Full width roll bar.

[ddm52]

Where can I purchase a full width roll bar for an MKII?

[Bob Cowan]

It used to be a factory option. AFAIK, nobody sells one off the shelf (so to speak).

Somewhere in your area, I'd almost bet there's a shop that builds roll cages and stuff for local racers. A full width bar is pretty to build for some one like that. Check the boards for NASA and SCCA.

[David Hodgkins]

Where are you located? I have a good source but he insists on custom manufacturing...

:)

[frankeeski]

The biggest concern with the full width roll bars is the center line measurement between the two outer most roll bar stubs. That being said, the early to mid production MKII's only had roll bar mounts for the drivers side bar (as I understand it). For late MKII's and full run MKIII's the measurement is critical. The individual mounts for drivers side and passenger side are pretty consistent when using the standard roll bars but the overall measurement from outside mounts varies quite a bit. Therefore, it is imperative to get the bar custom bent. An off the shelf bar MAY work, but if you are going to shell out close to $400 for an un-coated bar, who wants to take a chance on fit. There are choices out there if you look closely on the forums and use the search. There is even a full width roll bar kit you have welded in yourself locally. Check into it.

[skullandbones]

Just a suggestion: if you have dual roll bars you can create a full bar by installing the roll bars and bolting everything down. Cut both bars at the top of the curve and bevel the raw end. Then you can put a peice of straight tubing in place and tack in well. I would weld as much of it as possible in place and then remove to finish and grind down for finish. You will get a custom fit at a great savings but if you can't weld at all or don't have a friened who is competent then I wouldn't try it. Then only difference between a good welder and all the rest is the amount of grinding and clean up you have to do (generally speaking and excluding TIG). Good luck, WEK.

[frankeeski]

Just a suggestion: if you have dual roll bars you can create a full bar by installing the roll bars and bolting everything down. Cut both bars at the top of the curve and bevel the raw end. Then you can put a peice of straight tubing in place and tack in well. I would weld as much of it as possible in place and then remove to finish and grind down for finish. You will get a custom fit at a great savings but if you can't weld at all or don't have a friened who is competent then I wouldn't try it. Then only difference between a good welder and all the rest is the amount of grinding and clean up you have to do (generally speaking and excluding TIG). Good luck, WEK.

Really???????????????? With what you could sell your existing bars for and buy a full roll bar kit, it's just not worth it. The weld in roll bar kit I know of only cost $275 or so with out coating. Welding butt joints in between two cut and possibly coated bars are going to look as good as a bar bent in one piece? I'm all for building a car anyway you want, but in my opinion there is only one right way to do a full roll bar.

[skullandbones]

Really???????????????? With what you could sell your existing bars for and buy a full roll bar kit, it's just not worth it. The weld in roll bar kit I know of only cost $275 or so with out coating. Welding butt joints in between two cut and possibly coated bars are going to look as good as a bar bent in one piece? I'm all for building a car anyway you want, but in my opinion there is only one right way to do a full roll bar.

Yeah, Frank,

You're probably right. He didn't ask for fabrication ideas anyway. I wasn't taking into account for the cost of the existing bars. I guess a fab kit and finding a competent welder would be the best route. Thanks, WEK.