Post Cool Parts Others May Not Be Aware Of:

[longislandwrx]

I figured a spot for parts people may want to use on their 818 would be a good thread. heres a few I recently found:

http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1245

Composite TGV deletes... lightweight and a good insulator about $200
13409

http://www.truhartusa.com/product_p/th-s101.htm

truhart trailing arms/lateral links much better quality than the ebay stuff, good price about $420
13410

more to come

[mug23]

I was installing the TiC composite TGV housing last night on my track 05 STI. I had to install the o-rings by hand and now my finger tips is not liking it. Otherwise we light and that thing is awesome.

[rori]

Factory A/C delete bracket:

http://www.flatironstuning.com/images/product/large/2043_1_.jpg (http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2043-oem-subaru-air-conditioning-delete-alternator-bracket.aspx)

[longislandwrx]

good find, very nice bracket. wonder what the stock bracket weighs.

13413

http://www.fastwrx.com/wrwhbopaad.html

5x100 to 5x114.5 adapters pretty low profile at 15mm shouldnt put too much additional stress on the bearings $280


13415

http://www.perrinperformance.com/subaru/wrx-02-05/engine/subaru-radiator-stay

posted this before, expensive, but due to the prominent location of these in the front of the car a little bling might be nice. $70

[Mechie3]

Please post links and prices not just pics so we can find these.

[mug23]

Factory A/C delete bracket:

http://www.flatironstuning.com/images/product/large/2043_1_.jpg (http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2043-oem-subaru-air-conditioning-delete-alternator-bracket.aspx)

I don't understand why you need this bracket for? I have deleted my a/c and that space is now empty.

[longislandwrx]

AC Bracket is only $30 and can be found at

http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2043-oem-subaru-air-conditioning-delete-alternator-bracket.aspx


Updates. found a picture of the bracket installed.

16161

[mug23]

AC Bracket is only $30 and can be found at

http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2043-oem-subaru-air-conditioning-delete-alternator-bracket.aspx


Mug23, it drops the alternator down, usually seen with a flipped intake (not necesary for the 818) but would lower the CG slightly and makes for a cleaner look IMHO

13416

That picture you show is a not factory set up. That when you rotate the intake manifold and move the alternator to where the a/c used to be. Attached is what the factory set up is like.

Once you removed the a/c, there's nothing you need to add. That spot is pretty much empty if you want to keep running a tmic stock location set up.

13417

[longislandwrx]

That picture you show is a not factory set up. That when you rotate the intake manifold and move the alternator to where the a/c used to be.
13417

Yes I mentioned the picture was a flipped intake. I believe the bracket listed allows the alternator to be mounted low. I could be wrong, I have never used that bracket.

[mug23]

If you were to go rotated IM set up for a fmic, this a/c delete bracket is very nice. But on the 818, you have to keep the stock tmic set up and the IM has to be at the stock location so, this bracket is nice but not for the 818 application.

[Xusia]

I don't know. It certainly isn't required, but $30 for a cleaner look isn't unreasonable. I could see people wanting that...

[tirod]

The unspoken other side of cool parts is whether you need them, or they even work. There is no guarantee a car with all the coolest parts actually performs - all the racers on the track have them, everybody past second place didn't get their money's worth.

Take the legendary set up many V8 rodders use - underdrive pulleys, one wire alternator, Optima battery. All the coolest parts you can get, and likely $1000 in it. The battery makes it seem like everything is working - until it finally runs flat. Optima says it takes 6-8 days to charge at 2 - two - amps, or you destroy it. The one wire alternator is self exciting, doesn't respond to load, and won't kick in under 1800 rpm in many cases. Add the underdrive pulleys, now it won't start working for another 10-15% rpms, you're up to 2100. Depending on the final drive, you may never see that many rpms at cruise until you hit 65mph. The system not only doesn't work, it's not a working system at all unless you are screaming along at a high bank oval over 6,000 rpm to get the reputed 6 additional hp. Synthetic oil in the crankcase does that.

Spending money on cool parts without any idea of how they fit into the dynamic assembly and contribute to the overall results is what show cars do. If that's the point, delete those nasty cranks, rods, and pistons, gut the heads, etc, and it will be easier to push off the trailer, right?

Don't forget, what is cool today is retro tomorrow, and many companies make parts simply because they can sell them. There is no guarantee they actually perform better until you prove it on the track or dyno. How about posting the documented improvement in hp or track time the part is known to get you? Otherwise, it's wasted money.

[Mechie3]

The unspoken other side of cool parts is whether you need them, or they even work.

I think that's understood.


How about posting the documented improvement in hp or track time the part is known to get you? Otherwise, it's wasted money.

