Can't get rid of wheel hop, HELP

[Crashburndie]

Hey Everyone,

I have had real bad wheel hop since I replaced the old 331 (325hp) with the new 363 (500hp) crate engine mated to a TKO600. In 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear the windshield would shake VIOLENTLY. I'm surprised it didn't break. I have a 4-link rear, so i replaced the upper control arms to Steeda Double adjustable arms. Since then the wheel hop is 1st gear is pretty much gone but its still there in 2nd gear. I have tried to adjust the pinion angle from -1 to -4 and everything in-between. My next guess is to replace the lower control arms. My windshield angle is about 43 degrees and the mounting bolts for it are TIGHT. Can anyone suggest what I should check or replace next?


Thanks,
CBD

[David Hodgkins]

Two things come to mind. I'd check your flywheel/clutch assembly and I'd ditch the 4 link for a 3 link.

The 4 link is known to have a rougher ride and binding issues as well as wheel hop. So that would be the 1st thing I'd upgrade.

I've also read that if the flywheel/clutch assemby isn't torqued correctly that you could have a "shimmy" because of it.

I'm sure others will chime in. Of course those with specific experience re;ated to the 4 link should be taken more seriously...

HTH,

:)

[mrmustang]

X2, the best thing you can do to get rid of the wheel hop is to upgrade to FFR's 3 link rear suspension.

If you are unwilling to do so, then you need to check and double check your pinion angles. if they are off more than a degree or two, then they will cause some of that wheel hop. The other cause has to do with unequal (IE" not square to the chassis) placement of the rear end assembly itself due to the mis-alignment of your control arms.

Get the 3 link, you will not be sorry.


Bill S.



Two things come to mind. I'd check your flywheel/clutch assembly and I'd ditch the 4 link for a 3 link.

The 4 link is known to have a rougher ride and binding issues as well as wheel hop. So that would be the 1st thing I'd upgrade.

I've also read that if the flywheel/clutch assemby isn't torqued correctly that you could have a "shimmy" because of it.

I'm sure others will chime in. Of course those with specific experience re;ated to the 4 link should be taken more seriously...

HTH,

:)

[Mike N]

The wheel hop is caused by something in the suspension compressing or deforming and then as the tires start to slip (spin) it unloads allowing the tires to grip and load up the suspension again. The worst area in the stock suspension is the front lower control arm bushing, the oval one with the holes in it. Urethane bushings will help the wheel hop but won't help handling as they do tend to bind up the suspension movement as noted above. A good set of shocks will also help a lot. Do you have the quad shocks installed? The quad shocks were installed on the Mustang purely to help stop wheel hop. I ran my FFR for many years with the FFR control arms with urethane bushings and quad shocks and would only very occasionally experience wheel hop. The set up was OK on the street and strip but once I started Auto X-ing the car the bind caused by the urethane bushings was a real issue and I swapped out the 4 link for my own design 3 link with watts.

[Crashburndie]

I have the VPM Coilovers on the rear and I left the horizontal shock installed.

[riptide motorsport]

rechaeck the pinion angle, its more than likely in that angle, get it right and it should go away....Steven

[mikiec]

On 2290 I kept the 4 link and removed the upper control arms and added a set of Autoweld adjustable arms, a common fix back then. Once pinion angle was set... No more wheel hop.

Mike

[crash]

Put harder tires on it. Problem solved! LOL!

You should be able to tune it out of the four link. I have used the 4 link setup for decades on race vehicles and not had much of an issue with wheel hop. As another poster said, the issue is with give somewhere in the system. Eliminate that, and get the pinion angle right and all should be well.