Power windows?

[MuddyRoverRob]

I'm curious, has anyone added power windows to a street biased build?

I completely understand the lightweight sliding windows in a racer but I'm thinking more along the lines of a comfortable long distance grand tourer. There simply isn't a race track in my area so building a track car doesn't make sense to me.

No car yet but I'm in the planning stages and have ordered the assembly manual.

[riptide motorsport]

Yes it's been done, one guy did it cheap with I believe Taurus parts, I could be wrong on that point though. Search it on the other forum. Only other option is $2000.00 and Gordon levy kit.

[Thanatopsis]

Yes it's been done, one guy did it cheap with I believe Taurus parts, I could be wrong on that point though. Search it on the other forum.

The guy goes by Dave322. He used a flat window kit he picked up on ebay. He posted a reasonably detailed description on the other fourm.

Dave

[tirod]

We're probably looking at this backward - instead of modifying a fiberglass door box to accept all the works it wasn't made for, use a door assembly that is. I'm thinking donor door, modify the hinges and lock, hang it, and add the kit skin.

Advantages: It's built to take the load, has a crash beam already in it, reinforcements in most the right places, and is already engineered - for a salvage yard price.

Disadvantages: Which door? It still has to seal up, and then mounting the outside skin on it isn't easy, either. It's a very short door in height, and the window is a factor if it's simply too big.

One work around is to use Percy's Speedglass, which they don't recommend - and warn about keeping the seals clean to prevent scratching their special hardened Lexan. Don't forget, some already use a Lexan windshield on Roadsters with wipers anyway.

I think modifying an existing door box to fit is likely less time and money than converting one. At least all the parts are there, engineered to work in that relationship. It's the same philosophy as the kit when you think about it.

Soooo, what size is the opening? Somebody got a drawing of hinge and lock locations? It's a matter of picking the best one, I imagine we don't really care if they come off a Civic or a '66 Mustang.

Here's a worst case scenario - custom suicide doors for a hand made '32: http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1205sr_1932_ford_three_window_coupe/index.html

[MuddyRoverRob]

Glad to hear that this isn't totally new ground!

Funny enough I had been looking at a power window kit for a 32 ford in street rodder magazine and had been wondering if that was a way to go! I'd build a window template and have tempered windows built for me. Plexiglas scratches would drive me crazy!

[Hankl]

The problem is, the usable area inside the Coupe door breaks down to 12" in height, and 28" in length. So using any type of OEM frame is not
going to able to come from a donor, unless the car was a Midget or Austin Healey Sprite.

Hank :cool:

[Timb]

The problem is, the usable area inside the Coupe door breaks down to 12" in height, and 28" in length. So using any type of OEM frame is not
going to able to come from a donor, unless the car was a Midget or Austin Healey Sprite.

Hank :cool:

I haven't gotten to the doors yet but I wonder if a universal flat glass kit would work. This one can be cut fit http://www.a1electric.com/el1000.htm

[Thanatopsis]

I haven't gotten to the doors yet but I wonder if a universal flat glass kit would work. This one can be cut fit http://www.a1electric.com/el1000.htm

That's one I was lookin at. it has the least required space under the window that I have found so far.

Minimum Mounting Dimensions: Measure the distance between the glass and the door. A minimum of 1 inch is needed to mount the new regulator. A minimum of 5 inches below the glass (when it is in lowest position) is also necessary for the window to have full travel. A minimum of 1 7/8 inches of door thickness is also necessary to mount the motor in bottom of door.

Dave

[Hankl]

A minimum of 5 inches below the glass (when it is in lowest position) is also necessary for the window to have full travel.

Here is where the problem starts, the "Window" opening required for full retraction is 11", the door would have to be at least 16" tall for this to work. I've often thought of using the
same method they used in the older Porsche 911's, a leather strap attached to the bottom of the window, and you pull the strap up to raise the window. The strap runs through a slot,
you pull the window up, and the strap snaps to the door to keep the window up.

Hank :cool:

[smithtlw]

I haven't gotten to the doors yet but I wonder if a universal flat glass kit would work. This one can be cut fit http://www.a1electric.com/el1000.htm

That looks similar to what Dave322 used:
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-type-65-coupe/268505-coupe-power-windows.html
http://s520.photobucket.com/albums/w330/DAVE322/?action=view&current=Coupewindow.mp4

Todd

[Thanatopsis]

I haven't gotten to the doors yet but I wonder if a universal flat glass kit would work. This one can be cut fit http://www.a1electric.com/el1000.htm

That's the same one i was looking at. Out of all the flat glass systems I've looked at so far, this one requires the least space. From their web page:
Minimum Mounting Dimensions: Measure the distance between the glass and the door. A minimum of 1 inch is needed to mount the new regulator. A minimum of 5 inches below the glass (when it is in lowest position) is also necessary for the window to have full travel. A minimum of 1 7/8 inches of door thickness is also necessary to mount the motor in bottom of door.