Not always. What's your goal? Easier maintenance? Lighter weight? Better looking part? A stock intake on a WRX is sufficient, but a cold air intake makes changing spark plugs a 5-10 minute job vs a 30-45 minute job. I won't be any faster at an autocross, but it looks cool (to me) and makes maintenance easier.

TGVs: performance is well documented by several companies vs stock TGV's
AC Bracket: For looks, CoG, to be different
Laterl Links: Adjustable suspension, look different

I don't think anyone is touting these parts as must haves or be all end alls, just "hey, if you aren't in the Subaru scene, you might not know about these, but may find them interesting"

[Xusia]

I don't think anyone is touting these parts as must haves or be all end alls, just "hey, if you aren't in the Subaru scene, you might not know about these, but may find them interesting"

That's pretty much how I understood it. As someone who is learning about Subarus, I appreciate BOTH the notification AND the discussion. It helps me determine if it's something I'd actually want.

Tirod, I understand what you are saying, and agree to the point that it's about each individuals goals (as Mechie3 pointed out, easier maintenance could be the goal). Just because a part doesn't result in more power or decreased lap times doesn't mean it's a waste of money. It's only a waste of money if it fails to fulfill the reason for which it was purchased. For some people that may be bling...

[Kalstar]

I will have a service to zero the oddometer "legally".......I would need the vin number of the donor, the F5R serial number and an affidavit that you are not rolling the oddometer back for financial or unlawful purpose.

Before I quote exact prices (under $200 plus shipping) I will need to become a vendor. If enough interest I will fill out the proper paperwork and pay the vendor fee.

Thoughts??

[305mouse]

What if someone bought a pallett or sourced the used parts seperately, then there would be no donor vin. Would you then not be able to do this?

[longislandwrx]

Kalstar thats an interesting idea, since theres no guarantee anyway that the cluster came with the doner motor, the mileage is technically the chassis mileage starting and at zero would be nice. Might make remembering maintenence easier. If the price was right I might be interested, otherwise i'll just use trip a/b like I do now.



back to cool parts! disclaimer:these are not necessary and may not even work

These came out recently:

perrin machined engine and transmission mounts $350/set and $220

1347613475

[Kalstar]

If you purchase the pallet they will need to supply you a photocopy of the title for the state inspection. The state has to confirm the parts are not stolen. On the copy will be the vin. If enough interest I will become a vendor. Here some other things I was thinking.

818 spec'ed wheels.....$360-$480.00 for a set of 4
818 spec'ed seats......$300.00-$650.00 including CF.
Donor locate services.....TBD but less then $200.00
Gauge pod resetting......$189.00... Zeroing odometer
Gauge pod overlay with custom wording....$50.00 (Factory Five Racing or F5R or 818(R)(S) or FFR 818)
Touch screen rear mirror with Nav, DVR forward facing camara, Bluetooth and touch screen audio $275.00
Precut body wrap.....depends on material.

Thoughts??

[Xusia]

I think those are valuable services to offer the community. Not sure if I'd use any personally, but that's only because I'm a cheap *******! :D

[longislandwrx]

13749

http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1238

Motive 3 port boost control for only $85... same performace as ones costing more save a few bucks!

Perrin $115
Cobb $105
Grimm $105

[Mechie3]

^^ Not worth it (to buy from them). All they do is buy off the shelf 2 way 3 port valves and rebrand them and (sometimes) put a connector on it. I bought an ARO valve for $25 and crimped my own spade connectors on it. The valve above is just a rebranded MAC valve that they probably bought for $20 in bulk.

[WIS89]

If you purchase the pallet they will need to supply you a photocopy of the title for the state inspection. The state has to confirm the parts are not stolen. On the copy will be the vin. If enough interest I will become a vendor. Here some other things I was thinking.

818 spec'ed wheels.....$360-$480.00 for a set of 4
818 spec'ed seats......$300.00-$650.00 including CF.
Donor locate services.....TBD but less then $200.00
Gauge pod resetting......$189.00... Zeroing odometer
Gauge pod overlay with custom wording....$50.00 (Factory Five Racing or F5R or 818(R)(S) or FFR 818)
Touch screen rear mirror with Nav, DVR forward facing camara, Bluetooth and touch screen audio $275.00
Precut body wrap.....depends on material.

Thoughts??

Kalstar-

I think there are some great ideas in there. I bet you will have even a few more ideas coming up. I am sure there will be some really popular items in the group you already are considering. Could be very cool-- in my opinion...

Regards,

Steve

[Evan78]

13749

http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1238

Motive 3 port boost control for only $85... same performace as ones costing more save a few bucks!

