On my Mk3, most of the lines were already run by the original builder. I just had to make a few for the PB install. So I was definitely learning as I went here, and practiced a lot on the supplied steel tubing from FFR. Most of the pieces I got just the way I wanted, and then duplicated in the stainless. This was slow, but worked OK.

Couple of design objectives. Determined early on I wanted to use 3/8 fuel line. The build is a mechanical fuel pump and carb, so no return line required. Also wanted to keep the area just in front of the MC (rear part of the DS F panel) as open as possible because my PS reservoir and hoses will fill that area. I’m very fortunate to live about 15 miles from Inline Tube, so bought the lines, tube nuts, tees and some of the clips from them. By picking up in person, I was able to fit the tubing in our SUV with minimal bending.

What worked:
- The flare tool from Eastwood is amazing. Absolutely perfect flares every single time. Totally takes the stress from that aspect. I had one bad flare through the entire time, and it was my fault. I didn’t have the tube in the die flush to the front, so the folded over double flare portion was only about half the normal width. Cut it off and made another.
- The stainless tubing from Inline is a little harder to work with than the plain steel (as supplied by FFR) but not too bad. Most bends were with tubing benders. I did make a couple of the larger bends around 2 and 3 inch sanding drums in my bench vise, and that worked OK too.

What didn’t work:
- I had originally planned for the 3/8 fuel line and the front to rear brake line would be one piece. What was I thinking??? Even if I could bend perfectly, couldn’t have fit into the chassis with bends on both ends. I ended up with a union for the fuel line by the rear DS wheel, and a union for the brake line by the front DS wheel.
- The pinch type brake line forming tool was basically not useable. At least for me. I don’t know if it was the stainless lines or just my technique, but it just didn’t work well. I barely used it.
- I muscled through the 3/8 tubing bends, but it was about all my office hardened muscles could manage. Next time I will try to find a bender with longer handles.

Following posts with pictures.

[edwardb]

DS front showing hook-ups to MC and front tee:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1915.jpg

Closer picture of the MC. CNC reservoirs are only in their approximate position. Just need to make sure I kept some clearance.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1916.jpg

Front cross-over. This location worked really well.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1918.jpg

Fuel hook-up at engine compartment. Also can see the rear brake line.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1919.jpg

Union for front to rear brake line.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1920.jpg

Fuel and brake line going to back. Used double clips from Inline. Perfect.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1922.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1923.jpg

[edwardb]

One more of lines on 4 inch chassis tube, at rear:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1925.jpg

DS rear corner, including union for fuel line:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1926.jpg

Fuel line end at tank location:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1928.jpg

Routing and mounting location for e-brake cables.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1929.jpg

PS rear:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1930.jpg

PS front:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_1932.jpg

[CraigS]

Progress is looking great. I noticed your comment about being commited to a small block. Just wanted to remind you a small block CAN be 427 cid!!!

[edwardb]

Progress is looking great. I noticed your comment about being committed to a small block. Just wanted to remind you a small block CAN be 427 cid!!!

Thanks for the compliment. My engine choice is done. Deposit made on a DART based 347 stroker.

[Scott Zackowski]

edwardb,

Great work and great pictures!

I have a few questions about working with Stainless line.

I have been struggling with getting double flares in my 3/8 inch SS Fuel line. I bought 3/8 inch Stainless line (20 ft coil) from Summit just to experiment with bending and flaring. Eventually I am planing on using straight line from Inline Tube or Classic Tube and bending it my self. Currently, I am using Eastwood's Flaring Tool #25304. The one that is vise mounted with rotating dies and 12 inch handle. I am having trouble with the 3/8 tube slipping in the die and ending up with only single flares. The tool works better with metal small caliber brake lines. I have taken a look at Inline Tubes web site and technical suggestion for flaring Stainless tube and have tried filing a 45 degree edge on the outside and chamfering the inside end of the tube. Still no consistent success!

What Eastwood tool are you using?
Any trade secrets or hints on double flaring Stainless Steel (SS) line?
Is it possible with Inline Tube being annealed that it flares easier? I think Summits brand is the same. It is 304 Stainless.
It looks like you used Stainless fittings on the brake and fuel lines (mostly)?

Any and all suggestions welcome!
I really want to use Stainless lines for both fuel and brake lines.

Additional Info:
My master plan is to fabricate 3/8 inch SS fuel line from my fuel pre-filter to Electric Fuel Pump (located in PS rear wheel well area) and then single piece of line running from the Fuel Pump to engine compartment, down the outside of the PS round 4 inch tube. Doing a carbureted electric fuel pump set up (no fuel return line required).
MK4 Roadster #7304. Start: 1/2011 (taking longer than expected but enjoying every minute). Complete Kit, Ford Racing Small Block 427 (351W Boss with X heads).

[edwardb]

All the flares for the work I posted here were done with Eastwood's Flaring Tool #25304, same as you mentioned. I noticed the tube would slip in the die too unless you really clamp it down. I used the following process: Set the lower half of the split die into the tool. Then lay the tubing in place with the end sticking out a little. Then set the upper half of the split die in place. Then rotate the clamping assembly over and latch, the lightly tighten the screw. Then use the flat die from the turret to press the line flush with the upper and lower dies and push everything to the back of the fixture. Then really tighten the screw. I mean really tight. It shouldn't move. Then use the two-step process to make the flares. When you pull the handle to make the flares, go until it stops, but don't overdue it. With this or any other flaring tool it's possible to crack the tubing if you apply too much pressure. Couple other hints. Use a cut-off wheel (I used a Dremel) or a hack saw. Don't use a tubing cutter as it can work harden the stainless. Make sure the cut-off is dead square. I trued mine up by just touching on a disk sander being very careful to not overheat. Put a slight chamfer on the outside of the tube. I usually did this by lightly spinning against the 1 inch belt sander portion of the sander. For big pieces where this wasn't possible, just used a file. Doesn't have to be extreme. Then ream the inside of the hole with a deburring tool, knife, whatever. Finally, make sure to put a little oil on the turret dies before pressing in to make the flare. I found this made a big difference. I too experimented and practiced quite a bit. Like I said in the write-up, once I officially started, I had one bad flare the entire time, and it was my fault because I didn't position the tubing in the split dies correctly.

Yes all my materials and parts were from Inline Tube, including the stainless tube nuts. When I talked to them, they assured me their stainless was almost the same for bending and flaring as regular steel. They say the same thing on their website. I practiced quite a bit with the regular steel brake lines from FFR. I have to say they were a bit softer to bend and flare than the stainless brake lines, but not that much.

Tonight I quickly snapped a couple pictures of a practice piece of 3/8 stainless fuel line. You can see the double flare portion is perfect, and the overall shape is perfect. The dies put a little bit of a texture on the stainless when it's clamped in. You can barely see it normally. The flash makes it look much more pronounced than it really is.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1934.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1935.jpg


edwardb,

Great work and great pictures!

I have a few questions about working with Stainless line.

I have been struggling with getting double flares in my 3/8 inch SS Fuel line. I bought 3/8 inch Stainless line (20 ft coil) from Summit just to experiment with bending and flaring. Eventually I am planing on using straight line from Inline Tube or Classic Tube and bending it my self. Currently, I am using Eastwood's Flaring Tool #25304. The one that is vise mounted with rotating dies and 12 inch handle. I am having trouble with the 3/8 tube slipping in the die and ending up with only single flares. The tool works better with metal small caliber brake lines. I have taken a look at Inline Tubes web site and technical suggestion for flaring Stainless tube and have tried filing a 45 degree edge on the outside and chamfering the inside end of the tube. Still no consistent success!

What Eastwood tool are you using?
Any trade secrets or hints on double flaring Stainless Steel (SS) line?
Is it possible with Inline Tube being annealed that it flares easier? I think Summits brand is the same. It is 304 Stainless.
It looks like you used Stainless fittings on the brake and fuel lines (mostly)?

Any and all suggestions welcome!
I really want to use Stainless lines for both fuel and brake lines.

Additional Info:
My master plan is to fabricate 3/8 inch SS fuel line from my fuel pre-filter to Electric Fuel Pump (located in PS rear wheel well area) and then single piece of line running from the Fuel Pump to engine compartment, down the outside of the PS round 4 inch tube. Doing a carbureted electric fuel pump set up (no fuel return line required).
MK4 Roadster #7304. Start: 1/2011 (taking longer than expected but enjoying every minute). Complete Kit, Ford Racing Small Block 427 (351W Boss with X heads).

[Scott Zackowski]

Thanks for the info!

I was only able to get one decent flare with my technique. However, I was using a tube cutter, was fear full of cracking the die by over tightening the C-clamp, and was applying WD-40 to the end of the tube. I hadn't figured on the "Heat Effect" making the Stainless harder.

I will head back to the Workbench and give your technique a go. Since we are using the same Eastwood Tool success should be obtainable.


Thanks for the help!

[edwardb]

Thanks for the info!

I was only able to get one decent flare with my technique. However, I was using a tube cutter, was fear full of cracking the die by over tightening the C-clamp, and was applying WD-40 to the end of the tube. I hadn't figured on the "Heat Effect" making the Stainless harder.

I will head back to the Workbench and give your technique a go. Since we are using the same Eastwood Tool success should be obtainable.

Thanks for the help!

I really don't think you can crack the die with the clamp. The threads aren't that big. I tighten it about as much as I can. If you aren't seeing at least a little bit of marking from the die I doubt you are getting it tight enough. The first couple I practiced with slipped as well, until I muscled up a little. And definitely use something beside WD-40. I used some air tool oil because it happened to be there at my bench. I've seen instructions suggesting using brake fluid. That's probably not a bad idea either. But something with more body than WD-40.

[Scott Zackowski]

Thanks,

I haven't had a chance to try your suggestions out, but its gives me hope.

I will let you know how it goes.


SWZ

[edwardb]

I've been updating this build thread over on the other forum, but not here. I'll catch this thread up and try to remember to update both. I know some folks don't visit both forums.

Update: All done. Mostly just cut & paste, with a couple edits because of the seven picture per post limit in this forum. Enjoy!

[edwardb]

It's been some weeks since I've posted any progress pics. Having to work for a living, multiple business trips, etc. sure get in the way of my build. Last night I finished up the last of the aluminum panel fitting, drilling, etc. Early in this thread I posted pictures of the completed foot boxes, firewall, F-panels, etc. Now I've been finishing up the cockpit floor, back wall and trunk pieces.

I did two mods in the trunk area. First, made some filler panels for the inside of the upper trunk area. I guess some of the earlier Mk4's had something like this, but none since. I wanted the cleaner look of the filler, plus will be easier to carpet. Second, I tried to use some of the wasted space above the fuel tank. I looked at mods some guys have done (some great ones out there) plus the Dark Water Custom option, but decided to keep it real simple and also didn't want to change any of the existing FFR framework. (I don't weld...). So made this triangular bin that drops into the DS of the trunk. Not planning a lid or anything else. Will be handy to put tools and other small stuff. If you haven't compared the trunks side-by-side between a Mk3 and Mk4, you don't realize how much smaller the Mk4 trunk is. The lower more authentic body shape is nice, but the space has to come from somewhere.

Note that I permanently attached the fuel tank access panels. Simple build here with mechanical pump at the engine. I plan to insulate and carpet the trunk, and really didn't want to mess with keeping these accessible. For the very infrequent time I would need to service something on the top of the tank, I will just drop from the bottom. Not everyone will agree with that choice, but that's what I decided to do.

Tonight everything comes out and sent for powder coating. This weekend I'm planning to tear down the 3.73 diff and replace with 3.27. Another first time adventure.

Here some pictures of the trunk area all mocked up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004042013/IMG_2043_zpsd3a7157e.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004042013/IMG_2040_zpsea4bfac3.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004042013/IMG_2041_zps98f1ff96.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004042013/IMG_2042_zps1b6eed01.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004042013/IMG_2039_zpsb2610692.jpg

Here are the rest of the parts all ready to take to powder coating. I'm doing the fuel tank as well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004042013/IMG_2047_zps88510309.jpg

[edwardb]

When I bought the Mk4, it already had a 3.73 solid axle installed. After a lot of studying and forum searching, determined that 3.27 would be much better for my engine/trans combination. Even though I've never done this before, decided to try to do the gear swap myself, and leave the axle in the chassis. With the help of forum member PhoneGuy (Thanks Bob!!!) last Saturday we took everything apart. Confirmed once inside that everything was new, as expected. This meant I didn't have to take the carrier and clutch packs apart. Also confirmed it had Ford parts, so (hopefully) this meant I could re-use the existing shims with the new Ford Racing 3.27 gears. We installed the new ring gear. I didn't have any way to remove the inner pinion bearing, so took to a local shop and for $10 they removed the shim and bearing from the old pinion and pressed on the new one. Put everything back together with a new pinion seal, crush sleeve, and pinion nut. Pinion preload, backlash, and gear mesh pattern all looked good and were within spec. It's all buttoned up and back together. Waiting a couple of days to let the Permatex RTV set up, and will re-fill with Red Line synthetic lube. Interesting and somewhat challenging project. Glad it's done.

Pictures of the adventure:

Old gears:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2059_zpsca3411b9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2059_zpsca3411b9.jpg.html)

Empty housing:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2065_zpscb65ff71.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2065_zpscb65ff71.jpg.html)

Carrier, ring gear and pinions:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2060_zps15205b81.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2060_zps15205b81.jpg.html)

Rear cover cleaned up and ready to go back on:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2063_zps389b82a2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2063_zps389b82a2.jpg.html)

Checking pinion bearing preload:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2069_zps194ab495.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2069_zps194ab495.jpg.html)

Checking gear backlash:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2068_zps7afe5572.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2068_zps7afe5572.jpg.html)

Sealed up, and 5-link back in place:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2074_zps8a827f9e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004122013/IMG_2074_zps8a827f9e.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

It's been a couple of weeks. Time for another update. Not huge progress since the last time, but plodding along. I have all the remaining pieces back from powder coat. Started finalizing the trunk area first. Then will do the remainder of the cockpit. It's nearly impossible to put the rivets in some of the trunk floor with the back cockpit wall in. The black powder coat is very cool in person. But sure doesn't take very good pictures. At least with my camera.

First though, I mounted the fan on the Breeze shroud, then to the FFR Afco radiator, and then mounted the assembly in the chassis. Wrapped some neoprene around the upper mounts before mounting to give it a little bit of vibration resistance.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2089_zps460f6447.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2089_zps460f6447.jpg.html)

Used the Breeze lower radiator mount. Slick setup.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2092_zpsf4b717cc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2092_zpsf4b717cc.jpg.html)

I mounted a small cooler on the side of the shroud. Will use this for the PS/PB circuit. Maybe not needed for how I'll use the car, but it was a simple add.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2091_zpsbc6c0479.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2091_zpsbc6c0479.jpg.html)

Put some of the trunk pieces in permanently, but then decided to install the rear wiring harness and check the gas tank fit before the last floor piece is installed. I dieted out the fuel pump hookup (mechanical pump at the engine) and shortened the tank sending harness so there's not so much wire flopping around back there. Also added a wire in the loom for a trunk courtesy light.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2094_zps71d8b9c7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2094_zps71d8b9c7.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2096_zpsc7b1e569.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005012013/IMG_2096_zpsc7b1e569.jpg.html)

You can see my shiny new Nitto tires in a couple of these pictures. Now ready to finalize the trunk aluminum, and then the cockpit aluminum. Next steps will be insulation and wiring. My short block is supposed to be done this month. So if that is delivered, will be easy to get distracted to some engine building.

Still having fun!

[edwardb]

Haven't posted for a while, but making quite a bit of progress. Aluminum panels, gas tank, front battery mount, etc. But today I picked up my short block, so have to post a quick picture and explanation. Last year when I bought 7750, decided I wanted to do a 347 stroker. Ended up doing a DART SHP based 347 through FordStrokers in the Chicago area. Today I drove over and back and picked it up. Details: Dart SHP 4 Bolt Main Block, Scat forged crank and H beam rods, Wiseco forged pistons, COMP Cams hydraulic roller custom billet cam, and Moroso pan. Picture is exactly how it looks after pickup. I'll be adding AFR 185 heads, COMP Cams lifters and rockers, Edelbrock AirGap intake, Quick Fuel SS-750 double pumper carb, and MSD ignition. Will have a Quick Time bell housing and TKO600 trans. Should be a very strong and bullet proof setup.

Picture's a little cluttered, but I'm too tired to arrange a nice pose.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2100_zps917dd8f0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2100_zps917dd8f0.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Here are some updates since the last time I posted.

Installed the Breeze engine compartment battery mounting kit and Optima battery. Went in exactly per Mark’s instructions. Can’t see too much here, but I had the box and mounting brackets powder coated.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2114_zps764caa5f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2114_zps764caa5f.jpg.html)

Finished installing all the aluminum panels. Only thing left are the pieces installed after the body is on. Unfortunately, most of the nice shiny black powder coating seen here will be covered with insulation and carpet. But the undersides are also done, so all good. My powder coater quoted the same price (quite reasonable I think) for both sides vs. selected sides, so that’s what we did.

Trunk area:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2115_zps1e3e5272.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2115_zps1e3e5272.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2116_zps9ad6cfe8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2116_zps9ad6cfe8.jpg.html)

Cockpit area:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2119_zps377a9366.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2119_zps377a9366.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2120_zps78f9dbb9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2120_zps78f9dbb9.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Installed the fuel tank. Also had that powder coated. It’s a brand new tank. Didn’t use the plastic cover. This is exactly the same setup I used on my Mk3. Looks clean and no issues. Not planning any off-road action, so feel perfectly safe without the cover.

Note I installed the rear wiring harness before final installation of the cockpit panels, trunk panels and tank. I have the loose ends temporarily tie wrapped to the rear quick jack mounts to get out of the way and keep from dangling.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2121_zpsa82be246.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2121_zpsa82be246.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2122_zps3ef860cd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2122_zps3ef860cd.jpg.html)

This is my fuel line hook-up. Breeze 3/8 inch SS pickup, Swagelok connector, -6AN hose to 3/8 SS hard line up to the engine compartment.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2124_zps575795e8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2124_zps575795e8.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

This is another idea I copied from my Mk3 build. Most indoor shows require a locking gas cap. I couldn't find a locking cap that I really liked to fit the supplied LeMans cap. (I know, I’m picky.) The locking cap from Breeze is a beautiful piece. So I cut the inlet tube off the LeMans cap, enlarged the hole in the bottom and machined the flange off the inside. The locking cap with inlet tube drops right in like it was made for it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2127_zpscc459a54.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2127_zpscc459a54.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2128_zps034fa328.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2128_zps034fa328.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2129_zps71fe3df9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006052013/IMG_2129_zps71fe3df9.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finally, here are a few more pictures of the DART 347 short block picked up last week from FordStrokers. Will be starting some work on that now too. Can’t resist. Started with the ARP 1/2 inch cylinder head studs. First step will be to check piston to valve clearance.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2125_zps2a587ff4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2125_zps2a587ff4.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2111_zpsa0655065.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2111_zpsa0655065.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2110_zps2ed7860f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2110_zps2ed7860f.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2112_zps4887e66b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2112_zps4887e66b.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Time for another update. Took a few days off around the 4th holiday, and reached a couple of major milestones. Finished applying Lizard Skin coating and put it down on the wheels for the first time. Starting to look like something now. I'm going to do a separate "how to" thread on the Lizard Skin application, giving my observations of how it applies, what I learned, etc. I'll just post pictures and captions here in my build thread.

Update: Separate thread done and located here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/342954-lizard-skin-application-experience.html

First sealed all the gaps and openings in the aluminum panels (around seat belt mountings, roll bar stubs, foot boxes along the 4 inch tube, etc.) with aluminum tape and seam sealer. Then roughed up all the surfaces where the Lizard Skin is applied. A little hard to take a DA to my nice powder coat, but there's still plenty showing elsewhere.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2151_zpscd41b42a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2151_zpscd41b42a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2152_zps7e4a6a20.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2152_zps7e4a6a20.jpg.html)

Then started the masking. Took almost a day to mask everything. Would have been a little easier if I hadn't already installed the pedal box, but that's OK. Worked out.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2157_zpsffe63f0d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2157_zpsffe63f0d.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2154_zps91cb9f76.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2154_zps91cb9f76.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2155_zps4c02b303.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2155_zps4c02b303.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2159_zps893caeac.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2159_zps893caeac.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2158_zps87d288db.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2158_zps87d288db.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

The sound control (SC) product is always applied first. I sprayed the complete cockpit and trunk areas. Then applied the ceramic insulation (CI) product only in the cockpit. Took nearly 2 gallons of each product. That's about the recommended coverage for the SC product. I went a little heavy on the CI product, especially in the foot boxes since that's where it's needed the most. So used a little more than normal.

This is how everything looked when finished and unmasked. I'm really happy and pleasantly surprised with how it turned out. Even though it will all get covered up with carpet. Note I have three pieces that I sprayed separately and aren't installed yet -- the trans tunnel cover, and DS footbox side and top.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2162_zps6fabb95e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2162_zps6fabb95e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2163_zpsd49fe865.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2163_zpsd49fe865.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2164_zpsdc4dd182.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2164_zpsdc4dd182.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2165_zps027d067a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2165_zps027d067a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2166_zps8a8d9e11.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2166_zps8a8d9e11.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finally, dropped it off the jack stands for the first time. Did a real fast adjustment on the coilovers so it sat reasonably straight. Then rolled it out onto the driveway for the first time. The nice bright sun helped the Lizard Skin to cure a little faster. Plus it just looks right down low instead of sitting up in the air on stands.

I'm going to take a bit of a break from the chassis and start assembling the engine. I had a little bit of drama and a "learning experience" with the engine build already. Details in the next update.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2160_zpsffd022c7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2160_zpsffd022c7.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2161_zpse0b982f6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062013/IMG_2161_zpse0b982f6.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Well I still have a ways to go, but thought I would post progress to date with my engine build. Just to refresh memories, bought a 347 Dart based short block with pan from FordStrokers. Looks like this after delivery:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2108_zpsdd0e2c94.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2108_zpsdd0e2c94.jpg.html)

Highlights are Dart SHP block, Scat forged crank and rods, Wiseco forged pistons, Comp Cam custom billet cam, Moroso pan, all ARP hardware. All the good stuff. I’m adding AFR 185 heads, full roller hydraulic Comp cam lifters and rockers, Edelbrock Air Gap intake, Quick Fuel SS-750 DP carb, MSD ignition, Edelbrock water pump, March pulleys, Quick Time bell housing, Ford Racing billet flywheel, and TKO600 trans. Only detail not decided is the clutch, which will be hydraulic from the Wilwood pedal box. This should be a very potent and strong (e.g. I won’t break it) setup.

So first I have to tell a story, hinted at in my last update. Since I was adding the heads myself, figured I should do a valve to piston clearance check. I’m far from an expert, but in this case the couple engines I’ve done before didn’t even include this check. So I did the research, including information from my builder. Knew I needed a solid lifter, and the instructions said to take apart one of my roller lifters and fill with washers to make it a solid. I had no interest in disassembling one of the shiny new lifters (not knowing for sure what was inside, how it went back together, etc.) so I checked and I could get a solid flat tappet lifter for about 1/3 the price of a roller. Thinking I was being real clever to save a few bucks, and the difference in length didn’t matter because of the adjustable pushrod, I went with it. Set up the test, and panic. I was at about .050 vs .080 on the intake, and zero vs. .100 on the exhaust. I tried every method – clay, feeler gauge, dial indicator. Obviously pretty upset at that point because this is not a budget engine and really trying to do everything right. Talked to the engine builder. We exchanged pictures, discussed, etc. Finally took it back and he re-ran the test. Intake and exhaust both had plenty of clearance. Difference? He used a roller lifter. He explained the problem. Look at this picture. What do you see?

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2189_zps822eb324.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2189_zps822eb324.jpg.html)

On the left is the solid flat tappet lifter. On the right is a roller lifter. The red marking is added (also on the top) to remind it’s a hydraulic modified to be a solid. Note the difference in contact where it meets the cam. Obviously very different. My builder explained that a roller cam is ground differently than a flat tappet cam, and the flat tappet can’t follow the ramp in the roller cam. It just follows across the highest points. As a result, completely wrong valve to piston clearance readings. All you experts out there are probably not surprised and could have saved me a lot of drama. Well, learned something, unfortunately the hard way (again).

[edwardb]

So, moving on, once that was over commenced with starting engine assembly. While I’ve had time over the past couple of days, first installed the harmonic balancer and then used a dial indicator to get TDC on #1 piston and set the timing pointer to zero:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2169_zpse253706f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2169_zpse253706f.jpg.html)

Then prepared for head installation. The Dart block uses 1/2 studs, so installed those, the head gaskets, and dropped the heads on. The Dart block has all blind holes, so no sealer needed for the lower row. Nice. Lubed the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP assembly lube:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2170_zps3504ed7f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2170_zps3504ed7f.jpg.html)

Then out with the torque wrench and stepped through the tightening sequence in three steps, finishing at the prescribed 110 foot pounds. Times 20 that was plenty of pulling for me.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2172_zpsf0140f41.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2172_zpsf0140f41.jpg.html)

Then setup to get the pushrod length determined. Used #2 cylinder since I still had the checker springs in #1. (More about that later) Used the solid lifter and a checking pushrod, and after a few tries had nicely centered marks. Pushrods came out to be 6.450. Coincidentally (or maybe not) exactly the same size as on my 306.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2175_zps129b4278.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2175_zps129b4278.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2178_zps4a64c83d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2178_zps4a64c83d.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2173_zps23338370.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2173_zps23338370.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2174_zpsb06881e6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2174_zpsb06881e6.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

I heard that in some setups the Comp Cam Ultra Pro Magnum rockers I'm using can have an interference problem against the poly locks at full lift. So I mocked up the pushrod checking setup on #1 piston and rotated the engine several times. With the checker springs, I could push the rocker down a little all the way around just to make sure there was always enough clearance. All good.

Then check fit the intake manifold, water pump, Cobra Earl water neck and Jegs inlet. Found that I did have an interference issue at the water neck. Don’t know if this is unique to the Edelbrock water pump. But regardless, plenty of material there, and removed enough to have decent clearance. You can see the scooped out area under the water neck.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2185_zpsda7d6fd4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2185_zpsda7d6fd4.jpg.html)

So, here’s how it looks so far. When the pushrods arrive, will button up the valve train and final install the intake and water pump. Not too much further. Real happy with how it’s turning out.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2181_zpsd0ecc877.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2181_zpsd0ecc877.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2180_zps3397370d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2180_zps3397370d.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Busy week and weekend, but managed to make some more progress on engine assembly.

Soaked the COMP Cam roller lifters in mineral spirits, as directed, lubed the lifters and bores with oil, and the roller ends with COMP Cam Pro Assembly lube, and dropped them in. Then installed the dog bones and spider:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2192_zpsfd97ff50.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2192_zpsfd97ff50.jpg.html)

Put ARP assembly lube on the ARP 7/16 rocker arm studs, lined up the guide plates with the pushrods and lifters, and torqued the rocker arm studs to 55 ft. lbs. as specified by ARP. This picture is after completed and the COMP Cams Pro Magnum roller rockers back in place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2194_zps64a26d19.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2194_zps64a26d19.jpg.html)

Then rolled through all 16 and set the pre-load to 1/2 turn in. I was super careful to have each lifter on the base circle of the cam when set. Then put a good tug on the poly locks.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2199_zpsb5b50a37.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2199_zpsb5b50a37.jpg.html)

Valve train all finished! Looks nice. Hate to cover it up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2196_zpsa8a74337.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2196_zpsa8a74337.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2197_zps91893855.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2197_zps91893855.jpg.html)

Then installed the Edelbrock intake manfold gaskets with Edelbrock's Gasgacinch product. Put a bead of Permatex Ultrablack RTV around the front and back of the valley opening, and a light bead around the water passages. Then dropped the intake in place and tightend the nuts using the sequence illustrated in the Air Gap instructions. I didn't use a torque wrench. Just round and round a little tighter each time, and then finally a medium pull with a regular 3/8 socket handle. Note also I didn't use bolts into the aluminum heads. I have studs bottomed out in the heads so every bit of the threads are used and not turned while tightening. Then ARP washers and nuts on the top. Hope to save the threads in the aluminum heads.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2202_zpsc4f0fa63.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2202_zpsc4f0fa63.jpg.html)

Just to wrap the day, went ahead and installed the Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2207_zps796095af.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2207_zps796095af.jpg.html)

This week I hope to get the water pump and front dress done. Then distributor, coil and spark plug wires and will be near the finish line.

