Trailer Recommendations?

[David Hodgkins]

We're looking for a trailer for the cobra. Something with stiff sides so we can mount cabinets and an awning.

Here's an example of what we're looking for:
http://www.carsontrailer.com/subs/enclosed-cargo-trailers/cargo-trailer/racer-deluxe/racer-deluxe.html

Do you have a recommendation?

TIA!

:)

[Olli]

David,

Try to get either a v-nose or a sloped trailer. The difference in wind drag is substantial. I actually had my Haulmark made with a reduced height as well.

Olli
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/ollijo/Photo4-1.jpg

[mrmustang]

I'll second Olli's recommendation, however, I prefer to see you get a sloped nose and not a V nose as the sloped nose is actually more stable in cross wind situations.


Bill S.

PS: What are you planning to tow with?

[68GT500MAN]

David,
Carson makes some nice trailers, even some with the slant top like mentioned above. I would stay away from a V nose because you loose a lot of storage space and need to get a trailer longer than you planned to make up for it. Something like Karens trailer is about what I think you want. You can find some great deals on Craigslist and if you need someone to check any out up here let me know.
Doug

[Olli]

David,

Something else to look out for. Look for torsion suspension vs. leaf spring.

Lots of good deals on Racingjunk.com. Used and new.

Olli

[RM1SepEx]

I use a 16 foot thule with v nose. The nose is NOT included in the box length. I have a cabinet in the v nose section. Go wide to make it easier to get in and out. mine is 8.5 wide, I like full std 6 ft height.

any full size truck hauls it but diesels work best if you want to use the cruise control with any hilly terrain.

I sleep on an air matteress at long distance two day autocross events, makes a very comfortable low $ camper.

[Garry Bopp]

David,

If you think you might ever mount an A/C unit on top ... have the trailer prewired for it. Also, make sure your driver side access door matches up with the door of the Cobra. I have a friend with a coupe and he has to use a winch to pull his coupe in as the driver side door doesn't quite match up with the coupe door (I know ... not as big a deal with a roadster). I've got a 20' square nose trailer, 6'8" interior height, 8 1/2 width. I've towed around 15,000 miles with my F-150 and it was adequate but struggled on the mountain passes. Just upgraded to an F-250 Powerstroke and it pulls the trailer so easily it's easy to forget you are even towing.

I agree that a slope nose or shorter height trailer is more aerodynamic and easier to tow but I do appreciate being able to stand up straight and move around in the trailer easily.

Garry

[RM1SepEx]

11747

16 x 8.5 all aluminum Thule

Added e track to configure almost any cargo and large D rings inthe 4 corners. mine has 3 1/2 thick walls and has foam insulation on it... previous owner was a spray foam insulation contractor...

stays cool and can heat in the winter easily with a 1500 watt ceramic heater or propane catylitic heater... It didn't get hot inside in 90+ degree sun... (no windows... just a roof vent

I also use an electric winch to a big D ring in the center front floor if needed.

Another issue is the damn hinged plywood ramp ends. Most have aluminum hinges, they suck. they bend and break... I put a piece of wood across the outside top of the rear door/ramp it is now the same height as my 4 post bendpack lift. I use my aluminum bendpak ramps with the trailer... just toss em on the floor under the car.

watch entry angle too... the original ramps can be too steep, I've seen many solutions on this front, also fixing the crappy hinge issue.

I also have made little wedges to fill in the space between the rear door and the trailer floor, makes it easier to push in and out...

I used my friend's F350 to tow to Loring (5 hrs+) this August.... WOW what a sweet tow rig!!!

[vnmsss]

Lots of great ideas here already......Agree with the matching the door exits, which is especially important for Wookies...I can climb out of the Coupe window with the door closed and a full roll cage, but that's not gonna happen for most people. The Haulmarks, Featherlights, and Carsons are all good trailers, and I'm sure there are others as well. If you go with cabinets, make sure the doors are wide enough for a plataic box to fit through, as you'll very likely want to oganize your "stuff" in boxes for storage.

Get sufficient overhead lighting installed (if you're very planning to go to the track), and go for a power jack in the front.

Good luck with your search!

Karen
Agree RacingJunk.com and Craigslist are good places to look.

[Gopher]

Featherlite I got a 16 ft enclosed v nose,with two roof vents plywood on the interior walls e track on floor all for 8500.oo out the door. Its a buyers market out there .

[OCCPete]

I've got a 7x16 V-nosed Stealth Blackhawk (http://www.stealthtrailer.com/products/8/Steel-BlackHawk-Series) with a side escape door. Really nice trailer for a reasonable price. Came standard with aluminum wheels, radial tires, ramp door, torsion axles, loading light, LED marker/turn/tail lights, and stabilizer jacks. I previously had a standard car width 8.5x16 trailer and it was a bit overkill for such a little car.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/36bdaa01.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/9d25b79f.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/1be02402.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/6d11b6f3.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/pballent/63b6652f.jpg


Pete

[David Hodgkins]

Pete,

Those pics are great, thanks for posting them. We haven't made a purchase decision yet, and the examples posted are a real help!

One thing we've noticed is that the pricing is substantially different in the midwest compared to the west coast! Do you think purchasing in Indiana or Wisconsin and then towing it home is cost-effective?

:)

[OCCPete]

Well, I guess you'd have to do the math and figure it out. I ordered my trailer from a dealer near me and drove up to Bristol, IN to pick it up when it was finished. From Dayton, OH, that was about 10 hours round trip, but was cheaper than the delivery charge.

