Plan ahead

[MVRight]

Testing starting a new thread and to help out others as others have helped me. What not to do....

Installed my rear axle and shocks all by myself. Feeling kind of pleased until I started looking at the rear disk brakes my friend PJ provided. Forgot/didn't consider that the axles need to be removed to install the mounting bracket. :(

Yep, it's filled. Not the first oops in the build, but probably one of the messiest to date. Oh well.

12358

[Gumball]

Plan for and drill all the necessary holes in the chassis (grounds, wire/cable brackets, ancilliary components, etc...) BEFORE the engine is in for the last time.

[AZPete]

From my "Don't ask how I know" file:
Don't rivet the rear cockpit panel until you finish riveting in the trunk floor.
If you want to extend the driver's footbox on the outside, do it before you mount the body.
There's a specific torgue spec for your brake caliper banjo bolts. Don't just guess, look it up.
Don't rivet the 'F' panels, as the manual says, but cleco them until you finish the front brakes.
Don't lower the jack unless the wheels are mounted. (I actually did that.)
Pete

[CraigS]

Don't give up yet. Some caliper brackets are a "C" shape so they can be installed w/ the axle in place. Don't look at the end of the axle housing which is maybe 2.5 inches in diameter. Look at the axle itself which is maybe 1 1/4 inch diameter. Cut a slot in your bracket on the side opposite of the caliper just wide enough to clear the axle and install.

[MVRight]

Don't give up yet. Some caliper brackets are a "C" shape so they can be installed w/ the axle in place. Don't look at the end of the axle housing which is maybe 2.5 inches in diameter. Look at the axle itself which is maybe 1 1/4 inch diameter. Cut a slot in your bracket on the side opposite of the caliper just wide enough to clear the axle and install.

Did a quick look for C-shaped brackets and came up empty. Might look again. Good thought on cutting a slot. Was considering that, just wondering if it would weaken the bracket. After doing yard work tomorrow, might take a beer into the garage and do some thinkin' :rolleyes:

[CraigS]

Look thru this thread from the other forum.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/278040-new-brakes-back.html
Naturally OEMs don't do this cause they assemble them in order. But I'd do it in a heartbeat if in your situation.

[MVRight]

Look thru this thread from the other forum.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/278040-new-brakes-back.html
Naturally OEMs don't do this cause they assemble them in order. But I'd do it in a heartbeat if in your situation.

Thanks, hadn't seen that thread. Certainly a less messy option than draining the diff and pulling the axles.

Thanks again. Used to live in Tracys Landing/Deale area, now way north

[pjdavis]

Bruce - Don't forget I am just around the corner from you and have made every mistake one can make during the build process - sometimes made the same mistake multiple times! Please don't hesitate to call!

PJ

[PaulW]

I did the same thing. Ultimately it was easiest just to drain the rearend and pull the axles. It didn't take that much time and the cost was just for new oil.

[ajt725]

Ok, I will admit I did it too :o

[wbulk]

If you are painting stripes, paint the stripe color first. Then tape off for the main color. It's easier than taping off for the stripes than taping off the whole car. If you do paint the main color first and the color is blue, don't use blue fine line tape. It's really had to see if the tape is straight against a blue base.