[edwardb]

Another quick update on the engine assembly, and then will get back to the chassis and body. My initial assembly attempt for the front dress didn't go well. Thought I did all my homework, but obviously I didn't. I only have a water pump and alternator to drive, and wanted to use serpentine. Also wanted a lower PS side alternator to stay out of the way of the Cobra Earl thermostat housing and upper radiator hose. The whole story is in this separate thread:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/346194-alternator-bracket-pulley-alignment.html

This is the final setup, after the right parts were obtained and installed:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2211_zpsbc62fc66.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2211_zpsbc62fc66.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2212_zpsb9d55384.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2212_zpsb9d55384.jpg.html)

Next job was the spark plug wires and wire looms. I used Taylor wires that need to be cut to length and terminated. Also R&M Specialties vertical looms. These are the same ones I used on my Mk3, and I like how they work and look. I temporarily installed the headers so I could fit the dip stick and get the right orientation and loops on the wires at the plugs. Then put the engine at #1 TDC and moved back 12-14 degrees using the timing marks. Then installed the distributor with the rotor pointing about 11:00 for #1. This gives a pretty neat wiring arrangement. Plus orients the cap clips where I can get to them.

Then checking carefully (over and over) to make sure I had the right wires to the right terminals on the cap, temporarily mocked everything up with clothes pins.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2214_zps8788b7ee.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2214_zps8788b7ee.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2217_zps0d366b2f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2217_zps0d366b2f.jpg.html)

Tried to leave enough slack so I could rotate the distributor both directions to fine tune the timing. Then one-by-one cut the wires to length, slid on the boot, and crimped on the terminals. Turned out looking pretty OK:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2218_zps0e4f3ed1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2218_zps0e4f3ed1.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2219_zpsb02c0163.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2219_zpsb02c0163.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

This is the final install on each cylinder bank. This was my first time using an aftermarket pan (Moroso) with the dipstick into the rear bump out. This is where the instructions said to install the dipstick. Different (for me) but should work OK. The picture makes the dipstick looks closer to the header tubes than it really is. It's almost exactly centered in the opening, with nearly equal clearance all around. It's a Moroso piece, and installed exactly where they said to. So hopefully it's designed for the heat it will see in that location.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2222_zpsea770278.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2222_zpsea770278.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2220_zpsdbd83c1f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2220_zpsdbd83c1f.jpg.html)

Also I have to report another somewhat expensive lesson learned... I installed an Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump. I ordered the fittings to attach my -6 AN fuel feed, and thought I would go ahead and install them. The inlet from the fuel tank used a straight adapter, so no sweat. The outlet is a 90 degree adapter, to get the fuel line pointed up toward the carb. The Edelbrock instructions very clearly state not to overtighten the connections or you can crack the pump. (You know where this is going...) I put a dab of Teflon paste on the right angle fitting and screwed in. When it started to tighten near where it was pointing up I thought no sweat to go another turn around. Put a wrench on it and didn't feel like I was pushing too hard, but in hindsight I probably was. Sure enough, made a very faint cracking sound and I now had a hairline crack in the bottom of the pump through the fitting threads. The adapter tightens up OK, but there is definitely a hairline crack. I looked at it under magnification, and maybe could get away with JB Welding the fitting in. But just not going to mess with a fuel leak or chance of a major failure, fire, whatever. A $100 fuel pump just isn't worth risking the whole car. Will get another and install (carefully) in the not too distant future.

I'm taking this next week off, and will spent some serious time doing some initial body work (clean up, trim edges, etc.) and fit to the chassis. I want to make sure all my aluminum is fitting OK plus get the location for my dash and several under hood components. I have a blank dash and will be doing a custom cut. Then wiring starts.

[edwardb]

Took a week of vacation this past week, and was able to spend some quality time on the build. My goals for the week were to start work on the body and get an initial fit onto the chassis, and also to finish up the initial engine assembly. Had to work around some rainy days, but pretty much accomplished everything I planned.

First the body. The body was basically untouched since delivery. So, first order of business was to give it a thorough wash down with Duplic-Color grease and wax remover, first with a Scotch-Brite pad and then clean up with rags. Then gave it a bath with Dawn dishwashing detergent, a brush, and a garden hose. Did the body plus all the other pieces (hood, trunk, doors, scoop). I’ll hit it again with Scotch-Brite and Comet Cleanser just to make sure it’s really clean plus dull the gel coat a little when I’m closer to paint time. But it’s clean for now. Next I marked all the edges with some spacers and a Sharpie – wheel wells, hood, trunk and door openings. Then started trimming and sanding. I did the initial knock down with a belt sander and various size drum sanders in a corded hand drill. Also made sure to wear a fiberglass rated mask. Messy. Then finished with 80 grit paper and a foam sanding block. Then trimmed and cleaned around the entire exterior. I did the hood, trunk and door openings with it upright. Flipped it over to do the wheel wells and perimeter. I also block sanded the complete underside, knocking off any loose glass fibers, bumps, etc. Only a few fiberglass splinters in the process (ouch!).

This was my first “up close and personal” look at the Mk4 body compared to the Mk3 body I did the same thing to a Mk3 a couple years ago. My conclusion is that it’s a huge improvement. All the panels match perfectly. Even without trimming the hood and trunk match well. I really struggled with both on the Mk3. The body parting lines all line up very well. I don’t see any areas that will need patching. I had to do some glass and resin repairs in two places on the Mk3 body. Nothing like that here. I had read somewhere that someone thought the Mk4 bodies were thinner than previous marks. I don't see that at all. I really like the wrap-around sill below the door. Not only will that hide the mounting bolts and just make that area look more finished, it adds a little rigidness to the body when handling at this stage. The wheel well openings finish up nice. I was initially a little disappointed with the roll around the rear cockpit. It's undercut on the backside quite a bit. But once I fit the chassis later, I see why it's that way and it looks OK. The roll on the dash area is nice, and also looks good with the chassis in place. So to say I’m pleased is an understatement. I hope this translates into a little cheaper bill from my painter. We’ll see. Here are some pictures of the progress and completed work.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2230_zps6397a6c0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2230_zps6397a6c0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2223_zpseb2299d5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2223_zpseb2299d5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2225_zps68709457.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2225_zps68709457.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2226_zps6a434e7b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2226_zps6a434e7b.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2227_zpsf1d38e23.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2227_zpsf1d38e23.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2228_zpsf71d25b6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2228_zpsf71d25b6.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2229_zps5a5aa588.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2229_zps5a5aa588.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Next step was to make my first attempt at fitting the body to the nearly completed chassis. Technically, not required to do this yet, because I still have a lot to do before really fitting the body. But I wanted to get an initial read on how everything fit, tire back spacing, centering in the wheel wells. Plus get some measurements for further work including the dash, wire harness at each light corner, and location for the brake and clutch reservoirs. I have hooks in my garage ceiling, and use some locking pulleys (intended for garage bike storage) to raise and lower the body. I used this same setup for my Mk3. It’s a little bit of work, but not too bad. With my pit crew (that would be my wife) we’re getting pretty good at it. The Mk4 body is definitely a little harder to take on and off with the wrap around sills. You have to spring out the body pretty good to clear the sides. But once in place I really like how it fits. I noted two small areas I needed to trim to make it perfect, and good to go. Wheel spacing and centering looks good. I made about two pages of notes of dimensions, etc. Then back off and onto the body buck until going on for real the next time. It does look nice though. Starting to really look like progress.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2241_zps83b5d65a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2241_zps83b5d65a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2240_zps5d9443b0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2240_zps5d9443b0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2231_zpsd0fc3cc9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2231_zpsd0fc3cc9.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2236_zps4c82d310.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2236_zps4c82d310.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2237_zps22228d42.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2237_zps22228d42.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2238_zps7b348af4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2238_zps7b348af4.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2239_zpsf04db9df.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008102013/IMG_2239_zpsf04db9df.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finally, spent some time to finish initial assembly on the engine. I have a couple of small details yet to complete, but this is basically the final product. I am going to get a taller element for the air cleaner. It came with a 2 inch, and a 3 inch will fit under the hood. I found a K&N one that should work. Hopefully that will breathe well enough.

Next step is to lay out the dash, cut out for gauges and switches, and start getting serious about wiring. But first order of business is the Woodward Dream Cruise. Technically, it's a week from today, but things are happening all week. We have our first club event today with high in the 70's and severe blue sky. The Mk3 will be cruising.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2242_zps30354962.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2242_zps30354962.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2243_zpsd5347aaa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2243_zpsd5347aaa.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2244_zpsc3488fd6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2244_zpsc3488fd6.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2246_zpsb774e9fd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2246_zpsb774e9fd.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2248_zps2ba21f7f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2248_zps2ba21f7f.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Looks like I’m averaging an update every several weeks. My prediction all along has been a two year build. Next week I will have had the Mk4 for 1 year. Going about right I guess.

Since the last update nothing huge, but some progress. After checking with the body on (last update) I finalized the location of the brake and clutch reservoirs. Turns out the location planned by Tom the original owner was just right. Did a little work on the brackets he already made by changing from rivets to counter-sunk screws. Squared things up a bit, put on a new polish, and mounted. What’s not clear in these pictures is I also installed the hose fittings in the bottom of the reservoirs and top of master cylinder. They’re all 1/8 in. NPT threads. The problem was they only turned in several turns before the taper stopped them. I wasn’t happy with this at all. Only brass fittings and aluminum tanks, and these are (obviously) big time safety related parts. So out came the 1/8 in. NPT tap, and I carefully cut several more turns into the holes. Much better. (Did the same thing on oil and water temp sender fittings for the engine.)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2255_zpsd40d58d6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2255_zpsd40d58d6.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2256_zps011e0f7b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2256_zps011e0f7b.jpg.html)

Next thing I worked on was the dash. Again, established the exact position of the dash with the body in place. So now to the dash layout. I like the competition layout better than the standard layout provided by FFR. So I ordered a blank dash. My Mk3 also has the competition layout, but the tach is about half covered by the steering wheel. So I made paper shapes of the various gauges, and played with the layout until I was happy with it. I have an oil temp gauge in addition to the other usual gauges. This is what I came up with. With the seat and steering wheel in place, I can check the sight lines. The tach isn’t completely exposed, but I can see nearly all of it. None of these pictures are the exact driver sight line. You’ll have to take my word for it. That's Alex's glovebox I'm installing as well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2257_zps111c6e00.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2257_zps111c6e00.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2258_zps1201c843.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2258_zps1201c843.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2259_zpsdebcc692.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2259_zpsdebcc692.jpg.html)

This picture shows the under dash supports I made up. The end ones will have downlights for the footwells. The center one will have two 12v outlets and a place to mount the immobilizer switch and a few other things. Not visible in this picture (partly because all not done yet) are the hidden dash mounts and the .040 backer I’m adding to the main part of the dash. Want it to be a little more solid. Next up is starting to lay in the wiring harness, cut the dash, cover with vinyl, etc. More details later.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2260_zpsf8a82ea3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2260_zpsf8a82ea3.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finally, this week I received my TKO600. So got out the shop crane today to get it out of the box, install the bell housing, and check fit of all related parts. Checked out the Forte hydraulic clutch mechanism, clutch fork, throw-out bearing, flywheel, and McLeod clutch. Everything seems to be perfect. I’ll finalize everything when I take the engine off the stand and mate everything up prior to engine install. Sometime in the next couple months. The clutch fork is just laying in the opening in these pictures, so not lined up exactly with the opening in the bell housing or the slave cylinder. Not to worry. Everything lines up fine when actually installed.

Note my TKO600 is from a local Tremec elite distributor Liberty's High Performance. They do a syncro upgrade and a couple other internal enhancements that they claim make it shift better. They said I would like it even compared to the T5 in my Mk3. I hope they're right. We'll see. Also I'm leaving the shifter in the traditional location with the forward facing shift lever. I like the original Cobra look plus with the experience in my Mk3, it shifts totally fine that way.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2261_zpsca72f14a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2261_zpsca72f14a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2262_zps9c88990f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2262_zps9c88990f.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2263_zpse8d4fcd0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2263_zpse8d4fcd0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2265_zps217560af.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2265_zps217560af.jpg.html)

Same comment as many of my updates: Still having fun!

[edwardb]

As updates go, this is pretty minor. But still a couple evenings of messing around and I'm happy with the results. I used Billet Specialties for the matching oval air cleaner and valve covers. Nice pieces, but I was concerned the provided 2 inch high air filter element was a little too small (restrictive) plus with the 302 sized block, have available height under the hood for something more. So, found a 3 inch K&N E-9201 that matched the oval dimensions exactly. But when I got it home, the inside dimension of the channels in the air cleaner housing top and bottom were too small. About 1/2 inch all around. The bottom is a cast piece. The top a machined piece. No other K&N options available, and didn't really want to look for something else. So tried to figure out a way to make this one work. Most of my tools are from my former days doing woodworking. I've found that a router with a good sharp carbide bit cuts aluminum pretty well if you have everything anchored down, take light cuts, and go slow. So made a template out of masonite, and with a bushing on the router, trimmed out the top and bottom of the air filter halves to fit the K&N filter. Turned out pretty good. The K&N filter fits like a glove.

Air filter housing before:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2267_zpscf06062b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2267_zpscf06062b.jpg.html)

Air filter housing after:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2269_zpsdc1a11f9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2269_zpsdc1a11f9.jpg.html)

Engine before:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2253_zps3a0cf1c9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2253_zps3a0cf1c9.jpg.html)

Engine after:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2270_zpsd5ba9549.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2270_zpsd5ba9549.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2271_zpsd87894c4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2271_zpsd87894c4.jpg.html)

As the pretty lame Wendy's commercials say, "Now that's better!"

[edwardb]

It’s been a while since my last update. Doing life with several breaks from the build. But still making progress. My main focus over the past weeks has been the instrument panel. It’s taken way longer than I originally expected. Many details, but finally have something to show. My design objectives for the dash were many:

- Pretty traditional style with materials, gauges, switches, etc. I like the newer style modern dashes some guys do, but in the end my overall build is kind of a modern tribute.

- Competition style layout. I just like it better. Started with a blank dash from FFR and did my own layout and cut-outs from there.

- FFR Speedhut gauges, with the addition of an oil temp gauge. I had the oil and water temp gauges done in Fahrenheit. My brain just doesn’t wrap around Celcius.

- Lucas switches for horn, wiper, fan and emergency. AC/Delco headlight switch with the FFR supplied knob. FFR ignition switch. Flush switches in the dash for seat heaters and fog/running lights. LED indicator lights for turn signals, high beam and cooling fan right in front where I can’t miss them.

- Three dash supports. Narrow one at each end, with wider in the middle. Gives good strength, but still reasonably open for service. The end supports have down lights for the footwells. The center support has aux outlets for GPS, cell phone, etc.

- I wanted to have a little more beef than the standard .040 dash. So I made a second .040 backer piece and laminated to the back of the FFR dash before doing all the cut-outs. It’s inside the 3/4 inch dash tube and stops short of the curve on the ends. I could have made a whole new dash out of thicker material, like many have done. But I didn’t have an easy way to do the bend along the bottom, which is critical to the look and strength of the final product. Just be aware that some of the normal pieces we use, e.g. the ignition switch and Lucas switches don’t like the thicker dash. Once you add the padding and vinyl on the front, you run out of mounting threads. You need to relieve the back of the dash to still only have the .040 of aluminum thickness where they mount. I planned ahead on the ignition switch and worked well. Didn’t plan so well on the Lucas switches so had to cut the reliefs after the dash was done and vinyl installed. Needless to say, that’s the hard way.

- I wanted the dash mounts to be hidden, but still accessible should I ever need to remove it. So attached brackets to the backer piece using flat head machine screws captured between the lamination. Note I put the body on the chassis some weeks before (covered in a previous update) and did a bunch of fitting and mock-ups. So I was able to determine the exact position of the dash and the mounting brackets.

- Alex’s glove box and vinyl covering. What I didn’t want though was the padded “plush” look. So instead of the foam padding, I applied a layer of marine vinyl (from Jo-Ann Fabrics) on the dash first, and then the vinyl covering from Alex. Gives a nice flat look with just a slight amount of cushion. The gauges and switches pull down into it slightly. I sanded a slight radius on the first coat of vinyl around the glove box opening. Then pulled the top layer around to the back. Nearly matches the glove box door radius. Everything looks really clean. I like the look.

- I used DAP Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant Contact Cement for all the vinyl work. It’s supposed to be sprayed, which I initially thought about doing. But didn’t want to destroy a spray gun plus it’s really messy. So tried it with a small smooth foam roller, and worked great. I suspect I used way more material than you would if spraying, because even with a light touch the roller pushes the adhesive into the cloth liner on the back of the vinyl. So had to use a second coat there. But the least I could buy was a gallon, so had plenty. It flashes off very quickly and you can really keep moving with it. Other than the smell (!!!) it worked great. By all accounts I should have no issues with it delaminating due to heat.

So here are pictures of the process and progress. First tweaked the competition layout so I had good sight lines on the gauges. Especially the tach which is partially hidden in my Mk3:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2257_zps111c6e00.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008242013/IMG_2257_zps111c6e00.jpg.html)

Then laminated the backer onto the main dash piece. Used DAP Weldwood Gel Formula contact cement. Hadn't received the Landau yet. Will probably hold long term, but once all the gauges and switches are in there is also a mechanical hold between the two halves.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2272_zps604474c8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2272_zps604474c8.jpg.html)

Finished blank dash from back showing backer and mounting brackets.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2274_zps4c0dbbaa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2274_zps4c0dbbaa.jpg.html)

Dash after all cutouts completed. Mainly used a sabre saw with a fine tooth metal blade or a Dremel with a rotary bit and then cleaned up the edges with drum sanders in the drill press. Used step drills for the smaller stuff. Holes all sized to accept whatever went in each one plus the thickness of the vinyl pulled through to the back.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2276_zps728e5665.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2276_zps728e5665.jpg.html)

Checking the fit of the dash to the chassis. All good!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2278_zps0763e1e6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2278_zps0763e1e6.jpg.html)

Front of dash after first layer of vinyl lamination.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2279_zpsa15a026f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2279_zpsa15a026f.jpg.html)

Back of dash after first layer of vinyl lamination.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2280_zps2c09ca7a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2280_zps2c09ca7a.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Final layer of vinyl in progress. I didn't apply the vinyl with contact cement exactly as pictured here, e.g. with the panel face up. I actually put the vinyl face down on the table behind, taping around the perimeter so it was perfectly flat. Then rolled on the contact cement, let it set up, and dropped the aluminum panel onto the vinyl. Pressed down as well as I could and pulled up onto the curved ends. Then carefully removed everything and placed it on the bench face up (as pictured) and very carefully rolled from the center out in all directions. I would not try to do it the other way around, e.g. move the vinyl into place vs. moving the instrument panel. Just too easy to let something stick too soon. There is no chance to reposition, and anything that touches even a little and try to lift will leave roughness under the vinyl that especially would show through since I'm not using the foam cushion.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2281_zpse916134b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2281_zpse916134b.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2283_zpsaed653b4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2283_zpsaed653b4.jpg.html)

Finished, wrapped, and everything installed. Pretty stressful! I felt very lucky to get the vinyl installed without a bump or a blemish anywhere. It's perfect. Hopefully it stays that way.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2284_zpsff0db7a5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2284_zpsff0db7a5.jpg.html)

Backside isn’t quite so pretty.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2286_zps2e7976df.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2286_zps2e7976df.jpg.html)

Checked needle and gauge illumination. Doesn’t show up very well, but everything is lit here. Flash washes it out. A little disappointed the clock hands aren’t lit, but knew that already from other comments.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2290_zps06eab60f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2290_zps06eab60f.jpg.html)

Quickly bolted it into the chassis tonight to get another look at everything. All good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2298_zps08c0c554.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2298_zps08c0c554.jpg.html)

Pretty much exact sight line from driver’s head sitting in seat. Can see all the important stuff.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2300_zps0cee5d8f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2300_zps0cee5d8f.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

All the wiring just jammed in there for now. Lots of work ahead to hook everything up and make it look a little better.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2305_zps46a1f18a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2305_zps46a1f18a.jpg.html)

I like it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2308_zpsc5593189.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2308_zpsc5593189.jpg.html)

Now to really get into the wiring.

FYI, all the pictures in this build thread are taken with my Canon EOS Rebel and uploaded into Photobucket at full 12.2 MP resolution. So if you click the pictures in this thread it takes you to Photobucket. Then click the little magnifying class in the lower RH corner once, and then again for original size. You will get a very detailed picture you can scroll around in. Just promise you won't point out all the defects you can see then.

[edwardb]

Another few weeks and haven't had a lot of available time for the build, but made some important progress. I'm installing Fast Freddies power steering setup in the Mk4. Will use for the steering plus hydroboost on the brakes. The main work for the installation is mounting the pump. It's intended to be mounted at the center intersection of the front X brace. But this area is partially taken on my build by the Breeze front battery mount. The round tubes of the Mk4 make it a little interesting as well. Plus I wasn't a real fan of how it's shown to be installed, with the pump hookups on the front pointed down. Probably OK for PS only, but for my setup the high pressure line leaves the pump and first stop is the hydroboost unit. The low pressure line goes to the reservoir, so also a bit of a roundabout path from the front of the pump. At first I was going to make a new bracket. But after making a cardboard pattern, decided the supplied bracket just needed to be modified a bit. Only took two changes. First enlarged the semi-circle cutout so that it could be mounted from the other side. This put the hook-ups pointed up instead of down. Then cut a semi-circle channel about 1/8 inch deep between the upper mounting holes so that it could mount tighter against the round X tube. I don't know what aluminum Freddie made the bracket from, but it's way harder than the usual 6061. My wood cutting bandsaw didn't like it all. I used a metal cutting blade in a sabre saw, and using a lot of wax lubrication was able to final complete the cut out. The channel I made pretty much freehand with an air driven cut off-tool dragging the disc from one side to the other. Then cleaned up both using drum sanders. Turned out surprisingly well. Roughed it up and shot a coat of Duplicolor engine paint, and it was ready for mounting.

This is the modified bracket waiting for the paint to dry. The bolt is just to hold it while painting and drying.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2310_zpse5726b1a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2310_zpse5726b1a.jpg.html)

Bracket mounted to the pump. This is the opposite side from how it's provided.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2312_zpsd2fe7d99.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2312_zpsd2fe7d99.jpg.html)

Pump installed on chassis, from front. Note I just have room for the lower radiator hose bracket. Everything is well about the 4 inch tubes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2315_zps6b0c6da0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2315_zps6b0c6da0.jpg.html)

Pump installed on chassis from engine compartment. Direction of hookups are nearly ideal for easy and direct runs. The pump is rock solid. I'm very pleased how well the round channel tightens against the round X tube.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2317_zps670305c4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2317_zps670305c4.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Also I've been working on the wiring. Not terribly exciting at this point. Basically I'm roughing everything in, then will start terminating and mounting to final lengths and locations. First is the primary 12V power. Have the front mounted battery, as mentioned, and putting a Ron Francis master cut-off in the cockpit below the dash. So the main 12V feed from the battery needs to go up to the cut-off, and then on the switched side will be the short run back to the starter and also power into the dash area and fuse box. I've put the battery ends on the wires, mounted the cut-off switch, and started working on the routing. I'll put everything in convoluted tubing and tie down once finalized. Also I started figuring out where things will be on the firewall, like the MSD ignition box. Just a few hours into this and way more to go. Next step will be to mount the breaker and relay for the power steering pump, and then start finalizing the primary power harness. Then will start behind the dash with the Ron Francis harness. But things are stopping for 8 days as I'm off on a business trip tomorrow.

Firewall and cut-off switch location. Ignore the big coil of battery wire. Still have to cut to length. Just mocking up how the cables will route into the switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2319_zps7f908156.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2319_zps7f908156.jpg.html)

Starting to route battery wires.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2321_zpsa204cb2f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2321_zpsa204cb2f.jpg.html)

Hope to have some serious wiring done for the next update.

[edwardb]

Finally have some more progress to report. Been working on the dash and main electrical harness. There's nothing wrong with the supplied Ron Francis wiring harness, and it can be used exactly as supplied with excellent results. But I also like to customize and change things. These are the modifications I'm doing:

From rear harness: Removed fuel pump branch, shortened fuel tank sender. From main harness: Removed hot rod specific branch, removed inertia switch and tied grounds to use circuit for aux outlets, shortened headlight and ignition switch branches, cut off connectors and shortened alternator harness, shortened main power input branch, added taps for PS relay, headlight on chime, fog/running lights, trunk light, headlight relay, MSD ignition box. Added Weatherpack connectors and separate grounds for four corner lights, added Weatherpack connectors for cooling fan and license plate light. Added 100 amp fuse to alternator feed, used bus bar behind dash for power input and distribution.

For the dash, I posted pictures before of the layout and gauges installed. Last night finished installing the Ron Francis dash harness. Put some power to it, and everything lights and blinks the way it should, so ready to go in the chassis.

Ron Francis main wiring harness before:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2326_zpsb471fafc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2326_zpsb471fafc.jpg.html)

After:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2333_zps75a6f220.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2333_zps75a6f220.jpg.html)

Bit of a haircut:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2335_zps4bc7233d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2335_zps4bc7233d.jpg.html)

Dash before:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2325_zpsbcbf3eb4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2325_zpsbcbf3eb4.jpg.html)

Dash after, ready to install:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2336_zpscfa9f6fd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2336_zpscfa9f6fd.jpg.html)

Not much build time this coming week because of work and travel, but will have the Thanksgiving week off, so hoping to get most of the wiring done and prep for engine installation.

[CraigS]

Your dash looks great! I am curious why two layers of vinyl?

[edwardb]

Had this past week off from work. Ate too much and watched too much football. But was still able to get a lot of quality build time. It’s amazing how the hours fly by. Looking back at the week, seems that I didn’t get as much done as I hoped. But things just take a long time (for me anyway) and even though I’m pretty comfortable with electrical wiring, I’m going really slow taking a lot of notes and testing repeatedly to make sure everything works as expected.

I’m using a standard FFR supplied Ron Francis harness. In my last update I outlined several of the changes and additions I’m making. I have a front mounted battery (Breeze) and a master cut-off switch centered under the dash. So power comes from the battery to the cut-off switch, and then back to the starter plus a branch to the fuse panel. I brought the main power into the dash area using a Blue Sea Systems bus bar. These parts are intended for marine use, so probably a little overkill. But nice parts. The bus bar has the main power in, two main power feeds to the harness, and the alternator. Then added taps for the headlight module and fog/running lights through circuit breakers. I added a mega fuse for the alternator feed, also a Blue Sea Systems part. I didn’t plan to use a starter solenoid with the mini-starter. Don’t have one on my Mk3, and so far so good. But after reading some concerns about running the current through the ignition switch, added a 60 amp relay to the blue solenoid feed wire. An easy add.

I now have all the branches mounted (main, front, back, dash, etc.). Brake light, clutch safety and main ground wires mounted. Have the MSD ignition box mounted on the firewall. I found several recommendations from MSD and others that an MSD filter capacitor on the MSD box provides good protection and could prevent failures due to voltage spikes or whatever. So got one and it’s mounted right behind the MSD box on the firewall brace. Both the +12V and ground for the MSD box go through the filter capacitor. I made a panel to mount the American Autowire headlight module and two circuit breakers. On the dash center brace panel I mounted two more relays (fog/running lights, headlight on chime), two switches (PS cut-off and ignition immobilizer), and two 12V aux outlets. I have a smaller dash brace panel at each end of the dash. Each has an LED downlight for the footwells that will be attached to the courtesy light circuit. The main work left is to complete all the point-to-point wiring. The dash is done and ready to plug in.

All the wiring is being done with a decent crimper, a light touch of solder on the crimp (Let's not debate that please. I have a solder station and am pretty experienced with it from my R/C days...), and adhesive shrink sleeving. Should be durable and reliable.

The last thing I did tonight was lay out the wiring for the Freddie’s PS setup. Finally decided where I’m going to mount the breaker and relay. With those in place I can now finish up the main power wiring in the engine compartment. I'm going to wait until the engine is installed to bring the rest of the wires into the engine compartment. Like hookups for the various senders, choke, fan, etc. That way they're in exactly the right place through the firewall and as hidden as possible.

Snapped a few pictures. Looks way worse than it is (really). In fact, looking at it this way doesn’t seem that I accomplished too much.