Perrin $115
Cobb $105
Grimm $105


^^ Not worth it (to buy from them). All they do is buy off the shelf 2 way 3 port valves and rebrand them and (sometimes) put a connector on it. I bought an ARO valve for $25 and crimped my own spade connectors on it. The valve above is just a rebranded MAC valve that they probably bought for $20 in bulk.
From the link:

Oh look! It's yet another EBCS!

Yep. On the bandwagon for this one.

Just like everyone you get:


The good MAC valve (Yes, same winding and specs all the other "unique" ones out there. We have part numbers and drawings to prove it.)
Bracket
Barb hose fittings
OEM style plug so no splicing

Now, you might just say "Whoopiteedoo!! It's just like all the other ones out there." You'd be absolutely completely 100% right.....

Except......

Wait for it.....

Motive Autowerks is $85. Unlike the $115-120 you see from everyone else. Is this blatant dumping on the market. Perhaps. I'm sure some will say so. I just call it appropriately pricing something. You know, the exact same thing we've been doing for years.

[longislandwrx]

yeah that was my point of posting it, it's much cheaper than the other 3.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/RO3sl.jpg
Unorthodox Racing Pulley Set. Crank and Alternator. Part number: 041301412.

[longislandwrx]

http://www.probolt-usa.com/

lightweight aluminum stainless and titanium bolts in all shapes sizes and color.

some amazing stuff.

[Mechie3]

Completely overkill, but STI 6 pot front brakes. Only came on a small number of JDM special editions, so they're a bit expensive, but look cool. Pointless for the 818, but still a cool part. ;)

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/images/uploads/article_images/sti07brakes_front.jpg

[508wrx]

If we use the cluster bezel from the wrx they make a really cool bezel that holds 2 gauges. Keep everything pretty clean too.


link to what I'm refering to.
note: this is not the one I have, just an example.
http://www.importimageracing.com/smy-clustermaker-gauge-pod-2002-2007-subaru-wrx-sti.html

[longislandwrx]

The SMY one is the best out there, fit is perfect. highly recommend it.

[mekohler]

Race Capture Pro pro-level race car data and real-time telemetry
http://www.indiegogo.com/RaceCapture/x/1968109

[longislandwrx]

Carbon Fiber Turbo Inlet

14546

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/products/intake/csk/index.html

$600

[philly15]

Carbon Fiber Turbo Inlet

14546

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/products/intake/csk/index.html

$600

lol why just get a normal turbo inlet i usually buy the godspeed inlets off ebay for $70 have held up very well however i think i might splurge and find a hard inlet for this project

[philly15]

also does anyone have any insight on wheel fitment for the 818? trying to get an idea of what i will need for custom track wheels just wondering if anyone heard the pics for the prototype show 18" wheels with i think a 255-45-18 iirc so im assuming its at least an 8" wide wheel

[wleehendrick]

also does anyone have any insight on wheel fitment for the 818? trying to get an idea of what i will need for custom track wheels just wondering if anyone heard the pics for the prototype show 18" wheels with i think a 255-45-18 iirc so im assuming its at least an 8" wide wheel

The Prototypes had Forgestar F14's: http://www.forgestar.com/v2/wheelsf14.php

If you want to duplicate that staggered 18" set-up (225/40 front, 255/35 rear) ideally you would want an 8" front and 9" rear; no idea about offsets.

[JeromeS13]

Without knowing the offset, everything is a shot in the dark. I'm holding off for quite a while before I invest in a set of wheels.

[Rasmus]

Carbon Fiber Turbo Inlet

14546

I can imagine how the install on that piece goes. I had a issues just getting one of the normal aftermarket silicon inlets installed. Even with the alternator, steering pump flopped out of the way; and the EVAP and TGV systems removed it was a *****. Getting a hard CF piece installed would require removing and reinstalling the entire intake manifold with it's wiring harness and the fuel rails.

Neat piece though.

[longislandwrx]

yeah the APS hard pipe could not be installed without pulling the manifold... and even still the couplers were such a pain to get on.

[philly15]

Without knowing the offset, everything is a shot in the dark. I'm holding off for quite a while before I invest in a set of wheels.

youd be using the hubs from the donor....so assuming 02-07 wrx its +53 offset unless there is special adapters needed for the car too, also i wouldnt use 18" wheels i would go 17" for daily wheels (i have a set of 17x9 enkei rpf1's i plan on using) and for track wheels if i can make 16"s work im gonna do it

[508wrx]

I can imagine how the install on that piece goes. I had a issues just getting one of the normal aftermarket silicon inlets installed. Even with the alternator, steering pump flopped out of the way; and the EVAP and TGV systems removed it was a *****. Getting a hard CF piece installed would require removing and reinstalling the entire intake manifold with it's wiring harness and the fuel rails.

