wax/grease remove???

[RF RIDER]

I bought some wax/grease remover, but then started to think about it. Do you really need to apply the wax/grease remover when you will be sanding the car completely.
would you not sand off this wax/grease (mold release stuff) when preping the car. I am installing roof and side scoops and will be sanding down thru gel coat to raw fibreglass
to bond the scoops on.
Just some thoughts from the fellow body guys about this extra step. I bought the stuff already, so if i need to I will, but wanted to know if its really necessary to do it

thanks

David

[Jacob McCrea]

Yes, it is necessary. If you do not properly clean the body before sanding, grinding, etc. you risk grinding whatever contaminants exist on it, including mold release wax, into the body. Wax, grease, tar, silicone, mold release agents and who knows what else may be on the gel coat; not all will be visible. Paint will not stick to these contaminants. It is tough to remove these contaminants after they are ground into the body with an abrasive. Sanding them also contaminates the sandpaper, so you risk spreading the contaminants around. I don't make many absolute statements, ever, but I would never take an abrasive to a panel without cleaning it with wax and grease remover beforehand. I prefer PPG DX440 but there are other good products out there.

[LCD Gauges]

Body work...now the fun begins.

I ended up going to a Marine shop; they had everything you could ask for to clean, and rework fiberglass.

[VD2021]

Yes, it is necessary. If you do not properly clean the body before sanding, grinding, etc. you risk grinding whatever contaminants exist on it, including mold release wax, into the body. Wax, grease, tar, silicone, mold release agents and who knows what else may be on the gel coat; not all will be visible. Paint will not stick to these contaminants. It is tough to remove these contaminants after they are ground into the body with an abrasive. Sanding them also contaminates the sandpaper, so you risk spreading the contaminants around. I don't make many absolute statements, ever, but I would never take an abrasive to a panel without cleaning it with wax and grease remover beforehand. I prefer PPG DX440 but there are other good products out there.

Exactly.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Exactly.

X2

Jeff

[riptide motorsport]

Yes!

[RF RIDER]

I know what I'll be doing this weekend now.
My dad showed up with a box full of goodies....sanding blocks, sand paper of all sorts of grit. And air body saw, fibreglass mats, resin, bondo, applicators, box of latex gloves, masks
let the body work begin. Best of all, he hands me the bill for the goodies with a smile and says add 10% for shipping and handling. Then passes me a Tim Hortons coffee. Priceless.

[narkosys]

no Timbits????? ;)

P

[RF RIDER]

tonight I took a few minutes to go into the garage and test an area on the body with wax/grease remover. I tested the rear hatch area where the glass sits/covers. Cleaned with rag, and applied wax/grease remover. Says to wipe off when still wet, I did and I had a little red on the cloth and a bit of dark dirt as I would say. Afterwards the area feels smooth, were as the cleaned untouched area feels a little rough. Not really any visual changes. Is this what everyone else is experiencing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Tell Dad to come back with some Comet cleanser and green Scotchbrite pads (and maybe more coffee).

My sequence:
1) Drink coffee (you're gonna need a bit of a jolt to get you wired up for steps #2-5)
2) Wax & grease remover scrubbing with Scotchbrite then wiping with clean rags to pick up the residue.
3) Wax & grease remover using rags, again wiping up the residue with clean ones.
4) Scrub with Comet and Scotchbrite using warm water. This will start to scratch up and dull the gelcoat.
5) Rinse well with warm water.

Jeff

[fastthings]

tonight I took a few minutes to go into the garage and test an area on the body with wax/grease remover. I tested the rear hatch area where the glass sits/covers. Cleaned with rag, and applied wax/grease remover. Says to wipe off when still wet, I did and I had a little red on the cloth and a bit of dark dirt as I would say. Afterwards the area feels smooth, were as the cleaned untouched area feels a little rough. Not really any visual changes. Is this what everyone else is experiencing.

Yes.

A couple things,

The wax and greese removal is usesless, unless you do it right. Jeff just mentioned wiping off the residue. That is how that stuff works. You must start wiping while it's wet, and continue wiping right threw the point to were it flashes off. What is left is residue, wipe it off. The residue is the stuff your looking to remove.

I have done the comet and scuff pad thing, but only on a scummed over barn find. If you use any water, I would only do it before you break the surface of the gelcoat. If you have a build up of something that won't wipe off with a towel, use the w&g with the scuff pad.

It's kinda funny, I will eat a burger with my wiped out dirty hands. Then I will wash them clean before I touch the car I'm working on. You have to be very anal when working with opened up fiber glass, the oil on your fingers can contaminate the glass. Even working with metal, same thing. Once you open the surface of fiber glass you have to turn into a surgen, avoid touching it, tell the kids, hands off!! I have repaired quite a few vettes in my day, and it is madening when the car comes back 6 months later with bubbled up paint because of the glass was contaminated.

Fiber glass will soak up all kinds af contaminates, from water or w&g remover. I would only grind what you'll be able to cover in the same day or so. Leaveing raw glass opened up for weeks leaves way too many opportunities for it to be contaminated. I even worry about the air from my compressor, full of bad mojo.

Good luck,
Gene

[narkosys]

^^ This. You wouldn't believe how many pairs of (non powdered) latex gloves I went through repairing boat hulls.

P