Master Cylinder Setup

[racephotoman]

I just started installing the master cylinders and was wondering how far in to you screw in the cylinder's threaded shaft (w/jam nut) into the pedal female joint? The other question is the studs on the pedal mount that the cylinder suppose to attach to are too short (the lock nuts go only half way in and never tighten)....I gingerly tried to turn out the studs with a vise grip, but found it wouldn't move and didn't want to destroy the threads. I thinking of forcing them out and replace them...Is this normal??? Any other suggestions. Again, Thanks!

Walter

[acth4347]

What kind of master cyclinder(s?) are you using and what are you putting it(them) into? Does this have a vacuum booster and are you using spacers? A couple of pictures would help about now. Bill

[racephotoman]

Was going to add a photo when I got home....but found some info since:
Actually during the day I found a thread referring to this exact thing, and yes the mounting studs are too short. Several options to fit were also recommended. I did double nut the short studs and were able to crank them out another 1/4," giving me a bit more thread for the lock nut to go on. Since I'm able to remove the studs, I probably will opt to replace them with longer ones (will look at McMasters). Another suggestion was to use a shorter (Height) lock nut and/or attach with LocTite. I was told the supplied studs on the pedal assembly were originally installed with probably red LocTite---again, I was surprised how easily I was able to remove them (luckily). The other question, looking closer at the master cylinders and instructions via the Wilwood website, see I don't have to be too careful at this time adjusting them---doing it later.

Thank You!
Walter

[Rootbeer Roadster]

Walter

It sounds like you have the Willwood pedal box and the two supplied master cylinders. The brake pedal height is set by adjusting the threaded shaft on both master cylinders. Go ahead and adjust both shafts to move the pedal up to where you want it and far enough to compress the brake light switch. Once you have the height set correctly you will need to extend the shaft on the front master cylinder while shortening the shaft on the rear master cylinder the same amount. Start with about two turns out in the front and two turns in on the rear. Put your bias bar in the middle. All of this will need final adjustments after the brakes are bled and you can drive it.

I attached the master cylinders to the pedal box studs using the supplied nuts. The studs are too short, but were long enough to engage the locking mechanism on the nylon lock nuts. They also make low profile nylon lock nuts that are half the height of the other ones. Like I said I used the supplied nuts on mine and they are still tight.

Jeff

[racephotoman]

Thanks Jeff!

[CraigS]

Final adjustment of the pushrods should have the balance bar at a 90 degree angle when the brakes pedal is depressed to max pressure. This may have the balance bar at a bit of an angle at rest. Naturally this can't be checked until the system is complete and air bled out of the system.