Neat piece though.

+1. Though I would probably end up smashing this before I managed to install it. I say this having installed an aftermarket inlet before... never again.

[JeromeS13]

youd be using the hubs from the donor....so assuming 02-07 wrx its +53 offset unless there is special adapters needed for the car too, also i wouldnt use 18" wheels i would go 17" for daily wheels (i have a set of 17x9 enkei rpf1's i plan on using) and for track wheels if i can make 16"s work im gonna do it

This idea would only hold true if the suspension were identical and if the wheel arch extended the same distance from the hub (which I'm pretty sure neither will be the same).

[AJW Performance]

More Affordable Adapters:

15mm and 25mm options

15mm: http://ajwperformanceproducts.com/store/#!/~/product/category=954685&id=19207416

25mm: http://ajwperformanceproducts.com/store/#!/~/product/id=19207417



http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u160/awalla5150/014_zpsdc4b92c2.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u160/awalla5150/photobucket-1739-1358963277462.jpg

[metalmaker12]

14570 whohaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh ej207, just had to throw that in there

[Turboguy]

I can imagine how the install on that piece goes. I had a issues just getting one of the normal aftermarket silicon inlets installed. Even with the alternator, steering pump flopped out of the way; and the EVAP and TGV systems removed it was a *****. Getting a hard CF piece installed would require removing and reinstalling the entire intake manifold with it's wiring harness and the fuel rails.

Neat piece though.


Keep in mind that if you install this BEFORE putting the engine in the 818 you will be working on an engine sitting on the ground, with free access to all sides. Still a lot of work, but a lot easier than doing it in the bay.

[longislandwrx]

Fumoto Valve with Hose Nipple

15516


Awesome for this application. Allows you to change oil with no drips with just a small jug.

proper PN is F105N about $25 everywhere

[TickTack]

^^ Not worth it (to buy from them). All they do is buy off the shelf 2 way 3 port valves and rebrand them and (sometimes) put a connector on it. I bought an ARO valve for $25 and crimped my own spade connectors on it. The valve above is just a rebranded MAC valve that they probably bought for $20 in bulk.
For what it's worth, this isn't entirely true. GrimmSpeed solenoids have a proprietary part number and mod number for a design that they developed directly with MAC. They have features that can't be found in an off-the-shelf valve and cannot be obtained in smaller quantities. For TIC/Motive to claim that they can prove that their solenoid is exactly the same is entirely untrue, since the design of a valve with a proprietary mod number is kept secret (duh).

I'd encourage you to take a closer look at both valves before decided that they're exactly the same. That's all.

EDIT: I suppose I should contribute as well. If I were building anything with an EJ motor (and I have), I wouldn't even think about turning the key without an aftermarket oil pickup. I had a VERY close call in my sti with the stock one breaking and losing oil pressure. Do some searching and decide if you want to chance it or not with the OEM oil pickup. Killer B makes a popular replacement.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/catalog_photos/products/killer_b_motorsport/kil_070_110_1_lg.jpg

[JeromeS13]

My experience with that valve is that it takes FOREVER for it to drain out...

[longislandwrx]

My experience with that valve is that it takes FOREVER for it to drain out...

Yes it takes longer, but faster than getting the laundry powder out to remove an oil stain off the driveway.

[Mechie3]

I have that Killer B oil pickup. The chances of yours breaking are slim (by the numbers) but when it happens, it's expensive. If the engine is already out of the car it makes no sense not to put that part on.

[longislandwrx]

The moroso one is very nice too and is about $60 cheaper about $90

15545

[TickTack]

Yep. Covert Performance makes one as well. I don't really have a favorite, except that just about anything is better than chancing it with the stock unit.

[Xusia]

Possibly a silly question, but for those just looking to deal with the cracking issue (i.e. not trying to solve track oriented g-force issues), is there any reason the stock bracket couldn't be strengthened to prevent the issue (perhaps a weld?)?. Or repaired if it's already cracked? $150 for new pickup is rather cheap as insurance goes, but elbow grease is free...

[longislandwrx]

If cracking they can be rebraised, but its cheaper to buy a new one. They are $21 p/n 15049AA110

people say the welds on the new ones are better and less prone to failure. you can also add your own gusseting if you want to beef it up.

[Mechie3]

It's not so much a bracket as the tube itself cracking. Belief was the brazing and acids left behind by flux, ate the metal and continuous vibration makes it crack.

[Xusia]

Phhht! For $21 I'd just buy a new one. I was going off the price for the aftermarket ones. LOL

[longislandwrx]

Inline E85 analyzer.. has outputs for ECU that support fuel capability scaling


15776

about $380

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.shtml

[longislandwrx]

16168

A company called LIC motorsports modifies the STI knuckles (with bolt in bearings) for WRX fitment.