Bus bar and mega fuse before hooking anything up. Each has an included cover, visible in the next pictures.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2344_zpsb1e56099.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2344_zpsb1e56099.jpg.html)

Lots of loose wires.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2348_zps10d0b832.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2348_zps10d0b832.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2350_zpsb9101fb2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2350_zpsb9101fb2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2349_zps0c618c94.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2349_zps0c618c94.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2352_zps692e2e0f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2352_zps692e2e0f.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Had a good week and weekend making progress with the wiring. Finished all the wiring behind the dash with the exception of the circuits going into the engine compartment (gauge senders, choke, alternator, etc.). I'm going to save those until the engine is installed to get the exact location(s). Called it good and mounted the instrument panel for (hopefully) the last time. Plugged everything together, and tested all the circuits. Everything works! All the lights, turn signals, fan, horn, needles swing, headlight high and low beams, etc. Managed to pop one fuse in the panel when I touched a couple alligator clips together while testing. Actually I was just testing to see if the fuses worked like they're supposed to. (That's my story and I'm sticking to it...)

Hard to make the wiring look pretty. But everything's neatly laid out, tied down, etc. The dash is 100% connectors so can be unplugged and removed if needed (not that I really want to do that). Possible service items like the three relays I added, the alternator megafuse, MSD box, and American Autowire headlight module are all also on connectors and accessible from under the dash.

You may notice I threw a piece of large shrink sleeve around the ignition switch. I have three braces on the dash -- wide one in the middle and a narrow one at each end -- but the underneath is open in the area of the ignition switch. With the location near the bottom of the dash (pretty normal) there's full battery power exposed, plus it's an easy mark if someone wanted to hot wire. The sleeving can be easily removed if necessary for service.

Some work remaining to wrap up the main power wiring in the engine compartment. Then will mate the engine / trans and get it installed. Now that will be progress. Here are some pictures:

Everything connected. Compare these pictures to the ones in my last update.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2353_zps42d20b78.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2353_zps42d20b78.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2355_zps6f1a6cbb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2355_zps6f1a6cbb.jpg.html)

Dash installation complete:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2363_zps8dc71cfb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2363_zps8dc71cfb.jpg.html)

Before: (Some weeks ago with the harness just laying in place and instrument panel temporarily hung)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2305_zps46a1f18a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Dash/IMG_2305_zps46a1f18a.jpg.html)

After:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2364_zps92c1f2e1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2364_zps92c1f2e1.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Having a pretty productive Christmas holiday break. The Fast Freddies EHPS is wired, plumbed, filled and running. As outlined in earlier posts, using the pump for power steering and hydroboost power brakes. After an initial issue with a defective fitting, got that replaced and I’m running with no leaks. I used Honda branded PS fluid from a local Honda dealer. The pump isn’t silent, that’s for sure, but I’m not unhappy with the sound level. The cooling fan in the shroud is louder. With the engine running, don’t expect it will be noticeable. Here are some pictures:

Wired the breaker and relay per Freddie’s instructions. Played around with some other locations. But decided the recommended location was the simplest and works fine. The system gets a direct battery feed, with a trigger wire from the ignition switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2373_zps310244e8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2373_zps310244e8.jpg.html)

06 AN braided stainless Teflon lined hose hookups at the hydroboost unit. Used the Hydrotech Brake HBS9101 adapter instead of the return line nipple, so an AN fitting there as well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2386_zps19647563.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2386_zps19647563.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2387_zps51044394.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2387_zps51044394.jpg.html)

Hook-ups and reservoir from the engine compartment.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2388_zps8cc901c8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2388_zps8cc901c8.jpg.html)

Hose hookups at the pump. This is the location described in an earlier posts allowing for the round tubes of the Mk4 and the Breeze front battery box. Note that with the flipped and reversed pump location, the hose connections are direct and clean.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2390_zps77641436.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2390_zps77641436.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2391_zps082946ce.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2391_zps082946ce.jpg.html)

Also as noted earlier, I mounted a small cooler on the back of the radiator shroud. Here it is all hooked up. Maybe not needed, but cheap insurance and easy to install now. Not so much later.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2401_zps5d4540a2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2401_zps5d4540a2.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Also able to finish the bulk of the electrical wiring. The only thing left are the wires to the engine (sensors, choke, ignition, etc.) that I’ll finalize after the engine is installed. Everything is checked out and working perfectly. I clipped in all the lights and cycled through every possible combination. All is good! So far, I’m really happy with how the American Autowire headlight module it working.

It was fun removing the 12V power supply I've been using during the wiring stage and finally running everything off the battery. It's now completely standalone. I tried to convince my wife it was now living and breathing. But she always tries to convince me it's just an inanimate object. Imagine that!

The main work completed since the last update was the main power wiring from the battery to the master cut-off switch and back to the starter. Also finished the Weather Pack connectors on all four corners, installed the high dollar Harbor Freight horns, and wired the cooling fan. Note that I added chassis grounds to each corner. I took the RF provided ground wire to the chassis, and then branched to the connectors and in turn the lights. These additional grounds plus the couple that I added behind the dash provide a lot of redundancy. Here are some pictures.

PS front corner lights. The added ground point can be seen. The lower connector is for the Tangent running lights in the oil cooler opening.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2380_zps99767f7f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2380_zps99767f7f.jpg.html)

DS front corner lights and horns.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2382_zps65e2cba2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2382_zps65e2cba2.jpg.html)

DS rear corner. The added gound is underneath.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2383_zpsdb5759eb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2383_zpsdb5759eb.jpg.html)

PS rear corner. These aren’t that exciting, but there you go.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2384_zps5f62472b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2384_zps5f62472b.jpg.html)

Battery connections with the Breeze front battery mount. The empty ground lug is for one of the engine ground wires. I’ll finalize that once the engine is installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2393_zps3b47ce87.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2393_zps3b47ce87.jpg.html)

Main battery power along the PS 4 inch tube.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2394_zps8ed308f4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2394_zps8ed308f4.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Main battery power connections to the master switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2395_zps787a9d77.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2395_zps787a9d77.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2396_zps21d5dcbb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2396_zps21d5dcbb.jpg.html)

Master switch under the dash.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2397_zpsfd588fde.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Electrical/IMG_2397_zpsfd588fde.jpg.html)

Tomorrow I will start preparing for the engine for installation. Can’t wait to get that thing off the stand and into the car. Could be interesting if we get as much snow as is being predicted. Would be too bad if I couldn't get back to work on Monday.

[edwardb]

Made some good progress getting the engine, transmission, and related parts together. First order of business was to install the motor mounts. Right away discovered a problem. I have the pretty typical Energy Suspension polyurethane engine and transmission mounts. Seems that my DART SHP block has an extra web on each motor mount boss that directly interferes with the corner of the motor mounts. I couldn’t imagine cutting any metal on my DART block. A quick search found this was a pretty common problem, and the recommended fix (including directly from my engine builder) is just to notch out the Energy Suspension motor mounts to clear the block. I used some marking grease left over from my differential gear change (I knew it had to be good for something) to get the exact spots. A little trial and error with an air cut-off tool, and I had the clearance necessary and they mount up just fine. Then off with the carb, on with the lifting plate, out with the shop crane and the engine was freed from the engine stand for hopefully the last time. I have a pretty crude homemade wood stand to set the engine on the mounts and access the back. Not pretty but it works. Better than a tire.

First step was to install the Ford Racing pilot bearing. Popped it into the freezer for a couple hours, put a little wipe of WD-40 in the bore, and a few good whacks with a large socket and a dead blow hammer and it was home in the back of the SCAT forged crank. Then on the with QuickTime block plate. Tight fit over the dowels but perfect alignment with all the bolt holes including the starter. That has been a problem with QuickTime in the past. Now apparently finally fixed. Then installed the Ford Racing billet steel flywheel. Used ARP bolts, a little ARP lube on the heads and Loctite 567 Teflon Thread Sealant on the threads. Torqued to the ARP recommended 75 foot pounds. I had already installed the clutch dowel pins. (Interesting story there. Apparently it's not a good idea to take the dowel pins out of the freezer and pound them into the flywheel on the basement floor at 7:00 AM in the morning like I did several weeks ago. I'm told this makes a terrible racket and tends to wake up others in the house. Who knew?)

Although not mandatory, it’s usually recommended to check the bell housing for proper alignment with the crankshaft. The instructions are provided from QuickTime, and are pretty standard for all. First bolted on the bell housing with no clutch, clutch fork, or pivot ball. Then mounted a dial indicator on the flywheel, and adjust the plunger to contact the circumference of the transmission bore of the housing. Zero’d the indicator, and then rotated the crank stopping every 90 degrees are so to check the reading. Maximum allowable off center is .005. Mine was a little over .001 at the worst, and near zero much of the time around. Pretty good and nothing to be done here.

Then onto the McLeod Super StreetPro clutch. Cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with carb cleaner, used the provided alignment tool to locate the clutch disk, and mounted the pressure plate. Used blue Loctite and torqued to the recommended 20 foot pounds.

Next was to set the adjustable clutch fork pivot ball in the bell housing. I kind of guessed at the first setting and trial fit the bell housing with the clutch fork and throw-out bearing in place. A few more off and on adjustments and found the spot where the throw-out bearing was slightly away from the pressure plate and the fork straight or slightly forward in the bell housing opening. Used blue Loctite and a good grunt on the lock nut to lock in this position for the pivot ball. Then clipped in the clutch fork with throw-out bearing and bolted up the bell housing for hopefully the last time.

I was going to stop there, but since all was going well decided to see if I could persuade the TKO600 into place. The thing is not light (and my back is weak) but I didn’t want to get out the shop crane again. So kind of jury rigged around with two floor jacks and was able to get it lined up and finally in. The fit between the TKO and the bell housing hole is a pretty tight interference fit. No way it's going to just push in. So very carefully did use the mounting bolts to draw it into place (even though instructions say not to do this) but I was super careful to make sure everything was kept in perfect alignment the whole time and going in properly including the input shaft splines and pilot shaft. Engine turns freely and the output shaft turns when it's in gear. So all is good.

Last step was to quickly bolt on the Forte hydraulic clutch pieces. I have some work to do here to get the alignment a little better than it is. Found some threads that address this, so think I know what to do. Once that’s done, I’m planning to plumb the line from the clutch master cylinder and confirm the clutch is working properly before installing into the car. Back to work tomorrow and a more normal schedule, so could be a week or two, but hopefully will be ready to drop this all into the chassis soon. Pictures taken along the way:

Block plate installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2402_zpsd59d0e93.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2402_zpsd59d0e93.jpg.html)

Pilot bearing installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2404_zps084aed62.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2404_zps084aed62.jpg.html)

Flywheel installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2406_zps2e0133f5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2406_zps2e0133f5.jpg.html)

Checking bell housing alignment to crankshaft.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2409_zps1cf43fb7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2409_zps1cf43fb7.jpg.html)

Alignment tool and clutch disk:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2410_zps92c99f9b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2410_zps92c99f9b.jpg.html)

Clutch assembly complete.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2412_zps53e46cf6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2412_zps53e46cf6.jpg.html)

TKO600 to engine assembly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2413_zps669b763d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2413_zps669b763d.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

All together!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2415_zpsc25523c7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2415_zpsc25523c7.jpg.html)

Some work to do here to fix the alignment.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2417_zps607b0496.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2417_zps607b0496.jpg.html)

A bit of a cliché, but true: Still having fun!

[edwardb]

Your dash looks great! I am curious why two layers of vinyl?

Thanks. I'm trying to avoid the "puffy look" of the padded dash. So instead of foam padding, using a layer of vinyl as a base instead. Then the finished vinyl on the top. The final result is slightly cushioned, and the instruments and switches push into it slightly. For the record, not a completely original idea. I've seen this on a couple of other builds, and liked the look. Thought I would give it a shot.

[EricatHeritage]

Great workmanship and one of the best build threads I have read. Thanks for posting. I found plenty of great information to help with my own build!

Please keep updating!

[DaleG]

Really impressive workmanship!

[Jester]

Great build thread - Nice dash layout and the PS foot box mod (extension) is great. I would extend the PS foot box on my next build.

Keep up the great work and thx for the updates

[chopthebass]

Awesome build. What size tires have you got. They look nice and chunky.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the kind words guys. Fun to build and fun to share.

The tires are:

Front tires: Nitto NT555 Extreme ZR 255/40ZR17
Rear tires: Nitto NT555 Extreme ZR 315/35ZR17

I think these are pretty much the max size for the FFR 17x9 and 17x10.5 wheels.

[edwardb]

Well, if you saw the pictures in my last update, my installation of the Forte hydraulic clutch setup wasn’t lining up properly. The rod end seemed very close to the clutch fork – maybe too close – and the slave cylinder didn’t line up with the pivot point on the clutch fork. Searched the forums looking for other experiences plus received some information from carlewms and PhoneGuy. (Thanks guys!) What I decided to do was get some spacers. Slightly longer spacers for the main bracket and spacers to move the slave cylinder away from the main bracket. Looked at the local hardware store and didn’t find anything really acceptable. So went to the real hardware store – McMaster-Carr – and found exactly the right parts. They got hung up in the recent snowstorm, so didn’t get the usual 1 day service. But that was UPS, not McMaster. For just slightly more cost I ordered zinc coated steel instead of aluminum. The extra strength is probably not needed, but can’t hurt. The main spacers are 1 inch long, about 1/4 inch longer than the ones provided. The grade 8 bolts Mike provided were still long enough. The slave cylinder spacers are 1/2 inch long, so required longer grade 8 bolts to mount. Mocked up these parts, and the alignment looked perfect. So threw a coat of chassis black paint on the spacers, like I had done on the other parts, and put everything together. Cut the pushrod to the correct length and all looked good. Since I wanted to really check it out before installing the engine, I rolled the engine next to the chassis/pedal box, hooked up the hose and bled the system. All went fine, and (magic!) the clutch pedal moved the slave cylinder and all looked good. Tonight I did the final test. With a 31 spline yoke in the transmission and in 4th gear, my pit crew (wife…) turned the yoke while I pushed the clutch pedal all the way down. Turned fine. Gradually letting out the clutch, it started grabbing and quickly couldn’t be turned any more about halfway up. I will fine tune it once the engine is installed and everything is hooked up permanently. But I’m very satisfied it’s working perfectly. I would judge the clutch effort to be slightly more than the cable-driven King Cobra clutch in my Mk3. But only a little. I’m very happy with that since this is a much more robust 500hp McLeod Super StreetPro Clutch.

For the record, this is a Wilwood pedal box, Wilwood 1-1/8 inch master cylinder and CNC 7/8 inch slave cylinder. This seems to be the setup most guys are going with now. I’m getting slightly over the 1-1/8 throw rating of the CNC slave cylinder. I will reduce the throw to this actual amount when I complete the final installation by adjusting the clutch down a little. Piece of cake with the Wilwood box.

To be fair, I think the setup would have worked exactly like Mike sold it. The extra space of the main bracket is nice, but it probably would have worked slightly closer. It might have been possible to run out of threads on the pushrod though. It’s pretty tight. Also, I did find a post where he showed the pivot on the clutch fork to be installed inboard of where I mounted it. There weren’t any specific instructions on where to mount it. Just said something about one bolt and one hole, which wasn't clear to me. I logically mounted it where the rod end was in the same location as the cable end would have been. Turns out he intended it to be mounted inboard of that. Then the pivot point probably would have lined up without the additional spacers. But I already had the pivot point mounted and painted (as I seem to have to do…). Now that it's done and checked out, I think having the pivot point out a little farther is a good thing though. It gives me slightly more mechanical advantage, resulting in perhaps slightly less clutch effort. Plus I’ve got all the throw that I need.

Here are pictures of the final setup, and a quick video I shot of the setup working. I shook the thing a bit to show the free play when the clutch pedal is all the way out. The included instructions say 1/8 inch. Multiple posts say 1/4 inch. It’s somewhere in that ballpark here for the mockup. I’ll get it all finalized when it’s for real. I’ll also put a tie wrap around the bellows on the slave cylinder so it’s not sliding around.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0117_zpsaaa6a865.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0117_zpsaaa6a865.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0119_zps8a926e18.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0119_zps8a926e18.jpg.html)

Click to play video.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/th_MVI_0114_zpsec012ef2.jpg (http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/MVI_0114_zpsec012ef2.mp4)

Nothing standing in the way of engine installation! That’s next.

[2bking]

Edward, have you or are going to apply any finish to the transmission to keep it looking new? I'm at that decision point in my build.

[edwardb]

Edward, have you or are going to apply any finish to the transmission to keep it looking new? I'm at that decision point in my build.

The TKO as pictured was sprayed with rattle can Dupli-Color DE1636 Ceramic Clear Engine Paint a few weeks ago. I cleaned up the casting flash, set it in the bell housing with the bell masked off, masked off the drain and fill plugs, electrical connections, shifter area and output seal. Then gave it a good spray with the Dupli-Color. I did the same treatment to the T5z in my Mk3, and it still looks new and clean 2+ years later.

[edwardb]

Today was a huge day. Started the day with the engine and trans hanging from the shop crane, ended the day with it safely installed into Mk4 #7750. It went almost exactly as planned. I couldn’t have done it without the help of forum members PhoneGuy and Doctor Moe. Thanks Bob and Gary! You guys were awesome! It was a textbook install. Used the 1/2 ton setting on the HF 2 ton crane, and it was the exact length required to drop over the engine mounts with the radiator left in place. Used the front hole of the lifting plate, which gave almost exactly the right angle to drop it in. We left the chassis on the four wheel dollies, and that worked great. Moved the chassis around instead of the crane with the suspended engine. I had the coilovers cranked all the way down in the front, so the front was a few inches higher than the back. That worked pretty well also. Some lifting required to get the trans over the rear 4 inch tube, but not a big deal. (Easy for me to say. I wasn’t the one lifting at that point.) We covered the sides of the engine compartment with a couple moving blankets. One of the spark plug wire looms got bent slightly against one of the CNC reservoirs. But no damage due to the blankets, and the loom is all straightened and none the worse for wear. The biggest challenge was getting the engine mount pins to drop into the chassis mounts. I started with the engine mounts slightly loose. But we had to loosen them a little more and keep pulling and rocking things around. Finally one side dropped in. More tugging and pulling and moving the transmission around and finally got the other side to drop in. Total time from actual lifting to fully bolted in was about an hour.

After the guys left, buttoned up lot of details. With the transmission frame installed, confirmed I will need a spacer under the transmission mount. About 3/4 inch is what I need. Typical with the TKO. Will be making a call to Forte’s. Did a quick check of the pinion angle with a 3/4 inch thick wood block under the transmission. A little adjustment may be required, but it’s pretty close. Easy to adjust with the Levy 5-link. Installed the headers and confirmed the PS cleared the modified/enlarged footbox. Wasn’t too worried about it, but was happy to see clearance around it. Once I had both headers bolted on, checked the height of the ends of the 4-into-4’s on both sides. It was off slightly, so loosened the engine mount nuts, put a floor jack under the end of the header on the low side, put a little upward pressure on it with the jack, and tightened the nuts back up. I’m now within 1/32 inch on both sides. (Really!) Looks very promising to not have pipe alignment issues. Outstanding. So put the carb and air cleaner back on and took a few final pictures. Lots of details to wrap up before first start, but that’s now not too far away.

Start of the day:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0122_zpsbda4fc96.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0122_zpsbda4fc96.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0123_zps9165b719.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0123_zps9165b719.jpg.html)

Had to open the garage door briefly to move the chassis over. 16 degrees out today, so get that door closed!
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0124_zps86e92fd0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0124_zps86e92fd0.jpg.html)

Lifting the angled engine over the radiator:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0125_zps54915f8e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0125_zps54915f8e.jpg.html)

Getting ready to drop in. Everything is well within load limits, but still makes me very nervous seeing that chunk of change hanging like that.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0128_zps4da720ac.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0128_zps4da720ac.jpg.html)

Starting in:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0131_zps53375f41.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0131_zps53375f41.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0135_zps7bf32a54.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0135_zps7bf32a54.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Carefully continuing in:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0140_zps08251132.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0140_zps08251132.jpg.html)

Now to get the engine mounts to drop in.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0149_zpsd30bd5ad.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0149_zpsd30bd5ad.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0151_zps0700b4e7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0151_zps0700b4e7.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0152_zps1edd6c44.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0152_zps1edd6c44.jpg.html)

It’s in. Now tighten the bolts.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0160_zpsc6642459.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0160_zpsc6642459.jpg.html)

Made it!
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0166_zpsb0001be4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0166_zpsb0001be4.jpg.html)

What a team! Bob on the left, Gary in the middle, and me on the right.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0167_zps328ce265.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0167_zps328ce265.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Great feeling to have it finally installed in the chassis. Real happy with how it turned out.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0168_zps30598924.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0168_zps30598924.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0169_zpsd253c291.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0169_zpsd253c291.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0170_zps1a71e9b5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0170_zps1a71e9b5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0171_zpsaa0c6e68.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0171_zpsaa0c6e68.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0172_zpsb900fc5e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0172_zpsb900fc5e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0174_zps24c149ae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0174_zps24c149ae.jpg.html)

[ckrueger]

Great sequence. You have to love it when a plan comes together. Keep the pictures coming. I hope you don't mind, you are giving me some great ideas on things to do to upgrade my build to the next level. It looks fantastic so far.

[chopthebass]

Looks fantastic!
Are the three stainless steel reservoirs for brake & clutch? Where did you get them from?
I am going for a Whitby power brake kit and it has plastic reservoir and doesn't look nearly as nice. I assume I can upgrade?

[edwardb]

Looks fantastic!
Are the three stainless steel reservoirs for brake & clutch? Where did you get them from?
I am going for a Whitby power brake kit and it has plastic reservoir and doesn't look nearly as nice. I assume I can upgrade?

Thanks! The reservoirs are polished aluminum, and yes they are for brake and clutch. They are from CNC. They have single, double and triple versions like this one. http://www.cncbrakes.com/acc.asp?grp=acc&subgrp=all&series=rrk&subseries= Many guys use these. They are available from forum vendor Mike Forte (where these came from) plus lots of other sources. I also highly recommend their 1459A pressure bleeder cap to go along with their reservoirs. Easiest way I found yet to bleed. There should be no issue to replace the plastic ones you have already.

[edwardb]

Great sequence. You have to love it when a plan comes together. Keep the pictures coming. I hope you don't mind, you are giving me some great ideas on things to do to upgrade my build to the next level. It looks fantastic so far.

Thanks! Mind if you use some of the ideas here? Of course not. I wouldn't for a second suggest everything is original. I've gotten lots of ideas from other builds as well. Just paying forward. Good luck with your build.

[chopthebass]

Thanks! The reservoirs are polished aluminum, and yes they are for brake and clutch. They are from CNC. They have single, double and triple versions like this one. http://www.cncbrakes.com/acc.asp?grp=acc&subgrp=all&series=rrk&subseries= Many guys use these. They are available from forum vendor Mike Forte (where these came from) plus lots of other sources. I also highly recommend their 1459A pressure bleeder cap to go along with their reservoirs. Easiest way I found yet to bleed. There should be no issue to replace the plastic ones you have already.

Thanks Ed. I checked out CNC website. Love the reservoirs! So one is for clutch and two for brakes?

[Jester]

Thanks! Mind if you use some of the ideas here? Of course not. I wouldn't for a second suggest everything is original. I've gotten lots of ideas from other builds as well. Just paying forward. Good luck with your build.

X2 - many great ideas and attention to detail - although my build is complete, I may retrofit my gas cap and thinking of redoing my dash and considering the PS pump

Keep up the great work!

[edwardb]

Thanks Ed. I checked out CNC website. Love the reservoirs! So one is for clutch and two for brakes?

Correct. One for the hydraulic clutch. One for the front brake circuit. One for the rear.

[edwardb]

It’s been a week since the engine was installed, so a week spent working on a lot of related details. First order of business was to finish the transmission mounting. Like most TKO transmission setups, mine also required a spacer at the transmission mount. Initially looked like 3/4 inch was going to be about right, so was going to order the Forte’s spacers that stack to 3/4 inch. But further review showed 1 inch was better. Brought the Moroso pan up better flush to the bottom of the frame tubes, plus gave a better pinion angle setup. So I ordered a 1 x 1-1/4 x 12 chunk of 6061 aluminum from McMaster (less than $11.00 plus shipping) and made the spacer. Installed with no drama, other than more time on my back under the car, and the spacing turned out perfect.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2420_zps720c6ea1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2420_zps720c6ea1.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2427_zpsbd0e0975.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2427_zpsbd0e0975.jpg.html)

I finished up the main power and ground wiring. There was a nice 3/8 threaded lug on the Dart block, right behind the alternator. So cleaned off the paint and put one engine ground strap there. Installed the starter and put another ground strap from one of the starter bolts to the chassis engine mount. Should be good for engine grounds. I bumped the ignition switch very briefly and confirmed the starter engaged and turned the engine normally without any grinding or bad sounds. So wiring and starter alignment all look to be ready to go.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2436_zpsa33efa89.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2436_zpsa33efa89.jpg.html)

I had to adjust the ground wire from the battery to the chassis ground. Before the engine install, had a nice smooth curve from the Breeze box to the chassis. But I miscalculated the location of the crankshaft pulley. So had to shorten the wire a bit and now it’s clear.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2437_zps3e087973.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2437_zps3e087973.jpg.html)

Initially I wasn’t going to use the red insulation caps on the back of the Ron Francis master switch. Even though well under the firewall, and pretty hidden once the body is on and everything is installed, decided I still wasn't excited about the open 12 volt battery terminals on the back of the switch. I could just see myself bumping into them with a wrench or something and making sparks. But it’s basically impossible to get the provided caps on with the large lugs I used. Especially with the one terminal having a wire from each direction. So I slit the back of the caps and just slipped them over the front. Then cut some clearance for the second wire. They wrapped around and fit pretty well. So I put a big glob of electronic grade RTV on the end of the terminals, and pushed the caps into place. They’re bonded there pretty good, and would easily peel off if necessary for service, e.g. a switch failure, which is probably pretty unlikely.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2439_zpsc1580227.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2439_zpsc1580227.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Another detail was the shifter and shift location for the TKO600. I chose to not do the midshift mod. I like the more authentic forward angle shifter. I had purchased the ********** 427 shifter, which I do think looks a little better than the FFR shifter, has a different bend, and angles a bit toward the driver. I mounted the shifter, dropped in a seat, and checked the shifter location. (No I didn’t make any engine noises.) It was pretty good, but maybe a little too far back. Then I realized the TKO does allow the shifter in the rear location to be turned around, moving it forward about 2-1/2 inches. So, peeled it off, and tried that location. It’s perfect! The shifter falls right into my hand while in the seat. The movement is mainly forward/backward, with very little up/down. There’s tons of clearance from the dash. Looks close, but it's completely clear of the 3/4 inch tubes. And it looks authentic too. Permanently installed the shifter in the forward location, and I’m good to go. I just couldn’t be happier with this setup. It’s a little hard to tell from the pictures, but the shift knob is basically right above the midshift location. Don't know that I've seen this exact combination before. It's something that some guys may want to consider. Not sure if I'm going to use the FFR rubber boot, but checked the location and fit.

BTW, the TKO clicks through all five gears and reverse as easy as can be. This is my first TKO, so don't know if this is any different than a pure stock unit. But I'm optimistic it's going to work great. This is the one from Liberty's Gears with their shift mods.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2426_zps0fc55316.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2426_zps0fc55316.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2422_zps3b0e6325.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2422_zps3b0e6325.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2423_zpsa51fe41b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2423_zpsa51fe41b.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2424_zps1ea34288.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2424_zps1ea34288.jpg.html)

Today I drug out the GAS ‘N Performance pipes to check pipe alignment. I had already determined right after the engine install that the height from side-to-side was very close. So temporarily bolted each pipe in place, and sure enough I’m going to need wedges to get them spaced properly. Both sides went in at the tips nearly touching the chassis. I simulated the available wedge spacing with washers. I’ll need one wedge for the PS, and two on the DS. With this, looks like pipe alignment is going to be excellent, although the final proof won’t be until the body is on.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2433_zpsd05e63ce.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2433_zpsd05e63ce.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2434_zpsf899a97d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2001252014/IMG_2434_zpsf899a97d.jpg.html)

No pictures, but ended the day today working on the mechanical throttle linkage. I had gathered all the parts. Now working to get it set up. Looks like it’s going to be a pretty easy install. Main work will be to get the pushrods to their final length and cut some threads. Will update with pictures when completed.

