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azbruin
11-15-2012, 05:45 PM
I've got my car pretty well put together and have taken a few drives. The clutch pedal is high. It wasn't so bad until I got the doors on and now I can barely raise my leg far enough to get my foot on the pedal. My pedal box has a Ford Racing pivot with two places to attach the cable. If I use the first notch, I have the right height but not enough travel before I bottom out. I've already adjusted the nuts on the engine as far as I can. Am I looking at a new cable and if so, how do I spec. it? I do have a bit of play at the first notch. I have a pretty standard drivetrain out of an '88 donor.

Thanks

skullandbones
11-15-2012, 07:17 PM
Do you have a clutch pedal stop installed. You didn't mention anything about that. I would adjust the pedal with that and get it about where your brake pedal height is and then start all over adjusting the cable and quadrant. WEK.

AZPete
11-15-2012, 11:13 PM
AZBruin, here's a photo of one way to make a clutch pedal stop that SkullandBones talked about. There are several ways to do it but the main thing is to readjust your clutch cable after installing the pedal stop. This was done before I mounted the body so if your body is on you'll have to do it so you can install it from below.
Pete
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/clutchpedaladjust.jpg

azbruin
11-16-2012, 10:39 AM
Thanks, working from below will present a challenge but I can do it. I gather that after installing the stop, I should be able to loosen the nuts a bit down by the fork. I did some Internet research last night and found adjustable cables and firewall adjusters that look pretty simple. Either or both may also solve part of my problem. Has anybody used these before?

MPTech
11-16-2012, 12:51 PM
Do you have a cable adjustment on the firewall as well?

x2 on the clutch stop, I installed one and my clutch is dead even with my brake and it also gives me more clearance for reaching my dead pedal.

edwardb
11-16-2012, 12:57 PM
I don't have a picture, but I made a stop similar to AZPete's from a piece of 3/4 inch tube for my Mk3, and put the rubber bumper on the pedal arm. Clutch and brake pedals are at the same height. Have just enough clutch movement to get the travel adjustment right with a pretty standard Ford Racing cable and King Cobra clutch.

Tony Zullo
11-16-2012, 01:15 PM
That's a perfect way to make a stop, without it may be a little high for people.

CraigS
11-16-2012, 06:14 PM
I would get a firewall adjuster and also an adjustable cable. I don't have numbers but I am pretty sure Forte will have both. The adjustable cable is a Ford part from a truck or something that has a threaded end at the trans rather than the non adjustable mustang setup.

edwardb
11-16-2012, 07:10 PM
I would get a firewall adjuster and also an adjustable cable. I don't have numbers but I am pretty sure Forte will have both. The adjustable cable is a Ford part from a truck or something that has a threaded end at the trans rather than the non adjustable mustang setup.

The adjustable cable most use, including me, is the Ford Racing M-7553-C302 Adj. Clutch Cable. Nice part. I also installed a Steeda adjustable firewall connector. These give you lots of room to adjust the clutch actuation. But they don't control the pedal height. When properly adjusted, the clutch cable has a slight amount of slack with the pedal all the way out. You need the stops shown to lower the pedal height, make even with the brake pedal, etc.

azbruin
11-20-2012, 03:10 PM
I built the stop and got it installed. Turns out I have anjustable clutch cable and I've got it working. It was very hard to get enough travel on the pedal but after three tries, it seems to be working. Thanks all for the advice.

RGHarvey
11-30-2012, 10:14 PM
I have the same problem - high clutch pedal, well above brake pedal. I have both adjustable Ford cable and FFR footbox cable adjustment. I've adjusted the cable and footbox adjuster until there is just the slightest slack. I have also adjusted the quadrant stop to minimize travel before the cable hits the quadrant without reducing travel of the clutch fork. If I add the stop to move the clutch pedal to a point near the brake pedal level, won't the cable now be under constant tension? I can't tell how much travel the clutch pedal needs to disengage (i.e., whether I will hit the frame at/before disengagement. How can I determine when the clutch disengages while the car is still on the jackstands (still building; no wheels yet)?

AZPete
12-01-2012, 12:31 PM
RG, if you have the engine, tranny, drive shaft and rear end installed you can easily tell when the clutch disengages by depressing the clutch pedal as you turn the drive shaft by hand (engine NOT running!). On mine, I had not yet installed the tunnel cover so I could sit in the (not yet bolted in) drivers seat, press the clutch pedal and twist the drive shaft with my right hand to feel where it engaged. After a few tries I adjusted my cable so the clutch engaged when the pedal was about half way up and it worked well. If your tunnel is covered, get someone else to turn a hub or the drive shaft as you slowly depress/release the clutch pedal.
Pete

Nelff
12-01-2012, 12:38 PM
Thanks, working from below will present a challenge but I can do it. I gather that after installing the stop, I should be able to loosen the nuts a bit down by the fork. I did some Internet research last night and found adjustable cables and firewall adjusters that look pretty simple. Either or both may also solve part of my problem. Has anybody used these before?

Yes to both :) Actually, clutch pedal height is one of the big problem with Mustang guys. A firewall adjuster is good for minor adjustments like cable stretch and final adjustment. Use an adjustable cable during initial installation. Set the firewall adjuster to where it's almost all the way collapsed. Then, set the adjustable cable to just a bit of slack, actually kinda snug. If there is tension on the cable there is tension on the throwout bearing also. No-body wants a worn out throwout bearing...

If a rebound pedal stop is used and there is tension on the cable, same throwout bearing issue is there.

There is another product that you can use. It's called a Mustang Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster (JEGS Performance Products 60139 - JEGS 1994-04)

13762

With the pedal height adjuster, you can move the pedal height down keeping all of the original functionality.

If you want to keep messing with the feel of the clutch there are also clutch cable quadrants that are not linear (not just a single radius) too...

RGHarvey
12-01-2012, 01:44 PM
AZPete,

Thanks for the info. Fortunately, I haven't fastened the tranny tunnel top down yet.