They take new STI knuckles weld the top hole and redrill it then cnc machines the piece to fit the wrx strut. They also shave them down to clear all brake kits. As an added step you can order them with new bolt in hubs redrilled for 5x100 so your wrx brakes /wheels will work you can also bolt in the std 114 hubs.

the knuckles are $1000 or $1500 with new 5x100 hubs.

http://www.licmotorsports.com/products/lic-motorsports-front-5x1143-knuckles-5x100-02-07-wrx-04-sti_lic-03079012

[Nuul]

Inline E85 analyzer.. has outputs for ECU that support fuel capability scaling


15776

about $380

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.shtml

That's a neat product. How would you vary your tune depending on the percentage though?

[longislandwrx]

certain engine management units have fuel capability scalers... meaning if that sensor sees your e85 as really e60 or e50 the ecu dials back timing and boost automagically. not all ecus have this function.

you could also do it the simple way... your tuner gives you two maps. you gas up with e85... and your sensor tells you its really e70 and you switch manually to the low boost map before any damage occurs.

[papajon1000]

^ also you need to change fuel targets depending on ethanol content but that is a topic for a different day.

[philly15]

or we could all just order barrels of e98 from MAPerformance and not worry about the different blends lol! sucks it used to be waaaaay cheaper than this shoulda bought it back then or do what i did last summer is kept my own drum of e85 when i knew the full summer blend was out so when fall rolled around i had some left for then

http://www.maperformance.com/55-gallon-drum-of-e98-ethanol-racing-fuel.html#.UUPD8hy-2uI

[papajon1000]

Launch control and flat foot shifting for opensource tuning.

Not a part per say but it works very well.

http://www.ecu-mods.com/online/index.php

best part is that launch control is free for 16 bit ecus (02-05 Wrxs)!

[Evan78]

Launch control and flat foot shifting for opensource tuning.

Not a part per say but it works very well.

http://www.ecu-mods.com/online/index.php

best part is that launch control is free for 16 bit ecus (02-05 Wrxs)!Also available for AccessPort users, at least 32 bit ECUs, not sure on 16bit.

[wallace18]

Great article in May 2013 Grassroots Motorsports magazine on tuning a 2002 WRX. Page 101. I liked how they used a 2.2k ohm resister to trick the computer into thinking there is a EGT installed. I won't be replacing mine now. The resister is way cheaper. I thought it would be of interest to some.

[longislandwrx]

No reason to replace the EGT if you have gone to a catless uppipe, it will most likely just burn out again and possibly damage the turbo. Thanks for mentioning it. This is also brought up in the simplifying the EJ thread.

[Zodiac]

anyone know of places that have a braided stainless line kit for the car? would be great to buy all the lines as a pckaged deal instead of individually. At the very least anyone know all the differences sizes you would need and quantity?

[Evan78]

anyone know of places that have a braided stainless line kit for the car? would be great to buy all the lines as a pckaged deal instead of individually. At the very least anyone know all the differences sizes you would need and quantity?Wouldn't FFR include lines if they design it such that OEM WRX lines don't work?

[Silvertop]

Wouldn't FFR include lines if they design it such that OEM WRX lines don't work?

They would probably provide something -- either a modification procedure for existing lines, or something new. But it is unlikely that you would get braided stainless steel. Just my humble opinion...........

[Mechie3]

My guess would be they would supply the hardlines and simply mount the fitting in a location where the OEM rubber lines would work.

I have goodridge lines. Do a google search and any number of Subaru specific vendors should come up. TIC, fastwrx, etc.

[StatGSR]

anyone know of places that have a braided stainless line kit for the car? would be great to buy all the lines as a pckaged deal instead of individually. At the very least anyone know all the differences sizes you would need and quantity?

Lines for what? i know everybody else assumed brakes, but you never said it so....

[Zodiac]

Lines for what? i know everybody else assumed brakes, but you never said it so....

oh basically all the engine bay lines. I see sometimes people replace all the fuel and vacuum lines and what not with stainless braided lines or a combination of braided and colored silicon lines. Wasn't sure if anyone made a kit that had everything or if anyone has a list of all the different sizes needed to do the engine bay. I did however find 16494 at http://www.oakos.com/ in case anyone was looking for stuff like that. Though for the kit some will not be needed since our radiator is not located in the normal location

[FFR-ADV]

Interesting Option: Air Water Intercoolers are used on many mid engine Supercars including a few FFR GTMs:

16509

Fairly reasonable ~ $300 for one which supports up to 600 HP, Bigger ones available.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1006&osCsid=19b32796b0fbf156dea5667af4169211

Interesting installation article:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/water-meth-injection-nitrous-intercooler-cooling/199117-t-gs-air-water-ic-build.html

Cheers!