[edwardb]

Early in my build I decided I would be installing a mechanical throttle linkage instead of a throttle cable. Some months ago, I looked through all the threads I could find with examples, and decided what I wanted to do. I ordered and had the parts on hand. The last couple of days I finally have it installed and I’m real happy with how it turned out. Smooth and tight. I chose these parts:

McMaster:
(1) 9095K107 3/8" x 12" stainless rod
(3) 6072K31 1/4" rod end – right hand female 28 tpi
(2) 3370K15 Chrome-Plated Steel Two-Piece Clamp-on Collar 3/8" Bore, 7/8" Outside Diameter, 3/8" Width
(2) 60685K341 PTFE-Lined Aluminum Ball Joint Rod End 3/8"-24 RH Female Shank, 3/8" Ball ID, 13/16" L Thrd

Speedway:
(1) 1750601 Quick release cable or linkage end, 1/4-28 rh
(2) 91018410 Lightweight Aluminum Throttle Linkage Arm, 3/8"

Local Ace/Lowes:
(1) 1/4" Steel Rod - 36" (plain)
(2) 3/8-24 x 1" Bolts, button head
(8) 1/4-28 jamb nuts
(4) 1/4” washers
(1) 3/8” ID grommet

Summit:
Quick Fuel 49-1 Throttle Return Spring Kit

The pictures are pretty self explanatory. I knew it was going to be kind of a pain to locate and then mount the rod ends on the firewall with the dash and wiring installed. And it was. But I had to have the engine installed to get the locations and confirm the geometry. And the wiring and dash were completed before the engine install. I first mounted the rod end in line with the carb, then used that to locate the hole in the foot box, then located the second rod end inside the foot box. I have the FFMetals thicker firewall, so no additional reinforcement is necessary. I used blue Loctite on all the screws, and red Loctite for the linkage arms and clamps on the 3/8 stainless rod. Everything clamped together really tight. Not going anywhere. I used mild steel rod for the two pushrods, and it was pretty easy to cut to length and cut 1/4-28 threads on each end. Here are some pics.

1/4” rod end on the Russ Thompson throttle pedal.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_0177_zps675e0a78.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_0177_zps675e0a78.jpg.html)

Rod end mounted to firewall inside the DS footbox, from the throttle pedal. I kind of chewed up the finish on the rod end when I was tightening it. I won't tell if you won't. It will be completely hidden. Wrapped tape on the other one before putting a wrench on it, and it was fine.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2448_zps1eb957eb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2448_zps1eb957eb.jpg.html)

Rod end mounted to the firewall outside the DS footbox.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2451_zps4c04fcc2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2451_zps4c04fcc2.jpg.html)

Quick release linkage end and return springs on the QF SS-750 carb. Some of you may notice these are reversed. The return springs are meant to go in the top hole, and I was going to use the lower hole for the throttle linkage. But this reduced the throw a lot, and I wasn't happy with the amount of throttle pedal movement from idle to full. Would have been very sensitive. So I reversed the connections. Took a little fiddling, but I think looks OK and works fine.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2450_zpsceaab925.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2450_zpsceaab925.jpg.html)

Finished product.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2449_zps75ce100f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2449_zps75ce100f.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2452_zpsbfee1738.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2452_zpsbfee1738.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Made progress in a number of other areas, but none of them very photogenic.

Got the ride height pretty close (even though it will need to be adjusted repeatedly as more parts are added and the car settles some) and set the pinion angle so I could measure and order the driveshaft. It’s on order at Denny’s Driveshaft. Have to say it’s sure a piece of cake to adjust the pinion angle with the Levy 5-link. Just twist the upper link. Nice.

The e-brake handle is installed and the cables hooked up. Still a little tweaking to do, but it’s close. Used the stock location, which I find perfectly acceptable after driving the Mk3. Had to cut a small flange off the side of the TKO600 that was right in the way of the adjuster spring. The Mustang handle is pretty tight in there with the TKO. Much less room than the T-5 install in my Mk3.

Started setup of the upper and lower radiator hoses. I’m using the FFR supplied corrugated. Used them on my Mk3 and they’ve been fine. Using T-Clamps like on the Mk3. Finally figured out which overflow tank I wanted and got that ordered. Just too much going on in this build to use the 2 qt Canton like I have in the Mk3. Went with a slightly smaller 1-1/4 qt Canton. That should be OK.

Tonight I wrapped up by installing the SS hydraulic hose for the clutch. The hose Forte supplied seemed like it was pretty short. But it worked out fine. I came in low along the bottom of the 2 inch dash tube, and then over to the Wilwood MC. I was going to go higher in the footbox. But chose this path to stay well away from the throttle linkage. Bled the system and checked out the clutch operation. Works just like it was mocked up before engine install. I'm really pleased with how this turned out as well. Nice smooth clutch and throttle. Brakes aren't bled yet.

7-day business trip next week, so won’t be making much progress. Next step is to get the engine electrical hook-ups wired, and first start won’t be too long after.

[edwardb]

Back from a week long business trip to Texas. Unfortunately, with the wind and some ice and snow, didn't feel too much different than MI. Oh well. Today the parts truck (that would be FedEx) brought a nice present. Ordered the driveshaft from Denny's Driveshaft a couple weeks ago. They said 2-1/2 week lead time, which was OK. But here it was already.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2457_zpsf4f16ed6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2457_zpsf4f16ed6.jpg.html)

Took nearly as long to get all the staples out of the box and open as it did to install. Fit perfectly and another item off the build checklist leading to first start.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2461_zpsce437f9b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2461_zpsce437f9b.jpg.html)

I'm working on the final wiring for the engine. This weekend I'll punch through the firewall and get everything routed, connected, and cleaned up. I know I won't get much sympathy from the EFI crowd, but looks a bit of a mess right now.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2458_zpsdc3c8457.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2458_zpsdc3c8457.jpg.html)

[CraigS]

Wow, you do really nice work. My only suggestion is on the pedal linkage. If there is room inside the foot box, you could flip the cross shaft so the levers are pointing upward. That would give a more horizontal angle for the rod going to the carb.

[edwardb]

Wow, you do really nice work. My only suggestion is on the pedal linkage. If there is room inside the foot box, you could flip the cross shaft so the levers are pointing upward. That would give a more horizontal angle for the rod going to the carb.

Thanks for the compliment. Curious why you're suggesting a more horizontal angle for the throttle pushrod to the carb. Appearance only or something else? I played with a lot of combinations and locations and looked at a lot of pictures before deciding on this arrangement. My main motivation for having the levers down was the pushrod from the accelerator to the inside lever. The top pivot point of the Russ Thompson pedal was already well below where the rod end could be mounted. Pointing the levers up would cause that pushrod to be up at an even sharper angle. Somewhere in the 50-60 degrees range. By pointing the levers down both pushrods had the straightest shot to their respective pivot points. It's a bit of a moot point, because I don't have room to flip it over in the footbox. But still wondering about your suggestion.

[edwardb]

Well, today was the day. Buttoned up all the items on my checklist and it was time to see if this thing is alive. Posted a new thread about it here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13443-MK4-7750-First-Start!

After putting the engine in the chassis a few weeks ago, finally completed all the details leading to today. Got all the wiring to the engine installed and hooked up. Installed upper and lower radiator hoses and the overflow tank. Installed the headers and side pipes. Installed the driveshaft and put fluid in all the right places: Transmission, engine and cooling. Today I put fuel in it for the first time (Shell 93 octane V-Power), and also removed the distributor and valve covers and primed the oil pump. Confirmed I had oil at all the rockers and oil pressure indicating on the gauge.

With the checklist done and fire extinguishers at hand, cranked it a couple times with the ignition module switched off. Confirmed I had fuel at the carb, switched on the ignition module, and cranked for real. It immediately fired, but popped and made some unhappy noises. Tried again and the same. Decided my first estimate at the distributor location and timing wasn’t close enough, so gave the distributor a slight twist. Worse that time. Went the other way, and the first video is exactly that moment. I had the camera running on the other false starts, but they’re not pretty. I’m not sharing.

You can see the timing light flashing in the first video. After the first start, looked everything over. All was good except radiator fluid was dripping onto the ground. Quite a bit actually. Checked hoses and the water pump, all looked OK. It was coming out of the main radiator cap filler area. Weird. Tried a few things and still haven’t figured out what’s happening. Put a zero PSI cap on temporarily, and it’s OK for now. Getting a free flow into the overflow tank.

Once that was temporarily under control, started again and set the timing with the timing light. Now we’re getting somewhere. Then shot the second video with a walk around. All the gauge indications so far look perfect (plus they all work!). You can see a little smoke at one point. I think I'm getting a little blow-by, but the rings aren't seated yet so nothing to panic about. Started it again later and let the clutch out on first and a little in second. Works perfect so far. All smooth with no bad noises. Getting an indication on the speedo. Uncalibrated of course. The transmission tunnel cover is off, so kind of interesting to see that little driveshaft and U-joints spinning around.

In summary, obviously a huge relief that it started without any big issues. I asked Jim at FordStrokers to give me a strong but still very streetable setup, and that’s what I think I have. It’s idling comfortably at around 800 rpm. Lumpy but not extreme. Sounds very strong. Throttle response is just instant. And this is without any carb tuning yet. Now can’t wait to drive it. If we ever get some warmer weather and clean streets, go-kart isn’t too far away!

Picture before first start:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/th_IMG_2469_zps081382e1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2469_zps081382e1.jpg.html)

First Start Factory 5 Mk4 Roadster, Video #1 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrGe6_XN4Xk&feature=c4-overview&list=UUO4KYpjJSPNDCmKOFSh6yyA)

First Start Factory 5 Mk4 Roadster, Video #2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VpHok2qPKE&feature=c4-overview&list=UUO4KYpjJSPNDCmKOFSh6yyA)

[edwardb]

The only issue I had was a puddle of green antifreeze on the ground near the front of the engine after the very first start. I was a little scared at first thinking it might be something with the water pump or timing cover. Wouldn’t be happy to be working on that again this early in the game. But closer review showed the leak was from the cap on the Jegs fill neck. In fact if you look closely at the first start video, you can see the green fluid bubbling out occasionally. Couldn’t see anything wrong. But picked up a new Stant 10331 16 PSI vented cap (the same one I used on my Mk3) and a full heat cycle run yesterday showed no leaks. So the shiny Billet Specialties cap gets put into the spare parts pile for now. First start is now officially completed with zero issues to resolve.

Going back a bit, one of the questions I had was which overflow tank to use and where to mount it. With the front battery mount plus the Fast Freddie electric power steering/brake pump, real estate on the front x-brace was limited. I really wanted to use the same 2 quart Canton 80-201 tank as in my Mk3, but just not enough room on either the front x-brace or the side F panel. So I went with a 1-1/4 quart Moroso 63766 tank mounted on the F panel as pictured below. Fit well, although slightly less capacity than I wanted. But I carefully monitored the lower and upper levels during the first starts, and looks like it will be enough.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2475_zpsb6184db8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2475_zpsb6184db8.jpg.html)

Another concern I had (and others have talked about as well) is how loud the Fast Freddie electric power steering pump is. I used Honda power steering fluid as many suggested. Running the pump without the engine running sounded a bit loud, but I wasn’t sure if really a problem. Yesterday while running the engine through a complete heat cycle checking the cap and just monitoring everything really closely, I turned the pump on and let it run. I have Gas-N pipes, so relatively soft sound. Even then, the pump is unheard. Standing right next to it can’t hear it over the engine running. So I’m officially dismissing that as a non-issue. Also noted that with both the pump and cooling fan running, the voltage gauge only slightly drops from the 14+ volts indicated at idle, showing the 100 amp alternator is working well and seems to have adequate capacity. Final test will be with all the lights installed. But looks promising.

As mentioned, did another complete heat cycle run-through with the engine yesterday. It started immediately. Tweaked at the idle speed a little. It’s very happy around 850 rpm. The cooling fan clicked on at exactly the right temp. Juiced it enough times to make sure the neighbors all knew what stage I was at. Started to show some heat in the oil, so that gauge is working as well. Shut it down with no issues or leaks. Did I mention it runs great? Couldn’t be more pleased at this point. I’ve got to get going on my taxes, and have another business trip. So progress will slow a bit. But next steps are to bleed the brakes and get the e-brake finalized. Then it will be ready for go-kart. Have a list of smaller things to do, but then will be fitting the body and get ready to go to paint in the next few months.

[Jazzman]

Thank you so much for your very detailed thread. It really is helping me prepare for my own build. This question would have been much more timely if I had asked it a year ago when you were actually working on your engine. What can I say, I wasn't really consider this project at that time. So . . .

In a post a long time ago, you made the comment that you "had decided to do a 347 stroker" engine. Can you help me to understand your thought process as to why this particular engine configuration as opposed to a 302, 351, 408, 427, etc., all of which can be done in a small block format. Based upon context, it appears that your decision might have stemmed from your prior experiences on your first roadster. What did you learn that led you to the 347?

Quite a bit later you discussed that you were changing the rear end gears. You commented that your new gears should better match your engine. How and why did you decide upon the smaller gear ratio?

I really like what you have done, and am seriously considering following in your engine building footsteps. Thanks for your counsel. Keep up the good work.

[edwardb]

Thank you so much for your very detailed thread. It really is helping me prepare for my own build. This question would have been much more timely if I had asked it a year ago when you were actually working on your engine. What can I say, I wasn't really consider this project at that time. So . . .
In a post a long time ago, you made the comment that you "had decided to do a 347 stroker" engine. Can you help me to understand your thought process as to why this particular engine configuration as opposed to a 302, 351, 408, 427, etc., all of which can be done in a small block format. Based upon context, it appears that your decision might have stemmed from your prior experiences on your first roadster. What did you learn that led you to the 347?
Quite a bit later you discussed that you were changing the rear end gears. You commented that your new gears should better match your engine. How and why did you decide upon the smaller gear ratio?
I really like what you have done, and am seriously considering following in your engine building footsteps. Thanks for your counsel. Keep up the good work.

You’re welcome. Glad you find the thread useful. As I’ve said several times, it’s fun building and it’s fun sharing. I’ve gotten a lot out of other build threads and glad to pay forward where it helps. For your questions, happy to give my responses. I will only say there are no absolutes, so the answers are subjective at best. These are topics that are frequently discussed in multiple threads, so I don’t want to turn my build thread into a debate. I’ll just give my reasoning FWIW.

First, the two topics absolutely go together. The third part of the equation is the transmission you use and which final gear ratio you select. The fourth part of the equation is how you’re going to use the car. A street cruiser might be quite different than one where you want to run quarter mile passes vs. auto-x vs. track use, etc. The engine, transmission, and final drive all work together to give the kind of performance you are looking for.

So for me, the decision path was as follows: The intended use for my car is mostly as a street cruiser. It’s possible it might see a track or strip at some point, but that’s not the primary use. So while performance is important (isn’t it always?) streetability and comfort are also important. I wanted to stay 302 block based as in my Mk3. I like how easy they are to work on, the wide range of aftermarket parts available for “reasonable” prices, they’re relatively light and compact and fit into the Roadster very well. Because they fit with a little room to spare, there are less heat issues for the passengers and the possibility to maximize the footboxes. This is a pretty big issue, because the passenger side footbox in my Mk3 is pretty small and uncomfortable for my wife. She doesn't complain about it, but really wanted to do something better. The Mk4 is better from the start, plus the small block allowed me to make it even longer and wider as explained earlier in the my build thread. I wanted to have more power than the 306 in my Mk3 (for obvious reasons plus to be different) so going with a stroker was a natural progression. 347 used to be pretty much the max, but with aftermarket blocks (DART, Ford Boss, etc.) 363 is now completely practical. But I chose to stay 347. The Mk4 will be roughly 100HP more than the Mk3. A pretty big bump. A lot of guys go to the 351 small block at this point (including progressions to 393, 408, 427, etc.) because it meets some of these same ideas. It’s a good option. But they do get a little tighter to work on, somewhat fewer parts available, there have been even more header fitment issues, and there are some limitations to induction due to the higher deck. None of these are insurmountable at all. Just lead me to stay with what I knew and was comfortable with.

The additional power took me to the path of a TKO vs. the T5z in my Mk3. Driving experience in my Mk3 showed that the 3.55 final drive, while probably perfect for that car, does have a very short 1st gear. I couldn’t imagine it being even shorter with the new build and the additional power. Plus the .63 final drive made 5th gear basically only a highway gear with a big change between 4th and 5th. As you probably saw from the beginning of my build thread, my Mk4 was purchased from the original buyer. It was barely started, but many of the parts were already selected including the rear axle with a 3.73 ratio. For the reasons stated above, when I ran the numbers, it clearly didn’t fit my design ideas. So I knew I was going to change it. Then what to change it to? 3.55 was OK, but 3.27 looked even better. Ran the numbers through a calculator (used one on the Tremec website) and came up with these numbers:

Calculations for T-5Z and current Mk3 (From Tremec calculator)
Engine RPM = 6000, Tire diameter = 25.68 , diff = 3.55
2.95 1st 43.77
1.94 2nd 66.56
1.34 3rd 96.36
1.00 4th 129.12
.63 5th 204.96
RPM @ 70 mph in 5th 2050

Compare this to the calculations for the Mk4 build with TKO-600
Engine RPM = 6000, Tire diameter = 25.68, diff = 3.27
2.87 1st 48.84
1.89 2nd 74.17
1.28 3rd 109.52
1.00 4th 140.18
.82 5th 170.95
RPM @ 70 mph in 5th 2450

For the TKO, you can get either a .64 or .82 final drive. I chose the .82. From this data you can see (1) 1st should be more usable, (2) similar "gap" between 4th and 5th as the other gears, so should be usable more than just at highway speeds, (3) RPM at 70 mph is slightly high (maybe) but still completely reasonable and should be able to put it in 5th and stay there even when speeds drop a little. Plus the reality is that in 2+ years of driving my Mk3, I don't spend a lot of time on the highway. So I chose a more all around 5th gear vs. one that was basically only a highway overdrive gear. Note that while there is math and theory behind this stuff, in the end it's how it feels and drives. I would have been uncomfortable making these kinds of evaluations and decisions without the real world experience of driving the Mk3 for the last couple years. Hopefully before this year is out I will find out how these decisions work in the real world with the Mk4.

Hope that helps. Good luck with your decisions and your build.

[carlewms]

Congratulations on a very successful first start. Your detailed threads are extremely helpful. Carl

[mcwho]

Thats a great build documentation site. I see you have put a lot of work into the build process and those are great photos.

[edwardb]

Finally some progress to report. Last weekend was pretty lost doing taxes and some financial planning stuff. Then I managed to tweak my back and had to lay low a few days. Seems that happens every year or two. Much better now. One of my goals for this weekend was to get the brakes bled and checked out. The whole system hasn't seen fluid since installed, including all my rigid SS brake lines. With the CNC reservoirs, a pressure cap is available. I used that on my Mk3 build, and it was a piece of cake. So used that method again. First though bench bled the master cylinder, and right away something didn't seem right. I was able to get it bled, but it just didn't seem like the fluid was flowing they way I'm used to. Especially the rear circuit. But I continued by then bleeding all four corners with the pressure cap in the sequence PS rear, DS rear, PS front, then DS front. The FFR Wilwoods have a couple unusual aspects. For the rears, the way they're mounted the bleeders are pointed down. So the only way to bleed is to unbolt the calipers, flip them over pointing the bleeders up, bleed, and then bolt back on. For the front 6-piston calipers, there are separate bleeders for each side. At least they point up. (Actually there are bleeders on both the top and bottom.) The recommended procedure is to bleed the outside first, then the inside. Once everything was finished, time to try the pedal. Nothing! No resistance, no piston/pad movement, nothing. Not a soft pedal. Nothing. Re-bled everything just to be sure, no bubbles, nothing changed. So put up a thread on the other forum and received some good advice. Rather than repeat here, this is the thread with pictures, responses form other forum members, and fortunately also the solution:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/410697-bled-brakes-zero-pedal-pressure-help.html

So the good news, after the drama and a lot longer than I was planning it to take, is that I have functioning brakes. As mentioned in the other thread, also checked very carefully for leaks at all the brake line joints. Nothing! All dry. That's another pretty big milestone given all the work on the rigid SS brake lines. It sure looked like the Eastwood flaring tool was making great flares. Now seems to be proven. Will continue to watch of course.

Finished installing the Wilwood e-brake cables, and put all the wheels back on. I actually got out the torque wrench and did the lug nights right. I guess that means I'm optimistic for a go-kart ride pretty soon. When the weather cooperates. Next week I'm going to try to wrap up the e-brake with the handle and boot, work on the wires for the heated seats (they'll be buried in the corner of the cockpit under the carpet and tunnel insulation), and work on the tunnel cover. I have a shifter boot and ring on the way from Mike Everson, so will get the hole cut and that set up. Have those same parts on my Mk3, and they're a bit nicer looking than the FFR standard parts IMO. Not much left before the body goes back on.

[edwardb]

Some progress to report from last week, even with limited build time.

Finally got the Mustang e-brake handle assembly where I wanted it. I'm using the stock location on the side of the transmission tunnel. Lengthened the slots in the bracket a bit to move the whole assembly over for a little better clearance from the TKO600, plus move the handle slightly away from the side of the tunnel. Didn't take much. Only about 1/8 inch and clearance is much better and still lines up with the cables OK. I'm using the FFR boot and Mike Everson's e-brake handle cover and button. I'll add those parts after the carpet is in. But for now the handle assembly is bolted in. Hooked up the cables and pulled the pin on the e-brake tensioner. It snapped into place, and I have e-brakes. All seems to be working exactly right.

Another bit of an issue I was having was setting the timing. I have a nice INNOVA 5568 digital timing light. I was able to set the base timing pretty OK during first start, even though it was bouncing around a bit. Last weekend I tried to confirm the timing again and also set the advance curve in the MSD distributor with the different springs and bushings. The timing mark was just bouncing all over place, would disappear and come back, settle at really strange places I didn't believe, etc. So just gave up. There is known issue with certain timing lights and the MSD ignition boxes. Some apparently are too sensitive and get confused with the multiple sparks. That and the digital features (tach, dial-back, etc.) just don't work. I saw this a little on my Mk3 with the older analog 6AL box, but was still able to set timing OK. But the digital 6AL-2 box in my Mk4 is now officially not workable. After a bunch of Google searches, found this was a very common problem especially with the newer MSD boxes. The recommendation was to get a cheap analog light, and many recommended the self-powered light from Flaming River. So got one from Summit and tried again yesterday. Not quite as bright, but timing mark is rock solid and a piece of cake to set. Turned out the installed MSD bushing was right, and changed to the light color blue springs, and I'm getting the advance curve I'm looking for. (Have I mentioned lately how great the engine runs? Man, can't wait to get it out of the garage.) Also noticed my odometer is showing .4 miles now. I guess I've been spinning the wheels with it up on the jack stands a little more than I realized.

Last thing yesterday was to cut the hole in the transmission cover for the shifter. Received the shifter boot and ring from Mike Everson. Those are a perfect match with the ********** 427 shifter. Really happy with how that's going to work. But now I'm away on business for a week, so progress stops. Weather is looking like it might finally take a turn warmer when I get back home. Not only should get to go-kart the Mk4, but get the Mk3 out of storage and back among the living. I hope so.

[DaleG]

Getting real close!

[carlewms]

Thanks for the heads up on the timing...I have the new MSD 6AL box and EZ EFI and still have all that to sort out.

Carl

[edwardb]

Lost some build days on business travel, but still making progress. These builds are a bit like building a house. Early on, the changes are big over relatively short times. But later on, the time is spent on smaller details that don’t look as impressive. Since the last update these are the things I’ve been working on. Small steps but progress.

Located and cut the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel cover. I had installed the filler piece with flush hammer rivets before powder coat. Now cut out the hole to match the reversed rear location on the TKO. I installed 10-32 nutserts for the shifter trim ring. Happy how it turned out with the ring and boot from Mike Everson.

I decided to not put cup holders in the transmission tunnel cover like I did on the Mk3 build. Not very authentic, and I’m surprised how many people point that out. Plus the depth is somewhat limited with the TKO. Instead I’m installing a reproduction ash tray from **********. Without the insert, it provides a little bit of storage for ear plugs. Probably not much more. The ash tray isn’t sealed at all, and there’s quite a bit of air pressure in the trans tunnel. So I made a little box out of .025 aluminum from HD. I’ll put some black rattle can on it and rivet to the bottom of the tunnel cover. I put a 1/8 strip on the bottom of the box, and tapped for the two mounting screws in the bottom of the ash tray. BTW, still plan to have cupholders. Probably folders of some kind.

Another project was the trans tunnel vents. Have these on my Mk3 and I’m very satisfied with how they work. I originally saw this idea several years ago on the mk4build.com site. I made the scoops out of .040 aluminum, and had them powder coated with everything else. This weekend, I located and drilled the holes for the Billet Specialties vent assemblies. I cut off the end of the vent tube (the part with the threads for the bezel) and glued into holes drilled in the tunnel sides. I’ll pop rivet the scoops in place next week. Things were a little tighter for the scoops with the TKO compared to the T5 in my Mk3. But there was enough room and turned out well.

Well, I’ve probably really jumped the shark now, but I’ve decided to add a stereo to the build. Been thinking about it for awhile, and now I’ve decided to go for it. Not sure how much I’ll use it while driving, but may be nice to have while parked at shows, etc. We’ll see. But if I'm going to do it, now is the time. After some research, reading reviews, etc., picked some Polk Audio marine rated speakers for the rear cockpit wall. I ordered an Infinity marine rated head unit that will fit in the glovebox. Has AM, FM, Bluetooth, aux and USB. I’ll show more details when I have something to show.

Working on installing the wires for the seat heaters and now speaker wires. It's actually warming up a bit. Hope to be able to go-kart in the next few weeks.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2529_zps36d65bd8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2529_zps36d65bd8.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2530_zps6fb00e24.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2530_zps6fb00e24.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2532_zpsc112cecf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2532_zpsc112cecf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2533_zps821f8d97.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2533_zps821f8d97.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2531_zpsd6aa5a63.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2531_zpsd6aa5a63.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2535_zps9db8739e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2535_zps9db8739e.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Rest of the pictures:


http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2536_zpsd962baf5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2536_zpsd962baf5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2538_zpsbc76604b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2538_zpsbc76604b.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2527_zps2aa710e5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2527_zps2aa710e5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2528_zps7c45cbfe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2003302014/IMG_2528_zps7c45cbfe.jpg.html)

[VdubJoe]

If I may where did you get the brake handle assembly and did it come with the equalizer bar. [ I think that's what it's called ] Im looking at going that route instead of the FFR one. That's what we used at the build school and worked great.

Joe

[edwardb]

If I may where did you get the brake handle assembly and did it come with the equalizer bar. [ I think that's what it's called ] Im looking at going that route instead of the FFR one. That's what we used at the build school and worked great. Joe

The handle is a Ford PN F5ZZ 2780 AA. I believe used on 87-93 Mustang, but that doesn't matter too much. Just search for the PN. I found this new one on eBay for about $75. Note that it had a vinyl/plastic handle and cover that I removed. The shiny part at the end is where I had to sand it down a bit to fit the Mike Everson handle and button that will be installed later. The equalizer is a Ford PN E7ZZ 2A603A. Got it from Mark Reynolds at Breeze. With the Wilwood rear brakes I had to get actual Wilwood cables. The ends at the calipers are slightly different. But everything fits up OK and is working well.

[VdubJoe]

Thanks found one .

Joe

[edwardb]

Well today was the day. Everything was far enough long plus the weather cooperated. So took the go-kart out of the garage and up and down a side street in our sub probably 5-6 times. The streets are still a little dirty from our ridiculous winter, so I managed to throw quite a collection of small stones and dirt into the cockpit, trunk, etc. That’s about the only negative thing I can say. Everything else was absolutely perfect. Clutch engaged a little higher than the Mk3, but other than that is great. Nice and smooth with reasonable effort. Never over 20-25 mph, so can’t draw too many conclusions. Although not broken in or bedded, the brakes seem to work really well. The hydroboost powered Wilwoods (read earlier in my build thread for the background) felt great. Not overly sensitive. I think they will be fine for my mainly street driving. The power steering is a bit light, so may want to turn down the boost a bit. But still too early to change anything. Engine ran great (again). Was near full water temp after 20 minutes or so of messing around. Oil pressure still looked great. Oil was just starting to get a little temp. Back in the garage with not a drip or run anywhere. The engine is really lively and felt very strong. I think I’m going to like this thing!

Here are a couple videos. First is a walkaround just before backing it out. Not the greatest quality, but still maybe interesting.

First Go-Kart Factory 5 Mk4 Roadster, Video #1- YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QswvzTH-5w4&feature=c4-overview&list=UUO4KYpjJSPNDCmKOFSh6yyA)

This is one of the back and forth runs in our sub. Can’t tell too much, but all good.

