Quick Questions

[JeepFlyer]

What is the length of the two 4" tube frame members on the car?
What is the track width (front and back) between the insides of the tires?

I'm building a rolling dolly and I would like to make it long and wide for stability since I'll be working on it alone much of the time.

Thanks

[Mikey_P]

The 4" tubes are 24" on center. You really don't want the cart to be the length of the frame as it will get in the way. I made mine about the length of the cockpit, pobably about 3' long. I can get get a more accurate measurement later if you want. I am building my second car using this cart and it has worked out well. I had to put in my engine temporarily a while back and it held up fine. Hope that helps.

Here is a pic. It may look like crap but has held up to an engine install and me getting in and out to do cockpit fitting.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/pelletm/cart.jpg

[AZPete]

Like Mikey said, the 4" tubes are 24" on center which means the insides of the tubes are 20" apart. I don't know the tube length but this chassis dolly was very secure and easy to work around. I climbed all over it and it also leaves the 4" tubes exposed so you can install gas & brake lines. Since I didn't want to buy wheels and tires (they age!) until I needed them I had the engine in and running, plus brakes, wiring and virtually everything finished before I mounted the wheels and went go-karting. These wheels are from Harbor Freight but I probably had more than necessary.
Pete

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Chassisdolly.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/kitasreceived044.jpg

[skullandbones]

Pretty cool, Peter!! I'd go that way if I ever do it again, WEK.

[JeepFlyer]

AZPete,
That is the route I was probably going to take. I had seen that pic of your dolly (with the measurements) before and really liked it. Did you have any problems getting the engine and trans in with that main beam down the middle?

Another idea I had was to run 2x4's along the 4" tubes with a couple brackets at each end to hold them in place. This would keep the dolly out of the way for engine/trans mounting, and other things that would run close to the bottom of the 4" tubes. My plan is to have nothing on the car below the 4" tubes.

[AZPete]

I had enough room to get the engine w/ tranny in using an engine leveler. The lengthwise 2x6 is about 6 inches below the bottom of the 4" tubes so I had space for the back of the tranny as it was lowered in place. Likewise, it gave enough room to install the drive shaft, parking brake cables and wiring that run in the center. This holds the chassis about 12 inches above the ride height so it's easy to work on. Next time I'll add a beer can holder :).
Pete

[bansheekev]

Here is mine...
Overall length and width is 60" x 44"
Between the frame rails is 20"
Frame height is 16" (with the casters)

Works perfect, I work pretty much alone on mine at night and it is very stable and easy to move the car around.

10558
10559

[gsdcowboy]

Rather than go the dolly route, I went to harbor freight and bought 4 wheel dollys and 4 jack stands. I modified the bases of the jack stands and bolted them to the dollys. I used straps to attach the jack stand tops to the frame. I can roll the frame around easily and it is easy to adjust the height with the jack stands. Hope this helps. gsdcowboy

[hrosenthal]

gsdcoboy - do you have any photos. I just happened to go to Harbor Freight earlier this evening (before reading this post) and bought the same items. My plan was to store the frame on the wheel dollys, and transfer it to the jack stands when working. Eventually, I'd use the wheel dollys for the rolling frame. I like the idea of strapping the jack stands to the dollys. I just hope it fits under the body buck that I built. I bought 6 ton jacks for extra height, I think they may be too large to strap to the wheel dollys.