Coupe on order!!

[Owlknight360]

Put down a deposit on a coupe last week! Very excited. Completion date set for February 23. My goals for the build are as follows:

1. Have fun with my old man
2. Road worthy
3. Autocross
4. Track days (road coarse lessons/time trials)

Couple of parts already outlined.
LS1 motor from an '01 Z28.
T56 trans from same car.
8.8 rear end with Watts link.
FFR SN95 spindles + tubular LCAs
Thinking about using a fuel cell...

Custom parts I'm thinking about:
wheel wells (I've stumbled upon Ron Schofield's blog; lots of cool custom parts that has the wheels in my head turning)
Different headlights (Ranges from crazy; using C6 corvette headlights/housing to more sane: aftermarket 60's vehicle headlights)
Rear air dam
Fender flares (similar to what you see if you google superformance coupe)

Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome.
Also located out of Louisville if anyone is near by.

[vnmsss]

Congratulations on you new Coupe order, and welcome to the madness!!!! With a completion date in February, you'll be making good use of your straightjacket over the next few months! ;)

Karen

[skullandbones]

Owlknight,

You have good taste. I was at the Barrett Jackson and saw a blue and white Superformance coupe with those exaggerated wheel flares. I have to tell you, that car was getting more attention than any other car in the display (even a GT40)! So modifying the FFR coupe should be pretty amazing. Good luck and good build. WEK.

[riptide motorsport]

Sounds fantastic.............congrats and welcome!

[jkrueger]

WooHoo! Another LS coupe. Congrats on the order.

JC

[DARKPT]

Congrats on the order! If you can pry yourself away long enough, go see the London Cobra Show in London Ohio (just west of Columbus) next June. There were about a dozen Coupes there this year including several Superformance.

[Hankl]

Raise your right hand and say after me,

"I (State your name), do swear/affirm, that upon acceptance of this "Revered Coupe Jacket", will willingly subject myself to all manner of frustration and abrasion that my FFR Type 65 will provide. I further pledge that any and all fellow Coupe builders will have free reign in using the cash available in my wallet as they see fit to improve my build plan. I will not look down upon our fellow Roadster builders, but rather take pity on those not talented enough to build a race car with a roof, So Help Me God!"



It is my pleasure to present you with the "Revered Coupe Jacket", Here's your sign!!

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w284/hankl_album/straight_jacket_backFS-1.jpg

Hank :cool:

[Russ Thompson]

Welcome aboard, we are all here for you! :-)

[Jacob McCrea]

Welcome; you will enjoy the project.

[bil1024]

Coupe is awesome enjoy

[Garry Bopp]

Welcome to the "coupe group". Hope you like lots of attention because these coupes draw huge amounts of attention wherever you go. Enjoy!

Garry

[Owlknight360]

Much appreciated, thanks guys!
Working out two objectives right now....
-which spring rates to start with on the suspension
-Stewart transport or go get it myself (getting it myself has the added benefit of picking up some Sam Adams Barrel Brew collection, only available in Boston!!)

[Owlknight360]

Oh, VNMSSS;

I saw that you are working (or finished) some suspension modifications. The thread I found was missing lots of the pictures. Do you have any threads/blogs detailing the suspension workings of your car? (I realize that my use of an LS motor will most likely throw off any and all relavance to my build...)

[willy]

Welcome, you have your prioritys right #1 HAVE FUN that is the most inportant one everything else will work out.

[vnmsss]

Owlnight360......The suspension mods we made over the last three years were all done to my IRS-Coupe (from you original post, it looks like you're building a solid sxle car)

My new Coupe (just finished a couple of months ago) is an 8.8 (solid axle)....No mods to the rear suspension on the 8.8 car. I've been making lots of mods to my Coupes over the last three years (door bars, seat mods, etc.), and would be glad to share any info I have with you!

In regards to the LS motor, I LOVE them (have Corvettes too), and am excited to watch your build! If you go to the other forum and search for Coupe for the 25 Hours, you'll find tons of pictures and posts on everything we did in our first two seasons (2009 & 2010) in campaigning the car. The 2010 Coupe for the 25 Hours thread is on this forum, and I have a large blogpost on this forum too.