First Go-Kart Factory 5 Mk4 Roadster, Video #2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q71nF_yEHZ8&feature=c4-overview&list=UUO4KYpjJSPNDCmKOFSh6yyA)

Finally, had to post this. Today I also decided to get the Mk3 out of off-site storage and back into the garage where it belongs. Now life is starting to make sense again after our long winter.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0261_zps9eefab15.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0261_zps9eefab15.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Time for another update. Absolutely beautiful 70 degree and sunny day in Michigan today. About time, and we earned it. Had two nice cruises in my Mk3. One solo, and one with my wife. Car is running great after its winter hibernation. Was great to be back out again. I have the best of both worlds. A car to drive and another one to work on. I'm very lucky... Anyway, back to the build. I don’t regret my decision to add a stereo system to my build, but (as usual) is turning out to be more work than I expected. Not exactly new news there. As mentioned before, after a lot of searching decided on an Infinity head unit that fits into my Alex glovebox. Then selected some Polk Audio 6-1/2 inch coax speakers for the rear cockpit wall. These are top rated speakers, and sound great. But just barely fit. I placed them as wide as they could go without running into the roll bar stubs. Turns out that was about right. They are slightly behind the seats, but still pretty exposed. First listen was good, but decided could be better. So adding an Alpine 190 watt amp and 5-1/2 inch front speakers. Talk about scope creep! The Alpine unit is nice because it’s real compact and uses standard wiring. Nothing special. But gives a little added power and punch. I could tell the difference immediately when I hooked it up. Here are pictures and description of progress made so far. Still a ways to go for the installation to be complete.

6.5 inch speakers on the rear cockpit wall. They look pretty prominent right now. But with the seats and carpeting hope they don't look too out of place. I've got some carpet pieces behind them to simulate the spacing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2540_zps9c09741f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2540_zps9c09741f.jpg.html)

Then from inside the trunk. Just fit.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2547_zps5f12cd5a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2547_zps5f12cd5a.jpg.html)

Here’s the head unit in the glovebox. Just fits, but I think it’s perfect there. Just barely sticks out the back and mounts with the supplied bracket. Since I don’t have a heater (just heated seats) room for everything in this area. Before I cut the glovebox and finalized this location, I wired the head unit and amp in this location wired to the rear speakers. Then started and ran the engine. I was a little worried about noise being this close to the MSD box, engine, etc. All good. No stray noises. I suspect the MSD filter capacitor I installed to protect the MSD box is also keeping noise out of the radio. It should. That’s the main thing it’s designed to do.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2543_zps0bf6dd4c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2543_zps0bf6dd4c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2541_zps9c09741f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2541_zps9c09741f.jpg.html)

This is the Alpine amp that will mount next to the head unit behind the glove box.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2553_zps12ff6e1e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2553_zps12ff6e1e.jpg.html)

It would have been way easier to install the rear speaker wires while I was doing the rest of the wiring before the aluminum panels and drivertrain was installed. I still probably could have taken them through the transmission tunnel, but I’ve had enough time on my back under the car. Plus I needed to install the wires for my heated seats anyway. So this was just a little more. What I did was plow some troughs in the Lizard Skin and glue the Monster speaker wire in it. Then will brush some Lizard Skin back over to bury. Same as the seat heater wires. There will be a slight bump along the back wall, but it’s completely behind the seats. The carpet will cover everything. Not done yet, but this is where I’m at so far. You can't tell from the pictures, but the wire is just slightly above the level of the Lizard Skin.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2545_zps74c59bfe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2545_zps74c59bfe.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2546_zpsb608dbd6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2546_zpsb608dbd6.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

One other minor thing I completed was the trunk light mounting. I added a wire to the courtesy light circuit and pulled into the trunk when doing all the wiring. I made a bracket and used the same LED light as in the footwells. I’ll wire a pin switch probably on the trunk hinge, so that it lights when the trunk is opened. I tried to minimize how much it hangs into the trunk opening, since the space is so limited. It still gives a decent amount of light. A minor touch, but an easy addition to make the car more friendly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2549_zpsa2212594.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2549_zpsa2212594.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2551_zpsf0cff74f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2004202014/IMG_2551_zpsf0cff74f.jpg.html)

I have a list of all the things needed to be done before the body goes on for final fitting. Still quite a few items, but I’m making progress.

[edwardb]

In an earlier update, I described making a box to fit up the ash tray. (Is that PC to say any more? How about small storage bin?) I brushed some Lizard Skin on the inside of it, then first glued to the bottom of the transmission tunnel cover. Then added four rivets around the perimeter. Provides a solid mounting, plus is sealed from air pressure and sound.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2554_zpsb8c802b7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2554_zpsb8c802b7.jpg.html)

With that done, proceeded to silicone and rivet the transmission tunnel cover in place. I know many choose to make this part removable, so may not agree with this choice. But I’m OK with it. I’m going to add a layer of Dynamat over the whole tunnel before carpet. Did the same thing on my Mk3 and I like how it turned out.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2556_zps93ef05ad.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2556_zps93ef05ad.jpg.html)

Then, brushed Lizard Skin over the rear speaker and heated seats wiring. In my last update, I described how I dug out a tunnel in the original Lizard Skin layers. Then glued the wires into the tunnel, and now covered with a new layer of the sound and heat Lizard Skin. There’s a slight bump along the back cockpit wall and under the dash. All the rest is in corners. The carpet will completely hide.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2557_zps4cac939d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2557_zps4cac939d.jpg.html)

Since I put the stereo head unit inside the Alex glove box, I wanted an easy way to open/close the glove box door. As supplied by Alex, the glove box doesn’t have a catch or stop. The only thing is the key lock, and I didn’t want to use that every time. So after a little looking around, decided to use a latching magnetic catch. Found a decent quality black one (same color as the glovebox interior) at Lowes. Took my time finding exactly the right location and square to the opening, and bolted in place. Since the glove box interior curves down, sanded an angle on the base of the catch so it sits nearly square with the opening. Looks perfect there like it belongs.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2560_zpsbad64433.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2560_zpsbad64433.jpg.html)

The only thing I didn’t like about the catch supplied by Lowes was the metal plate that the magnetic part sticks to was a very “kitchen cabinet looking” square metal plate. Plus was dark brown vs. black. Just would have looked really out of place on the glove box door. So found a steel washer and added a countersink to the hole for a small flat head screw. Then polished both up and attached to the door at the right place. Looks better than the plate. I have to say this works fantastic. I would recommend this catch for anyone with an Alex box. Close the door and push it a little, and the magnetic catch latches and pulls it into place. To open, push again and it pops out plenty far to grab the edge of the door to open. I will use the lock when security is a concern (same as the trunk) but for normal use, this works great and is easily accessible without using the key.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2574_zps4ee77d57.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2574_zps4ee77d57.jpg.html)

Next thing up was to add the front speakers. I found some 5-1/2 inch marine rated Polk Audio’s that just fit into the sills by the doors. I pulled the wires up through the 2 inch tubes in front of the doors. I put some shrink sleeving over the wires where they go through the tubes, and added some black silicone to seal. These speakers don’t come with speaker grills (strange) but found these on eBay. Fit perfectly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2565_zps1901c7b9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2565_zps1901c7b9.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2566_zps14a11549.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2566_zps14a11549.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Next up was to install the 190 watt RMS Alpine amp. Put it behind the glovebox, and wired everything up including the speakers. The speakers will sound better with the body installed, but for now the system sounds really good. The front speakers are not in an ideal location, but the system sounds quite a bit better than it did with only rear speakers. The only detail I don’t have worked out yet is the antenna. Bought a small marine antenna that is basically just a length of coax with a connector. Reception is not good at all. More work to do. I will mainly use Bluetooth (Pandora, etc.) and my MP3 player, but still would like the tuner to work.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2562_zps14883198.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2562_zps14883198.jpg.html)

Finally, also wrapped with the wiring for the heated seats and made/installed the harness for the wipers. I punched the wiper harness through the firewall and have it ready for the wiper motor when I install it later. I did confirm that everything works, including wiper high/low/park. Yea!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2564_zpsfe4e8ac2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005042014/IMG_2564_zpsfe4e8ac2.jpg.html)

Only a few more details and the body will be going on. Have some family stuff going on the next few weeks plus hope the weather cooperates for some cruising and car shows. So progress will slow a bit. But still on track to get to the painter this summer.

[edwardb]

Still plugging away. Just a couple more things to do before the body goes on, hopefully for the last time before paint.

First, finished up the stereo installation. It was a little more work than I expected, but it's done and I'm glad I did it. Played with several antennas. None work great, but this little powered one was the best and this location worked the best. I tried everywhere.

This isn’t much of a picture, but it’s a pretty big milestone because now electrical is completely done. All circuits are wired, everything works, I’m good to go. Have to plug in the trunk light and hang the exterior lights and snake the license plate harness when the body is on, but those are easy final steps.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2576_zps7e65a94e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2576_zps7e65a94e.jpg.html)

Put on all the bulb seal. Pretty easy step.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2577_zps0520169d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2577_zps0520169d.jpg.html)

Most of my time has been spent with final body details. One was the side louver openings and setting up the mounts for the louvers. I got in on one of the group buys for the stainless steel louvers from Performance Automotive in Florida. Nice pieces. But one thing, they are HEAVY. So no industrial strength Velcro or whatever is going to hold them. So I decided to bond 10-32 perforated base studs from McMaster to the body with HSRF. But the challenge is getting them perpendicular and in exactly the right position so the louvers are centered over the opening. First order of business was to clean up the pre-cut louver openings to the right size and the same angle as the louvers. From there, I quickly made two holding fixtures out of some scrap shelf material. Figured out the location for each of the studs matching the mounting holes in the louvers.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2585_zpsac4b39f7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2585_zpsac4b39f7.jpg.html)

Roughed up the mounting area in the body with 40 grit paper, applied HSRF to the mounting area and to the studs, and pushed them into place held in the opening with a stick and wing nut.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2582_zps4f56974a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2582_zps4f56974a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2580_zpsc4f62491.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2580_zpsc4f62491.jpg.html)

Some of you are shaking your heads right now (I know you are...) thinking this is really overkill. But it didn’t take long and worked exactly as I hoped. Once the HSRF set, removed the fixtures, and the studs are mounted perfectly. Ground off the excess HSRF and good to go. (Nice view of our Cleveland Pear in the front yard through the opening. Just starting to bloom.)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2587_zpsf5cb6db2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2587_zpsf5cb6db2.jpg.html)

Both sides fit exactly right. I will cut off the excess thread length a little.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2594_zpsd5b7cffc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2594_zpsd5b7cffc.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finished product. These pictures were taken tonight as the sun was setting, and the SS looks almost black. Trust me. They’re like shiny silver mirrors.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2595_zpsd1ffb32a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2595_zpsd1ffb32a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2596_zps7082ab0f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2596_zps7082ab0f.jpg.html)

Finished the night by cleaning up and applying a coat of Zaino to good old Mk3 5125. She still looks good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2597_zps775093ff.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2005182014/IMG_2597_zps775093ff.jpg.html)

Little more glass work to do, and next update should have the body on the chassis.

[edwardb]

This afternoon my son and I dropped on the body for (hopefully!) the last time before going to paint. Still some tweaks to get it where I want, but it’s on and another milestone. But quite a bit of work since the last update to get to this point.

First on the body, temporarily mounted and confirmed all exterior lights. Had to adjust some of the FFR cut-outs and holes a bit. Then cleaned up the openings for the radiator, oil cooler, brake cooling ducts. All required some trimming from the back side to get everything straight and parallel. Then flipped the body over and used HSRF to fill the back of the wheel well openings to make them have a more rolled appearance. In the process, found some voids in the glass along the underside of the cockpit by the dash. Patched those with HSRF as well. If you time it right, you can sand the HSRF before it gets completely rock hard and it’s not too bad.

Finally, back to the chassis, confirmed tire pressure and adjusted ride height. Then worked on front alignment. It’s way easier with the body off. Not the last I’ll mess with the alignment, but I was able to get the camber at -.5, caster at +8, and toe-in at 1/16 inch. Used the Fasttrax for the camber and caster, and I’m pleased they’re dialed in pretty well. Used the string method for the toe-in, and not quite as happy with that. May spring for some toe plates. Seems that would be more reliable. Anyway, at that point, ready to drop on the body.

With the usual pushing and pulling, the body is in place. This is the first time with the engine in, dash on, all the sheet metal, etc. It’s starting to look like something. The dash location looks perfect. The fit around the back is also really good. I’m not quite as happy with the front, but will tweak some more. I feel like I’ve got a little too much gap between the tops of the front tires and the wheel well openings. The ride height is at 4 inches front, 4.5 inches back. May need to lower a bit, but won’t do anything yet. The hood and trunk lids look like they’re going to fit well. Haven’t tried the doors yet. Too soon to give a verdict about the header openings. Definitely will need some trimming, but until I add more parts, won’t do anything.

Now on to my punch list of stuff before paint. Here are some pictures:

Trimmed openings:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2607_zps38d175e0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2607_zps38d175e0.jpg.html)

Wheel well openings:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2604_zps12644f85.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2604_zps12644f85.jpg.html)
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2602_zps5c6bc23e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2602_zps5c6bc23e.jpg.html)

Working on alignment, with my high tech trash bag turn plates. Actually works quite well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2599_zpse17a8d91.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2599_zpse17a8d91.jpg.html)

Body on!!!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2610_zps792fbfed.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2610_zps792fbfed.jpg.html)

Dash area. Fit turned out really well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2618_zps6788d9a6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2618_zps6788d9a6.jpg.html)

Engine compartment looks a little different:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2608_zpscfcd626d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2608_zpscfcd626d.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Rear wheel opening:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2611_zpsc052aaf1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2611_zpsc052aaf1.jpg.html)

Front wheel opening:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2612_zps8cff623c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2612_zps8cff623c.jpg.html)

Lots more to do, but this is real progress.

[edwardb]

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted any updates. Been really busy with family stuff plus with the warmer weather finally a couple of events to attend with the Mk3. Last few days have been getting ready to head off to the London show. But still plodding along.

In my last update, I described dropping the body on for hopefully the last time. Well, after checking everything over, turned out it needed to come back off for a few adjustments. There were 5-6 things, most pretty minor and maybe could have been done with the body on. But the biggest issue was the DS front chassis horn containing the lower radiator mount and front body mount. It was nearly 3/8 inch off to the outside. The front bolts were way off plus the body mount was interfering with the brake cooling inlet. This isn’t an unusual problem. I had to “persuade” the same area on my Mk3 a bit as well. But best with the body off, radiator mount removed, etc. Takes a couple pretty good swings with a wood block and dead blow hammer, and didn’t want to try that with the body on. So lifted it off with the hooks I have in my garage ceiling and small pulleys. Really not hard and mainly able to do it without help. Once the body was lifted, made all the necessary adjustments. One other thing I did was to round off the four corners on each of the front body mounts, and touch up the PC with some POR15. Those corners were really sharp, and digging up the inside of my body like crazy every time I took it on and off.

The body is back on now. It's reasonably well centered and I’m happy with the alignment of the wheels in the openings, hood opening, etc. I have the back bumper mounts in place and working on the front. I pulled the sills under the body and taped temporarily with some duct tape. Then dropped on the hood, trunk and doors. Nothing is trimmed or finalized yet, but I can see already (again) how much improved all this is over my Mk3. I really sweated out the trunk lid on the Mk3 (and so did my painter) but it’s nearly perfect already. Once I get the front bumper mounts done, I’ll put it back up on jack stands, take off the wheels, and mount the splash guards. Then the windshield and finalize all the panels. So far I'm optimistic my header and side pipe alignment is going to be OK. We'll see about that soon enough as well. Still hoping to get to paint in the next month or two. Didn't have any takers for my raised body buck. Instead of throwing it away though, broke it down and put in the rental storage unit where I have my trailer. Who knows? I may need it again...

One other brief mention. In an earlier update I described doing my front end alignment and that I wasn’t particularly happy with the string method for setting toe. I picked up some Heidts TA-003 toe-in alignment plates and a Bosch magnetic laser level. The Heidts plates are steel (some of the other brands are aluminum) so the magnetic laser level sticks and works great to check the front/back track. Basically an electronic version of the string method. Plus of course the plates and provided tape measures work to measure and adjust toe-in. I tried out the new parts on my Mk3 and found that I had too much front toe-in. Readjusted and am able to repeat the 1/16 inch toe-in measurement easily and quickly. I can’t tell that it drives any differently, but no doubt a bit easier on the tires. I’ll post some pictures of this in use on my Mk4 when it’s back on its wheels.

Couple of pics. Body temporarily removed for (hopefully) final adjustments:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2621_zps143ec369.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2621_zps143ec369.jpg.html)

Kind of dark, but this is the front chassis mounting plate that’s now moved over and rounded off a bit:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2622_zpsb42d9fc6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2622_zpsb42d9fc6.jpg.html)

No progress for the next few days. Off to London tomorrow morning! Looking forward to it. Hopefully the weather will cooperate. Stormy and wet here this AM.

[edwardb]

It’s been awhile since my last update. Progress nearly stopped for several weeks. My oldest son and family visited and we’ve been out of town for the last several weekends. They live out of the country, so we don’t get to see them too often. Great time to catch up with them and the grandkids. Priorities! The last week or so have been back at it a bit.

Finalized mock-up of the front and rear over-riders. The back uses the coupler and threaded rod mod, to eliminate having to drop the tank. I’m using the ********** 3/4 inch polished aluminum tubing vs. the FFR supplied 5/8 inch tubing. I really like the thicker look. For the front, I’m using the ********** grommets and 3/4 inch tubing. The front of the body will just float in the grommets vs. being captured by the sleeves. This has been discussed a lot in several threads, with many reporting good results. Now that I have it all bolted in place, it’s rock solid. I’m more than pleased with it. Pictures and explanations:

This is one of the front over-riders. I’m not using the hoop. I like the look better without. Took a little work with the sleeves and angles to get the over-riders on the same angle as the radiator opening, but turned out OK.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2634_zpsfe06e8ef.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2634_zpsfe06e8ef.jpg.html)

I’m planning to use the Dark Water Customs splitter. Doesn’t seem to be any real practical value other than maybe improving cooling a bit. But (again) I like the look. This is where the mounting bracket lined up. Same on the other side. Bolts to the back of the Q-J/over-rider bolts. I will space it back a bit, but width between the two brackets is just right.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2635_zps94b12df0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2635_zps94b12df0.jpg.html)

DS front over-rider. Here you can see the ********** grommets even better. I spent quite a lot of time getting the nose in just the right place height-wise and side-to-side. Then enlarged the holes to fit the grommet and have the 3/4 inch tube in just the right place. Both sides turned out pretty good. One other trick. Since the 3/4 inch tube is quite a bit bigger than the 7/16 threaded rod, something needs to be done to keep the rod centered. Especially since it’s holding the body down. I found some bronze bushings at McMaster (pn 6391K192) that are a perfect press-in fit to the tubing. Can’t see ‘em, but trust me they’re in there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2636_zpsb1a27825.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2636_zpsb1a27825.jpg.html)

Rear bumper hoop and over-riders. Nothing too special here. I did space the bumper out 2-1/8 inches, slightly more than normal, to give reasonable clearance for the key into the trunk handle.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2637_zpsb607f7b0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2637_zpsb607f7b0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2638_zps2f7691f6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2638_zps2f7691f6.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

So the big news, for me anyway, is that I’ve had a lift on my wish list ever since my first build. Some months ago I did some research of available lifts, also taking into account my pretty normal suburban 21 x 22 garage and wife's Durango has to go in during the winter. Not negotiable. 4-post was out. Just took up too much space, and actually not all that easy to work under. The main advantage is storing two cars in the place of one. But my ceiling height, or more importantly garage door height, makes that nearly impossible for me anyway. So looked at two posts. Found one, the DanMar MaxJax 2-post lift, that seemed about ideal for my situation. Not super high, but about as high as I could go. 2-post has some advantages and barely fits into my garage. So I had one on my “watch list” and discovered Costco had a several day sale for $1,999 including shipping. The best price I’d seen. So placed my order a little over a week ago. Danmar called the same day, and said it was shipping and would be delivered on July 2. On July 1, Conway called for delivery the next day. Great service. Spent some of July 4th finding the best layout. Yesterday, rented a hammer drill and finished the installation. My house is relatively new and has a 6 inch garage floor. Confirmed the thickess when I drilled the 10 holes. According to the instructions, this is more than adequate for the 6,000 lb rating. Had a leaky fitting, turned out to be operator error. With that fixed, have it working. The install was pretty easy. Just a lot of heavy parts. Now this is going to be nice! Can’t believe I’m two builds in and finally get to stop crawling around on the garage floor. I’m going to like finishing up the Mk4 standing or sitting upright. Will be great for ongoing maintenance and see what happens with future builds.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2641_zps3495c6cc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2641_zps3495c6cc.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2644_zpsc60e2629.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2644_zpsc60e2629.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2645_zps573e1c6e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2645_zps573e1c6e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2646_zps21c0628c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2646_zps21c0628c.jpg.html)

Can’t believe I get to put in the wheel well liners (elephant ears) standing up:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2647_zps3d1ce2ae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/IMG_2647_zps3d1ce2ae.jpg.html)

Now to keep charging ahead to get ready for paint. Was hoping to take a week off in July, but work schedule filled up plus another week of travel.

[Markie D]

Good Morning,
A friend of mine sent me the link to your MK4 build. I've just ordered my MK4, it should be here in mid October, I can't wait to get started. This will be my first attempt at building an entire car. Looking through your post it seem a bit intimidating, but I think I can do it. I'm planning on attending the Build School in late October or early November. I was reading through your post, and noticed in your very first comments that theres a new profile for the body buck. I've tried to locate this but no luck so far, can you direct me in the right direction, or is it the body buck drawing in the back of the assembly manual? I've joined the Houston Cobra Club a few days ago. Looks like they will have their monthly meeting in a couple of week which I plan on attending. Thank-you for your time, by the way, your Cobra build looked AMAZING!!!

Regards,
Mark Danna

[edwardb]

Good Morning,
A friend of mine sent me the link to your MK4 build. I've just ordered my MK4, it should be here in mid October, I can't wait to get started. This will be my first attempt at building an entire car. Looking through your post it seem a bit intimidating, but I think I can do it. I'm planning on attending the Build School in late October or early November. I was reading through your post, and noticed in your very first comments that theres a new profile for the body buck. I've tried to locate this but no luck so far, can you direct me in the right direction, or is it the body buck drawing in the back of the assembly manual? I've joined the Houston Cobra Club a few days ago. Looks like they will have their monthly meeting in a couple of week which I plan on attending. Thank-you for your time, by the way, your Cobra build looked AMAZING!!! Regards, Mark Danna

Hey Mark. Thanks for the kind words. Fun to share, as I've said several times. And always interesting to see where this ends up and glad to hear people find it useful. Congratulations on your upcoming delivery and build. Just take it a step at a time and ask for help whenever you need to. The build school is an hour or so from where I live, although I haven't attended. Just jumped right in... This link to the other forum has info on the revised rear body buck profile. The profile isn't super critical as long you're getting good support. But might as well make it as close as possible if you're bulding one. Good luck! http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/259710-body-buck-mk4.html#post2387270

[edwardb]

This has been a busy summer with work, travel and family activities so haven’t made the progress I had hoped. Plus I’m always amazed how long some tasks seem to take. Anyway, enough excuses. Have made a number of steps forward since the last update. Plus I've been able to sneak in a few vacation days and really focus. Of particular note (for me anyway) is all of the work done for this update was with my new 2-post lift. Not sure how I’ve gone this long without that. Boy does it make things easier.

I had a drivershaft loop on my “maybe” list, and when a thread for the Metco piece started several weeks ago, looked like a nice option. Bolts on plus is very substantial. Put my name on the list and received it a couple weeks ago. It did not disappoint. Bolted up in minutes. I have a one inch spacer under the rear of the TKO, which is a little more than some. But with the 5-link rear suspension, gives the best all around pinion angle setup. So I did add some steel spacers to center the driveshaft a little better. I ran the suspension through the full range of movement, and it probably would have worked without the spacers. But they keep things centered up really well. Simple steel spacers from my local Ace hardware along with some longer grade 8 bolts. Note the instructions from Metco mentioned this may be required in some cases.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2655_zps27c2a46a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2655_zps27c2a46a.jpg.html)

Next up was the four splash shields, aka elephant ears. I messed around with these a bunch during my Mk3 build, and was much the same this time. The difference though was all four eventually worked. On the Mk3, I gave up on the rear ones and made all new. This time around for the rears, I did have to clip the corner on the DS to clear the edge of the fuel tank. This profile does barely show from the back under the car, so trimmed the PS the same amount. (OK, I know that’s pretty anal…). On the PS, the shield fit best when pushed a little back into the opening, but then ran into the fuel filler cap area. So trimmed around that. For the fronts, they fit pretty well. Did have to trim the bottom a bit, and also cut a hole for the MC on the DS. With the hydroboost it just barely goes through the splash shield. Thought about a cover of some kind but don't think I'll bother. Installed all four shields with 10-32 nutserts and 10-32 SS button head screws. The nutserts for the rears are in the chassis side. I installed nutserts in the front F-panels before installing them. Nothing very photogenic here, but this is the front DS:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2654_zps6f1605ae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2654_zps6f1605ae.jpg.html)

Next up was the windshield. I installed the Whitby SS inserts replacing the soft and pretty fragile brass inserts. Unfortunately, the holes didn’t line up exactly right, but there’s enough length that I was able to drill and tap new ones about 1/2 inch offset from the existing ones. They weren’t off much, but they need to be dead on for the screws to go properly into the countersink on the windshield side posts. Then the provided 10-32 screws weren’t long enough. Had a couple other things I needed from McMaster, so added some 10-32 chrome plated oval head countersink screws and used those. I adjusted the length of each one so they just bottomed in the holes while still tightening the side post. It’s kind of a tedious process. But with only 1-1/2 to 2 turns of threads engaged (at best) needs to be pretty accurate. Then cut off the side posts, marked and drilled the holes, enlarged the holes in the body as needed, and the windshield bolted in pretty nicely. The spacing on the arms to the body mounts was nearly dead on, so no spacers were necessary. The seal needs to settle in a bit, but that’s pretty normal. I put the windshield at the 27 inch angle (from top screw center to top of rear door opening) to fit the FFR premium top should that ever happen. Kind of a pipe dream at this point, but keeping my options open.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2661_zps859b6a55.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2661_zps859b6a55.jpg.html)

With the splash shields and windshield in place, now to fit the doors. Managed to spend about a day on each one, but they turned out pretty well. The PS is nearly perfect. It could just about be painted as is. The DS has the usual low spot along the front lower corner. For both sides, I went back and forth adjusting the hinges and then the lower sills to find the best locations. The PS pushed all the way in turned out to be fine. For the DS, again the problem child. Had to pull out the back, and then push the center and front in as tight as possible to get three out of four corners to align. Here’s where I may have gone a little over the top. I’m not a fan of the FFR suggested method of just putting a couple of pop rivets in the sill. I decided to use some 5-16 flange head bolts on the underside, same as used on the sides of my Mk3. I was just going to tap the frame, but decided to use 5/16 nutserts instead. I installed three on each side. One near the back, one near the front of the door, and one behind the pipe cutout. Was a somewhat tedious process, but I now have a repeatable location for all six bolts that I know gives the best door alignment and provides rock solid and serviceable mounting for the body. For the DS rear, since it was spaced away a bit to give the best door alignment, I put a piece of rubber stopper material on the frame where the plastic plug is located. This gives me something solid to push against and repeat the location when reassembled after paint.

PS door:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2663_zps68c19d85.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2663_zps68c19d85.jpg.html)

DS door:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2664_zps3823480f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2664_zps3823480f.jpg.html)

Spacer at rear DS frame location:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2658_zpsbe824371.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2658_zpsbe824371.jpg.html)

Couple of the 5-16 bolts in nutserts holding the body sill:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2657_zpsee125cd0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2657_zpsee125cd0.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finally, took the plunge to install the pipes. This is one of the most discussed and for some troublesome parts of the build. Getting the engine at the proper level, the headers installed, the body cutouts done, the pipes aligned, etc. is a really tedious process with a lot of moving parts to consider. Very small differences can become big differences pretty quickly. I think the main observation for me anyway is that you can get crazy measuring and trying to get every dimension perfect. Probably this will be frustrating and probably not successful. Better is to get everything in place, and then keep adjusting until it looks right. My engine is rotated a bit, probably 1-2 degrees high on the PS. This gave the best location, but still that header is slightly lower than the DS. The DS header exit is also slightly closer to the body side than the PS. Anyway, nibbled away at the body openings until the Gas-N pipes bolted up to the FFR supplied BBK 4-into-4 headers. I had previously determined that a couple wedges were required, and had those on hand. Long story short, the pipes are where they’re going to be. There are minor dimensional differences between the two sides, but to the eye they look good. What’s amazing to me is I have the Mk3 parked next to the build in the garage. When all was said and done, the pipes are almost exactly the same as the Mk3. The same side a bit higher, the same side a bit closer, etc. Also a SBF with BBK headers and Gas-N pipes. So for me, nothing has changed from Mk3 to Mk4. And for the record, I've had the Mk3 on the road for several years and many shows including a couple major ones. Never has anyone said anything about the pipe alignment. Now that I have the pipes in place, need to go back and create a little more clearance around the body cutouts. Then they’ll be done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2659_zps42efc757.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2659_zps42efc757.jpg.html)
 
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2660_zps48056f31.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2660_zps48056f31.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2665_zpsab798fc0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2665_zpsab798fc0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2666_zps523fed82.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2666_zps523fed82.jpg.html)

Next up is door latches, which already have the carriage bolt mod, then the hood and trunk. Paint time is getting close now.