Pete

[Mike N]

One thing we've noticed is that the pricing is substantially different in the midwest compared to the west coast! Do you think purchasing in Indiana or Wisconsin and then towing it home is cost-effective?

:)

David you should call the cheaper places and find out if they can let you pick the trailer up at a closer location. When I bought my Featherlite I bought from a dealer a couple of states away but he arranged for mew to pick it up a lot closer to me. The story I was told is that his sales area agreement with Featherlite did not include my state but that once the trailer was paid for I could pick it up at any of his locations. I seem to remember paying an extra $50 or so for the closer pick up which was a bargain.

[David Hodgkins]

Pete, I kinda knew I was asking a stupid question, thanks for the diplomatic answer. I'll run the numbers. Mike's comment is helpful in this regard as well. Mike, can you share the name of your trailer vendor?

:)

[Mike N]

David I had a quick search for the place I got my trailer from and I have a feeling that they may be out of business. I found them on e-bay originally and they don't currently have a presence there either. It was a few years ago that I bought the trailer and with the economy being the way it is I guess I'm not surprised. They were quite a bit lower in price than any other place I found. Sorry to be of no help whatsoever.

[OCCPete]

Serpent Express for sale in San Diego: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/34-other-vehicles-sale-wanted/296337-serpent-express-trailer.html

[mrmustang]

David,

What are you planning to use as a tow vehicle?


Bill S.

[David Hodgkins]

Pete, I talked with Ray already about his SE. We've decided to get something bigger for accessories.

Bill, we will use either my Excursion or my brother's F250 to pull the trailer.

:)

[RM1SepEx]

get a 8.5 wide trailer, the wheel width is the same and the extra inside width is a big plus. I wired the inside of mine with cheap EBay LED light strips... you can get 15 feet for $10 or less and if you line both sides of the ceiling it lights up a light colored interior well with low 12 volt usage and that is key... power management can help eliminate the need for a generator. I can get way with a couple storage bateries and a big inverter. The truck's alternator charges the storage batteries or can work as a small generator directly running the inverter. The trailer is wired for both 12vDC and 120 volts AC.

Many trailers are steelframes with aluminm boxes (note: the black frames easy to see) Remember heavier trailer usually means less trailer capacity. They all use the sme axles, only 2 -3 vendors, get brakes on both axles. My Thule is all aluminum, important with a smaller tow rig like my v6 Silverado. El Blanco Grande (My friend's F350 Super Duty dually diesel) doesn't care!

[mrmustang]

Pete, I talked with Ray already about his SE. We've decided to get something bigger for accessories.

Bill, we will use either my Excursion or my brother's F250 to pull the trailer.

:)

Now, what is your budget like?

Bill S.

[David Hodgkins]

We'd like to keep it under a max of 15K loaded. From what I've seen that's a really nice steel rig or a used aluminum Featherlight.

:)

[Gumball]

I used to own a 20' Haulmark enclosed trailer. It was very well built and they offered quite a few options when I ordered it. Living in Illinois, I was able to pick it up at a dealer that was just down the road from the factory, which resulted quite a substantial savings. The suggestions above cover quite a few of the "must-do" options, especially the driver's side escape door. Make sure you also take into account things that will cover floor space, like a compressor, pit-bike, carts, etc. If you're going to have a golf cart, you may even want a second fold-down door near the front for that. Ask about flooring options, too, as a heavy-duty vinyl sheet is sometimes more durable than tiles. Don't forget e-track for both the floors and walls, as it makes a great storage and tie-down anchor point.

Just a thought on saving some money on the purchase and delivery. There seems to be quite a few different trailer manufacturers in northern Indiana and other places in the midwest. If you buy one here and want help getting it to the west coast, I'd be happy to pick it up if it's not too far from north-central Illinois and get it to the IL/IA stateline, then turn it over to the next guy in the relay. Maybe you could patch together a string of FFR owners who would work together to get it to the west coast for you.

Best of luck!

[Larry N. Johnson]

David,
If you could do with front stowed tool box, spares, etc inside, the SE is by far the least cost to tow, stow, easier to stop, less of a tow rig, etc.
Much smaller profile.
Just sayin'.

http://serpentexpress.com/images/09f657e73424c7de0d964e5c865a488a.jpg

[jlahl3160]

PM sent

[johnnyb26]

David with as much as $15,000.00 for your budget you should be able to get exactly what you want, I used to sell trailers just up the street from Factory Five let me give some quick info the box length is not effected by a V-Nose you actually gain storage space, Torsion suspension compared to spring suspension the torsion will handle better but cost more and if you bend an axle which is real easy on a torsion they cost about three times as much to replace, depending on size you can get away with 7,000 lb gvw up to 16' but if you go with 10,000 lb it will be safer and on most trailers the chassis will be much stronger and bigger, all car trailers come with 4 tie downs the best way to go is with E-Track you can tie anything down with it , some manufactures give you 1/4 plywood on the inside walls you want 3/8 and you want 16" on ctr most are 24" on ctr this will stiffen it up, the standard on floors is 3/4 thats plenty the side door everyone talks about is called the escape door some manufactures give them standard some charge extra, if you can afford it have a side door on both sides you will want 8 1/2 ft. wide it's the only way to go there is a lot of good trailers out there Aluminum is the way to go but they average about 30 % more in cost the cheapest place to buy seems to be in the South compared to here in New England what use to kill us was the shipping so you have to weigh the difference , hope this helps Good Luck!