Alternator Recommendation

[SCFFR]

Working on the front of my 351W engine and have a few questions.

Using the FFR/Ron Francis wiring harness so it would be great to use an alternator that would fit the plug on the harness however a one-wire setup would be fine also. Going for an original looking engine so want a “plain” alternator, i.e, nothing chrome or powdercoated. Any recommendations?

Also need a source for a set of plain, steel pulleys. March Performance has a nice set of billet aluminum ones but prefer that original black painted look. I checked some of the early Mustang vendors and they have some steel pulleys for the early models but I think they used a 3 bolt crank pulley and the cost is much higher than the aluminum ones.

My goal is a basic V-belt setup with three pulleys (crank, alternator and water pump). I like keeping things simple.

Many thanks,

Ron

[Rkloehn]

Powermaster makes nice stuff and its not bright and shinny. Mine is a flat black look. Give them a call and see if they can get you a v belt pulley. Paint your pulley to what ever you want it will hold up

[Gumball]

Check at local parts stores - I found a remanufactured original Ford (the rounded "tear drop" case) at Farm & Fleet for just $34.95 - bought two of them just to have a spare for longer roadtrips. I added a marking using a rubber stamp I had a local shop make for $10 and it looks just like the fancy reproduction alternators that some places used to sell for $250. I say used to sell because NPD and Year One both told me that they no longer carry the original case alternators because the manufacturer destroyed the molds and doesn't plan on making more.

Here mine:

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4364.jpg

[SCFFR]

Thanks guys.

Gumball - what kind of connection does your alternator have?

[emac]

I am using a one wire powermaster alternator. If you are using the RF wiring you trim out one or two of the wires in the alternator feed. If you peel back the harness you will see several hot wires come from the same source. As I recall the powermaster has a black plug that can be removed and you use the #1 terminal for the altenator light dash indicator. I didnt have to use a diode, the light is resistance enough. Probably way more than you were asking....but if you go with the Powermaster it might help get you rolling.

ernest

[Gumball]

Thanks guys.

Gumball - what kind of connection does your alternator have?

It's the traditional Ford connection - 1G - and I'm using a reproduction wiring harness from a '65 Mustang that will be patched into the Ron Francis harness I got from FFR.

[SCFFR]

Thanks guys. Ordered a plain, one-wire v-belt alternator from Summit. Should work fine and be easy to wire.

[tirod]

I agree entirely about the way you want it to look. I came to the same conclusion the other night looking at a pic of a serpentine layout with just a pump and alt. Two idlers and some extra brackets really cluttered up the look. I remember seeing engines in the day for the track that used dual V belts all the way, for reliablity. Simple and easy.

As for the one-wire, not so much. First issue is that it requires rpm to self excite - over 1700 to kick in. Warming up on a frosty morning will be entirely on the battery, and a day of street cruising will pull a lot of charge out of it. Using an Optima type battery will only cover up the situation and make it seem to work. The simple fact is a one wire was designed for tractors pulling a load at a set rpm all day, not a street car that can be done right.

The basic wiring on the typical 60's alternator doesn't use a plug, it was terminals, with an external regulator. I'm considering that, too - because then I'm not forced to change out the alternator when only the regulator is bad. Another issue is using an electronic regulator at all - they are subject to electrical violence when jump starting, but the old relay type points regulators can take some abuse. They can also be manually adjusted to engage at the volt setting you want - which can compensate for voltage drop that might exist in a donor harness or as the car ages. Furthermore, the field will be regulated by load at the main junction of the harness - turn on the lights, it kicks on, rather than a one wire having to be revved up to kick it in.

No, I'm not fan of one wire alternators, if someone wants to go that route, it's their choice. It should be with an idea of what the one wire doesn't do, or do well, rather than being stuck for the tab with a blind date that didn't turn out. If one wire alternators were actually the hassle free and best answer, then they'd be on everybody's car - they aren't. There are reasons for that.

[SCFFR]

Thanks Tirod..........................certainly good point to consider!

[Gumball]

Another pic of my engine bay - note the OEM Ford (old fashioned mechanical relay type) on the driver's side F panel. To make all this work, I bought a reproduction engine wire harness from one of the Mustang restoration places and will splice that into the Ron Francis harness that I'm using on my car. I figure that if it worked in 1.5 million 65-66 Mustangs, it ought to be good enough for my FFR.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4346.jpg