[Jeff Kleiner]

As usual excellent craftsmanship and a great writeup!

A couple of things; the first regarding the hole in the splash panel for master cylinder. If you decide you'd like a quick and easy solution to close it off stop by a pet food store (or probably even Wal-Mart, Target, etc.) and pick up a small stainless steel pet food or water bowl about 3 or 4 inches in diameter. Rivet or screw it on and you're done!

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_3027.jpg

I've used "Fluffy's bowl" on 3 or 4 cars now!

When you get ready to do the door latches I've found that the easy way that almost totally eliminates having to fuss with adjusting the striker to meet the latch is to work in the opposite direction. Obviously you first want to make all of your door fitting adjustments. Afterwards mount the striker to the chassis about mid way in the adjustment slot then engage the latch mechanism on it. Now bring the door to the latch, mark and attach it. Using this method I've found that further adjustment is minimal, if any. Use a countersink bit to add a bit of chamfer to the hole in the striker and the pin will drop in easier. I'm on Mk4 #4 now and I have found that all required the latch spacer on the driver's side but none have needed it on the passenger side. That brings up an observation...all of the body fitting points you mentioned I have encountered as well; the easy fit of the passenger door and the push/pull on the driver's side, the same "massaging of the splash panels, etc. Can't say that they aren't consistent! When you get to the back I bet you'll find that the lower valance is proud of the trunklid---if you shorten the quickjack spacers you will be able to easily draw it in flush to meet the lower edge of the lid. On one car I also had to trim the aluminum along the edge of the horizontal lip at the rear of the trunk floor.

Good luck as you move forward! As outstanding as your Mk3 is I know this car will exceed it :yes:

Jeff

[edwardb]

Hey Jeff! Thanks for the nice words. That means a lot. Thanks for the suggestion on the door latches too. I remember reading that approach from you before, and was planning to try it. While I was doing the carriage bolt mod, I also adjusted the hole and striker so they fit better. I learned this the hard way on my Mk3. I didn't know about that potential issue and after the very first ride in the Mk3 with my wife, her door wouldn't unlatch. The pin was wedged into the hole. I had to unscrew the latch body from the door to get the door open so she could get out. Talk about first impressions! Fixed and hasn't happened again. And don't plan for it to happen on the Mk4 either. Actually the problem can be even worse. I talked to a guy at a show and he asked me if my doors regularly flew open while driving, because his did!! Turned out his pins were just barely going into the hole and would unlatch occasionally. So this is something every builder should look at.

[skullandbones]

That Metco driveshaft loop is pretty cool the way it hooks up. And as usual, you are the fastener king! I've used your suggestions like in the hood hinge screws. Keep up the good work.

Thanks,

WEK.

[edwardb]

That Metco driveshaft loop is pretty cool the way it hooks up. And as usual, you are the fastener king! I've used your suggestions like in the hood hinge screws. Keep up the good work. Thanks, WEK.

Fastener king, huh? OK, that's funny. Didn't know I was in the running for that one. I guess that's the reason the guys at Ace don't even ask if they can help me. I just walk straight to the hardware aisle and probably know where things are better than most of them. Between them and McMaster I guess I'm earning the title. I've been called worse... :cool:

Here's another picture of the Metco driveshaft hoop from a different angle. Shows better how it's attached to the transmission A-frame. Uses two of the existing transmission mounting bolts and then two new ones. Does protrude into the ride height area, but since the back is usually slightly higher than the front, probably no more vulnerable than the front. These were specifically designed for FFR Mk3's, but work also in a Mk4. Metco has done a couple runs based on interest in a thread on the other forum. Nice piece.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2656_zps098e0b89.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007192014/IMG_2656_zps098e0b89.jpg.html)

[rwantin]

Beyond amazing work, really enjoyed going through this post. Thank you.

[edwardb]

Continuing to plod away at my punch list prior to taking to the painter. Got the door latches working pretty well. Got the gas cap and filler all hooked up. Got the hood and trunk lids hung. Still some tweaking to the hinges and gaps, but doing OK. For whatever reason, ran out of adjustment on both sides of the hood hinges. Had to lengthen and lower the main bracket just slightly for the best fit. But working pretty well now. As with my Mk3, I bonded and riveted the hood hinge and gas strut brackets to the hood and will let them get painted over. Nice and strong (probably way more than necessary) plus looks more finished IMO. Probably will do the same with the trunk brackets. Those weren’t used on the Mk3.

FFR still hasn’t solved the issue with the large opening between the inside front of the rear wheel wells and the chassis. It’s open into the cockpit, and I don't consider carpet as sealing material. It was a wide gap on my Mk3 (and I guess earlier Mk’s) and I filled with pieces from Dark Waters Custom. The Mk4 is somewhat less, but still a gap. I made some fill pieces from .040 aluminum and bulb seal. Just cleco’d in for now. Will powder coat and final rivet after paint.

Passenger side:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2667_zpscbec4a50.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2667_zpscbec4a50.jpg.html)

Driver’s side:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2668_zps5fd08271.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2668_zps5fd08271.jpg.html)

Also started mocking up the Breeze roll bar. The body openings were in exactly the right place (dead on actually) but had to be enlarged for the 1-3/4 inch Breeze bar. Need to finalize the fit, drill for the mounting bolts, and then take to get welded. Then planning to send out to have chromed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2670_zpsebb8961d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2670_zpsebb8961d.jpg.html)

It was a nice evening earlier this week, so couldn’t help myself. Drove the car around the block in my neighborhood a couple times. First time it’s been out of the garage since go-kart time. Never got out of second, and took it real easy. Can’t wait to drive it for real. But everything seems to be working fine. Stopped in a small court area and took a few pics. It was near sunset, so the lighting and angles are a little sharp. But still starting to look like a real car. I continue to be amazed how much lower the whole back of the car is compared to the Mk3. You really notice it when they're side-by-side. The lower body profile, space under the rear of the body, etc. It really makes it look quite different, which I like.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2671_zpse558d90a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2671_zpse558d90a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2672_zpsb534b9f8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2672_zpsb534b9f8.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2675_zps0881b113.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2675_zps0881b113.jpg.html)

Finally, my company always has an employee car show the day before the Woodward Dream Cruise. About 40 signed up at the location I work. So trailered the Mk4 build and it’s officially in its first car show. My Mk3 won its class last year (pre-80’s) but not sure all will appreciate a partially completed car. But fun to have it here. This was earlier this AM with just a few cars here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2677_zpsd834b118.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2677_zpsd834b118.jpg.html)

Still need to cut out the hood for the scoop and install it, install the wipers, bolt down the seats, install the trunk latch and decide how I’m going to handle the famous Mk4 rear license plate issue, and a couple other minor items. Then really decide on the final color and get to the painter. Tomorrow is the Woodward Dream Cruise, and will join the local club for our usual festivities with the Mk3. Looking forward to it!

[edwardb]

Received an anxiously awaited package today. Didn't want to do a Powered by Ford badge since it isn't. Also not a fan of the 427 badge since it isn't that either. So after some research contacted Billet Badges (http://www.billetbadges.com/) to make some custom badges. They worked with me to incorporate the DART logo into the traditional Cobra styled badges. They finally arrived today, and they're like jewelry. The pictures don't remotely do them justice. They look amazing. I will be happy to hang these on my car after paint. They came with the 3M emblem tape already applied.

This is the final artist rendering received a couple weeks ago:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/Billet_Badge_Final_zpscf759617.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/Billet_Badge_Final_zpscf759617.jpg.html)

These are the finished products received today. CNC cut from 1/8 aluminum, polished, color filled with automotive paint:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2687_zpsc31cb647.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008152014/IMG_2687_zpsc31cb647.jpg.html)

One caution. Not a complaint, because they're custom badges and they kept me in the loop the entire time through the design process, proofs, etc. But time from initial inquiry to completed badges was just over 4-1/2 months. I don't know if that's typical. But glad I started plenty early. They're also not cheap. But I highly recommend if that's a direction you want to go.

Quick update about my first car show at work. Didn't place with the people's choice style voting. Not surprised as many questions indicated people didn't quite get the "under construction" status. Also had to chase off a couple people who weren't very knowledgeable about car show etiquette. (You mean it's not OK for me to open the Lemans gas cap to see what's under there or put my hands all over the body to feel the fiberglass? Grr...) But that's OK. Had a good time getting it out, showing to my co-workers, starting it up lots of times for those that wanted me to. Kind of blew the doors off the tricked out Neon next to me. The loudest noise it was making was the sub rattling the license plate. Nice...

One other pretty important detail I forgot to mention in my last update. I was having a problem with the e-brake on the FFR supplied Wilwood rear brakes not releasing completely. They were dragging a bit and I could envision a heat problem or worse. The Mustang handle was still putting just a bit of tension on the cables, and the return spring on the Wilwood calipers just wasn't up to the task. There were a number of threads on this and other forums about defeating the auto adjusting mechanism on the handle. But I wasn't convinced that would help because the cable was pretty loose already. There was another thread on the other forum where this was discussed, and solved by putting an additional compression spring between the fixed portion of the e-brake cable and the ball end at the caliper. Took a couple trips to the local hardware store and some serious digging through the Hillman spring drawers. But finally come up with the right one, and it works like a charm. Puts just enough additional push on the caliper end of the cable to completely release the e-brake. Problem solved.

Now up early tomorrow AM for the Dream Cruise. Chance of storms in the late PM. But otherwise sunny, cool, low humidity. Should be a good time.

[rezell3d]

Hello Edward,

I just purchased my complete kit yesterday with a delivery date of 10/11/14. I hope you don't mind, but I want to duplicate your build. You are a true artist. I love everything that you did in your build. As a matter of fact, your post is one reason that push me over the edge and placing my order. I hope you don't mind, but I am your new pesty stalker. J/K.

Thanks, Rod

[edwardb]

Hello Edward, I just purchased my complete kit yesterday with a delivery date of 10/11/14. I hope you don't mind, but I want to duplicate your build. You are a true artist. I love everything that you did in your build. As a matter of fact, your post is one reason that push me over the edge and placing my order. I hope you don't mind, but I am your new pesty stalker. J/K. Thanks, Rod

Hey Rod. Thanks for the very kind words. But mostly congratulations on your kit purchase! You're in a for quite a journey. The possibilities are endless, and that's one of the things that makes it fun. Glad my build thread was helpful for you. The forums are a great resource to learn from other people's experience. Don't hesitate to ask, and post pictures. We love pictures. ;)

[rezell3d]

Yeah Ed, I can't wait to start taking pictures. You know the really cool thing about it this time is that I will be taking pictures of MY Cobra.

[fordboy]

Hi Paul.... how much trouble was it mounting the bracket for the strut with the in-board breeze roll bar leg pretty much in the way??

[edwardb]

Hi Paul.... how much trouble was it mounting the bracket for the strut with the in-board breeze roll bar leg pretty much in the way??

I assume you mean the brackets for the trunk lid gas struts that attach up near the rear cockpit wall by the shoulder strap holes? If so, I mounted them before putting the body on while everything was open and accessible. So they were installed and ready for use with the body on now fitting the trunk lid. Looking up in there now, agreed it would be a bit of a pain with the roll bar in place. But the Breeze roll bar isn't any more of an obstacle than a stock FFR one would be.

[edwardb]

Continue to make my way through all the details getting ready for paint.

Final gaps and mounting of hood and trunk lid, including Breeze gasket material: Spent quite a bit of time getting the gaps around the hood and trunk lid to my liking. Then put a break on the edges. I’m satisfied with how it turned out. Initial alignment is certainly improved over the Mk3. I installed trunk weatherstrip trim from Breeze. This is similar to the stuff FFR supplies, but made to better fit over the ¼ inch body thickness. I used D shaped stick-on seal on my Mk3. This looks more finished IMO, and keeps me from dinging up the painted edge of the opening like I’ve done several times on the Mk3. I left the little cap/cover off the trunk latch bolt, and then fit the ends of the weatherstrip around the bare head and SS tube. Turned out well and almost looks continuous.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2721_zps01004a0c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2721_zps01004a0c.jpg.html)

Trunk handle: Installed the trunk handle and latching mechanism. Had to move the handle down slightly and the bolt/tube catch in the body up slightly to get the trunk handle to latch properly. But turned out well. I was happy the predrilled hole for the handle was almost exactly in the center of the trunk lid. Wasn’t the case with my Mk3.

License plate bracket and light: Investigated all the ways guys have solved the license plate fit issue with the Mk4. Really like the Billet Specialties frame around the license plate on my Mk3. But clearly that was never going to happen on the Mk4. I had a lighted Billet Specialties frame donated to me by another forum and club member. Saw a post where this was used. It could work, but best I could tell only by not using the FFR provided light, cover, bracket, etc. It’s such a traditional look that I didn’t want to go that way. When all was said and done, executed the famous “Kleiner solution” and modified the light fixture and slotted the clear plastic so the plate fits up inside the light. Jeff describes this as a 20 minute solution. Yea right. Not this slow poke. Spent an evening and part of a Saturday on it. Looks like it’s going to work fine. I may have to still trim the plate just slightly. But only in the area inside the light fixture, so it won’t be visible. I don’t know how aggressive MI is about not modifying plates. But I should be fine. One downside to this solution is that the whole thing has to be disassembled to change a bulb, e.g. first the plate, then the bracket, then the cover. I thought about finding an LED light setup for the inside since they should last longer and maybe never have to be taken apart. But gave up without really trying too hard. The incandescent bulbs will be fine. I really don’t drive at night all that often. The only minor issue I saw was that the pad/bump on the trunk lid for the light fixture is slightly off center. I cheated as high and slightly off-center as I could. May need to cheat the stripes slightly so it’s not obvious. The Mk3 had the same issue. Probably a little worse actually. And it’s pretty visible if you look. But I don’t and no one’s ever said anything.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2702_zps17efdd47.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2702_zps17efdd47.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2705_zps312fe314.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2705_zps312fe314.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2708_zps3e72c9e0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2708_zps3e72c9e0.jpg.html)

Trunk access cover: Made up a cover for the access hole in the trunk lid. Just a simple piece of .040 aluminum cut and then formed over an exposed sewer pipe in my basement. (I have all the high tech tools.) I bonded some 10-32 nut plates on the inside of the lid with HSRF. Was going to use nutserts, but decided against them in the fiberglass. With the cover and screws in place the nut plates aren’t going anywhere. Will have the cover painted along with everything else.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2723_zpsa9b0910f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2723_zpsa9b0910f.jpg.html)

Hood handles: Installed the hood handles the same as I did on my Mk3. Carefully located the handles and cut access holes through. Then I bonded 10-32 nut plates under the top fiberglass layer across the slots where the mounting screws are located. This seems to work pretty well, and is clean on the underside. I spaced the handles back from the edge so that if I accidentally don’t turn the paddles away from the hood opening while closing it doesn’t hit the exposed part of the body. This hasn’t happened yet, but I can just see myself doing that. Still would hit the lip and need to be touched up or patched, but better than the exposed body itself. This does make the square tube slightly off-center underneath. But I’m OK with that. Another small touch I added to this build was to make the through hole underneath more finished. Some guys use a grommet and that’s a good solution. I decided to take it a step further and used a bronze bushing instead. Adjusted 3/8 inch ID bushings to just fit over the square shaft. Then enlarged the hole so they slid down the shaft and into the hood. Once all fitted, buttered up the bushings with some HSRF and pushed into place. They bonded in perfect alignment with the square tubes. Makes a nice clean finished hole and will look good painted over, plus gives some real support to the shaft end of the hood handles. I’m surprised how much more substantial they fell when you turn and pull on them. No longer just the strength of the handle itself, but cantilevered at the other end. (OK I know this is a really trivial kind of thing, but stuff I enjoy doing even though likely not required.)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2724_zps14d71777.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2724_zps14d71777.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2726_zps1e103eae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2726_zps1e103eae.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Hood scoop: Interesting to see the differences of opinion about the bolt-on hood scoop. When I was building my Mk3, I saw where some guys cut off the scoop and installed a bolt-on scoop. Mainly for authenticity I guess. Also it was a common mod to add a filler to the hood at the front edge of the scoop opening. Now with the Mk4, I see guys complaining about the bolt-on hood scoop and going to some length to bond and blend them in. Guess can’t make everyone happy all the time. I’m OK with the bolt-on scoop, and like the detail and added authenticity. My Mk4 is a couple years old, and still had the fiberglass scoop. First order of business was to trim it down and lay out/drill the mounting holes. Like many, I found it to be not exactly symmetrical. But split the differences around and it’s not noticeable. I trimmed back the front opening edge, then created a filet of HSRF behind it, and put a nice clean edge and roll on the opening. Turned out OK. Moving to the hood, I was very surprised to see the FFR instructions were to cut the hole in the hood first, then mount the scoop. My woodworking days of “measure twice and cut once” would never allow that sequence. (Plus I was given a hint by another builder not to do it that way.) I spent quite a bit of time laying out the center of the hood while on the body. Then positioned the scoop exactly on the center line. I also paid a lot of attention to where the stripes would be, and kept the front corners of the scoop inside those lines. Then carefully made all the holes starting with center back, each side front, then back and forth splitting the difference each time. When done, it laid down perfectly right on center. Then flipped the hood over and determined where the hole should be based on the bolt locations. Was pretty close to what FFR recommended in the instructions. But the radius on the back was more than they pictured. Tested cutting out the hole with a sabre saw as instructed. But even though all new and sharp, couldn’t find a blade that wasn’t chipping the gel coat a bit as I cut. So ended up cutting it out with a Dremel and cut-off wheel and a shop vac behind to keep the dust down. Cleaned up the opening with a drum sander in my hand drill and sanding blocks. Then pushed some HSRF into the gap between the inner and outer shells. Very happy with how it turned out.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2713_zps5fce6cfc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2713_zps5fce6cfc.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2717_zpse0bd3f1d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2717_zpse0bd3f1d.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2711_zps3b68c158.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2711_zps3b68c158.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2718_zpsa1777c3f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2718_zpsa1777c3f.jpg.html)

Gasoline filler tube bracket: I’ve never been a big fan of the little ring that’s used on the fuel filler tube to somehow keep the tube in the tank rubber donut. I know they were used on Mustangs forever. But they’re not cheap and I just don’t see that they do much. I know many guys leave them off, and I can see why. On my Mk3, I made up a horseshoe shaped bracket out of 1/8 aluminum, lined it with a piece of split gas line, and attached to the frame to support the filler tube where it goes into the tank. Seemed to work OK and is certainly solid. The picture is the piece I made and installed in the Mk3 several years ago. Planning the same approach on the Mk4. Have the piece made up. As soon as it’s powder coated, will install.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2719_zps7aa13cfa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2719_zps7aa13cfa.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2716_zps35566231.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2008292014/IMG_2716_zps35566231.jpg.html)

That’s it for updates. Big news though. Visited the painter today. Trailered the build to the shop and they looked it over. Went really well. We’re working out final details, but looks like I’ll be dropping it off in a couple weeks. He’s going to spray out some test panels for me and have ready to finalize the color then. Need to get going and finish my before paint punch list. He’s promising 5-6 weeks. So I could really have something in the next few months.

[rezell3d]

That must be so exciting for you. Paint!

[2bking]

I'm on the fence for installing the hood scoop. Seems there is a lot of pressure under the hood and unless the scoop feeds the engine intake, it looks like it just increases the under hood pressure. A lot of racers put it on backwards to exhaust the air. Is there any benefit to installing the scoop but not cutting the hole?

[edwardb]

I'm on the fence for installing the hood scoop. Seems there is a lot of pressure under the hood and unless the scoop feeds the engine intake, it looks like it just increases the under hood pressure. A lot of racers put it on backwards to exhaust the air. Is there any benefit to installing the scoop but not cutting the hole?

I have no idea, to be honest, of the value or practical use of the hood scoop. Also no idea about installing it backwards, not cutting the hole, etc. My build is a pretty traditional tribute, and since the original 427 had a hood scoop, so will mine. As seen in the pictures, I'm pretty committed to the hole in the hood as well. ;) Also for me wasn't a question.

For how I plan to use the car (99% street cruising) the actual performance of the scoop is probably not a big difference either way.

[Al_C]

This is truly an impressive build thread. A new guy like me can learn (and is learning) a lot here. Just thought I'd throw in my two cents on the hood scoop. 2bking asked about installing the hood scoop backwards. I've seen this before, but not on a Cobra. The concept is that air pressure is higher at the base of the windshield, you should get more air into the scoop as a result. The effectiveness of that approach is open to discussion - I believe there are a lot of aerodynamic variables. Also, you'd have to move the scoop closer to the windshield and reshape it...

[2bking]

Sorry for the confusion. I'm not going to install it backwards as that is a racing mod and my car will probably never see the track. I was referencing the backward scoop to emphasize the air pressure under the hood and the forward scoop adds more. Maybe the merits are somewhere in another thread.

[rezell3d]

This is truly an impressive build thread. A new guy like me can learn (and is learning) a lot here. Just thought I'd throw in my two cents on the hood scoop. 2bking asked about installing the hood scoop backwards. I've seen this before, but not on a Cobra. The concept is that air pressure is higher at the base of the windshield, you should get more air into the scoop as a result. The effectiveness of that approach is open to discussion - I believe there are a lot of aerodynamic variables. Also, you'd have to move the scoop closer to the windshield and reshape it...

Al_C, this is probably one on the best build threads you're gonna find. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

[edwardb]

Al_C, this is probably one on the best build threads you're gonna find. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Thanks for the very kind compliment. I can't wait to see how it turns out either! :)

[edwardb]

Progress continues. Hood latching brackets: Here I also did a similar solution as my Mk3 build. I cut slightly longer brackets than supplied and put sort of an inverted “V” in them that matches the hood paddles where they cross. Used some HSRF between the bracket and the underside of the hood opening to make a flat pad for mounting. Then mounted them to the hood opening with 10-32 screws countersunk and filled. The mounting screw heads will disappear when painted. These brackets give a nice solid latch or “click” when you turn the hood handles and keeps them straight. I'll remove the brackets during paint and do a little polish on them. Like my bling.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2746_zps6157caca.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2746_zps6157caca.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2747_zpsa4fa04f5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2747_zpsa4fa04f5.jpg.html)

Next was the wipers. They are required here in Michigan and on the safety inspection checklist. Installed them on my Mk3 and the officer specifically checked them. Never a question they would be installed on the Mk4 as well. These things take a beating on this forum, and for good reason I guess. The weak link overwhelmingly IMO is the FFR supplied wheel boxes. They are cheap knock-offs and very marginal quality. During my Mk3 build, I never could get them to line up properly and mesh with the cable actuator reliably. I read every thread and tried every mod (and every size hammer). Gave up and bought the ********** wheel boxes. Huge improvement. Instantly lined up and worked very well. Really hate to replace provided parts. But this does make the system work surprisingly well.

So for my Mk4 build, just started with the ********** wheel boxes. I used 5/16 rigid brake line from O'Reilly's. Cut to the proper lengths and made flares on each end between the wheel boxes and motor. The inner ID fits the cable nicely. Greased up the cable and it slides through the tubing and meshes with the gears perfectly. Then used two short pieces of 3/4 inch square aluminum tubing (5/8 inch ID) for spacers which just fits over the shaft of the wheel boxes. A 45 degree angle on one end fits against the underside of the body and holds the wheel box at just the right angle.

For the holes in the body, I’ve never been able to get my head around spinning a big old 5/8 inch drill in that drill fixture and getting a neat clean hole in the body. Just me I guess because I know many do it successfully. But the fiberglass just isn’t that thick or hard to work with. I used the fixture to make a small paper pattern that I then traced onto the body at the appropriate locations. Then made initial holes freehand by drilling a couple small holes. Then enlarged with some files, and finished with a small 5/8 inch sanding drum that was the perfect size. Kept the fixture there the whole time to eyeball the angle. Took maybe 5 minutes per hole and they turned out just right with no drama.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2737_zps0533ec4c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2737_zps0533ec4c.jpg.html)

Next, throw away those pieces of rubber tubing spacers. They're not the right length. Not the right angle. Not the right strength. Honestly, probably one of the poorest pieces provided with the kit. Make something that holds the wiper box properly. I've used 3/4 inch aluminum square tube material on both my builds. Easy to work with and fits perfectly. Many use pieces of PVC tubing. Just need something that’s substantial enough you can tighten against it and hold the proper height and angle. Everything adds up to make these wipers work properly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2744_zpse86e81b7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2744_zpse86e81b7.jpg.html)

This is one of the ********** wheel boxes showing the spacer in place. Through trial and error, adjust the length of each spacer so that the bezel piece and nut expose the same length of the driveshaft. For both of my builds, the two were slightly different lengths as the body thickness had some variation. In this picture, the length of threads showing is exactly the thickness of the body. When installed, the nut just covers the threads.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2742_zps86941e48.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2742_zps86941e48.jpg.html)

Completed assembly using 5/16 tubing. All checked out. Runs nice and quiet. Wiper driveshafts run smoothly with no slipping, etc. Should work fine if I don't manage to stay away from rain. Ready to go into the body after paint.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2741_zps0ab6641d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009022014/IMG_2741_zps0ab6641d.jpg.html)

That’s it. I have an appointment to drop off the car for paint in two weeks. Only a handful of things to get done before then, so should be ready.

[edwardb]

Running out of things needed to be done before going to paint this coming Friday. That’s a good thing. No pictures, but finished up the spacers and bolts for the front and rear quick jack mounts. As previously pictured, going with FFR overriders front and rear, and a rear bumper hoop. No front hoop. Using ********** polished 3/4 inch tubing, with ********** grommets in the front. Parts all bagged and tagged and ready for final assembly after paint.

Next up was to complete seat mounting. Worked with both to get in the best seating position, and proceeded to get bolted in place. I’m using the standard FFR low back seats. The Mk4 has a nice seat pan so it’s easier than previous Mk’s. But in reality, only the front bolts really line up well into it. The rear bolts work best into the two inch square tube, although the 4 inch main chassis tube doesn’t let you get either front or back too close to the inner side of the frames. Oh and the supplied seat bolts don’t work for any. Too long for the front bolts and too short for the rear. So after a quick trip to my friends at Ace Hardware and some 2 inch and 4 inch grade 8 bolts, bolted the seats as pictured. Two short bolts through the seat frame and the seat pan in the front. For the back, the outside bolt is through the 2 inch chassis tube and bolted. The inner bolt I hit right into the center of the 4 inch tube and tapped 5/16 x 18. I have mixed feelings about the seat being held with a tapped hole. But it’s the pretty thick 4 inch tube so several good threads. Plus it’s only one of the four. I even briefly considered only doing three (2 in front and 1 in back) but went ahead and added the tapped hole. The final result is solid and very likely much stronger than the seat frame itself. Note in the pictures you can see the wiring for the heated seats. Like I did on my Mk3, I lined the bottom of the seat frame with 1/4 x 3/4 inch aluminum strips. Gives the seat just a little bit of height, plus I left gaps to pass the wiring through. Don’t want the seat frame sitting on the wires.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2764_zpsf3f1cad3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2764_zpsf3f1cad3.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2763_zpsd4a71667.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2763_zpsd4a71667.jpg.html)

Another kind of minor point was painting the hood hinges. Most of my parts are powder coated. But I had a minor problem with the hinge pieces on my Mk3 getting a little too much build-up from the PC and made the hinges a little tougher to set up. So I decided to paint these. Always interested in trying something new, I’ve seen the advertisements by Eastwood for their 2K Aero-Spray paint. Kind of interesting product. It’s a 2-part material that you puncture a vessel inside the spray can when you’re ready to use. I used the chassis gloss black for the hinges. Also experimented a bit with the leftovers on an aluminum panel. It’s only good for 48 hours once you puncture the catalyst. Generally I was pleased with it. Sprays OK, dries to the touch pretty quickly, and dries very hard in a day or so. Clearly quite a bit harder than normal air-dry solvent type materials. The final finish has a bit of orange peel, but for pieces like this just fine. I would probably use it again, but not on a lot of things. It’s not cheap. Note the hood bracket portion isn’t painted black. I permanently bonded them to the hood and they will be painted body color.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2772_zps8a6805db.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2772_zps8a6805db.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2771_zps5ed5f5cd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2771_zps5ed5f5cd.jpg.html)

Next up, I’m using the Breeze roll bar. Really like it and the look is great. It does require you get the third leg welded in the proper position. I don’t weld, and was planning to take the car to a welder with bar in position. But for several reasons, one of which not wanting a welder in the same zip code as my MSD box (a known problem), decided to fixture it up and will take it to the welder off the car. Using mostly scrap pieces from around the shop, jury-rigged this fixture and it holds the third leg pretty well. I ended up adding some tape at the top to make sure it stays in exactly the right place. There’s room to put a couple of tacks on it before removing the tape and finishing it. The roll bar fit and installed exactly per the instructions. I didn’t have to do anything special.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2766_zpsf2b3b20d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2766_zpsf2b3b20d.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2765_zps98843638.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2765_zps98843638.jpg.html)

Finally, went ahead and installed the leather check straps on the doors. Goes to my theme of at least mocking up as much as possible before the car is painted. I dyed them black with Fiebing’s Leather Dye. Used the same material on the leather pads on the Simpson belts BTW. Really happy with how they turned out. Then instead of mounting with pop rivets as instructed, used 10-32 bolts in the door hinges, and 10-32 screws tapped into the frame behind the hinges.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2762_zpsdb0767e9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2009142014/IMG_2762_zpsdb0767e9.jpg.html)

Busy non-building week ahead (work sure gets in the way) but on track to deliver to the painter on Friday. He promised some color samples. At some point I may even share. But doubt anyone will be surprised.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Great job on the roll bar fixture Paul! I just fitted a set and had to make 4 trips to my buddy's shop tacking, checking, tacking, checking, trying to get them right using reference marks and a protractor. You should be right on the first try!