2011 Build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?330-2011-Coupe-for-the-25-Hours&highlight=HOurs

Coupe Challenge
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?346-Coupe-Challenge-Building-a-Legend

Building a Legend (blog link)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5146-Coupes-for-Racing-Blog-Link&highlight=HOurs

Karen

[CJROADGLIDE]

Hello neighbor,I am also in Louisville,and am wavering between a Coupe and a Roadster.I would be interested in speaking with You and collaborating when possible.I dont have any body skills but am an industrial maintenence tech and a welder.

[Owlknight360]

Hey CJROADGLIDE! Sounds good. I'm have expeirence with working on cars. Welding/painting I have novice skills. Body work, going to be learning quickly! Picking up the kit end of February, so I got a little time yet.

[Owlknight360]

For those interested, sent my final bill into FFR yesterday! (most money I've ever spent at one time)

Hoping to pick the car up in March!!! Woot, Woot!

[STLMARSHALL]

Congrats! Is the engine ready yet?

[Owlknight360]

Hate to say it, but I got nothing ready....was working on my camaro (long story) and now trying to get my truck back together (ripped off rocker panel to repair rust). So basically once it gets here, it will become priority 1!

I have done a little research into suspension set up....need to do more!

[CobraKai]

Congrats! Post lots of pics so those of us coming after you can benefit from your experience!

[mr-pantera]

Good luck!!

[Owlknight360]

Car received, photos put up in albums under my profile.

[Fluge]

Congratulations!!

Have fun!

Marc

[Made_In_America]

Congrats on the purchase.!!
Those fender flairs you mentioned aren't from SPF just so you know. They were made by George from Cars By Exotic: http://carsbyexotic.com/index.php for his Daytona LeMans which started as an SPF car. I am planning on making a little less aggressive flair because that car uses a ridiculous 18x13 wheel to fill that space and they cost over 5K without tires. I am still trying to figure out the best way to extend the track safely and use a more common wheel size. Anyway, thats just some of the info I have gathered in my research. Good luck with the build.

[Rodster]

Welcome to the madness! You will have tons of fun, and you will meet lots of great people, too!
-wayne

[STLMARSHALL]

Car received, photos put up in albums under my profile.

Congrats Steven! Looking forward to another LS build. Please go to photobucket.com and open a free account so we can all enjoy the build with you.

Notice my easy to click on photobucket account below.

[Owlknight360]

Thanks guys!

Made_In_America, thanks for the link! I was wondering who made those cars. I'm thinking best thing to do is lots of mock ups and then go to wheel/tire size...or maybe vice versa, let my budget dictate the amount of flare!

Thanks Mike! I will definently use the photo bucket. I was trying to figure out how to not email pictures out, post here and to facebook; gets rather time intensive!

[Owlknight360]

Signature test; photo bucket link

[STLMARSHALL]

Works good! Here is your 1st linked pic from your account:
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s680/Steven_Koepke/Kit%20Car%20Delivered/100_2976_zpsa8cb3069.jpg

[John Dol]

Owlknight,

Welcome and congrats. There's a good bunch of people hanging out here ready to help you in any way they can.

John

[Owlknight360]

Ok so I have a couple of stupid questions...I tried searching but have had no immediate luck.

Q1: FFR front lower control arms. They come with 4 washers. My assumption is that these washers are placed between the frame LCA mounting brackets and the LCA bushing to fill in the slight gap that would be there without the spacers?

Q2: FFR front upper adjustable control arms. I believe that I have two driver side UCAs. I have mounted the upper ball joints in the UCAs so that they angle outward away from the car per the directions. When I go to install them with the non adjustable conrner facing front per instructions...I can't. Both arms with with the ball joints angled out and non adj corner facing front, only work on DS; any attempt to take them apart and flip results in the ball joint angled inwards.

[Fluge]

Let's see what others say but this is what I recall reading/doing.

I think the front arm on the LCA fit between the ears without washers. The rear arms required a single washer in each side to take up the space next to the bushing. On the rear arms I did change the steel tubes with the breeze sleeves which are a little longer than the FFR sleeves. I drilled out the hole on the supplied washer so that it would fit around the sleeve. The idea is that the sleeve "wedges between the ears. If this is the final installation I would install the arms and then with the arm horizontal, torque them down. The arm should move up and down freely. Don't forget to grease the bushings.

I have different UCA but from my recent reading one of the arms has the adjustment bolt at the front and the other a the back. The ball joint should be angled down and away from the car on both sides. The manual hasn't been updated.