[Matty_STi]

Possibly a silly question, but for those just looking to deal with the cracking issue (i.e. not trying to solve track oriented g-force issues), is there any reason the stock bracket couldn't be strengthened to prevent the issue (perhaps a weld?)?. Or repaired if it's already cracked? $150 for new pickup is rather cheap as insurance goes, but elbow grease is free...

Just go with a Killer B. Chris knows his stuff and supports some serious race programs. I wouldn't touch anything else. And he has a great presence in the Subie community and is always open to chat!

-Matt

[Flamshackle]

Interesting Option: Air Water Intercoolers are used on many mid engine Supercars including a few FFR GTMs:

16509

Fairly reasonable ~ $300 for one which supports up to 600 HP, Bigger ones available.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1006&osCsid=19b32796b0fbf156dea5667af4169211

Interesting installation article:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/water-meth-injection-nitrous-intercooler-cooling/199117-t-gs-air-water-ic-build.html

Cheers!

This will be the best solution to our intercoing issues, you won't need to duct much air back that way at all if you go water/air.

[Mechie3]

I just use plain silicone for my lines. The kits are good if everything is retained in a factory location. If you move things, they're formed in un-formable bends and become useless.

[Twinspool]

This will be the best solution to our intercoing issues, you won't need to duct much air back that way at all if you go water/air.

I'm not seeing how adding a pump, water, plumbing, wiring and a second heat exchanger will be a good fit. All you're buying with that mass and additional complexity is the heat capacity of the water. You will still be limited by the air-water exchanger's inability to reject energy as it approaches ambient.

If you're concerned about the flow across the intercooler, a fan (http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=FALO)or duct is the simplest solution. A STi IC sprayer would be a slick addition too, especially in a low-humidity region where the evaporative cooling is more effective.

[Flamshackle]

I'm not seeing how adding a pump, water, plumbing, wiring and a second heat exchanger will be a good fit. All you're buying with that mass and additional complexity is the heat capacity of the water. You will still be limited by the air-water exchanger's inability to reject energy as it approaches ambient.

If you're concerned about the flow across the intercooler, a fan (http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=CategoryBody&c=FALO)or duct is the simplest solution. A STi IC sprayer would be a slick addition too, especially in a low-humidity region where the evaporative cooling is more effective.

Have you read the links and researched water to air? its compelling stuff.
You cop some complexity for sure but the gains are worth it IMO.
I have never gone with water to air myself but I think in this application its worth it more than others. Water sprayers are added complexity as well remember.

[JeromeS13]

Plus, you can add ice before a track session and get sub-ambient temps... :-D

[Xusia]

I'm not in favor of added complexity, and most likely will stick with an air-to-air intercooler. Still, water is absolutely superior to air when it comes to heat extraction. Cases in point: Virtually all high performance cars and motorcycles use water cooled engines. Extreme computer overclockers use water cooling (or sometimes another liquid, but not air) to push CPU performance limits.

There are probably a myriad examples, but hopefully the point is clear! :)

[Twinspool]

Plus, you can add ice before a track session and get sub-ambient temps... :-D

Yes, which is great as long as the race is very short. As soon as the water reaches ambient all benefit is gone and now you're just carrying mass around and trying to dump all that heat energy to the air faster than you can load it up. Also, if you ice up your water tank below ambient and you don't have a thermostat, you're absorbing atmospheric air heat AND your charge air heat before you even load the engine!

heat capacity of air at approximate turbo discharge temp/pressure of 140°C and 2 bar is about 1.01 kJ/kg-K
mass airflow of an engine at WOT - let's just call it 0.200 kg/s which should be plenty to make ~300hp.

22.725kJ/s

Really roughing it, no integration, assuming 100% efficiency, neglecting pumping losses, heat exchanger transfer modes and all that you'll raise the temperature of the water about 1°F per second of WOT load assuming you have a 3 gallon water capacity.

If you're going to be an autocross hero, or just blast a couple on-ramps on your way to work it could function beautifully. Open track half-hour heat, I'm not so sure. Read about the heat soak problems the LS9 is having and see if the whole air-water thing still sounds good for anything longer than a few miles of hard driving.

[FFR-ADV]

Hi Twinspool,

Yes, any dry ice added to the icebox/ reservoir would have a limited time benefit but the radiator for the Air Water Intercooler continues to get ambient air rammed thru it at the front of the car. Just like the air to air intercooler, it cannot drop bellow ambient (after the ice has melted) unless evaporative spray cooling is applied to the radiator just as it might be applied to an air to air intercooler. I will still likely start with the TMIC on my 818, but this is an option I want to learn more about.

