Flat Washer Use

[racephotoman]

Is there a rule of thumb regarding the use of flat washers, basically under unflanged bolts and nuts/lock nuts? I'm running into a few situations where either the washer count is wrong and/or the instruction pictures are a little inconsistent, hence is there a rule when you should or not use them, especially in torqueing conditions?
Might be over thinking this!!!!
Thanks!

Walter

[Bob Cowan]

The washer serves a few purposes. It prevents damage and galling of the area under the nut or head. The smooth surface of the washer helps in getting a consistant torque reading. And it helps spread the clamping force out a bit.

[dallas_]

What Bob said.

If you want more detailed information, I highly recommend Carroll Smith's outstanding series of books. Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing covers the subject very well.

[skullandbones]

Just to ease your mind and take it off the peice count mill, you should probably purchase a box of various common fastners. I found myself using a lot of 5/16 lock nuts (nylon liner). Also, I got some deeper shank rivets for some areas that I felt were needed. Not that FFR shorts you or anything like that. It saves some time in the long run and helps build your inventory for the next build. I am in the process of reorganizing my tools and various garage drawers so I'm sure a lot of the small things will start showing up. Like I said: there's always another build. Good luck, WEK.

[racephotoman]

Do you think it would be a good choice to use a locking flare nut and flare bolt where ever possible (basically replacing FFR bolts/nuts...or again am I over thinking this?

Thanks, Walter

[dallas_]

The nuts & bolts that FFR provides are adequate.

But if you feel better about higher quality fasteners, go for it. We upgraded the fasteners in a number of areas but it's just personal preference.

Whatever you decide to do, you will want to check your suspension fasteners on a regular basis anyway.

[Mike N]

My personal preference is to use a flat washer under the bolt head and the nut unless they are flanged such as the Ford control arm bolts / nuts. The washers help spread the load and will give you a much more consistent torque. By the way always torque the nut rather than the bolt when you have the choice. I also like to use Nyloc style nuts where ever possible. One more thing make sure that you have at least two threads showing past the nut when the joint is torqued. I replaced quite a few of the supplied bolts because they weren't long enough and I added washers in locations were they weren't indicated.

[skullandbones]

One thing about using flat washers in these applications (using aluminum) is that some of the various peices like conventional split lock washers damage the surface. So using the flat washers can mitigate that issue. Therefore, some of the fasteners end up being a little short with the added components. Most people wouldn't even think of all of the little details that are associated with building one of these projects. It gets down to that level of detail which is another example of how much time is spent that doesn't really show in the finished product. I'm at the local hardware store so much that people mistake me for an employee! WEK.

[CraigS]

I agree w/ MikeN. And w/ WEK. I walked into my True Value the other morning and one guy asked if I needed any help. I said I thought I was OK and one of the others said, yeah, I think he knows where more stuff is than I do.

[racephotoman]

Thanks everyone....being a neophyte at this build seeing a washer or two missing, a bolt too short, etc. I was thinking I'm doing something wrong...thanks again for steering me in a good direction - and especially WEK's "level of detail" comment to guide me further into a super build!

Walter