Jeff

[fordboy]

Hey coach...how much of the rear support leg drops below the body?

[skullandbones]

edwardb,

Very clever use of the fixture. It looks substantial enough to hold solidly in the position you choose. When the compound angles are involved any give in any direction can cause a major failure. The longer the lever, the bigger the potential error factor. Good job!

Thanks, WEK.

[edwardb]

...how much of the rear support leg drops below the body?

The outer visible part of the rear roll bar leg goes just below the body surface. It's then extended to the rear roll bar mount by a smaller diameter 9 inch extension that slides out and down to the mount. There is just enough of the outer roll bar available underneath to put in a through bolt. Then another bolt at the chassis mount through the extension. Hope this makes sense. It's an ingenious way to use the existing mounts and body holes with a 1-piece 3-leg roll bar. These are available from Breeze (forum vendor) in plain steel (like this one) or in stainless. I'm going to have mine chrome plated after it's welded. No hurry now that I have it fixtured and off the car.

As I commented in my update, mine installed with zero issues. The body holes -- specifically the rear one -- are only slightly larger than normal and easily covered with the usual roll bar bezels. I've seen a couple of reports where people said they needed to trim either the rear leg or the extension to get it installed and able to get in/out. That wasn't my experience. I wonder if they had the height of the main roll bar loop set correctly. By raising or lowering the front loop you can tweak where the rear leg goes through and connects to the rear mount. I put the extension on the rear mount, slid the rear leg over, dropped on the front loop, and then pulled the rear leg up to where it contacts and is eventually welded to the main roll bar. It already has an angled fish-mouth cut, and it matched up nicely. At this point, added the fixture, and was able to confirm it would lift off and clear the body holes as one assembly. Again, hopes this makes sense. Easier to do than to explain.

[edwardb]

Delivered the car to the painter today. I had the body pretty in shape with everything hung, gapped, body trimmed, cutouts done, etc. Other than the famous driver door issue, basically ready to start painting. They will start on it next week, and are promising 5-6 weeks. We settled on the color(s) based on a prepared sample. Really happy with the choice. Let the waiting begin! They said they would send some progress pics. Plus I can stop and check it out any time. May post some pics if I get some.

[rezell3d]

Hurry up painter Hurry up.

[edwardb]

Hurry up painter Hurry up.

Have to agree with you there! :cool:

Hope to get a progress report and maybe a pic or two this week. Maybe I'll drive over and check it out. But it's about 50 miles away on the other side of town, and I do still work for a living...

[edwardb]

The car has been at the painter two weeks now. I have the chassis in the garage and the body is at the painter on the buck. Talked to them on Friday. Body undercoat is done, and it was in the booth getting some kind of primer. The person answering the phone didn’t know any details. They promised pictures. I may be in that area this week, so will stop in and take some of my own if I get a chance. I’ll post if there’s something to see.

In the meantime, working through my list of details to be completed before paint is done and body is back on. I posted pictures before of the Breeze roll bar fixtured up for welding. Took it to a local shop and they did a nice job on the weld joint. Only charged me $20, which seemed more than fair for a non-welder like me. Back home and out of the fixture, it did need a little tweaking. The heat obviously moves things around a little. Had to adjust the spread of the main hoop just a bit, and then move the rear leg over slightly. Wasn’t bad and now slides on and off pretty easily. Next step is to get it chrome plated. In hindsight, maybe should have opted for the SS version and gone for the polishing option. But I’m committed now. Checking on a couple local places. Also have time to ship out of town if necessary.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2780_zps77f4a4cc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2780_zps77f4a4cc.jpg.html)

I had marked where the dash ends landed with the body on. So with the body off, put a couple brackets to hold them in place. I know some guys just let them float, and that’s probably OK. But I went ahead and made up some brackets. Used some generic cabinet angle brackets from Ace. Put a 10-32 nutsert in one end, a little black rattle can, and then riveted to the main 2 inch dash tube. Used a machine screw and finish washer on each end, same as I used under the dash, to hold the dash ends in place. The screws are basically hidden from view, but still can be reached if necessary. Not very clear, but this is a picture of the DS. The PS is similar.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2779_zpscb5b4d5d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2779_zpscb5b4d5d.jpg.html)

My Mk3 has the fuse box in the glove box. This was a mod by the fabricator that started the kit, and it’s handy. Thought of doing the same thing with the Mk4 build, but would have required a number of changes to the harness among other things. So mounted the fuse box in the factory provided location. My OCD had two problems with this location. First I didn’t like that one corner was left basically hanging with no support. So made up a little bracket (I knew those supplied fan braces that nobody uses were good for something) and riveted to the chassis tube. Now all four corners are attached. Used a 10-32 nutsert (I know, again…) same as the other corners. So easy enough to remove if necessary.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2778_zpsf39051bc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2778_zpsf39051bc.jpg.html)

The other thing I couldn’t get my head around was the back side of the fuse box directly under the clutch MC, vulnerable to this plus maybe moisture from the windshield post and just dust/dirt in general. So I made up a cover from a heavy plastic sheet notebook cover from the local Staples. It’s fitted with the sides bent down and snaps around the back of the fuse box reasonably well. It’s far from watertight, so basically is only going to redirect stuff away. But I feel better with it there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2776_zpsadfe10e4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2776_zpsadfe10e4.jpg.html)

Yesterday I installed the last two cockpit sheet metal pieces. The DS footbox outer side and top. Bit of a milestone to get the last two pieces permanently attached. Next was to install the Russ Thompson dead pedal assembly on the footbox side. I played with the location to get the depth and angle comfortable for where my 10-1/2 wides rest. This is the final pedal setup with the Russ Thompson accelerator and dead pedal, and Wilwood box with Forte AC pedals. I’m really happy with the spacing and how they fall under my feet while sitting in the seat.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2782_zps4972e9ec.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2010052014/IMG_2782_zps4972e9ec.jpg.html)

I’m now going to start installing carpet. Hope to get it done before paint is ready, but will prioritize so I’m ready any time. I’m using the FFR supplied pieces as patterns for Bentley carpet material.

[edwardb]

Today at lunch drove out to the place that’s going to chrome my roll bar, and turns out it was pretty close to where my car is getting painted. So of course had to drop in and see how it’s doing. Parting lines all ground down and body is cleaned up and was in the paint booth with a coat of baked on epoxy sealer. Painter told me today it would get its first high build primer. Evercoat something. He pointed to the cans. Then all the serious sanding starts before the final primer coat. But he was pleased with how it’s going so far. So am I!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2787_zps6f708944.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2787_zps6f708944.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2786_zps22f9d9e5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2786_zps22f9d9e5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2784_zps38993c61.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2784_zps38993c61.jpg.html)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Moving along!


...Painter told me today it would get its first high build primer. Evercoat something. He pointed to the cans...

Slick Sand I imagine, although some guys might still use Featherfill. I usually lay on 2.5 to 3 gallons.

Keep us updated :)

Jeff

[carlewms]

EdwardB,

Thanks for this great thread... I was wondering how I was doing to mockup the Breeze roll bar and you've showed me the way.

Thanks,
Carl

[rezell3d]

Oh the suspense is killing me Paul.

[MPTech]

Great progress edward and getting close! I really enjoyed seeing the primer go on because the roadster was all smooth and starting to look finished, also knowing that final paint was just around the corner. Big milestone, Congrats!


I posted pictures before of the Breeze roll bar fixtured up for welding. Took it to a local shop and they did a nice job on the weld joint. Only charged me $20, which seemed more than fair for a non-welder like me. Back home and out of the fixture, it did need a little tweaking. The heat obviously moves things around a little. Had to adjust the spread of the main hoop just a bit, and then move the rear leg over slightly. Wasn’t bad and now slides on and off pretty easily. Next step is to get it chrome plated. In hindsight, maybe should have opted for the SS version and gone for the polishing option. But I’m committed now. Checking on a couple local places. Also have time to ship out of town if necessary.


I also went with the Breeze Roll-bars and really like them for all of the obvious reasons: 1 3/4" size, slightly shorter, slightly angled, no slip-joint and bolt. Very nice piece. (I also like when guys that know these cars walk up scratching their heads and say "I know it's a Factory Five, but the Roll-bars look better, but what are they?" good conversation piece to start talking about the car.) I've received lots of compliments on them. I opted for the SS versions (thought about getting them polished, but can't find a local place and I'm concerned it will be VERY expensive. Still may happen... later). I think you got a smoking deal on the welding. Local shop charged me $120 (I'm sure it was a little more because it was SS and a finished surface). I think it was a little high, but they did a good job , so no complaints. I installed mine and bolted them up, then took it to the welders to have it tack welded. Drove it home, removed them and took them back to the welder to have them complete the welding. They did a nice job and I was very happy with it (better the the Chrome Roll Bars I originally bought from FFR, kinda sloppy welds, then they chromed right over them). They did have to be man-handled to re-install them, as you said, I think the heat from welding does distort them slightly.

Looking forward to seeing your finished project!

[edwardb]

Visited the shop painting the car today over lunch. Well an extended lunch since it’s across town. Great progress! The car is completely final primed and sanded and ready for color. Even more of a surprise, the painter (Rick) put color on the back side of the hood, trunk lid and scoop. This is the first I’ve seen of the color other than the small test sample. The pics don’t do it justice. It's actually a bit lighter than the pictures show. With the metallic, should really pop in the sun. I’m really happy with it. He said today he would get things finally ready, and Monday the whole car would get color. Then the white stripes. Then clear and color sand. Said it might be done as soon as next Friday. Can’t wait!

Wrapping up the carpet and all the other details on the chassis. So I should be ready. This week was also big because the Mk3 is sold. Still here in the garage, and will be for a couple weeks before delivery. But it’s officially on the way to a new owner. Good news, but with mixed feelings.

Body in the booth today getting final prep and mask for color. Looks fantastic.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2801_zps5c23410c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2801_zps5c23410c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2800_zps6039e718.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2800_zps6039e718.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2811_zps4604c7f6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2811_zps4604c7f6.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2808_zpsbdf80c38.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2808_zpsbdf80c38.jpg.html)

Here it is, the first color tease. I know people are going to ask the color code, and sorry I don't have it at this moment. It's a 2013/2014 Ford Metallic red. I'll get the code at some point.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2802_zpsf8a3249e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2802_zpsf8a3249e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2806_zpsf383f1d6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2806_zpsf383f1d6.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2805_zps03efe73f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2805_zps03efe73f.jpg.html)

I'm thinking the color is no longer a secret.

[edwardb]

Didn't originally post this pic, but I'll throw it into the mix. This is with a flash. The other's weren't. Upon further review, this is probably closer to how the color will look outside in the sun. Maybe not quite this bright red. But the others are definitely a bit dark.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2803_zps65447637.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2803_zps65447637.jpg.html)

[ckrueger]

Looks great!!

[rezell3d]

I saw this Mustang in a parking lot a couple of weeks ago and told my wife that this was the color my Cobra will be.
34788
Now I have to keep looking I guess, LOL. You have good taste Paul.

[edwardb]

I saw this Mustang in a parking lot a couple of weeks ago and told my wife that this was the color my Cobra will be.
34788
Now I have to keep looking I guess, LOL. You have good taste Paul.

OK, that's pretty funny. That does look like the same Ford color I picked. It's really OK if you use the same color. :)

[edwardb]

Made another run to the paint shop today. Getting close now. Base coat, stripes, and clear all done. Cut and buff is underway. Looks outstanding. Hopefully will be done next week.

Body waiting for cut and buff. Looks good now. Will look even better soon.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2813_zpsa173652f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2813_zpsa173652f.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2815_zps7ab098cc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2815_zps7ab098cc.jpg.html)

Hood and trunk lid sanded. Waiting for final buff.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2816_zps9a7eb025.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2816_zps9a7eb025.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2818_zpsaddf9a63.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2818_zpsaddf9a63.jpg.html)

Doors in process of sanding. Can be messy work!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2820_zps1ec3bf15.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2820_zps1ec3bf15.jpg.html)

Should be done in the next few days. But I won’t be able to pick up until the first week of November. Will be away from the build for the next days as we’ll be out of town for my youngest son’s wedding. The next pictures should be with the paint completed and body mounted. It's really coming together now.

[jceckard]

Mighty sharp!

[ckrueger]

Wowser!!!!!!! Man that is really looking good. Love the color.

[2FAST4U]

Beautiful color. Can't wait to see it outside

[skullandbones]

That's very nice, Edward! Should really pop when you get it all together.

Good luck on the reassembly.

WEK.

[edwardb]

Just a quick update. Picked up the welded Breeze roll bar from the plater yesterday. I was second guessing my choice to go steel and chrome vs. stainless and then polish. But it turned out great, and now glad I went this direction. Just set it in place for this pic. Now back to the basement until the body is on.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2824_zps34325cc9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2824_zps34325cc9.jpg.html)

Got bored watching the Michigan/Michigan State game this afternoon, so installed the last few pieces of trunk carpet. Finally done. I'm happy with how it turned out, but kind of a pain fitting around the little storage area I added.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2823_zpsfec2678c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2823_zpsfec2678c.jpg.html)

The cockpit carpet is done except for the two large floor pieces, the trans tunnel, and the door sills. Will be easy to finish once the body is on. Down in the footwells is done, and I'm glad because even harder to reach once the body is on. Just a warning for all those doing the PS footbox mod like I did. Nice mod, but guess what? None of the carpet pieces fit. Duh. Several new ones required. Fortunately I had some extra carpet.

I'm now 100% ready to install the painted body. Good thing. The build is officially stopped until Nov 3 for my son's wedding in southern Indiana. If the weather cooperates, he's going to drive his bride from the church to the reception in the Mk3 Roadster. Should make for some great memories and pictures.

[rmiller64]

Just a quick update. Picked up the welded Breeze roll bar from the plater yesterday. I was second guessing my choice to go steel and chrome vs. stainless and then polish. But it turned out great, and now glad I went this direction. Just set it in place for this pic. Now back to the basement until the body is on.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2824_zps34325cc9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2824_zps34325cc9.jpg.html)

Got bored watching the Michigan/Michigan State game this afternoon, so installed the last few pieces of trunk carpet. Finally done. I'm happy with how it turned out, but kind of a pain fitting around the little storage area I added.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2823_zpsfec2678c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2823_zpsfec2678c.jpg.html)

The cockpit carpet is done except for the two large floor pieces, the trans tunnel, and the door sills. Will be easy to finish once the body is on. Down in the footwells is done, and I'm glad because even harder to reach once the body is on. Just a warning for all those doing the PS footbox mod like I did. Nice mod, but guess what? None of the carpet pieces fit. Duh. Several new ones required. Fortunately I had some extra carpet.

I'm now 100% ready to install the painted body. Good thing. The build is officially stopped until Nov 3 for my son's wedding in southern Indiana. If the weather cooperates, he's going to drive his bride from the church to the reception in the Mk3 Roadster. Should make for some great memories and pictures.

Trunk Carpet looks great Ed! I'll want to cover the Lizard Skin that will get applied over my powder coated panels also. If you don't mind sharing where you purchased the carpet? Looks like a charcoal color in the pics?

[edwardb]

Trunk Carpet looks great Ed! I'll want to cover the Lizard Skin that will get applied over my powder coated panels also. If you don't mind sharing where you purchased the carpet? Looks like a charcoal color in the pics?

Rick, the trunk carpet is black. Exactly the same color as the supplied FFR carpet. The camera flash makes it look lighter, but it's just about pure black. The actual carpet is CA1201 Bentley Auto Carpet - Black from The Miami Corporation. Several recommended this carpet as an upgrade from the FFR supplied carpet, so was planning to use it everywhere. But after receiving, found that while it's nice carpet, I liked the FFR supplied carpet better for the cockpit and used it only in the trunk. I recommend it. Makes a very nice finished product. Better than the indoor/outdoor stuff from the big box stores. But it is only the trunk after all. Some may find it overkill.

You didn't ask, but I applied both the trunk and cockpit carpet mainly with Weldwood outdoor carpet adhesive. Just trowel it on with a notched putty knife and push into place. You have time to position as necessary. Several of the small pieces where instant grab was manageable are attached with Weldwood Gel Contact Cement. Both products worked well over the Lizard Skin.

[jakester888]

Nice trunk work.

[rmiller64]

Rick, the trunk carpet is black. Exactly the same color as the supplied FFR carpet. The camera flash makes it look lighter, but it's just about pure black. The actual carpet is CA1201 Bentley Auto Carpet - Black from The Miami Corporation. Several recommended this carpet as an upgrade from the FFR supplied carpet, so was planning to use it everywhere. But after receiving, found that while it's nice carpet, I liked the FFR supplied carpet better for the cockpit and used it only in the trunk. I recommend it. Makes a very nice finished product. Better than the indoor/outdoor stuff from the big box stores. But it is only the trunk after all. Some may find it overkill.

You didn't ask, but I applied both the trunk and cockpit carpet mainly with Weldwood outdoor carpet adhesive. Just trowel it on with a notched putty knife and push into place. You have time to position as necessary. Several of the small pieces where instant grab was manageable are attached with Weldwood Gel Contact Cement. Both products worked well over the Lizard Skin.

Thank you for sharing Ed and appreciate info. on securing the carpet. Looking up now and adding to the need to purchase list.

[edwardb]

Painter just called. Car is done! They said everyone at the shop thinks it looks fantastic. (Of course) I can't get there until next week though. Will take the chassis over next Wednesday and we'll get the body installed. I'll take lots of pics and post them. Anticipation... ;)

[smokinss]

Painter just called. Car is done! They said everyone at the shop thinks it looks fantastic. (Of course) I can't get there until next week though. Will take the chassis over next Wednesday and we'll get the body installed. I'll take lots of pics and post them. Anticipation... ;)

Just went thru all your posts after joining the forum. The craftsmanship is out of this world. Your attention to detail boggles the mind. Thanks for documenting it so well and providing tips for others. Looking forward to your completion soon.

[rezell3d]

Just went thru all your posts after joining the forum. The craftsmanship is out of this world. Your attention to detail boggles the mind. Thanks for documenting it so well and providing tips for others. Looking forward to your completion soon.

Smokinss, my sentiments exactly. My build will be a lot like his. He is a true craftsman.

[edwardb]

Just went thru all your posts after joining the forum. The craftsmanship is out of this world. Your attention to detail boggles the mind. Thanks for documenting it so well and providing tips for others. Looking forward to your completion soon.


Smokinss, my sentiments exactly. My build will be a lot like his. He is a true craftsman.

Hey guys, thanks for the very generous comments.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/bigstock_Embarrassed_Emoticon_845629_zps2f5084df.j pg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/bigstock_Embarrassed_Emoticon_845629_zps2f5084df.j pg.html)

Said it before, and I'll say it again, fun to build and fun to share. So the deal is you have to post your builds and pictures and we all learn together. That's what I've been doing. Thanks again.

[edwardb]

Well today was another huge milestone. Took the chassis to the shop and it was all hands on deck to drop the body on. Amazing how much easier it is with 4-5 people. Then my son and I spent a couple hours getting the mounting bolts in and panels installed. Still some alignment work to do with the hinges, but close. This is how it looks. Offered without too much comment. First pics inside right after the body install was done. Last pics outside before loading back into the trailer. Needless to say, it really pops in the sunlight. The shop did a great job, and seemed genuinely pleased that I was happy with it. The color is Ford RZ Red Candy 2.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2825_zps189e9d00.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2825_zps189e9d00.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2826_zpsc3e9d4cb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2826_zpsc3e9d4cb.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2827_zps753634c3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2827_zps753634c3.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2828_zpsb9f4a8da.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2828_zpsb9f4a8da.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2829_zpsc9c32d63.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2829_zpsc9c32d63.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2830_zpsb654dfa5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2830_zpsb654dfa5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2831_zps02ccef61.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2831_zps02ccef61.jpg.html)
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2832_zps3b28bb50.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2832_zps3b28bb50.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2833_zpsc88b736c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2833_zpsc88b736c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2834_zps7f0cda62.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Paint/IMG_2834_zps7f0cda62.jpg.html)

[rick8928]

Just read your thread from start to finish (what luck to pick the day when your car is pretty in paint!). As everyone else have all stated, great build choices, awesome attention to detail, stunning results, and a superbly written and photographed thread. Great job!

[MPTech]

Absolutely STUNNING!
The color turned out great!
Bet ya can't wait to get it back together now and take it out for a spin!

[WIS89]

Edward-

She looks terrific! Great color choice, and looks like awesome body work. I look forward to seeing her all buttoned up.

Regards,

Steve

[blkout25]

Edward,
I've been waiting since yesterday to get the account activated just so that I could post a comment. I've been reading your build thread and it's is better than reading a Stephen King novel! I actually was going to beg for pictures cause it had been a while since your last post! but you beat me to it! Lol
But on a more serious note, you have done a great piece of work! Congrats!! I hope my time will come soon enough to where I can start on a project like this myself!

Ram

[edwardb]

Thanks for all the great comments guys. It does look good sitting in my garage. Family stuff going on through this weekend, but I'll be back on it soon. Most of what needs to be done has already been mocked up. So should move pretty fast. But kind of a moot point now. Our weather is definitely moving into a much colder stage. Looks like it won't be on the road until spring. Not a surprise I guess. I'll have plenty of time to finish it up.


Edward, I've been waiting since yesterday to get the account activated just so that I could post a comment. I've been reading your build thread and it's is better than reading a Stephen King novel! I actually was going to beg for pictures cause it had been a while since your last post! but you beat me to it! Lol But on a more serious note, you have done a great piece of work! Congrats!! I hope my time will come soon enough to where I can start on a project like this myself! Ram

Nice first post! Thanks, and I've been accused of my writing being a lot of things, but never like Stephen King... I'm assuming that's a compliment. :rolleyes:

[blkout25]

Of course it's compliment!! Just couldn't find another analogy I guess! What I meant was that once I started reading these forums I've been addicted, and yours his the most!!! Also cause it triggers my daydreaming of one day doing the same as you guys! Thanks again for fueling my addiction! Lol

[blkout25]

I forgot to ask if you knew of an app to view/post in here? I hate going the long route to log in! Not that it's not worth it! Lol

[pcww]

Edward,
Congrats. It has been incredibly helpful to have your build thread. As I progress I find myself constantly going back to your thread for help. Just sorry you did not do an IRS. Henry

[edwardb]

Of course it's compliment!! Just couldn't find another analogy I guess! What I meant was that once I started reading these forums I've been addicted, and yours his the most!!! Also cause it triggers my daydreaming of one day doing the same as you guys! Thanks again for fueling my addiction! Lol

I knew it was a compliment. That's why the smiley. Just struck me as a funny comparison.


I forgot to ask if you knew of an app to view/post in here? I hate going the long route to log in! Not that it's not worth it! Lol

No, not that I'm aware of. I use this forum sometimes with my iPhone or iPad with Chrome or Safari browsers. Just make sure to click the "Remember me?" box when you sign in, and you should be able to go back to the session repeatedly without signing in again.

[edwardb]

Had some quality time this weekend to get parts on the build for (finally) the last time. Couple of minor sidetracks. In an earlier post, I described how I used 5/16-18 nutserts along the lower body sill to hold the Mk4 wraparound body in place with flanged button head screws. I still like the idea, but managed to spin one of the nutserts by cross threading during assembly. It originally happened at the body shop. Must have been in too much of a hurry, plus with the car on the ground it’s pretty low so just didn’t see I was putting it in wrong. It took some pretty tedious “surgery” to get the screw out, then the nutsert (or what was left of it) with the painted body in the area. Turns out the nutsert was near a weld bead and wasn’t sitting flush to the surface, so wasn’t gripping like it should have. Then I messed up and cross threaded it. Once it started spinning it was all over. Flattened the area and got a new one in nice and solid and all is good.

Another sidetrack was I decided while the undercoat the shop applied to the complete underside was first rate stuff (Wurth SKS Stone Guard) it wasn’t real thick in the wheel wells so in my infinite wisdom decided to add a couple coats of truck bedliner. I used the water based stuff from Dupli-Color and added two coats in each wheel well. Mission accomplished, but that was MESSY. No matter how careful I was, I managed to get it all over my clothes, the floor, parts of the car not intended, etc. Fortunately I had lots of drop cloths and was wearing old clothes, plus the water based stuff cleans up relatively easily, so all is OK. But note to self (and anyone reading this thread), apply body undercoat with the body off and upside down. No exceptions. If there are any future builds, that’s what I will be doing. Trust me.

So, back on track and really taking my time around the fresh paint, managed to get the front and rear quick jack mounts in place, all the lights (they all work!), side badges, Dark Water splitter, handles, louvers, gas cap and fill tube, etc. installed. As mentioned earlier in my thread, and discussed in multiple threads, I used the ********** grommets and ********** 3/4 inch polished aluminum tubing for the front quick jack mounts, replacing the FFR captured bolt setup. Before paint, I established the location of the body front, and opened up the holes to exactly fit the grommets. The final product is rock solid, looks good, and doesn't put any stress on the body. One hint. The grommets are made for about 1/4 inch thick material, and the body is less than that. So the grommets will not stay flush against the body if used as is and I'm pretty OCD about stuff like that. So before putting the tubes in place, I pushed the grommets flush against the outside of the body and then added a healthy bead of silicone (I used Permatex Ultra Black) around the inside of the body location to hold them in place. I made sure to get the silicone well down into the grommet slot to hold them. Worked well, and the grommets give a clean finished look. Used the same silicone material to bond the grilles over the brake cooling ducts.

I’m not assembling the fill panels around the radiator inlet yet. Still thinking about how I’m going to do this. The Dark Water splitter likely has no practical value, but I like the look so have it mocked up. Does make it “interesting” for the FFR provided fill pieces. Likely I will make new ones, but I have all winter to sort that out. I don’t have the rear overriders in place yet. Waiting to get the trunk lid alignment done, just in case I need to adjust the rear valance a little. Next will be side pipes, splash guards, the windshield, and then final align the doors, hood and trunk lid. Still need to decide what to do for a charcoal filter for the tank vent. Then finish the interior carpet and it will be basically done. We’ve had our first measureable snow plus they’re putting down salt on the roads now, so I’m officially grounded until spring. Plenty of time to get it done, to say the least. Have I mentioned how much I like having a lift? What a pleasure it is doing this work either standing or sitting, and not bending over or crawling under the car.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2844_zpsea49777f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2844_zpsea49777f.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2846_zps85bb4b08.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2846_zps85bb4b08.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2847_zps79ed5114.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2847_zps79ed5114.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2840_zps4f15c47e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2840_zps4f15c47e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2850_zpse9787d4c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2850_zpse9787d4c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2855_zpsb988962c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2855_zpsb988962c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2851_zpsf144a62f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2851_zpsf144a62f.jpg.html)

[jceckard]

I really like the grommets on the front quick jacks. Small details make for such a polished result. Nice work.