Hole this helps and doesn't confuse re issue more.

[Owlknight360]

Well after some absence I'm back. Unfortunately my Dad passed, so that took a couple of weeks, and my number one goal on this project out of the picture. Second I have way too many vehicles that can be considered projects; so I've sold two of them. All my cars were in various states of repair, so I picked up a new Mazda 3 so that I can focus on the kit. So now I'm down to the mazda 3, my 95 camaro (parked, not too sure what to do with it), the kit car and a 2001 parts car for the kit.

Where to start....I need to bring my tools over (kit car is at a different location than my residence), there is something bent in the transmission of the 2001 that prevents me from using 1, 3, 5 and reverse gears, and frame modifications.

Frame wise, I'm thinking lowering the steel for the seats and door bars. I'm going to need a welder!

[CobraKai]

So sorry to hear about your dad. Take care and keep us posted on the build.

[tcoon]

Owlknight...be sure to check out vnmss' blog on the Salvaggio seat mod. I would highly recommend this for BOTH driver and pass seats. Makes seating position and comfort light years better, and I believe it actually strengthened the frame. Rick Anderson (rocket) has the template set up for the mod and can send them to you.

[Owlknight360]

I'm 6' 2", and was thinking I should probably work on the seat mod prior to putting door bars in the way! How do I get in touch with Rick Anderson (rocket)?

[tcoon]

Try rocket@sonic.net. Of that doesn't work you might try to pm vnmss and contact through her.

[MDR]

Just found this thread, first of all so sorry for your loss. I lost my dad in 1990, it's a bit@h, will always miss him. Just wanted to say hello, I'm across the river in Floyds Knobs but work in Louisville. I have a early mk1 roadster that I've been beating on for some time, would love a coupe, maybe some day. I usually keep the roadster on my side of the river, but if you need anything give me a shout out. Hope the build is going well, I would like to check it out some time.

Mike

[Owlknight360]

Thanks!

[Jacob McCrea]

I'm also sorry to hear about your dad passing; I too bought my Coupe, in part, to spend more time with my dad. Regarding the door bars and other frame mods, you may have read that we have a "Spec Coupe Build Manual" in the works. It assembles in one place the vast majority of the information you need for the frame mods. Unfortunately I have been beyond busy with work for almost six months and haven't had the time to put the finishing touches on it, or do much of anything else with the project. Nevertheless, feel free to get in touch with me via PM and I will help out however I can.

[Owlknight360]

So I built body bucks last weekend. Misson successful, body is off the ground and mobile.

Starting too look into Side impact bars. Just had a thought, once the SIBs are installed, is it possible to use a roll down window, or do the bars eat up all of the space?

[Jacob McCrea]

If I recall the Competition Coupe photos and JC's coupe correctly, the top side impact bar intrudes into the very bottom of the door. I've never seen the mounting setup for a roll-up window but I have to assume with enough creativity you could make it work with the top side impact bar intruding into the bottom of the door, as seen on the Competition Coupes. I would guess that the roll-up windows mount to the door frames. You might not be able to roll the window down all the way, but again, that is just speculation.

I kept my side impact bars entirely inside the plane of the door in order to minimize fiberglass work and, in my mind at least, give myself the best chances of making the cabin waterproof (as unrealistic as that may be). Doing that may, or may not, make the roll-up windows easier to accomplish - I don't know. It absolutely will make ingress and egree more diffcult, and interior space will be a little more cramped.

[jkrueger]

You can build any way you want, but the way we did it on my coupe ( I copied Karen's car) is the top bar is just below the bottom bar of the door frame.

JC

[tcoon]

The side bars intrude into the bottom of the door approx 2". On my passenger side I had to reposition the lower door frame bar about 1 1/2" to clear this Impact tube. I am not aware of anyone using roll up windows in the coupe, it comes with lexan fixed side panels and sliding windows. The interior door frame bars would require a lot of modification to accept roll up windows...

[smithtlw]

You definitely would not be able to retract windows into the doors with the "standard" door bars. It is possible if you use Jacob's style bars (or none) with a bunch of work:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/268505-coupe-power-windows.html
http://s520.photobucket.com/user/DAVE322/media/Coupewindow.mp4.html

Every once in a while we hear of a kit or service that is going to be provided by a couple forum vendors to install power windows but I think it is a significant undertaking and is a tough product/service to offer to the general population. Also, don't be fooled - just because the window goes up and down don't assume it is going to seal like a production car.

