Bostik Vs GE II

[racephotoman]

In an attempt to use the "best" products, any opinions which is the best choice: GE II silicon or Bostik adhesive? Also, this might answer itself and appear to lack basic common sense, but I'm I correct in assuming that you locate and drill all the holes for the rivets on a particular aluminum panel before applying the adhesive? My concern would be the silicon would setup too fast before all the rivets were in place.

Walter

[Gumball]

My preference was 3M clear autobody sealant - it comes in both tubes and caulk-gun cylinders and is available through most body supply houses. It remains flexible, gives a good bond, is watertight, and doesn't outgas amonia like silicone can (which can cause paint issues if your body is stored near the car and not cleaned properly.

As for drilling, yes, drill all the holes first, test fit all parts using a few clecos, then assemble. But, you should do the final installation and riveting of the aluminum panels at the last possible moment for each part to ensure that you have sufficient access to the chassis to take care of details. Remember, though, that the foot boxes (at least all but the outside and driver's top panels need to be in before the engine is installed for the final time).

Good luck with your build!!!

[rich grsc]

Use the GE II, if you use Bostik, you will destroy the panels if you ever need to remove them. The GE is plenty strong, anything more just doesnt serve a purpose.

[emac]

I used the ge silicone II as that is what ffr suggested. I figured they had put a few more together than me.

[turbonut48]

The paint and body shop my brother works at doesnt allow silicon sealer to cross the threshold because of fisheye paint issues.

The Nut

[rich grsc]

The paint and body shop my brother works at doesnt allow silicon sealer to cross the threshold because of fisheye paint issues.

The Nut
That is not a problem once the silicon is cured.