[blkout25]

It's turning out perfect, I envy many guys in this site but you the most!! Congrats!!! Can't wait for you to post a video driving this beauty!!

[rezell3d]

It's turning out perfect, I envy many guys in this site but you the most!! Congrats!!! Can't wait for you to post a video driving this beauty!!

I second that.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the nice comments guys. I'm still plugging away at it, wrapping up details and getting everything finalized. I will have some vacation time this week and hope to have it nearly done. I will post some finished pictures over the next week or two and probably close out the build thread. Now I just have to wait until spring to actually drive it. :(

[edwardb]

Had some time off this week, and in between turkey, football, family time, etc. was able to keep plugging away at all the final assembly details. The time flies by, and feel like I’m not making too much progress. But I just looked back at my build log, and last Thanksgiving I was finishing up wiring the dash and the main wiring harness. A lot has happened since then! Sometime in the next weeks, when it looks a little more done, I will take some final pictures and call this thread good, even though I’ll fiddle around with details probably all winter. As many have said, these things are never really done. Anyway, here are a few specifics of what I’ve been working on.

Wanted to install a charcoal filter for the fuel tank vent to eliminate any gas odors in the garage. Lots of discussion on this, e.g. is it necessary, how well does the charcoal really work, various commercial and homemade varieties, and so on. I ended up kind of borrowing a number of ideas, probably mainly from Jeff Kleiner’s version. After wandering the aisles at Home Depot and Lowes, ended up with a PVC coupler, two ends, a 1/2 inch barb fitting, and some Scotchbrite. Found activated charcoal in the pet dept at Wal-Mart. It's used for aquarium filters. Have enough to recharge this thing several times. I bought an AllStar reservoir bracket to hold it in place along with some hose clamps. The barb fitting and one end are glued in place with PVC cement, the other end is held quite securely by the hose clamp. There are circles made from Scotchbrite in each end to hold in the charcoal. The open end of one of the caps provides plenty of venting. Filled it with the activated charcoal, put the lid on, and mounted to the base with the hose clamps. Installed on the outer trunk side near the tank filler. I can get at it pretty easily to remove it and recharge as necessary. Not so visible now since I put the splash guard in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2860_zpsed4fb149.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2860_zpsed4fb149.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2858_zpsccd7b4a2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2858_zpsccd7b4a2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2862_zpscc454f1a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2862_zpscc454f1a.jpg.html)

I had previously hung the trunk lid and got it lined up pretty well. Went ahead and ran the wire for the license plate light up by the pass side hinge. There’s a Weatherpack connector under there you can’t see so I can disconnect if I need to remove the trunk lid. Note that I bonded the trunk hinge plates to the trunk lid before paint, filled the slots, and had them painted over. A bit of a gamble because takes the side-to-side adjustment out of play. But I like the clean look, and all lined up just fine. Same as when the body was installed and mocked up previously. The main adjustment between the lid and hinge itself isn't affected.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2863_zps46ca2195.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2863_zps46ca2195.jpg.html)

Same thing on the hood hinges. Bonded the hinge plates to the hood before paint. Also the mounting points for the hood shocks. Then also had them painted in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2867_zps0d78d9e1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2867_zps0d78d9e1.jpg.html)

Got the windshield installed. Love reaching down into the bowels of the car getting those windshield bolts in! But it’s done and lined up just like I had it before. Sits down on the cowl just right and the angle is correct in case I ever think about adding a top. Looks ready to jump in and drive away.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2878_zps47fdaaa0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2878_zps47fdaaa0.jpg.html)

One very small detail that I did on my Mk3 that people commented about. It’s a small thing, but did the same thing here. I used Mike Everson’s windshield trim plates, cut down similar to the way FFR supplies them now. I like the FFR plates OK, but my Mk4 is a couple years old, and I received two LH sides (or are they RH?) so they’re not usable. I had Mike’s parts on hand. What I did though was replace the gasket material with 1/8 thick neoprene. This is the exact thickness of the windshield gasket, so they sit nice and flat.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2873_zps66b759f2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2873_zps66b759f2.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Got the windshield wiper motor assembly mounted. Lucas plug and switch from ********** and good to go. It works and actually parks. I'm amazed how much this is discussed in various threads, and the lengths guys go to get them working properly. With the right parts it's pretty easy. The supplied FFR switch works fine as well, it just didn't match the Lucas switches I have elsewhere on the dash. Also in this picture you can see one of the hood latches. These are parts I made with a profile that fits the top side of the hood latch. Kind of "click" in place when you close them. They're held on with bolts I installed before paint, so the heads are hidden.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2872_zpsd170a138.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2872_zpsd170a138.jpg.html)

Seat belt trim plates, also from Mike Everson, installed:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2866_zps0b9db0a3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2866_zps0b9db0a3.jpg.html)

Doors hung, catches and latches all adjusted. Installed Herb’s door panels. Note I used some automotive trim screws in addition to the supplied Velcro. Three along the bottom, two along the top. Also installed the under door aluminum. In hindsight, not sure I used quite enough rivets (!). Probably could have used the 3 inch spacer instead of 2 inch. Still need to install the carpet there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2880_zpsf40344d0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2880_zpsf40344d0.jpg.html)

Today I got the Gas’N pipes installed. No gaskets, just Permatex Ultra Copper RTV and grade 8 bolts with stover lock nuts.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2882_zps029a740b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2882_zps029a740b.jpg.html)

Installed the overriders on the back, so the rear bumper assembly is now complete.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2886_zps49deb5f0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2886_zps49deb5f0.jpg.html)

Installed badges from ********** on the front and rear. These were from their 50% off sale. Nice. Cut off the pins and put on with 3M emblem tape.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2875_zps20fbb6c6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2875_zps20fbb6c6.jpg.html)

This is a picture from earlier in the week before much of what is pictured here was completed. But kind of what the build looks like right now.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2871_zpscdbefa28.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2871_zpscdbefa28.jpg.html)

Still lots of details but it’s getting there.

[pcww]

Edward,
You truly are the "Gold Standard" for these builds. I find that when I get to a point where I don't know what to do or don't know what to buy for a specific use, I go back to your thread. I am going to print the whole thread to save myself time from looking it up everyday. Congrats on the build. Will you be going to London so we can all see it? Henry.
P.S.
Sad that you cannot drive it. Here in Pass Christian, Mississippi, it is a nice 75, with no clouds. Never seen salt on the roads. Henry

[edwardb]

Edward,
You truly are the "Gold Standard" for these builds. I find that when I get to a point where I don't know what to do or don't know what to buy for a specific use, I go back to your thread. I am going to print the whole thread to save myself time from looking it up everyday. Congrats on the build. Will you be going to London so we can all see it? Henry.

P.S. Sad that you cannot drive it. Here in Pass Christian, Mississippi, it is a nice 75, with no clouds. Never seen salt on the roads. Henry

Really glad to hear you find the thread useful. And thanks for rubbing it in about the weather. :mad: It's unseasonably warm here today (53 degrees) but just teasing us. Supposed to be cold again tomorrow.

Yes, I will be at London. I've gone for the past four years, last three with the Mk3. The Mk4 will be there! Normally stay at the Hampton along with several other couples from our local club. Looking forward to it. Always a great time.

[RobW]

Edward, Absolutely stunning... Your attention to Detail is amazing. The thought put in to the various mods, material choice, and problem solving... the mark of a true craftsman. I've read through this thread a few times and will use is as my benchmark. I am a ways off from ordering. I am still working through donor or complete, engine/trans, etc... and trying to convince my wife to agree. When I do order and start my build, I will keep a printed copy of this thread handy and probably refer to it more than the instruction manual. Thanks for a good read. I cannot wait to see the finished piece of art you have created.

Rob W. Elkhorn, WI

[rezell3d]

Paul, I know this is probably a redundant question, but I can't find the answer that easily. On your brake lines you went wirth the 45 degree fittings. My question is what does the kit come in? I want to run ss line too, but I don't know if I should run 45 or 37. I'm a little confused.

[edwardb]

Paul, I know this is probably a redundant question, but I can't find the answer that easily. On your brake lines you went with the 45 degree fittings. My question is what does the kit come in? I want to run ss line too, but I don't know if I should run 45 or 37. I'm a little confused.

Correct. All the SS brake (and some of the SS fuel line fittings) in my build are 45 degree double flare fittings. The brake tubing and fittings supplied with the kit from FFR are also 45 degree double flare. Kind of the norm for most brake lines on this side of the pond.

37 degree flares are typically only single flare, and are associated with AN type fittings. I have a few AN fittings in the build (fuel line at tank, fuel line at pump, power steering/brake hoses) but both sides of the fittings are purchased. None are from flares I made.

[thumper24]

edwardb, I second RobW's comments, what you've written here is a quality shop manual for future builders like myself to reference. It's been said a hundred times, but just wanted to say thanks for your efforts on this thread as it's filled with invaluable information. Not to mention, of course, your car just looks freakin' awesome! I'm in the research/planning stage and am targeting kit purchase mid 2015 and look forward to incorporating your tips and lessons learned into my build. Thanks!

[edwardb]

Thanks RobW and thumper24! Very kind words and great first posts! (even if I say so) Welcome to the forum. Glad you find the build thread useful. Good luck planning your builds. It really is a great experience. I will have some more final assembly pictures probably later this weekend.

[edwardb]

Completed the final details for several items since the last update. On the home stretch now. Just about done.

Bolted in the Breeze roll bar, and located and mounted the Russ Thompson trim rings. Note he doesn’t list these on his website since they’re made for the 1-3/4 inch diameter Breeze roll bar. But sent an email asking about them, and he said he’s made several on request. His usual very high quality. I put a bunch of tape on the body while getting the final locations and drilling holes. Not interested in scratching the body in this step, like may have happened during the Mk3 build…

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2889_zps10d507c9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2889_zps10d507c9.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2892_zpsc7ed2ded.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2892_zpsc7ed2ded.jpg.html)

Finally finished all the interior carpet. Pretty normal installation using Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive and Weldwood Gel Contact Cement. Same as I used on the trunk shown earlier. The passenger footbox mod meant I had to make new or modify several pieces in that area. But all done now. I really wanted to do something with the raw edge coming over the door sills down to the floor. Plus up the side of the door opening by the latch. After looking at several options, took the pieces to an auto upholstery shop and had binding sewn along the edges. They recommended a nylon material just wrapped and sewn. Similar to what’s on floor mats. It was a great idea, and I’m really happy with how it turned out. Also decided to have them bind the front and back edge of the transmission tunnel cover. These small touches really clean it up IMO.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2895_zps98d3e0c4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2895_zps98d3e0c4.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2897_zpse05151a4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2897_zpse05151a4.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2899_zpsf6ab3214.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2899_zpsf6ab3214.jpg.html)

Then installed the belts, seats, floor mats, etc. Now really looking finished. If you look closely you can see where the pass side Mk4 floor mat doesn't quite fit again because of the footbox mod. It blends in pretty OK since they're both black, plus down in the footwell. I'm not going to worry about it. At least for now.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2901_zpsd79e4a0c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2901_zpsd79e4a0c.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2904_zps5f28dea2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2904_zps5f28dea2.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

One hint for you guys doing carpet. It can be challenging finding holes under the carpet, and then opening them up sufficiently to get the bolts through, not fowl threads, etc. Includes holes for the seats, shift ring, e-brake boot, etc. What I did was the following: Before installing the carpet piece, made a real quick paper pattern with kraft paper. This to find the holes once the carpet is in place by putting the pattern over the carpet and confirming the hole location with an awl. Then I used a nail, held in a pair of vice grips and heated with a propane torch, to melt the holes open. Outside and away from the car, I lit the torch and heated the nail end until it started to turn red. Then set the torch down and turned around into the cockpit and inserted the nail into the marked location, moving it around to open the holes the full amount. Pretty much need to reheat for each hole. I’ve seen guys use a solder iron for this, and that would work too. But I wasn’t really interested in contaminated the tip on my solder station. This works great. Melts the carpet like butter. Just be careful. That heated nail can do some damage. Here’s a pic of this very high tech setup:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2894_zps1b31fa8d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2894_zps1b31fa8d.jpg.html)

With the interior done, mounted the wind wings, visors, center and side rear view mirrors. I was really careful to check the depth of the screws on the visors and adjust them as necessary. Not interested in any broken glass. I used the Breeze rear view mirrors like on my Mk3. Love those. Also used the Dark Water mount for the center rear view mirror at the top of the windshield. If you look closely in this picture, you can see the 1/4 inch OD vacuum line material from NAPA I pushed into the channel across the top of the windshield. It gives it a nice finished look. Saw this in an old forum post some time ago, and did the same thing on my Mk3. Obviously wouldn’t be a good idea if planning to use a top, since that’s what the channel is for.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2905_zps26d6f16e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2905_zps26d6f16e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2908_zpsd65bf1cc.jpg[/URL]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2914_zps50fa1e30.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2914_zps50fa1e30.jpg.html)

Last night I finished the wipers. Heated and bent the wiper arms so they park parallel to the bottom of the windshield frame. This is another one of the little things you can do to really make your build look more finished. Out of the box, the wiper arm angles point up a bit. You can heat the arms with a propane torch, and they bend pretty easily when in a vice. The pass side just slightly more than the driver side. Just don’t touch them until they cool. Ask me how I know. The slight discoloration from the heat polishes out with 1000-1500-2000 paper or a buffing wheel.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2915_zps49a55ff7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2915_zps49a55ff7.jpg.html)

Today I’m putting set screws in the wheels to keep the spinner adapter from turning with the spinner during installation and removal. I've had them off and on just enough to know I needed to do something. There are other ways, like gluing them in. But I chose this way. Using 3/4 inch long 10-24 set screws. Just the right length to go through the wheel and also the adapter. There’s just enough room, if you’re careful, to drill the hole with a right angle drill and to fit the tap handle.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2916_zps3918f9e4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Final%20Assembly/IMG_2916_zps3918f9e4.jpg.html)

Once this last step is done, and the wheels mounted, the build will be ready for some final pictures. Hopefully I can get a decent day and take the pics outside. Pictures in the garage are cluttered. I’m giving myself an external flash for my Canon EOS DSLR for Christmas (nice of me) so looking forward to some hopefully high quality pics.

[Raceral]

Won't air leak out.;) Seriously, your build is stunning. Great job

[thumper24]

The speakers appear to have worked out great now that the seats are in. How loud do you have to crank up the volume to get past the engine/exhaust? :) Was it still worth the effort or have you had the opportunity to cruise with it yet?

[edwardb]

The speakers appear to have worked out great now that the seats are in. How loud do you have to crank up the volume to get past the engine/exhaust? :) Was it still worth the effort or have you had the opportunity to cruise with it yet?

I can't be too definitive about the sound system yet while driving, because it won't be on the road for some months yet. Something about winter in Michigan... Having said that, couple of conclusions so far. Certainly sounds better now with the body on, trunk lid in place, etc. It's going to be plenty loud to be heard while driving. Just not sure how frequently I'll use it while driving. The sound from the rear speakers is pretty predominant. The speakers down in the door sills provide some fill, and I'm glad I put them there. But they were a lot of work for not a lot of gain. Bottom line: I'm happy I put the system in and would do it again.

[edwardb]

Well, this is it. Today I rolled the Roadster out into a somewhat sunny 25 degree Michigan morning and had Factory Five Mk4 #7750 pose for some final build pictures. Yea, there are still some details I’ll be finishing up over winter. But I’m calling it done for this build thread. I’ll post a graduation thread in the spring when it’s titled and licensed and I can give a driving report.

It’s been just over two years since I received the kit and started this build thread. 196 posts and 23,192 views later, and here we are. It’s been an adventure, and fun to share. Thanks to everyone for their encouragement along the way! I’ve learned a lot in the process. The next build (if there is one!) will have some of the same ideas, but I’m sure I’ll think of some new ones. That’s part of the fun for me.

For those that haven’t been following the thread, these are some of the vitals: Mk4 #7750 basic kit, non-donor build. DART 347 stroker with SCAT forged internals, AFR 185 heads, COMP Cam custom billet cam, COMP Cam Ultra Pro Magnum roller rockers, MSD distributor and digital ignition box, Edelbrock Air Gap intake, Quick Fuel SS-750 double pumper carb, Quicktime bell housing, McLeod clutch, TKO600, Gordon Levy 5-link rear suspension, FFR spindles, Unisteer rack, KONI shocks, Wilwood pedal box with hydraulic clutch, FFR/Wilwood brakes, PS, hydroboost PB, Nitto 555 tires, 255 x 17 front, 315 x 17 rear, Ron Francis harness, Speedhut gauges, FFR/BBK headers, GAS-N SS side pipes, Breeze roll bar, Lizard Skin insulation and sound coating, Alex dash covering and glovebox, heated seats.

The color is Ford RZ Red Candy 2. It really looks different depending on the ambient light, sun, etc. It has a nice metallic flake in it that doesn’t show that much in these pics. But I love the color. Gloss black powder coat on all the aluminum panels. Frame black powder coat by FFR.

I’ll be using a few of these pics to prepare an application to show the car at the Detroit Autorama in March 2015. I’ve already found out from Factory Five that they won’t be there, so no chance to be in their factory display. But I’m planning to enter on my own. Not something I would want to do every year, but I did once with the Mk3 and enjoyed it. So planning to do it again with the Mk4.

So without further comments, here is a gallery of the completed build. Enjoy!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2948_zpsceb7859e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2948_zpsceb7859e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2981_zps7b6d7835.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2981_zps7b6d7835.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2975_zpsb6facb51.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2975_zpsb6facb51.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2992_zpsd655134e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2992_zpsd655134e.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3025_zpsa8692359.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3025_zpsa8692359.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3011_zpsc00e72ee.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3011_zpsc00e72ee.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2996_zpsd5598f13.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2996_zpsd5598f13.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3023_zps29af92ef.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3023_zps29af92ef.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3000_zpsa2079034.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_3000_zpsa2079034.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2987_zps4e09b3b9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed/IMG_2987_zps4e09b3b9.jpg.html)

If you’re interested, this is a slideshow from the directory where I put all these final gallery pics. Lots of repeats and a couple different views. Completed Slideshow by edwardb123 | Photobucket (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/slideshow/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Completed)

Thanks everyone!

[2bking]

Bravo!! Job well done. Your car is really good eye candy.

[blkout25]

Beautiful Masterpiece you have created Sir! congrats!! Please take care of it so that you can sell it to me when I hit the Lotto!!

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Where did you get the hand brake boot from?

[edwardb]

Where did you get the hand brake boot from?

Standard FFR issue. Came with the kit. I had to re-stitch the handle opening to make it a bit larger so it fit over the Mike Everson handle. But other than that, just like it came out of the box. HTH

[6t8dart]

I am seriously impressed with your work! Damn fine Roadster!

[edwardb]

I am seriously impressed with your work! Damn fine Roadster!

Thanks! Interesting to see/hear that people are still reading my build thread. The Roadster is titled, licensed, and turned over 500 miles last weekend. I couldn't be happier with it and it's an absolute blast to drive. Assuming an OK weather report in the AM, we're heading for the FFR open house this weekend. Then we will be in London in a couple weeks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Didn't realize you were planning on the Open House---I'll be there and look forward to seeing you again and meeting that new car! If the weather conspires against you we'll catch up in Ohio :)

Jeff

[wrenchhead]

I enjoyed reading your thread, impressive. i'm planning to order my kit soon and will follow some of your ideas. Thank you!

[edwardb]

I enjoyed reading your thread, impressive. i'm planning to order my kit soon and will follow some of your ideas. Thank you!

Awesome! Glad you liked it and found some ideas for your build. That's the idea. Make sure to keep us informed about your build. You're in for a great adventure. And welcome to the forum.

[boat737]

Hey Paul, I missed it if you said so here, but did you have to drill out the Speedway Throttle Linkage Arm to 1/4" (from #10-32) to accept the 1/4" Rod End? And did you drill 1/4" straight through, or drill for a 1/4-28 threaded rod end shaft? I'm trying to put together a mechanical linkage like you have here.

[QUOTE=edwardb;137426]Early in my build I decided I would be installing a mechanical throttle linkage instead of a throttle cable. Some months ago, I looked through all the threads I could find with examples, and decided what I wanted to do. I ordered and had the parts on hand. The last couple of days I finally have it installed and I’m real happy with how it turned out. Smooth and tight. I chose these parts:

McMaster:
(1) 9095K107 3/8" x 12" stainless rod
(3) 6072K31 1/4" rod end – right hand female 28 tpi
(2) 3370K15 Chrome-Plated Steel Two-Piece Clamp-on Collar 3/8" Bore, 7/8" Outside Diameter, 3/8" Width
(2) 60685K341 PTFE-Lined Aluminum Ball Joint Rod End 3/8"-24 RH Female Shank, 3/8" Ball ID, 13/16" L Thrd

Speedway:
(1) 1750601 Quick release cable or linkage end, 1/4-28 rh
(2) 91018410 Lightweight Aluminum Throttle Linkage Arm, 3/8"

Local Ace/Lowes:
(1) 1/4" Steel Rod - 36" (plain)
(2) 3/8-24 x 1" Bolts, button head
(8) 1/4-28 jamb nuts
(4) 1/4” washers
(1) 3/8” ID grommet

Summit:
Quick Fuel 49-1 Throttle Return Spring Kit

The pictures are pretty self explanatory. I knew it was going to be kind of a pain to locate and then mount the rod ends on the firewall with the dash and wiring installed. And it was. But I had to have the engine installed to get the locations and confirm the geometry. And the wiring and dash were completed before the engine install. I first mounted the rod end in line with the carb, then used that to locate the hole in the foot box, then located the second rod end inside the foot box. I have the FFMetals thicker firewall, so no additional reinforcement is necessary. I used blue Loctite on all the screws, and red Loctite for the linkage arms and clamps on the 3/8 stainless rod. Everything clamped together really tight. Not going anywhere. I used mild steel rod for the two pushrods, and it was pretty easy to cut to length and cut 1/4-28 threads on each end. Here are some pics.

1/4” rod end on the Russ Thompson throttle pedal.

Rod end mounted to firewall inside the DS footbox, from the throttle pedal. I kind of chewed up the finish on the rod end when I was tightening it. I won't tell if you won't. It will be completely hidden. Wrapped tape on the other one before putting a wrench on it, and it was fine.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2448_zps1eb957eb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2448_zps1eb957eb.jpg.html)

Rod end mounted to the firewall outside the DS footbox.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2451_zps4c04fcc2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Mechanical%20Throttle%20Linkage/IMG_2451_zps4c04fcc2.jpg.html)

Quick release linkage end and return springs on the QF SS-750 carb. Some of you may notice these are reversed. The return springs are meant to go in the top hole, and I was going to use the lower hole for the throttle linkage. But this reduced the throw a lot, and I wasn't happy with the amount of throttle pedal movement from idle to full. Would have been very sensitive. So I reversed the connections. Took a little fiddling, but I think looks OK and works fine.

Finished product.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul, I missed it if you said so here, but did you have to drill out the Speedway Throttle Linkage Arm to 1/4" (from #10-32) to accept the 1/4" Rod End? And did you drill 1/4" straight through, or drill for a 1/4-28 threaded rod end shaft? I'm trying to put together a mechanical linkage like you have here.

As we discussed via PM's, I'm 99% certain I drilled and tapped the linkage arms, and then used the nut with some Loctite to lock in place. It's been a couple years since I put this together, but that's how I would normally approach something like that. I'm not going to take it apart to confirm though. :D There isn't a lot of material at the end of the linkage arm, so this needs to done carefully. But when completed, the rod end is clamped on both sides and isn't going anywhere.

Hopefully since your post is here that means your forum post issue was resolved.

[edwardb]

Some of you know about or are following my build thread for Mk4 Roadster #8674 20th Anniversary Edition. We are a one Roadster family, and the agreement for the new build was to sell #7750. It pains me to do so, but a deal is a deal.

Ideally, I would like to sell #7750 in the Oct/Nov timeframe. So I’m spending the current driving season here in Michigan doing kind of a “soft sell” by passing the word, putting a for sale sign on it at events, etc. I received several unsolicited offers to buy the car last season, so maybe something like that will happen again.

You can read every excruciating detail about the build in this thread. It’s a quality build with high end parts, all new (no donor parts), and show quality paint. It’s completely sorted and is fantastic to drive. It’s only been street driven. It has roughly 2,600 miles on it now. Probably another 1,000 or so this driving season. This Roadster won its class at the 2015 Detroit Autorama, was judged best in show at the 2015 Factory Five Open House, and has won numerous class and best in show awards. Nearly everyone who sees it first comments about the color, then the amazing paint, then the fit and finish of everything. It has a professionally built Dart 347 stroker that runs perfectly and is very strong. PS, PB, and Levy 5-link rear suspension.

I know this isn’t the textbook way to do a sale, but I’d like to throw it out there to the forum community. If you’re seriously interested, send me a PM and we can talk. I’m not going to post (or get into a debate) about the price other than to say it won’t be cheap but you couldn’t replace it for what I’m asking. If you’d rather drive than build, don’t want to have to touch the build, and are looking for a premium Roadster, this might be for you. Please don’t bother if you’re just curious or expecting to low ball. I’d be willing to deliver within a reasonable distance from SE Michigan using my covered trailer.

Thanks.

[Ducky2009]

Edwardb,
Have a question about your dash pics in post #39 (1-12-14). I like the look of the speedo near the center of the dash. Did you find a template somewhere or just lay it out based on your preferences? I'm building a MK 4. Supposed to be delivered in 2 weeks.
Thx
David

[edwardb]

Edwardb,
Have a question about your dash pics in post #39 (1-12-14). I like the look of the speedo near the center of the dash. Did you find a template somewhere or just lay it out based on your preferences? I'm building a MK 4. Supposed to be delivered in 2 weeks.
Thx
David

In general, there are two classic layouts for the dash. The Factory Five standard layouts are the street version. What you're seeing in my build is the competition version, with a couple minor liberties to improve sight lines through the steering wheel. I posted dimensions for this layout on the other forum here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/4988081-post52.html.

[MPTech]

Edwardb,
Have a question about your dash pics in post #39 (1-12-14). I like the look of the speedo near the center of the dash. Did you find a template somewhere or just lay it out based on your preferences? I'm building a MK 4. Supposed to be delivered in 2 weeks.
Thx
David

I don't know if it's too late, but when I ordered my MK4, FFR swapped the standard dash (non-center speedo) for a blank dash no charge, so you can locate the gauges where you desire.

[edwardb]

I don't know if it's too late, but when I ordered my MK4, FFR swapped the standard dash (non-center speedo) for a blank dash no charge, so you can locate the gauges where you desire.

Good point. My dashes were made from the FF blank dash.

[Jazzman]

Thanks! Interesting to see/hear that people are still reading my build thread.

Yes, even now that your next one is done and dusted, and this one is up for sale, there are still many of us that still reference this thread to glean good ideas and creative solutions. Thanks again for posting it.

[Mark Eaton]

Were these the 1/8" rivets with 3/8" head, or 1/4" head?

[edwardb]

Were these the 1/8" rivets with 3/8" head, or 1/4" head?

I've used both 1/8-inch rivets for all my builds. I really like the Ultimate Rivets from Summit. They're 3/8-inch head, a wide grip range, and priced pretty reasonably by the box. Plus come in several colors. Chances are the larger head rivets you see in the build are those. The rest are 1/4-inch head size including the ones that come with the kit.

[Scubasommer]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2112_zps4887e66b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_2112_zps4887e66b.jpg.html)[/QUOTE]

Paul
It’s time for me to start looking at oil pans....
1) where YOU happy with this choice?
2) was there adequate ground clearance? Do you remember what it was?
3) did you have a main girdle on the block, would that pan clear a girdle?
4) do you remember the item description, number?

My stroker is from a 1969 351 Windsor block and the deck height, 9-1/2”, should be the only difference in height from your 302 block ( other than bolt pattern I believe, but I will pull out my 69 shop manuals and confirm that)

Thanks your the best
Jimmy

[edwardb]

Hello #7750 build thread. :) That's a Moroso 20509 Street/Strip Oil Pan. I don't know what pickup or gasket was used since it was sourced and supplied by the engine builder. (Fordstrokers) It's a 7.5 inch depth pan -- the recommended dimension -- so it was at/above the frame tubes and no ground clearance issues. That is a 4-bolt main DART block, with no attempts needed to strengthen. So no girdle and I have no idea if one would fit. I had no issues with the pan or anything else with that engine during the several years I had it. All a little academic though. Appears that particular Moroso pan isn't available any more. Looks like 20533 is the replacement. But check that further. Was just a quick search. There are lots of SBF oil pan choices. Just stay with the 7.5 inch depth. There are no obstructions in the engine area (suspension, steering, etc.) so pick whatever pan configuration you want.