Caster Camber setup

[avgjoe]

What do you all use in terms of caster/camber tools w/ the new hubs? I'd like to use a magnetic adapter to have both hands free. What size?

[Mr. Barry]

:confused:
What do you all use in terms of caster/camber tools w/ the new hubs? I'd like to use a magnetic adapter to have both hands free. What size?

Not sure what you mean by "what size"....
I use the simplest of tools to adjust caster and camber....Just a magnetic degree gauge, from Home Depot...
For camber, I cut a piece of 3/4" steel channel, the exact length of the wheel diameter (inside the bead), and put the magnetic degree gauge on that, and check the angle....(keep the wheels straight ahead)....Adjust until you get to the correct camber.
For caster, I put each of the front wheels on a 12" square of vinyl tile....(makes the wheel really easy to turn).The wheels are turned in each direction approx. 20 degrees...Using the same tool, I can adjust the caster....
No matter what you use, there is no really quick way to do it...But, I did take the car to an alignment shop, and they checked it using the computer...I was right on!....
Toe-in is done with a string, run from a jack-stand behind the rear wheel, and just touching the tire, to another jack-stand in front of the front wheel...Pulled taught....If the rear tire is significantly larger, just make sure the string is touching front and rear of the rear tire, and parallel....(sight down the string)....Just add the difference in tire width at the front , plus the toe in....Measure from the string to the front of the tire. Amazing how accurately you can get it, with a little trial and error.
I did buy a toe-in tool at a garage sale for $10....Have never needed or used it.
I love new tools, but can't see spending big bucks on a tool you might use once every couple of years, or more. Only exception to the above would be regular racing, where you might make constant changes, depending on the type of race or track.
Edward

[avgjoe]

Thanks for the input. I prefer the magnetic base as it is easier to index and set the same every time. I know there is a process you go through to "zero" your c/c gauge but I'm afraid that that process would mask some problem developed between the as left and the as found. I do plan on making many tweaks and adjustments to fully understand what's going on. The old hubs/rotor had a pretty meaty surface to attach a magnet to but the new ones, not so much. I would also rather spend the money on seat time but this piece will pay for itself many times over.

Joe

[CHOTIS BILL]

I made ½” thick aluminum setup plates that bolt on instead of the wheels and tires so that I know everything is the same each time it go on the scales. I use a digital protractor against the setup plates to check the camber. I made a caster gauge that attaches to the upper and lower ball joint threaded section and uses the same digital protractor to check the caster. This gauge is direct reading and you don’t have to turn the wheels side to side. I am able to measure from one setup plate to the other using a standard measuring tape to check toe.

Bill Lomenick

[johngeorge]

Joe, I use one of these (Smart Camber Kit digital gauge) on the outside of the tire

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1206
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/3764.JPG

[skullandbones]

I've been reading the various threads on alignment. This is definitely something that we need whether you race or not. Thanks, WEK.