-Todd

[Owlknight360]

Body Bucked!19340193411934219343

I'd like to thank DARKPT for posting build instructions for his bucks, it they were very helpful!

[DARKPT]

Lookin' good! Those bucks served me as well for both primer/surfacing and painting.

[Owlknight360]

Just ordered a tube bender for the SIBs. Think I'm going to cry....

[Owlknight360]

19776
19777

See photobucket link for more photos on motor removal and body buck.

TIG Welder, check
Tube bender, check

Now to tubing and welding supplies!

[STLMARSHALL]

That top pic reminds me of an engine removal I have seen before!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIMn2WydX0s

[John Dol]

Mike,

I can be proud to report those top mechanics are from my home country!
It did not say whether they were going to use it in a coupe though.

Owl,

Looks like you had a nice donor to start with. Keep the pics coming.


John

[Owlknight360]

Mike, that video was hilarious!

So the National Hot Rod show was in town this weekend. Many cool vendors, including some paint boths were there. One paint both had some candy coatings you could layer on top of other colors. So I think I have a color to think on (the last pic, the red one, it is a combination of the grey and candy red).
204082040920410

[Owlknight360]

Question on Side Impact Bars: why do we use .120 wall DOM tubing, why not a thinner walled chromoly tube?

[jkrueger]

Question on Side Impact Bars: why do we use .120 wall DOM tubing, why not a thinner walled chromoly tube?

On mine I just followed the rule book for NASA which specifies .120 DOM. It might talk about the use of chromoly but I don't remember.

JC

[Jacob McCrea]

I seem to recall either the NASA or the SCCA rule book prohibiting the mixing and matching of "regular" DOM tubing and chromoly tubing in the roll cage. I am completely tied up with work right now but will check as soon as I get a chance.

[Hankl]

NASA Rule book states,

15.6.18 Roll Cage Tubing Sizes

For the purposes of determining roll bar tubing sizes, vehicle weight is as raced, but without fuel and driver. Note: There is an allowance of minus 0.010 inches on all tubing thicknesses. Minimum tubing size for the roll cage is:

Up to 1500 lbs
1.375” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.500” x 0.080” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM


1501 - 2500 lbs
1.500” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.500” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages) *Note- Specifications listed only for reference for inspection of grandfathered vehicles.

2501 - 3000 lbs (typical weight for a Coupe)
1.500” x 0.120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.750” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.750” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages) *Note- Specifications listed only for reference for inspection of grandfathered vehicles.

3001 - 4000 lbs
1.750” x .120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM No ERW allowed.

Over 4000 lbs
2.000” x 0.120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM No ERW allowed.

15.6.19 Bending Allowances
If the maximum number of bends permitted for any one bar is exceeded, all required components shall be made from the tubing size listed for the next heavier category and must be approved by a NASA race tech shop or scrutineer.

The decision is made for you in the rule book, it doesn't matter what type of tubing you use, the wall thickness is consistent based on the weight of the car.
Cost is also a factor for many, as the cost of 4130 is approximately double than for a like DOM.

Hank :cool:

[Owlknight360]

Well looks like the rule book makes that a simple decision. Thanks!

[Owlknight360]

Survey Time! I'm trying to nail down some hard HP and Torque numbers to make sure I order the right parts.

For those of you who are racing (autocross, road course) your coupes, how much power are you making (please specify motor, ie ford type or LS)?
And, are you happy with the power you are currently making?

[jkrueger]

Survey Time! I'm trying to nail down some hard HP and Torque numbers to make sure I order the right parts.

For those of you who are racing (autocross, road course) your coupes, how much power are you making (please specify motor, ie ford type or LS)?
And, are you happy with the power you are currently making?

360 RWHP, 340 torque. Chevy "LS" 5.3L truck motor. The car could handle another 50 or so HP and still not be too squirley to drive.

JC

[Owlknight360]

I have a SIB question. Looking at pictures I normally see 3 vertical bars that attach the lower horizontal bar to the chasis.
23487

However I just noticed what looks like a 4 vertical bar towards the rear of the chasis. Appears like some 2"x2" tubing was added to use this location.
23488
23489

I'd appreciate any info on this mysterious 4th vertical support.