16527

Here is a very nice 1200 HP GTM using two air/water intercoolers. I believe a similar air/water intercooler is used on GT40s on the track and also in the Bugatti Veyron.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Aewbo-Orb3M

Perhaps the GTM builder might share how well his air/water intercooler worked out and any lessons learned in this build?

Cheers!

[Flamshackle]

Yes, which is great as long as the race is very short. As soon as the water reaches ambient all benefit is gone and now you're just carrying mass around and trying to dump all that heat energy to the air faster than you can load it up. Also, if you ice up your water tank below ambient and you don't have a thermostat, you're absorbing atmospheric air heat AND your charge air heat before you even load the engine!

heat capacity of air at approximate turbo discharge temp/pressure of 140°C and 2 bar is about 1.01 kJ/kg-K
mass airflow of an engine at WOT - let's just call it 0.200 kg/s which should be plenty to make ~300hp.

22.725kJ/s

Really roughing it, no integration, assuming 100% efficiency, neglecting pumping losses, heat exchanger transfer modes and all that you'll raise the temperature of the water about 1°F per second of WOT load assuming you have a 3 gallon water capacity.

If you're going to be an autocross hero, or just blast a couple on-ramps on your way to work it could function beautifully. Open track half-hour heat, I'm not so sure. Read about the heat soak problems the LS9 is having and see if the whole air-water thing still sounds good for anything longer than a few miles of hard driving.


You do know that there is a radiator at the front transferring heat in an air to water scenario right?
Just do you research online and in current applications and see for yourself.

There are pro's and cons to both and in this 818 application (where the airflow to the intercooler is in question) water to air has a few pro's on its side.
Let's not go on and on here about what's better as its just a foolish argument. They both have their applications and in different scenarios one will have benefits the other hasn't.

[FFR-ADV]

Here is another interesting part.

One of the upgrades I am planning for my 818 is a pedal set with a balance beam and adjuster. The 818R has a Wilwood pedal set, though if you watch carefully halfway from the track test video the adjuster knob was removed from the dash (curious). This lets you dial the front rear bias for street and for track. Whatever the WRX bias is is likely not right for the 818. I like to think of the 818 as a "Plated Racecar."

16546

16547

Here is a link: http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPedalTip.aspx

Cheers!

[Samiam1017]

Wilwood also makes a lever that would adjust the rear brake only if you were using stock pedals.

[Zodiac]

did some searching and found these

Camry Headlights (http://www.xtralights.com/02-06toyotacamryprojectorheadlightswled-eyelashes-blackpair.aspx?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=organic&gclid=COWLsJey-LYCFWNxQgodiRcAyQ)

Nice option to have instead of the stock headlights

[Xusia]

Those do look nice.

[bnr32jason]

They look very similar to eBay headlights that are half the price. I wonder if there is a quality difference to justify the price?

[longislandwrx]

I wonder what headlight FF will choose, I imagine it will be cheaper to pick an aftermarket DOT approved lamp than an OEM. maybe we'll get some decent looking projectors that are not too ricey.

[Turboguy]

Just an observation, but this thread is going to get pretty bulky in a hurry if every time someone posts a "cool part" there 10 "oooooh that looks pretty" or "my dad has that on his car" comments.

[SkiRideDrive]

Here is another interesting part.

One of the upgrades I am planning for my 818 is a pedal set with a balance beam and adjuster. The 818R has a Wilwood pedal set, though if you watch carefully halfway from the track test video the adjuster knob was removed from the dash (curious). This lets you dial the front rear bias for street and for track. Whatever the WRX bias is is likely not right for the 818. I like to think of the 818 as a "Plated Racecar."

16546

16547

Here is a link: http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPedalTip.aspx

Cheers!

Has anyone here had a lot of luck with the wilwood driver adjustable bias? We ran one on a small formula car years ago and it never worked very well.

[Mechie3]

Did you use wilwood's pedal or one you made yourself? The inside of the pedal needs to be smooth to allow the bearing to slide freely.

[longislandwrx]

Grimmspeed Intercooler/Splitter/Y-Pipe Just released for 02-07 WRX/STI... been waiting for this one for a while. A truly engineered IC made in the USA for a fair price.

Have already ordered mine. Group buy right now at a significant savings.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=39796328&posted=1#post39796328

17649

[bnr32jason]

Thanks for the heads up, think I'm gonna pull the trigger on the group buy for the intercooler and y-pipe.

