Powder coat Price Estimates per panel or for all

[mcwho]

I am at the phase where I am starting to need price quotes for powder coating. I want the engine panels coated, but am flexable for the others that do not show. My thoughts on those is a good 3m or equiv undercoating paint.

I am thinking of a medium Grey, or brown, or even a silver type color. If some can let me know what their coatings cost per panel, or for all that would help me estimate what I want to get done.

I think I have 50 or so panels

[Arch]

I had all of the panels visible from the front, engine bay, and elephant ears. Silver grey with a clear coat. Cost $150. Money well spent.
Arch

[prophet]

In that kind of shoot, I will price it a couple of ways... either at flat rate hourly if prep is minimal or at .05-.08/sq inch (rough ball park measure) depending on color. As a real rough guesstimate, you're looking $150-$200 for the engine bay panels, foot box front/sides, elephant ears, F panels, etc. That's base/clear unless we did something crazy with candies.

[donpny]

I powdercoated all panels both sides regardless of visibility. I had them done in gray with another application of clear over each side. I spent a little over $500 for all that.
Not sure I got a deal or not but they all look awesome.
I am in upstate New York just for reference.

DonPNY

[Rootbeer Roadster]

I had all of mine powdercoated black like the frame. The cost for the panels including the parts for my hood hinge was $630.

[sharkx]

I don't mean to thread hijack but if your going to powder coat your panels, use a number 30 wire size drill bit instead of a 1/8" drill bit. The 1/8" is .125" inches and with the powder coating, it won't be possible to get the rivets to fit unless you redrill all the holes. In contrast a #30 drill bit is .1285" The extra size means that you won't have to redrill every hole.

Bruce

[Don DePontee]

I don't mean to thread hijack but if your going to powder coat your panels, use a number 30 wire size drill bit instead of a 1/8" drill bit. The 1/8" is .125" inches and with the powder coating, it won't be possible to get the rivets to fit unless you redrill all the holes. In contrast a #30 drill bit is .1285" The extra size means that you won't have to redrill every hole.

Bruce
This is not a good idea as the space taken up by the powder coat will eventually vibrate out leaving a bad fitting panel.
Don

[efnfast]

This is not a good idea as the space taken up by the powder coat will eventually vibrate out leaving a bad fitting panel.
Don

I'd agree - besides, you'll find you won't have to re-drill ~every~ hole out......a lot of times you can wiggle the rivet in still quite easily.

[cobrathegreat]

I did all of mine in black and cost around $150 including hood and door hinges as well as some other small parts.

I agree with the above comments not needing larger holes. I did mine with 1/8 and all rivets fit with a bit of wiggling. A #30 bit would probably have been even easier.

[Sergio]

I did all mine also in Gloss Black for about 400 bucks.

[sharkx]

This may not matter in automotive applications but when installing pop rivets in aircraft we use a #30 drill for almost all 1/8" rivets. When the rivet is set, the rivets expand to fill the gap, but more importantly, if the hole was a close/tight fit before setting, the expanded rivet shank will score just under the head and this will cause a weak point which over time can lead to a fracture and loss of the rivet head. You'll also find that oversize holes will pull two pieces of metal tighter together. Using a 1/8" bit, the 1/8 pop rivet tends to spread the sheets apart slightly and not pull them as snug.

I think I paid around $200 for all the engine panels & elephant ears. I had the powder coater match to a standard duplicolor black so that I could touch up the powder coat if I ever managed to chip it.

Bruce

[rich grsc]

This is not a good idea as the space taken up by the powder coat will eventually vibrate out leaving a bad fitting panel.
Don

Not true, when the rivet is set it will expand in the hole, and how would the PC get 'out' when the rivet is in place?