[jkrueger]

Hank can probably elaborate better on this but the last two pictures, I think, are of his car. He has done a bunch of additional frame mods to his. That additional 2x2 bar and that fourth vertical bar would be something additional you would have to add. I didn't do that on mine and I'm pretty sure Karen's car doesn't have it either.

JC

[Hankl]

I have a SIB question.

However I just noticed what looks like a 4 vertical bar towards the rear of the chasis. Appears like some 2"x2" tubing was added to use this location.


I made additional mods way back when, and the 4th vertical was something I included because I could, not necessary with a normal SIB installation.

Hank :cool:

[Owlknight360]

Gotcha, thanks Hank!

[Owlknight360]

So working on seat installation. Moving the floor downward for more headroom. while I'm in there, I'm looking at the seat to steering wheel to pedals, centering. It looks like the seat will sit closer to the center of the car with the steering wheel and pedals more towards the outside (ie, pedal to steering wheel to seat are not all centered with eachother). Is this something you guys have noticed? I figure now is the time to mock this up and change it!!

Also, I think I need to start a new thread since my coupe is no longer "on order"! Build 593 perhaps.

[smithtlw]

So working on seat installation. Moving the floor downward for more headroom. while I'm in there, I'm looking at the seat to steering wheel to pedals, centering. It looks like the seat will sit closer to the center of the car with the steering wheel and pedals more towards the outside (ie, pedal to steering wheel to seat are not all centered with eachother). Is this something you guys have noticed? I figure now is the time to mock this up and change it!!


Without major modifications, I believe most of these cars and the roadsters you end up sitting with your body slightly pointed to the outside of the car. There is a thread on the other forum discussing this very subject:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/405162-steering-column-alignment.html

Todd

[smithtlw]

Just ordered a tube bender for the SIBs. Think I'm going to cry....

What brand of bender did you buy and from where? I am in the market for one...

Todd

[skullandbones]

The driver comfort in a roadster or coupe (very similar) is really more critical than you would think. I spent more time tweeking the seat, harnesses, pedals and foot box modifications than any other part of the build. So When I'm in there, it feels like it was made for me because it was!!! If you try to make the seat fit straight, you will not be able to maximize your comfort so don't fight the shape of the cockpit and foot box. There could be problems with your back if you are pushing the clutch in over and over again with a slightly twisted lower back. I mounted my seats with a plywood plate on the runners so I could run 4 screws thru the bottom of the seat for custom placement. I tried every conceivable position that way and came up with what felt the best and gave me the most room from chest to steering wheel. Then I thru bolted the plates to secure the seat position. I think every driver's position would be slightly different. Good luck,

WEK.

[STLMARSHALL]

Survey Time! I'm trying to nail down some hard HP and Torque numbers to make sure I order the right parts.

For those of you who are racing (autocross, road course) your coupes, how much power are you making (please specify motor, ie ford type or LS)?
And, are you happy with the power you are currently making?

Steven you have experienced 350 RWHP in my coupe so that should be a good reference point. Remember when we headed for the ditch after a 2nd gear roll on! That was on Kumho XS's. I now run NT01's and can put the hammer down in any gear and it just hooks.

[Owlknight360]

I got it from Pro Tools off of their website. I hate to say it, but I've yet to use it. I realized I should get the seat in the car first, so working on that.

[Owlknight360]

Anyone purchase the Steering Inner Tie Rods from FFR? I grabbed a steering rack out of an '01 Mustang. I cut the inner tie rods down per instructions and still had horrible toe out. I realized I was supposed to use a much earlier model year steering rack (says right there in the manual). I then found FFR sells inner tie rods to adapt the latter model racks. So I purchased and received them yesterday.

What I'm not sure about, is they are the exact same length as the inner tie rods I cut down off of the '01 (AFTER cutting). My assumption is they are stock replacements for the correct model year I was supposed to use and I need to cut these down (per the manual had I gotten the correct model year). I was just hoping to hear confirmation prior to cutting my newly purchased parts.

They also came with some small roll pins. I don't understand the function of these pins. I see three holes in the threaded member that attaches to the rack where these pins could go....but I don't see how they would do anything.

[Owlknight360]

So again, this is explained in the manual. But my problem was I purchased an 01 steering rack. The manual walks you through the 87-93 rack install. So the 01 rack works, I just needed inner and outer tie rods from the 87-93. I then had to cut down the new 87-93 inner tie rod per instructions. I'm now in business!