[Hiryu]

I can't remember if the 818 will use the Impreza steering column and wheel, but if it does...AND if people want to keep the standard steering wheel hub/horn/air bag/cruise control but want a smaller and grippier wheel, then the Prova D-shaped wheel rim replacements are great:

http://www.murtaya.com/Mike/MurtayaPicsNotInSite/MurtayaProvaDWheel.jpg

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Prova-D-Shaped-Steering-Wheel-Subaru-WRX-STI-2005-2007

I originally had a stock 2005 STi steering wheel on the Murtaya, and while it felt fine in an Impreza interior, it was way too big for a smaller car like the Murtaya. The Prova D shaped wheel completely changes the character of the car--it feels sporty and great (even though I didn't really like the thought of Alcantera on the wheel) and is perfect for the smaller dimensions.

The downside is the price, but I know it was well worth it for me.

Mike

[bnr32jason]

That is pretty cool that you are able to replace the rim and maintain the airbag and mounting points. But will the airbag even work? I thought without all the fancy sensors built into the car that it wouldn't work. I may be incorrect on that assumption though.

[Hiryu]

I guess the 'keeping the airbag' bonus is more for people using this on the standard Imprezas. I'd be surprised if the airbag would still work in the 818. Even if it could still deploy, I probably wouldn't want it to; the different dimensions and specs of the car from what the airbags were initially developed for might make it more dangerous than helpful (I made sure it was disabled on the Murtaya for that reason).

[DodgyTim]

What about the Shorai sport bike lithium batteries?
The LFX27L3 has 405 CCA, about the same as standard, carbon case, weighs about 4lb, and is $250 on eBay.

[Ironhydroxide]

http://autoplicity.com/products/2367208-manley_190060b_subaru_83mm_crank.aspx?utm_source=g oogle&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=2367208NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GSNOFITMENT&adtype=pla&kw=&utm_term=&adpos=1o5&network=g&gclid=CO7b3PjNqbcCFWSCQgod1FEAmA


83mm stroke crankshaft..... i've done the calculations and this puts an EJ22 with 25 stock length rods and stroker pistons at roughly a 10:1 (gasket depending) and 2478cc displacement. NICE.


OH and it takes both 3 and 5 position thrust bearings, so no worries for those with phase 1, phase 2, or machined phase 1. (meaning you can run TWO thrust bearings, though i don't know why you'd want to)

[longislandwrx]

New Aim Sports Steering wheel! :eek:

20190

$1600!

[Mechie3]

Don't buy the billet radiator mounts posted in this thread. The 818 mounts the radiator a little differently and you won't be able to use them. Just a little FYI.

[JAubin]

Are new radiator brackets provided, or do you still need the stock ones? My donor's radiator and everything near it was totally demolished.

[Mechie3]

Use modified stockers.

[JAubin]

Cool those stay on the "To buy" list.

[flynntuna]

FFR has a "New school 818" t-shirt in their parts catalog. Out of stock for now, though the picture is there. Very cool:cool:

[longislandwrx]

26317

APR carbon fiber NACA ducts, I may use these for my front brakes. about $100 each

[bompus]

26318

PLX Multi Gauge ( OLED ) and Wideband O2 sensor+module. PLX has quite a few modules which you can daisy chain to a single gauge. My 818s build will have an Electromotive TECs ECU so I am planning on hooking up the following sensor modules to a multi gauge: wideband AFR, air intake temp, vacuum/boost, EGT, oil pressure, water temp. As far as I know all of the modules will accept the signal from the associated sensor and provides an analog output to go to your ECU from there. The gauge also features programmable warnings. Does anybody have experience with their gauges or sensor modules?

[FFRSpec72]

FFR has a "New school 818" t-shirt in their parts catalog. Out of stock for now, though the picture is there. Very cool:cool:

They should include one in each build !

[gwarden]

Bring it back to the top

[evilfirbolg]

Hey fellas. I have yet to post here but wanted to share these guys with ya

http://tssfab.us/wp/

dunno if any of ya are aware of em but they are ggod folk and will gladly fab things special for ya if ya need 'em.

Just a quick intro, I am a hardcore Subie guy, this is my daily driver...
28204
in snow trim. It's a fully caged, JVAB/ Bilstein suspended little beast. I am vacillating on whether to build one of these and am vicariously following all of yer builds. If I do jump in I already have SOHC Hybrid that makes silly numbers and will most likely have TSS make me some LCAs among other bits. Just thought I would share their website and maybe see if it gave any of ya any ideas.

[longislandwrx]

40838

Radium fuel rails. use optional inrail pusation dampeners, made in usa, great price.

http://www.radiumauto.com/Top-Feed-Fuel-Rail-Upgrade-Kit-for-Subaru-P631.aspx