Spent my WHOLE weekend under my Roadster...

[David Hodgkins]

After a mere 4 thousand miles, my aluminum racing clutch was toast so I decided to change it out. I built my roadster with a Quartermaster clutch and aluminum flywheel. Starting from a dead stop has always been a pain on the street because you can't just dump it like you would on the track. Also the aluminum flywheel (it turns out) has a profound effect on the general manners of the car. It always bucked in low RPMs and was not a lot of fun to drive. I couldn't hold a constant RPM either at street or highway speeds. I was ALWAYS accelerating and then coasting. If I tried to hold it at a constant speed it would start bucking. I thought it was a problem with the tune but it turns out that the difference in the rotational mass between a steel and aluminum flywheel and clutch was DRAMATIC.

Another issue I've had is the Hydraulic throwout bearing(HTB). The difference between a HTB and a standard throwout bearing(TB) is this: An HTB works like a piston. It straddles the transmission input shaft like a standard TB but the piston extends to actuate the clutch fingers instead of riding on a clutch fork. It worked fine but in order to adjust it I had to TAKE OUT the transmission and add (or take away) adjustment rings(Spacers). I've had my transmission in and out of my car 3 times in 4 thousand miles. That's fine for the track but not for street duty! SO, I decided to change it out to a standard TB and clutch fork, actuated by a FORTE (http://www.fortesparts.com/) external hydraulic clutch slave. Mike's solution uses an adjustable pusher type slave that actuates the clutch fork. BTW I HIGHLY recommend Mike.

It took all weekend but my car was REBORN today! Changing from a hydraulic throwout bearing (HTB) to a standard clutch fork with a hydraulic slave was a LOT of work! But as I'll explain, going from the aluminum flywheel/clutch setup to a SPEC clutch and steel flywheel was HUGE in the way the car drives now!

during our 2-day odyssey we found out that the sleeve on the front of the tranny used for the HTB was different than standard. When I got my new clutch it came with a throwout bearing that had a LOT of slop on the sleeve. Also the sleeve was too short for a standard throwout bearing. Anthony (Antney), Frank(frankeeski) and John(JJ'sSnakepit) coordinated between themselves and produced a plethora of new T5 sleeves to try. They all had a thicker sleeve that fit the new throwout bearing perfectly. Anthony produced one that was solid steel, fit the T5 to a tee, had the proper sleeve diameter and was long enough so that the TB wouldn't slide off when actuated.

They also helped me true up the transmission for the new Quicktime Bellhousing (another FORTE part). It took a long time to button everything up, bleed the clutch line and make some adjustments for setting the clutch fork but at 5pm today we took the roadster off the lift. The new flywheel and clutch were a revelation. All the bucking disappeared and starting from a dead stop was super smooth! The car is a JOY to drive for the first time.

I learned a lot this weekend, chief among them is that an aluminum flywheel and race clutch setup is the WRONG setup for the street, and how much a steel flywheel can make a difference in the way the car behaves.

THANK YOU Frank, John and Anthony for your friendship and help! I REALLY appreciate it! Now my car drives as good as it looks!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10786&d=1342915656

:)

[Garry Bopp]

David,

Glad to hear you are finally enjoying driving the roadster! I also switched from aluminum to steel flywheel with great results ... much better driveability.

Garry

[Mike N]

David, Glad to see that you are back on the road and happy with the new set up. Your car looks night and day different with the new paint and aluminum polish work compared to the last time I saw it in gel coat with the uncoated side pipes etc. You must be very happy with how it turned out.

By the way I have the SPEC 2 clutch in mine with a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and it works just fine, I have a feeling that your issues may have been more with the small diameter race type clutch than the flywheel.

[skullandbones]

Hi David,

Glad you were able to tame that "bucking bronco". I remember having a similar problem with a hot rod. My 55 Chevy would chatter when leaving a traffic stop. I replaced the pressure plate and the problem went away. I think it may have been warped but it's hard to pin those thing down sometimes. But you were smart to go to a more streetable setup. Good luck. BTW, that polished trunk is nice! I bet you get a lot of comments on that. WEK.

[CraigS]

Can you give part numbers for the clutch please. And is the steel flywheel standard weight or lightened.BTW a friend w/ a 351 in a Lonestar roadster went thru the same thing this spring. He didn't wear out his clutch but had the on/off switch type engagement unless he revved it a lot more than needed. Got tired of it and replaced it w/ much more street type lining on the disc. I don't remember the brand but they have discs w/ and w/o springs and several type linings available so he got a more street type disc.

[David Hodgkins]

Craig,

I got a SPEC clutch from TRE performance, on recommendation from Frank (and others). They are very close to me so I was able to go pick it up, or should I say order it because the Transmission I have is a 26 spline T5, which is not standard.
http://treperformance.com/i-1000-ford-mustang-1986-1995-5-0l-stage-2-spec-clutch.html

I spoke to folks that have king cobra clutches and they like those as well. If i were you I'd give Mike Forte a call and see what he recommends.

:)

The flywheel I used is the FMS part that came with the crate motor. NOT lightened. I had taken it off to install the Quartermaster aluminum flywheel/clutch.

[Movieman]

Brought back memories from the late 60's when the racers started using aluminum flywheels and then the street guys learned real fast that it was a mistake for the street.
Sorry to hear you went through this.
First time I saw your car, a beauty!:D

[efnfast]

Glad you got it working to your liking

but

I have one and I love it :)

Not too sure where your problems came from - we have the same setup (I assume from Gordon) and I can cruise just fine at, say, 1200 rpm with no bucking. The only time it bucks is if I try to slip the clutch to do a slow start.

[CraigS]

Thanks for the info. I am gathering info for a future change to a somewhat lighter flywheel (probably steel) and a clutch to go w/ it but I don't want the problems you had. I saved your link.